TIG newbie

[PoorOwner]

I am looking into buying a TIG welder,
beside argon gas can you please tell me what I need? Have hood and gloves already.

I keep reading people talk about tungstens, rods, starter kits, stubby lenses on amazon. But I don't really have idea what these extra would cost for me to start welding.

The bottle will set back about $200 so I wanted to be sure I don't need to spend another few hundred to be ready to weld.

I will be doing mild steel for now, thanks.

If you have some links to Amazon that would be great too.

 

[Delo1605]

Your list is accurate, but not knowing what machine you have or what kind of torch you will be using, I can’t recommend what to buy. But the bare minimum would be tungsten and rod. What size material you will be welding will say what size tungsten and rod to buy. I have 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 tungsten, and from .040 to 3/32 rod on hand for mild steel, then you have stainless, aluminum, all depending what you plan on. Welding tips and tricks.com is an excellent site with great videos. To answer you original question, figure between $100 & $200 to start with for your consumables.

 

[PoorOwner]

It is going to be a AHP or similar type of welder.

Mostly will be working with 1/8" steel plates, what tungsten size and rod size do you recommend?

 

[Riggerson]

3/32nd or 1/16th lanthanated tungsten depending on thickness of material. ER70S2 1/16th is fine to get started. I prefer .045'' or thinner most of the time but 1/16th is easier to work with when starting out.

edit: Didn't see the 1/8th plate comment. 3/32nd tungsten and 1/16th or 3/32nd wire will be fine.

 

[tarbellb]

I just purchased my entire TIG setup after years of hesitation and research. What I found to be a good starter kit so far:

AHP (AC/DC) if you plan on doing more than steel

also consider HF ProTig 165 (DC only) is so tiny its great for portability/storage

Bought all my rod + tungsten off Amazon but www.usaweld.com has everything at good prices too and lots of info.

Stick with one size for now, based off what you plan to weld, 3/32" is a happy medium. That goes for both tungsten and wire.

Cup kits are all over Amazon, this kit was nice enough for starting out- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798GVSX7/?tag=atomicindus08-20 [/URL]

If you go with the AHP, the new torch is actually very nice, but the foot pedal is definitely a odd setup and most prefer the HTP (usaweld again) or the HF knockoff. And it comes with a cup kit, which is fine for learning on until you find what you like.

So really, if you go AHP all you need is some tungsten and rod. 2lbs of ER70 = $25 + 10pk of 3/32" 2% Lanthanated = $25, total $50.

 

[Riggerson]

Also you can use the kit that comes with your welder. No reason to upgrade all the components right out of the gate if you're on a budget. A standard 17 torch and collet body that usually comes with TIG welders will get you started.

 

[matt_i]

Bench grinder is one to add but you might already have one. A clean wheel is a good idea.

 

[joe_padavano]

Get a dedicated tungsten grinder. You'll be doing this a lot initially and the grinders based on Dremmel tools makes life much easier. I highly recommend the AHP as a starter machine.

 

[xman_charl]

my junk...
got argon and co2 tanks from place that refills them, used
AHP
Primeweld
everlast
MTS 211Si
multi process

bought ahp, about 3 years ago

everlast 2 years back

black primeweld, 3 months ago

just a hobby welder

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Charl

 

[PoorOwner]

my junk...
got argon and co2 tanks from place that refills them, used
AHP
Primeweld
everlast
MTS 211Si
multi process

bought ahp, about 3 years ago

everlast 2 years back

black primeweld, 3 months ago

just a hobby welder

[/url][/IMG]









Charl

Hi Charl, how do you find the AHP vs the Primeweld? both are on top of my list.

 

[fordkid88]

Bench grinder is one to add but you might already have one. A clean wheel is a good idea.

Yup. Mines got a little groove worn in. Got replace it in the near future before it gernades.

 

[dr_clyde]

Yup. Mines got a little groove worn in. Got replace it in the near future before it gernades.

Its not gonna grenade from a groove worn into it. You can just dress the wheel and get the groove out.

 

[dr_clyde]

To the OP,

Most brand new welders come with a few things you need to get started. I would recommend you take a look at whats included in your kit. It will probably come with tungsten, cups, collets and a back cap or two.

Here is what I would recommend for TIG supplies and consumables to keep on hand.

