Tile Clad

[mayday0017]

I am getting a new house in a week and first thing I am wanting to do before moving or doing other work is get stuff done on the garage. I am planning on using Sherwin Williams Tile Clad floor paint. I have an account with a pretty good discount on it making me able to get 2 gallons (1a & 1b) for right at $100. The question is do i want to buy the Ameraseal 1k to clear over or do i want to just use the gloss paint and call it a day? (clear would be another $130 for enough to cover) Anyone have any feedback or suggestions on this? Also for applying the paint what rollers & brushes are recommended?

 

[Irondrive]

I would recommend the Armorseal. I have good results with the Armorseal High Solid Polyurethane. Have not used the 1K. Tile clad is pretty hard to clean after a few years without the clear. Good investment of $130.

I use the SW soft woven roller covers 1/2" for the epoxy. If you are doing just a solid color I would use the 3/8" for the poly. Be sure to get the white ones, not the orange.

 

[munkey]

I have an account with a pretty good discount on it making me able to get 2 gallons (1a & 1b) for right at $100. The question is do i want to buy the Ameraseal 1k to clear over or do i want to just use the gloss paint and call it a day? (clear would be another $130 for enough to cover) Anyone have any feedback or suggestions on this? Also for applying the paint what rollers & brushes are recommended?

I did my garage (and another, plus my porch) with Tile Clad with a Rexthane (an Armorseal product you can get at SW) topcoat. The Rexthane is really cool stuff, at least check into it before making a decision. It's a moisture cure urethane, and has to be applied very thinly or it might bubble on you, but it's extremely tough and UV resistent. Your Tile Clad will yellow much less when topcoated with it. Here's my writeup from a few months ago.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73603

First time I walked in the store they quoted me $40 per gallon (so $80 for 1 each of A and B), without any prior purchasing history, so you might want to see if any of the SW's in your area can at least match that.

I used epoxy glide rollers on a high quality roller frame with extension pole. You need to feather your strokes -- straight up "back and forth" rolling can leave lap marks.

 

[mayday0017]

Nice! $40 a gallon is way super cheap, I have a friend who is a rep that setup this account and he says this is the very cheapest they can go because it isn't made by Sherwin Williams they buy it from another company. I need to read into the Rexthane from the sound of it, really not sure what I want to go with...

 

[Hammerdown]

The recommended roller would be a 1/4" or 3/8" nap solvent resistant core. The havier nap you use the thicker it would go down. I've used a 3/8" notched squeegee to apply TileClad previously to get a higher build and fill in a rougher surface as well, but you get a lot less coverage this way. I would definetely use a clear coat over it, as the epoxy is not UV stable and will color fade or "chalk" over time if not top coated. Hope this helps. Good luck with the project!

 

[icefisherman]

I used the sherwin williams macropoxy than top coated it with rexthane. I really like it so far. Its been down since april, and zero problems. You should top coat a solvent based epoxy with a clear or it will yellow. I had a couple spots that i missed with the clear and it is now turning more yellow than the rest. Check out my old posts on macropoxy.

 

[munkey]

this is the very cheapest they can go because it isn't made by Sherwin Williams they buy it from another company.

In other words, that's the cheapest they can go and still make a $40 profit on you. There's no way they were selling it to -me- at cost, unless some bizarre regional differences are in play.

Make sure you thin the first coat (I was told 20% or so by volume) after the sweat-in and that will be your primer coat. This really helps it to sink into the pores of your flooring.

For your cut in, use a brush that you intend to throw away; you will not be able to salvage it. I used some of those $1 chip brushes, just be aware that they will start to shed bristles after not very long. If you're a perfectionist and will be upset to see a few stray bristles in your epoxy, you can use a nicer brush as long as you're prepared to pitch it. (And when you see how gunky it is, you'll be more than happy to do so as opposed to attempting a solvent clean up on it.)

I got the Epoxy-Glide roller covers from thepaintstore.com, I believe. Order an extra one or two in case you need them.

I need to read into the Rexthane from the sound of it, really not sure what I want to go with...

The stuff is bulletproof, at least so far. It's a perfectly viable coating in its own right, but it works really well to protect your epoxy from UV damage. It has a unique and ridiculous smell to it, but it cures quickly and is a one-part product so all you have to do is stir it up and roll it on (thin!). If you like flakes, throw some in your Tile-Clad topcoat when it's still wet, and then the next day scrape them off and seal them in with Rexthane.