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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Tom's Neighborhood Workshop

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

jbmatth

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Jun 3, 2013
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Northern Ok.
Depending on the details and my travel schedule I'll usually get a hotel room but will still on occasion car camp. I tend to go the other route though staying in more public areas in a nicer part of town, usually in a hotel parking lot, now I wouldn't recommend trying that in all places, but have never had an issue with it to date. For me one of the toughest parts about flying anywhere for travel and feeling "safe" is that I really can't take a firearm with me, but I think it is just because of the unknown. Around home I don't carry in my DD, partly due to work rules that are vague at best but also I wouldn't hesitate to just let them have my car, they'd probably bring it back in 5 minutes and say nevermind, I don't want it. :ROFLMAO:

JB
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Billings, MT
Let's get the time machine kicked on and fill you guys in on some changes to the workshop. All of this happened prior to the new Land Cruiser coming home.

First up, as some have noted, I got the top chest of my toolbox!

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I was concerned about this not being the right size and not fitting my area or tools perfectly, but I was pleasantly surprised when I wheeled it under the cabinets. It fits great, and the top chest even opens fully enough to not be a pain. My original thought was that I'd remove that door, but after seeing it I prefer not to do that.

The upper chest ended up being a perfect setup for all of my sockets and ratchets.

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I really like having my ratchets arranged like this. They're all right there and easy to get at. Plus I think this is a cool presentation.

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I am working on something magnetic to hold the extensions on this left side, but haven't finalized that yet. I'd like to get them up there so I have more room for another set of impact sockets in the future or more specialty sockets. Or a gigantic breaker bar. Or all of the above.

Handily, I've got all my wrenches in the next drawers down. Standard on the left, ratcheting on the right. The smaller drawer has a super nifty set of 3D printed and magnetic wrench holders I can like for however many wrenches I'd like. Currently have an extra space for metric and imperial.

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Suddenly feeling like I'm low on screwdrivers.

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Even more so on pliers.

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Plenty of room for a good chunk of my auto specialty stuff though.

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I've currently got four completely empty drawers, which I am sure I'll find a use for at some point, but it's funny having them right now. I've got more storage than I've ever had before.

I do also have some only partially full drawers, like this one.

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This holds Thor's Hammer, my DeWalt DCF900 "holy **** it's going to rip my arm off" high torque impact. Got a stuck, rusty bolt that is a making a big deal of coming loose? Nothing is a big deal for this thing. It's got so much size and power it is making my other power tools feel woefully inadequate.

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On the cabinet front, the carcass is completely finished. I've gotten the frame built of 2x4s and then sheathed in 3/4 plywood, held together by (surprise!) pocket hole screws and brad nails. Gave it a coat of paint and got the shelf supports installed.

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The shelf supports are spaced to perfectly fit 8 of the large size milk crates, which I use to organize my stuff. I've also left a larger space at the bottom for taller stuff like a 5gal bucket or my oil drain pan.

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I still need to cut the shelves and get them in, as well as build the doors. Taking a while, but it's really starting to look closer to finished, and I am really getting a sense of the storage I have here now. I also am starting to really visualize the second workbench area I'll have. Going to have plenty of room to do all kinds of fun stuff!

More to come soon!
 

bj383ss

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TX
Everything is looking good Tom. I prefer the older vintage toolboxes of the 60's and 70's but I really like how you laid out the top of the box with all the sockets and ratchets. Gives me some ideas. I have ratchets and sockets spread across 3 toolboxes and need to get them all reorganized together someway. I have recently been adding swivel impact sockets as I need them. My new favorite tools for my impact gun.


You definitely need more screwdrivers. :ROFLMAO:

Bret
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Everything is looking good Tom. I prefer the older vintage toolboxes of the 60's and 70's but I really like how you laid out the top of the box with all the sockets and ratchets. Gives me some ideas. I have ratchets and sockets spread across 3 toolboxes and need to get them all reorganized together someway. I have recently been adding swivel impact sockets as I need them. My new favorite tools for my impact gun.


You definitely need more screwdrivers. :ROFLMAO:

Bret
Thanks Bret!

I get you on the older boxes. I actually really don't like the oversized storage tills on top of most tool chests today, I think they're a bit ugly to be honest. I prefer the older style. But having all this space to lay out my sockets and stuff like I have. Really like having it all right there and easy to grab. Makes the built-in power strip kinda pointless but oh well.