Tungsten. Get 3/32" ceriated or lanthanated. This will work for a very large range of materials and both polarities. I would get a box of 10, but you may be able to buy them individually if you want. I would keep at least 2 or 3 on hand.

Collet bodies/collets. These are sized to your torch. Have at least 2 collet bodies, and a pack of collets. These are cheap.

Cups. I would keep at least a box of #6 size on hand. Plain pink alumina cups are fine, you don't need any fancy clear Furick cups or anything like that. This will cover most every common welding application. If you find yourself doing something super specialized you can swap it out for bigger or smaller, but I run a #6 cup 99% of the time. These are the most likely to break, so I would want at least a half dozen in the toolbox.

Back caps. Get a set of 3. Short, medium and long, and then get spares of the sizes you find yourself using most. These are also easy to break, so I would want at least a few on hand.

For filler rod, I would recommend starting out with 1/16" diameter, get some of whatever you plan on welding. You can go thinner or thicker, but 1/16" is a good middle ground and will weld a large variety. To start, some ER 70S-2 is fine for common steel, 4043 is for common aluminum alloys, 3003 and 6061, and 308 SS will weld common 304 stainless. Just get a pound of each to start, then when you use that up, you can justify a 10# box.

You'll also want to have pure argon, buy the biggest cylinder you can afford. The gas is cheaper the bigger you go on cylinder.

A good ball type flowmeter is very nice to have, but you can get by with a plain dial flow regulator for a long time.

 

[rsanter]

A good stoll of the right height and a table of the right height

 

[PoorOwner]

I was reading the cheap TIG welders have crappy pedals which is like a universal complaint for them, like no modulation, it slips, you have to place it backwards etc.

I saw an upgrade that is $159, do you recommend I go with that right away?

 

[kkroger]

I'd go with an upgraded pedal early on... no use adding insult to injury. but don't fear someone will be along shortly to tell you that the included pedal is just fine...

 

[PoorOwner]

Just ordered the PrimeWeld TIG, it comes with a CK17 torch, that's all I know, clueless what's a cup and lens for now.

My wife told me I have to fix the stainless steaming wire rack that snapped. I said I can't MIG it, it would weld but it would rust.
rack is a 1/8 thick wire.

So 100% argon, same 3/32" electrode and a pound of 1/16" 309? I didn't find 308.

 

[dr_clyde]

Just ordered the PrimeWeld TIG, it comes with a CK17 torch, that's all I know, clueless what's a cup and lens for now.

My wife told me I have to fix the stainless steaming wire rack that snapped. I said I can't MIG it, it would weld but it would rust.
rack is a 1/8 thick wire.

So 100% argon, same 3/32" electrode and a pound of 1/16" 309? I didn't find 308.

That torch should come with a collet body, collet and cup which will work fine. You don't need to be worried about a gas lens right now.

309 will be fine for the repair. 309 is designed for welding steel to stainless, but will work fine for stainless to stainless. It costs a bit more than 308, but for the small amount you're using it won't matter.

 

[PoorOwner]

I have a 6" bench grinder, wheels are like new but, I did something probably not the best for cleanliness, I had MDF baseboards where the nails is clipped on the back and I used the grinder to flatten some of the nails, only did a few before I switched to hand held grinder which worked much better.
So not sure if any of the MDF glue or whatever got on the wheel.

Can I get a dressing stick and clean the wheel slightly then continue to use it for electrode sharpening?

 

[dr_clyde]

I have a 6" bench grinder, wheels are like new but, I did something probably not the best for cleanliness, I had MDF baseboards where the nails is clipped on the back and I used the grinder to flatten some of the nails, only did a few before I switched to hand held grinder which worked much better.
So not sure if any of the MDF glue or whatever got on the wheel.

Can I get a dressing stick and clean the wheel slightly then continue to use it for electrode sharpening?

You can, but you really don't need to. Any particulate matter that may have transferred to your tungsten will burn off almost immediately when you light up.

You're not doing inspected code work, nor is it nearly the big deal most home shop guys make it out to be.

You can sharpen your tungsten on just about anything you've got that's abrasive and it will work fine.

 

[PoorOwner]

^^^ thanks alot.

Regarding argon bottle not sure which way I should go.

