Time machine: what would you do different?
- Thread starter dmaxedout
- Start date
monkeyspanners
Well-known member
I'd go back to when I was eleven and start again. I've fucked up worse than a 30x50 haha
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126255
Start searching this forum and you'll come up with a few different threads on this subject. Start with the one above and good luck. 'Review' is another search term
Start searching this forum and you'll come up with a few different threads on this subject. Start with the one above and good luck. 'Review' is another search term
sberry
Banned
If talking buildings change the dimension to 40 wide.
koditten
Well-known member
Don't forget to install a 30 amp plug to power that RV that you didn't know the wife wanted.
rburke65
Well-known member
Just do a 40' X 60' x14' and you won't hate yourself. BUT.......make damn sure that your foot print of your build is " high and dry". There are more folks on here that do not or have not, planed from the bottom up. It all start with site preperation..... Good luck.
synchro7
Well-known member
A whole lot of stuff. Starting at age 8 onward.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/images/smilies/3gears.gif
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/images/smilies/3gears.gifEdv530i
Member
Which side of the building are your overhead doors going on? I agree that you should go 40 deep but it really depends on how you intend to use the space. Mine is 40 deep and 80 wide and my bay doors are along the 80 side. I went with 3 - 10 wide by 12 high doors. I should have gone at least 12-14 ft wide so I could bring vehicles in on more of an angle.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
Garage related: finished walls, then surface-mounted all electrical
House related: saved longer and bought a nicer/newer house
Life related: gone to college after high school
House related: saved longer and bought a nicer/newer house
Life related: gone to college after high school
sberry
Banned
If there is snow and ice it makes advantages of a wider building and going in from the gable end so much better and there wont need to be loaded headers needed. I see so many buildings look like they were designed on a nice summer day over a discussion with a second rate pole barn builder who must agree that all customer ideas are good to make the sale and not offer up any experience/advice which often may be as or more important than every nail straight. I see a lot of "extra" side roll up doors in garages and small buildings that must have seemed like a good idea at the time to someone, never used with grass going in front of them.
sberry
Banned
Get the doors right, in a bit bigger buildings this may mean less doors but a bit bigger. In mine could live thru 1 of 4 and do in the winter. I use the others but getting the entrance and drive in correct makes up for some although in smaller buildings there ay not be enough space for driveways.
30x40 is common but really too narrow for 2 doors let alone 3 and 2 cars wide on one leaves no space along the walls, huge mistake going too small. Seen it, wasted huge amount of storage along walls and always felt crowded working.
12 ft wide doors are so much better, have a bud with 10 in auto shop and you have to be fussy and even creates a foot path bottleneck when they are open.
30x40 is common but really too narrow for 2 doors let alone 3 and 2 cars wide on one leaves no space along the walls, huge mistake going too small. Seen it, wasted huge amount of storage along walls and always felt crowded working.
12 ft wide doors are so much better, have a bud with 10 in auto shop and you have to be fussy and even creates a foot path bottleneck when they are open.
bowhuntr311
Well-known member
I have a 40x40x10 with 3 10ft wide doors. I would do 2-14 foot wide doors. I would also have put a water line to the front of the shop so I could wash trucks in the driveway and not have to string a hose from the house. Also would have laid a conduit from the house basement utility room to my shop, that way I could run a cable across for security cams.
Less slope in the garage floor. Made leveling things (cabinets, tables, lifts, etc.) more of a hassle.
Also, run electrical in the floor and allow for any floating benches/tables to be powered, that aren't near a wall.
Also, run electrical in the floor and allow for any floating benches/tables to be powered, that aren't near a wall.
Rex_A_Lott
Well-known member
Borrowed the money and built it when I was much younger instead of watching the building materials double and then double again while I was saving up.
Rod N
Well-known member
I'm pretty happy with the way my garage has turned out.
As far as life, come to realize when I was young that all woman are nuts and reduce the amount of x wives.
As far as life, come to realize when I was young that all woman are nuts and reduce the amount of x wives.
Automobilist
Well-known member
In the process of planning for our shop. Will be around 50' X 40' or so. Or would 36X56 be better? Use will be; working on our vintage sports cars. Being new to the rainy northwest, what's the strategy regarding doors on gable end v. side? Yes, I'm ignorant on this but want to get it right... 
Thanks!
Ed
Thanks!
Ed
homebuilt burner
Well-known member
Get a very large pad of graph paper to draw out different sizes and door configurations. Then cut out scale models of your car, boat, other toys and lay out how YOU are going to use it. My use is different than yours will be.
My only regret was size, I built what would fit and we could afford. But I'm still happy.
My only regret was size, I built what would fit and we could afford. But I'm still happy.
