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To Reframe, Or Not To Reframe

TimBobUSA

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Dec 31, 2018
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North Carolina
To Reframe, Or Not To Reframe Wall w/OH Doors

Hey folks,

I could use some more of your advice on my never ending shop (garage) renovations. I recently removed the sheetrock, insulation, and vinyl siding from the south wall, which has two 8x7 overhead garage doors, and discovered framing like I've never seen before. The sill plate is 2x6, the lower wall framing is 2x6 and goes to just above the doors and is not 16 or 24 OC, and upper framing is 2x4 and goes from top of the doors to bottom of the truss and is mostly 16 OC. I believe it's been this way since the building was constructed 20 - 30 years ago. It's survived multiple hurricanes and being left abandoned for the last 10 years.

Should I leave it as is or re-frame? If you think I should reframe it, can you direct me to a detailed framing diagram? Everything I'm seeing online states that I need to follow the portal framing method for anything over 6 feet wide. http://cdnassets.hw.net/89/14/4301ab0b446fbbb4f853732b6d42/0817-jlc-apa-portal-03.jpg


This is 26x26 and is out in the country, in the Piedmont of NC.
I'd prefer to reframe it using 2x4's on top of the 2x6 sill; matches other walls.
I like the look and functionality of having two doors.
Purchasing new overhead garage doors isn't an option right now.
 

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Wrench97

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The top looks like a filler, not really a weight bearing wall on the gable ends they may have framed it that way thing to install a higher sliding door or hanger style door and later went with a roll up.

Any issues with it?
The only disadvantage I can think of is wind load.
 
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TimBobUSA

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Dec 31, 2018
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North Carolina
The top looks like a filler, not really a weight bearing wall on the gable ends they may have framed it that way thing to install a higher sliding door or hanger style door and later went with a roll up.

Any issues with it?
The only disadvantage I can think of is wind load.

No issues, other than not having any way to secure the new LP SmartSide lap siding to studs, as they recommend. I could attach 2x4's to the existing 2x6's on the lower half to resolve that issue, but that's still a work around.
 

Wrench97

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For attachment of the siding you could just sister in a 2x where needed. If the plywood is 1/2" or thicker the siding will probably be fine nailing on the studs you have and the plywood in the center.
 
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TimBobUSA

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North Carolina
For attachment of the siding you could just sister in a 2x where needed. If the plywood is 1/2" or thicker the siding will probably be fine nailing on the studs you have and the plywood in the center.

Thanks. I think I'll go with your suggestion, unless someone else chimes in with a good reason to reframe that wall. I plan on adding some additional bracing anyway, since they didn't overlap the top plates, etc.
 

u2slow

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The extra labour to re-frame is one thing, but now material costs even more due to covid.

I would rip some scrap lumber to fur out the 2x4's to 2x6 so you can use 2x6 insulation and board right across it. Another idea is to cut in diagonal braces... this idea: https://andyidsinga.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/shed_15-5.jpg

Use thicker board (5/8?) on that wall if you want it even stiffer.
 

Jinks

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I'd fill in with 2X where you need it for siding attachment, but get some hurricane straps on everything you can.
 
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nadogail

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I have a condominium unit where the walls between adjacent units were built with 2X6 sills and headers and the 2X4 studs are staggered and offset allowing sound insulation to be woven between them. This keeps those common walls from acting like drum heads and reduces sound transmission between units.

I am sure the wider top plates and sills made it easier to design in the upper floors and their supports. IMHO, keep the extra strength of the 2X6 rather than replace them with 2X4s
 
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TimBobUSA

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The extra labour to re-frame is one thing, but now material costs even more due to covid.

I would rip some scrap lumber to fur out the 2x4's to 2x6 so you can use 2x6 insulation and board right across it. Another idea is to cut in diagonal braces... this idea: https://andyidsinga.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/shed_15-5.jpg

Use thicker board (5/8?) on that wall if you want it even stiffer.

You aren't kidding about material costs going up. They're killing me!

Thanks for the additional ideas; I may implement them as part of the complete solution. I also have some 2x6's from their old deck that are in good shape, so I could always repurpose those.
 
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TimBobUSA

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I'd fill in with 2X where you need it for siding attachment, but get some hurricane straps on everything you can.

That's a great solution for attaching the siding, and Wrench97 said the same, so I'll probably go that route and integrate other suggestions as well.

Will do on the hurricane straps.

Thanks!
 
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TimBobUSA

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I have a condominium unit where the walls between adjacent units were built with 2X6 sills and headers and the 2X4 studs are staggered and offset allowing sound insulation to be woven between them. This keeps those common walls from acting like drum heads and reduces sound transmission between units.

I am sure the wider top plates and sills made it easier to design in the upper floors and their supports. IMHO, keep the extra strength of the 2X6 rather than replace them with 2X4s

Agreed on the 2x6's, especially since it's the south wall. I'd forgotten I have some 2x6's I can repurpose, so I could always go all 2x6. Part of my lighting plan involves recessed can lights centered in the 24" OC trusses, so that one section will be a little off.

Thanks for for the extra ideas!
 

rayra

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I certainly wouldn't go to the trouble of re-framing, it will do. Add your bracing / ties while the wall is open. But I'd tell the OCD to shut up and get back in its cage. There's plenty of othe rwork to be done without re-framing a wall for the hell of it.
 
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