Threshold screwup - Ideas, please?

[BMWBOB]

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=401609

I posted this in my shop build thread, but have yet to get any ideas - the builder screwed up the threshold for my sliding front doors. This left a gap of about 1.5" between the doors and the garage floor lip, as well as significant gaps in the corners between the sides of the opening and the bottom of the doors to the outside.

Any ideas?

 

[kd3pc]

not that bad for surface mount sliders.

There is not much you can do to close the gap, if the outside finish (walls) are not at the same dimension...ie does the inside trim stick out, or is the edge of that trim - flush with the outside finished walls.

Gasketing under the door or sweeps may make it better, if you can find the correct extrusion and then mount it to the bottom of the door segments. Or you can cut a notch between the garage pour and the driveway pour, drop the doors down in to that. But that process has it's own issues, keeping the notch clean for example.

What does the builder say...I would push him to provide several possible solutions.

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like it was poured for a traditional sectional door.
what about a lenght of commercial aluminum handicap threshold on the floor and some creative flashings on the walls

 

[matt_i]

I think some heavy (1/8" thick) aluminum weldments would capture the corner of the door there. Add flanges to bolt to concrete, tapcons, epoxy, etc.

In the meantime if you stuff some scotchbrite pads there it will keep out animals. They don't like to chew that stuff

 

[wrenchguy]

u get frost in the ground there?

 

[BMWBOB]

u get frost in the ground there?

Yup!

I think some heavy (1/8" thick) aluminum weldments would capture the corner of the door there. Add flanges to bolt to concrete, tapcons, epoxy, etc.

In the meantime if you stuff some scotchbrite pads there it will keep out animals. They don't like to chew that stuff

I've killed a couple mice already with poison, but the scotch pads are a brilliant idea!

looks like it was poured for a traditional sectional door.
what about a lenght of commercial aluminum handicap threshold on the floor and some creative flashings on the walls

The builder forgot I wanted sliders and poured for a regular roll-up door. Now I'm wishing I had gone that route even though I'd have given up some headroom.

not that bad for surface mount sliders.

There is not much you can do to close the gap, if the outside finish (walls) are not at the same dimension...ie does the inside trim stick out, or is the edge of that trim - flush with the outside finished walls.

Gasketing under the door or sweeps may make it better, if you can find the correct extrusion and then mount it to the bottom of the door segments. Or you can cut a notch between the garage pour and the driveway pour, drop the doors down in to that. But that process has it's own issues, keeping the notch clean for example.

What does the builder say...I would push him to provide several possible solutions.

There isn't a trough, just a drop about 2" to the outside pad, and about a 1.5" gap between the doors and the lip of the garage floor.
The builder seems to have given up on ideas for this. The fact of the matter is that I'm worried that if I force him to do it I'll wind up with a bigger mess than I've got now.

I did use the same gasketing used for roll-up garage doors, but attached it to the door instead of the wall which worked nicely. I also used "whiskers" on the bottoms of the doors installed on the exterior of the doors. These helped a lot.

The fact is, the gap inside between the door and the slab looks like ****, leaks a LOT of air, and is not even close to what I want.

 

[LXCam]

Why can't you pour in the corners with a little concrete or saw cut out maybe a 6" wide portion of the apron and pour it back? At least the bottom of the doors would have something to seal against.

 

[BMWBOB]

That's a pretty good idea. I'd have to do it in 2 or 3 stages because the doors are now really hard to get off....

 

[wrenchguy]

Why can't you pour in the corners with a little concrete or saw cut out maybe a 6" wide portion of the apron and pour it back? At least the bottom of the doors would have something to seal against.

This would work if he has foundation under and to the outside plane of the doors, if not frost will just heave the fix into the door bottom.

 

[BMWBOB]

This would work if he has foundation under and to the outside plane of the doors, if not frost will just heave the fix into the door bottom.

There is a footing on each side of the door. This is not a typical pole barn: laminated 2x6's were used, a bracket inserted into the pour, with 3'round x 3' deep footings under each "pole". The problem I see with this is that the pour to fix the problem will be essentially on top of ground and on top of the existing footing....

The small slab is the apron in front, the doors centered on that slab

 

[83VillageRepair]

You could form it up and use epoxy. The same stuff is used to install anchor bolts. Hilti is the brand I have used in the past. It is not cheap but do a practice run first.

Wade

Edit. Didn’t realize how old the thread I was replying to. You probably found a solution already. Nice shop!