Edv530i
Member
I cannot agree more. Many of the other things mentioned in this thread are fixable but once built dimensions and doors are not changeable. I originally wanted to enter from the gable end and positioned the building so that I could but my wife's only stipulation when I showed her the design was that I move the building over toward the trees and property line thus not leaving enough room to enter on that side...leaving me with the 3 - 10x12 doors on the 80 ft side...which should have been wider. Repositioning wasn't an option as 40x80 is pretty big for a 2 acre lot (township had 900 sq ft limit so my variance cost like 6k...welcome to New Jersey!)
I have another piece of property (3.5 acres) that I consider building another one on and I would like to build a 60x120 with 2 large gable end doors...but 2 things hold me up...don't know if the township will let me build one that big and I don't know if I want to pull out a mortgage on that property to do it.
widerberg
Well-known member
Mine's a bit of a hodgepodge and I'm having the damndest time cleaning/organizing enough to make headway on finishing the interior. It's about 1/3 painted, and has been that way since Father's Day 2014. Life continues to happen. If I had it to do all over, I would've painted it, sorted out the flooring, and did all of the stuff you do with the "bones" before ever moving my stuff into it. Would've been a lot easier.
Also, I don't know how many cabinets and large tools I've scored over the years because they were a "deal", only to end up tossing them out or Craigslisting them because there just isn't space or a need now. So . . . I should've assessed my needs and planned better from the beginning, rather than let the garage grow organically into something that isn't at all what I'd hoped.
Having said that, I'm chipping away at making it right. But, I could've made life a lot easier for myself. Live and learn.
Also, I don't know how many cabinets and large tools I've scored over the years because they were a "deal", only to end up tossing them out or Craigslisting them because there just isn't space or a need now. So . . . I should've assessed my needs and planned better from the beginning, rather than let the garage grow organically into something that isn't at all what I'd hoped.
Having said that, I'm chipping away at making it right. But, I could've made life a lot easier for myself. Live and learn.
jcthorne
Well-known member
I should have insulated the building when it was first closed in.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
I agree with everything here^^^
I also moved everything in the garage right away and then all the electrical and wall/ceiling finishing took 3 times as long as they should have, since everything in the way needed to be moved multiple times.
I had many similar experiences with "deals" and CL and clearance stuff at the big stores that I ended up not needing and took a loss on them. I think a lot of it had to do with not having a lot of money after moving in, so I tried to score any deal I could, and ended up with too much clutter. Lost a bit of money of some stuff.
Luckily, I've managed to stop doing that. Now I only pick up an item on CL if it's something I've been needing or searching for, or if I can turn a quick profit on it. I stopped going to yard sales too. I look around the garage occasionally, and anything that doesn't get used often or that I don't need anymore, gets sold or tossed. Cleaned up a lot of space in there. Now, if I could only get my dad to do the same thing.
sberry
Banned
I see a lot of garages and pole barns used as junk storage, number 1 easiest way to gain space is rent the dumpster.
Onewolf
Well-known member
Pay more attention to where a couple light switches ended up.
Alchymist
Well-known member
Socked away a lot more money in pension plans all through my working years. Would be on easy street if I had.
1Garageman
Well-known member
Age 15, tell my parents I don't have a cold/flue, I am slipping into a diabetic coma!
ambenz
Well-known member
I did a lot of things right, surprisingly...and am pretty happy with it all.
Things I wanted to do, the village tied my hands, so I live with what I could place.
I suggest you know how big you can build, and build it based on what you can get away with. Go into debt and wish for as many things as you want....if you are young enough, you will afford it in the long run and increase your property value...and taxable property value will increase too, unfortunately. It is amazing how time causes the soil line to increase around buildings. Between sink-age and particulate matter in the air, 50 years in the future, your building can actually be lower than your ground....build it high and dry! Make sure the building can support a future lift.
In hindsight, collecting gutter rainwater for irrigation and storing it underground in a cistern would be very handy since our water rates for Lake Michigan water continue to skyrocket. Insulate with styrofoam and never worry about the insulation breaking down from moisture, rodents, or gravity. Plan for a security system, both passive and active.
Bolster deadbolts, install window bars, cameras, etc....as you see fit.
Good luck!
Things I wanted to do, the village tied my hands, so I live with what I could place.
I suggest you know how big you can build, and build it based on what you can get away with. Go into debt and wish for as many things as you want....if you are young enough, you will afford it in the long run and increase your property value...and taxable property value will increase too, unfortunately. It is amazing how time causes the soil line to increase around buildings. Between sink-age and particulate matter in the air, 50 years in the future, your building can actually be lower than your ground....build it high and dry! Make sure the building can support a future lift.
In hindsight, collecting gutter rainwater for irrigation and storing it underground in a cistern would be very handy since our water rates for Lake Michigan water continue to skyrocket. Insulate with styrofoam and never worry about the insulation breaking down from moisture, rodents, or gravity. Plan for a security system, both passive and active.
Bolster deadbolts, install window bars, cameras, etc....as you see fit.
Good luck!
Steevo
Well-known member
I'd make it bigger. On a different lot. In a different neighborhood.