125 cu ft:

Local shop "tested bottle" $230 + $60 fill + tax = $315, not sure how how many years before "test" expires. I guess I just have to exchange it before it expires.

Amazon seller, brand new bottle filled shipped, suppose to have 10 year before test = $333

Which should I go with? They don't test it there and I have to bring it to a place that seems to be for testing fire extinguishers.

 

[dr_clyde]

Most places just exchange cylinders. You won't get "your" cylinder back unless you specifically request it, and then you have to wait for the fill, and are on the hook for a hydro test every few years.

Get the cylinder that you can just get exchanged. That way you'll always have a current cylinder.

I probably have 20 or so cylinders in my shop. Argon, mix, acetylene, and oxygen. All owned outright. But I have ownership of whatever cylinder happens to be in my possession at the current moment. When I get a delivery of cylinders, I just get swapped for full ones. I may never see the ones I gave back ever again.

 

[matt_i]

^^^ thanks alot.

Regarding argon bottle not sure which way I should go.

125 cu ft:

Local shop "tested bottle" $230 + $60 fill + tax = $315, not sure how how many years before "test" expires. I guess I just have to exchange it before it expires.

Amazon seller, brand new bottle filled shipped, suppose to have 10 year before test = $333

Which should I go with? They don't test it there and I have to bring it to a place that seems to be for testing fire extinguishers.

I would just get used. Its a very sad day when your first perfect new gas cylinder goes to exchange the first time its emptied and you get a crusty old thing that looks like they just raised it out of a WW2 shipwreck.

Depending on use you'll probably empty it within 2 years in light useage.

 

[xman_charl]

how do you find the AHP vs the Primeweld?

AHP has HF start for steel, not for Primeweld

primeweld is about 10 pds heavier, more noise

primeweld has more features than ahp

primeweld has the famous ck tourch

both are good machines


Charl

 

[PoorOwner]

So far accessories purchased:

SSC Controls C910-0725 Pedal
125 cu ft argon bottle from LWS
Diamond Ground 2% Lanthanated Tungsten Electrode LA2- 3/32"
Harris ER70S-2 Mild Steel TIG Welding Wire pounds 1/16"
Tillman Kid Skin glove

 

[brownbagg]

Get a dedicated tungsten grinder. You'll be doing this a lot initially and the grinders based on Dremmel tools makes life much easier. I highly recommend the AHP as a starter machine.

you dont have to have a dedicated grinder unless you are doing x ray work

 

[brownbagg]

get a dc cracker box, hook a tig torch to it, gas regulator and bottle, and you got a scratch start tig rig

 

[PoorOwner]

I got both steel and 308 filler rods.

ground the piece, step on the pedal and it will start an arc and I can start seeing stuff melt?

Should I set the pedal so when I floor it gives me alot of reserve amps, or just the amps that is for the thickness, like 35 amps and just keep it floored most of the time? Videos don't really talk about pedal positions, do you go heavy or light on the pedal at the beginning of the weld, and at the end?

Should I practice filling the material first (dabbing into the puddle) or advancing the rod and filling? I am pretty bad with coordination (won't be a drummer, etc). I think that's going to be difficult for sure, when I try to "scoot" the rod forward it flops all over.

 

[matt_i]

I set the full pedal at 250A, which is basically max for my machine. Go heavier at the start, you need to get some heat started into the work. Usually when you are heading towards an edge where you will finish, the material is getting overheated because there's nowhere else for heat to flow and so then its good to back off some.

I also like to practice keeping the torch still once I let off the pedal to allow the argon to cool the material and the tungsten, instead of ripping it away to look for stacked dimes. I feel like it helps everything to cool in the inert gas bubble.

Just put the filler rod down for now. Get a piece and start moving a puddle with a little metronome in your head. Try different pedal "settings" to see how it responds.

When you can do that well and can see it, then get the filler rod and give that a whirl.

A little double-hook for cradling the torch is a nice thing to make up, if you set the torch in your lap for lack of better place to put it, it burns little holes in your jeans and thru to your leg which are much more painful than their size would suggest......

