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To Baldor or not?

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Jeff Ivers

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FWIW, it's not your kids money until you die. Until that point comes, live your life, enjoy and buy what you want. If you want to spend your $$ on a Baldor motor, have at it.
You are absolutely right and I appreciate the encouragement! I find myself, at my age, thinking about whether significant investments in tools are likely to be enjoyed long enough to justify the expense - a lifetime of trying to be frugal is a hard habit to break. The inheritance bit was an attempt to convey that in short hand.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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"Clean up something" is much too vague.

What exactly are you wanting to be able to do?
In almost every instance, whatever you want to do on a bench grinder is done better, faster and safer on a belt grinder.

1771601365814.png


You can get belts that will effectively eliminate the need for wire wheels.

Yes.
In almost every case, actually. There's almost no job you can think of that can't be done better on either a flat abrasive belt, a slack belt, or an angle grinder with assorted discs and wheels.

Safer, too.

That looks like the Baldor 7307 I had at work. I added a belt grinder adapter and it was about the best setup I ever had. Belt changes took less than 20 seconds, and it ran smooth as silk. I would offer a little bit less than $150 as it is missing a few parts and the left side guard is broken so you can't install a factory rest
I appreciate the comments. I would like to stress this is not a grinder. This is the wide shaft buffer motor designed to let you get larger objects on the wheel without interference from the motor - total shaft length is about 22.5". I have a belt/disk sander and use it whenever I can. I use the buffer/wire wheel for cleaning threads on bolts and polishing tools and similar tasks where a sanding belt is totally inappropriate. I don't think I have access to facebook marketplace. I have done a search on Ebay and CL looking for a used Baldor within driving range with no success. I am not interested in a narrow shaft motor.
 

NUTTSGT

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You are absolutely right and I appreciate the encouragement! I find myself, at my age, thinking about whether significant investments in tools are likely to be enjoyed long enough to justify the expense - a lifetime of trying to be frugal is a hard habit to break. The inheritance bit was an attempt to convey that in short hand.
I used to joke with my parents that they were spending my inheritance which was sincerely just that, ribbing my parents. They laughed so much, now, any time they buy something, they joke back that they are spending my inheritance. I've told them several times and they know the wife and I don't need their money. They are supposed to have fun enjoying life and buy what they want.


Being frugal is one thing but being a tight *** and not spending a dime is something entirely different in my book. I wholeheartedly believe to save some for later or a rainy day, but there comes a time when you have to sit back and enjoy what you saved and earned. I figure it this way, we lived paycheck to paycheck at one point in our marriage, I sacrificed for the family, for the home and our way of life that anything I wanted came last. I still work a ton of OT and I'll be damned if I'm not going to treat myself to a little something on payday or make a large purchase every now and then when the deal comes along.

:beer:
 

BurtEggley

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so you are NOT looking for a grinder, you ARE looking for a buffer? Is this ONLY a long shaft buffer or one where there is an extension on the shaft that extends it to buffing length. They come both ways.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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so you are NOT looking for a grinder, you ARE looking for a buffer? Is this ONLY a long shaft buffer or one where there is an extension on the shaft that extends it to buffing length. They come both ways.
Wasn't aware of shaft extensions - somehow that has escaped me. I do think I prefer to stick with the wide shaft buffers.
 

BurtEggley

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Ok. I use my grinder with grinding wheels, wire wheels and buffing wheels. The main reason that someone has a wide shaft is to have room to buff some larger items. The farther out the wheels are, the more the vibration will be, and the more important it will be to keep the wheels in balance. There should be no vibration, or almost nill. The extensions come on many of them because a manufacturer will take a grinder, put on an extension, sell it with cotton wheels and call it a buffer. There is also the question of the speed it will operate at. I believe some buffing is low speed and some is high speed. All that said, since the base is detachable on that unit, Eastwood may sell a replacement base for it or warranty it.
 

exmaxima1

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That looks like the Multitool attachment (https://multitoolgrinders.com/products/multitool-2-x-36-belt-grinder-attachment.html), except yours appears to a bit more robust, with parts from machined aluminum; do you know what brand it is?
It is indeed a Multitool attachment. I salvaged it from another machine and didn't have the bracket for the grinder bell so I made my own. I also increased the belt size to 2x42 (from the usual 2x36) as I already stocked that size belt.
 

mm08822

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A couple things to consider (maybe already mentioned but no time to read 46 posts):

Take either the older one or newer one apart and get the bearing details and replace them.
Maybe adding hose clamps to each end of the motor housing could reduce/minimize current/future casting fractures.

Eastwood is marketing these as buffers. With an 8" cantilevered load (grinding wheel) and you pressing a part into it, I'm not surprised it is failing you.....no one provides anything extra in terms of robustness anymore. Buffing doesn't have as much force applied when abrasive compounds are used and doing the real polishing work.

Consider a dual sided grinder if you need to keep wire wheeling parts and let the buffer buff.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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A couple things to consider (maybe already mentioned but no time to read 46 posts):

Take either the older one or newer one apart and get the bearing details and replace them.
Maybe adding hose clamps to each end of the motor housing could reduce/minimize current/future casting fractures.

Eastwood is marketing these as buffers. With an 8" cantilevered load (grinding wheel) and you pressing a part into it, I'm not surprised it is failing you.....no one provides anything extra in terms of robustness anymore. Buffing doesn't have as much force applied when abrasive compounds are used and doing the real polishing work.

Consider a dual sided grinder if you need to keep wire wheeling parts and let the buffer buff.
Good thoughts. I have now determined that the vibration was not caused by the wire wheel, but rather by the stacked 1/2" buffing wheels on the other end. I was totally surprised by that as I never thought some cloth bits could be heavy enough/out of balance enough to create the problem.
 

DB18w

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Good thoughts. I have now determined that the vibration was not caused by the wire wheel, but rather by the stacked 1/2" buffing wheels on the other end. I was totally surprised by that as I never thought some cloth bits could be heavy enough/out of balance enough to create the problem.
Buffing wheels by their nature are never going to be in balance. When you load up a wheel with buffing compound and the bits of wheel material constantly being flung off that is a fact of life. It's your motor bearings and lack of mass in your motor housing.
as bad as that Eastwood machine is the arbor shaft may even be bent or miss machined as well.
 

tarbellb

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From your photo, your buffing wheel definitely looks unbalanced. The portion that doesn't show any flaring is clearly not contacted the work, essentially skipping or bouncing.

Correct that, bolt and isolate your grinder as much as possible and it should last longer.

I'm also in the camp of look for used, but Grizzly, MSC, JET, Baldor, and others are all decent to good mfg

1000005795.jpg
 

zendriver

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Never owned a “buffer” (with long shafts) but using a wire wheel with one of these didn’t sound right.

Just for fun looked at the Eastwood operator manual and sure enough they are designed to be used with “light pressure” - using buffer wheels.

Surely everyone else that uses a wire wheel use a fair amount of force, getting the occasional hard “fump!” When it catches on something.

Not hard to believe a wire wheel on a long shaft, puts stress on the shaft, bearings and even the mounting base. Possible contributing to the damage and vibration

Buy the Baldor use it incorrectly and you might end up with similar results :dunno:
 

Nutria

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One more vote for used MiUSA. I have 3/4 hp Baldor buffer that I found used at a good price. Outstanding machine. They are out there, if you can manage the wait. Too bad about the Eastwood machine(s); good luck with your search.
 

1982fxr

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"Clean up something" is much too vague.

What exactly are you wanting to be able to do?
In almost every instance, whatever you want to do on a bench grinder is done better, faster and safer on a belt grinder.

1771601365814.png


You can get belts that will effectively eliminate the need for wire wheels.
What kind of belts eliminate need for wire wheels? Serious question, I have never really looked at all the belt stuff nowadays.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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Never owned a “buffer” (with long shafts) but using a wire wheel with one of these didn’t sound right.

Just for fun looked at the Eastwood operator manual and sure enough they are designed to be used with “light pressure” - using buffer wheels.

Surely everyone else that uses a wire wheel use a fair amount of force, getting the occasional hard “fump!” When it catches on something.

Not hard to believe a wire wheel on a long shaft, puts stress on the shaft, bearings and even the mounting base. Possible contributing to the damage and vibration

Buy the Baldor use it incorrectly and you might end up with similar results :dunno:
Apparently you didn't see post #40 above. After the second Eastwood failed, I decided to reassemble the first one with a JB Welded base. When I plugged it in with no wheels the motor spun at full speed with no apparent vibration. Then I installed only the wire wheel and turned it on and got the same result. I then installed the buffing wheels I had been using on the other end and turned it on and immediately had significant vibration. The wire wheel is not the problem. Bearings and shaft appear to be fine. I am not sure that your assumption about misuse is viable. The problem is a very poor design that has the base held to the armature housing by 2 machine screws that go through lugs on the base and screw into the armature housing. The screws can loosen with vibration and fall into the base. Once the screw on the side of the imbalance falls out, the vibration can increase in magnitude quite quickly resulting the the mounting lug on the opposite side of the base breaking off. As others have pointed out, buffing wheels are not likely to ever be in balance.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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@Jeff Ivers - if you're anywhere near Bartlesville, you might look into this. Unlike ebay, you'll be able to plug it in, run it and inspect it. And the seller is motivated - the price drops every few days. Cosmetically, it's no prize, but that's fixable.
Thanks for the tip. I do not have access to facebook, but a friend checked and said this was a narrow shaft grinder, not a wide shaft buffer. Not a project I want to take on.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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Thank you for the comments and hints. I would love to have a Baldor wide shaft buffer motor and will keep my eyes open for any deals. I simply cannot talk myself into spending the money for a new one with the expected amount of use I will give it. I have repaired both my Eastwoods with JB Weld and confirmed they both run with no apparent damage to shafts and motors. I replaced the machine screws holding the base to the arm. housing with longer bolts and nyloc nuts as shown:
buffer 9 r.jpg
If they had come this way, I do not think they would have failed. I have run the first one I repaired for about 2 hours of buffing with no problems. In the meantime, I have acquired this Rikon:
Rikon buffer 1 r.jpg