 

[Oregonredford]

I just started tigging myself. Get a 120 or bigger bottle of argon. Argon doesn’t compress like co2 so you only get a third as much per bottle and you will go through it quickly.
Get a gas lens and cups for them. I don’t have an ac/dc machine so I can’t do aluminum. I went with the ceriated tungsten as it works for everything. Start your training with 12ga or something and work on lap joint fusing. Once you master that then start adding filler.
Lots of practice.
I have a friend who is a master at tig. He instructed me to start with Stainless or cold roll as they are super easy to fuse.
It took quite a few hours to let a nice fillet when adding filler.
Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[PoorOwner]

I saw a video someone used a bench sander to sharpen tungsten? Is that a good idea? Just going to wear the sandpaper really fast?

 

[Retlaw 66]

I use the Harbor Freight mini bench grinder and one of their diamond blades. I only use it to sharpen tungstens so it stays clean. Works well for me.

 

[PoorOwner]

I am going to start with a bench grinder for the initial grind, and see if I can just use a smaller device to take away any mishaps.

I read you are not supposed to spin the tungsten to get it sharp, but try to grind it parallel to the length of the rod? is this true?

 

[dr_clyde]

You can sharpen your tungsten literally on anything abrasive. I used a belt grinder hundreds of times.

I've also used an angle grinder with numerous different wheels of various use, assorted bench grinders, dedicated tungsten sharpeners, diamond wheels, CBN wheels, and an old powder called Chemsharp. They all work. I have never noticed a difference in the point. All I care about is that its sharp and has whatever base metal that I've boogered on to it taken off.

Yes. You should grind parallel with the length of the electrode. Parallel with your grinding wheel's rotation. Your grind marks should run down the taper to the point. This will help help consistent arc starts and keep the arc from wandering at low amps.

As far as pedal position, that will depend on what you're trying to weld. A good rule of thumb for starting out is to set the machine to 1 amp per .001 inch of thickness, for steel. So for 1/8" steel, having the machine set to 125 amps will get you in the ballpark.

When welding you will want to get a puddle going within a second or two. If it takes longer than that, you need more amps.

I keep about a 20% reserve in my pedal for situations where I may need a bump in amps. So, if I need 70 amps to weld a part, I set the machine to 100 amps and use about 70% of my pedal. You want a few more amps to tack and start the puddle, then back off to welding current.

Heat input is the hardest part of TIG to learn. Heat input is a function of welding amperage, arc length and travel speed. You can get LESS heat with MORE amps by traveling faster and keeping a tight arc. Most guys starting out cook the **** out their metal by going too slow at too low of amps, with a long arc.

 

[PoorOwner]

couple of questions.

I did the stainless wire rack repair, it turns out I didn't need filler, just fused the wires together. But my question is the appearance is dark gray, looked like it had no shielding gas. I also had a stainless nut and I started some puddle on it, also dark and porous looking. Is it because it is too hot and the weld can appear burnt looking? Maybe not enough preflow shielding due to blowing over a piece of wire.

second question the last 3 finger of my torch hand got really hot and I had to stop the bead. I am not particularly holding close to the torch end. Thinking it is maybe because I am moving too slow / too much heat?

 

[theoldwizard1]

TIG Finger

 

[PoorOwner]

Here are my practice beads on 1/8" x 1"

I can weld about average 15 minutes without ruining the electrode now.

When I try to weld the edge of the piece, which I didn't here, I had alot of sparks flying out. I only grinded the top of the plate, is it all the mill scale on the other sides flying off?

 

[matt_i]

It looks to me like you are trying to move the torch in a continuous motion.

Imo you should be stopping on a spot to melt and then fill, and then move over a little to stop again and melt and fill. It should be done with a little slow metronome in your head, a steady rhythm to keep the weld moving.

The end result is the "stack of dimes" look that we've all seen.

 

[PoorOwner]

like the welder so far. Great packaging survived across the coast shipping.
Only thing I upgraded is the pedal.

Got a lot of knobs and I was worried because I have no one to teach me. But for mildsteel I don’t need to mess with the pulse or AC

Not as heavy to lift as I thought it would be.

 

[PoorOwner]

It looks to me like you are trying to move the torch in a continuous motion.

Imo you should be stopping on a spot to melt and then fill, and then move over a little to stop again and melt and fill. It should be done with a little slow metronome in your head, a steady rhythm to keep the weld moving.

Yes I do not stop the torch. Don’t know who is right or wrong on YouTube or maybe I missed the pause. They weld like a autonomous robot.

Is the dull gray color normal before brushing?