It runs at half the speed (1725 rpm) and I believe this will make it less prone to vibration problems. I can't deploy it until I make an adapter plate for my buffer stand, so will continue using the repaired one till then.
 

DB18w

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Thank you for the comments and hints. I would love to have a Baldor wide shaft buffer motor and will keep my eyes open for any deals. I simply cannot talk myself into spending the money for a new one with the expected amount of use I will give it. I have repaired both my Eastwoods with JB Weld and confirmed they both run with no apparent damage to shafts and motors. I replaced the machine screws holding the base to the arm. housing with longer bolts and nyloc nuts as shown:
buffer 9 r.jpg
If they had come this way, I do not think they would have failed. I have run the first one I repaired for about 2 hours of buffing with no problems. In the meantime, I have acquired this Rikon:
Rikon buffer 1 r.jpg

It runs at half the speed (1725 rpm) and I believe this will make it less prone to vibration problems. I can't deploy it until I make an adapter plate for my buffer stand, so will continue using the repaired one till then.
I have seen lots of positive reviews on the Rikon grinders used with CBN wheels for sharpening. Just the extended end bells should give way more support for the arbor shaft. Hope this works out well for you.
 

Hohn

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That other poster never responded, but I don't see how a belt is going to do 95% of the things I use a wire wheel for.
What do you use a wire wheel for? Rust removal? Deburr? Getting pipe dope off a plug or ******?

A hand wire brush works fine (and safer) for most of these kinds of things. For the other stuff, there are surface conditioning belts and bristle discs.
 

1982fxr

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I won't do that. But a hand brush will and it will do it without pulling removing flesh from your fingers.
I'm not ******* around with handbrushes to clean bolts up when I have a wire wheel. That's like telling me a horse will get me cross country as fast as a car.

Why would a wire wheel remove flesh from your fingers?
 

1982fxr

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Don't get me wrong, if I had the space I'd probably add a belt set up on a machine.

But what you're saying doesn't make sense. I can't really think of anything I use a wire wheel for that a belt can even do.

Can you give us examples?
 
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Jeff Ivers

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You disagree, I get it. I'm out.

Don't get me wrong, if I had the space I'd probably add a belt set up on a machine.

But what you're saying doesn't make sense. I can't really think of anything I use a wire wheel for that a belt can even do.

Can you give us examples?
The topic of this thread is whether of not it is worth spending the money on a baldor wide shaft buffer versus alternatives.

Would you take your off-topic argument elsewhere before you get the entire thread banned?
 

whateg01

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I like hot dogs!






Is a baldor worth it? That is like asking are snap on wrenches worth it? If you want one, if it'll make you feel better, go for it. Is it likely to stand up to more abuse than a $40 import? Yes

Also taking the thread in the direction of whether wire wheels can be replaced by a belt isn't going to get a topic banned. If it gets to name calling it might get locked though.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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I would have thought you had been around long enough to recognize that "taking a thread in a different direction" is called highjacking and is frowned on. I also would have thought that you had seen threads ended because a moderator labeled them as "worthless" following repetitive bickering on off topic issues. Why encourage bad behaviour?
 

BombShelter

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I would google local machine auction websites (factory shut downs are the best), I got a Baldor Grinder with a killer custom very heavy stand for under a hundred a few years ago. I'm with the others, 22" of unbalanced shaft hanging out is really going to stress the motor parts, I'm surprised there's no user-manual info stating that.
 

Recoveryman

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I think many have assumed that all Baldor stuff is American made, but that's not true any more. Some of it is even made in China.
Recoveryman
 

1982fxr

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I would have thought you had been around long enough to recognize that "taking a thread in a different direction" is called highjacking and is frowned on. I also would have thought that you had seen threads ended because a moderator labeled them as "worthless" following repetitive bickering on off topic issues. Why encourage bad behaviour?
Did you buy it?
 
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