I've not used a swivel impact, in fact I almost never use swivels. I think I have one? I didn't see a need to get impact sockets at all actually until I got my DeWalt gun. Sweet lord that thing is punchy.

Ha! This is after paring down screwdrivers a lot. I find I don't use that many, though I do want to get an insulated set for wiring and maybe some more specialty ones. But I'm not regularly running into situations where I go, "man, I need x screwdriver" so I'm probably not adding to my setup any time soon.
 

bdbecker

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Iowa
...I find I don't use that many, though I do want to get an insulated set for wiring and maybe some more specialty ones. But I'm not regularly running into situations where I go, "man, I need x screwdriver" so I'm probably not adding to my setup any time soon...

Let the projects be your guide... It might take a few years, but you'll eventually get that drawer filled up.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Let the projects be your guide... It might take a few years, but you'll eventually get that drawer filled up.
Ha, don't I know it. I'll get them all filled at some point.

Looking good Tom. It looks like the clearance between the new top chest and the uppers is perfect. Just enough to let you get to everything and enough to allow the drawers to unlock.
Actually, the drawers aren't latched to that top door thingy, which is really what I prefer. I hate that sort of "security" mechanism.

It does open just far enough though, just enough to catch the light from the lamps above the bench.
 

nicholam77

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Dec 18, 2016
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Minneapolis, MN
Tom, I know I'm late to the party, but I finally had a chance to read through your Land Cruiser travels. Amazing journey and excellent pictures. What a cool way to start it off!

A quick and dirty calculation showed I've save a ton of money if I flew down and drove the thing home. I called my wife and my mother and father, and the answer was the same: "Buy the damn thing and shut up already."

That's how you gotta do it... wear 'em down!

I'm a taco nut. You could probably fill a tortilla with well-seasoned tree bark and I'd happily eat it with some onion and cilantro. Nothing felt more appropriate for that time in that place than some local tacos.

Me, too. Only street tacos, ever. Got hooked when I lived in LA for college. There's a few spots in Minneapolis but overall the taco scene leaves a lot to be desired here, so I always make it a point to seek them out when traveling. While I've had excellent-tasting "gourmet" street tacos, my favorite is simplicity. Meat, onions, cilantro, maybe some cotija, and good spicy salsas.

The upper chest ended up being a perfect setup for all of my sockets and ratchets.

Wow your ratchet and socket setup looks great! Makes me wonder why I wasted all that time 3d printing!

The smaller drawer has a super nifty set of 3D printed and magnetic wrench holders I can like for however many wrenches I'd like.

Curious about these... do you have a file, and do the wrenches slide around much? What part is magnetic, the bottom to hold in the drawer or are their magnets that hold the wrenches in place?
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Tom, I know I'm late to the party, but I finally had a chance to read through your Land Cruiser travels. Amazing journey and excellent pictures. What a cool way to start it off!
Thanks Nick! It definitely was a cool way to start our relationship, and a great way to learn the car. Can't wait to take it even more places. She just eats up the miles comfortably.

That's how you gotta do it... wear 'em down!
Ha! Just keep pestering. I got that from my kids.

Me, too. Only street tacos, ever. Got hooked when I lived in LA for college. There's a few spots in Minneapolis but overall the taco scene leaves a lot to be desired here, so I always make it a point to seek them out when traveling. While I've had excellent-tasting "gourmet" street tacos, my favorite is simplicity. Meat, onions, cilantro, maybe some cotija, and good spicy salsas.
Right with you there man. I've had some incredible stuff when I venture south or somewhere with a larger Latin population. There's a couple of places here in Montana actually that are legendary for their tacos, and I always try to sample them when I'm in the area. Nothing beats a good taco.

Now I'm hungry.

Wow your ratchet and socket setup looks great! Makes me wonder why I wasted all that time 3d printing!
Thanks! I think the pegboard idea worked out well. Honestly it was all born out of the desire to have everything socket-related in one place. I hate having to go fishing in multiple drawers to get something together, so having it all right in front of me was the goal. I came up with a few ideas for socket trays and such, but in the end a classic peg tray was what I stuck with. They're cheap and way easier to identify socket sizes. I actually ended up buying a whole new set because my Hansen trays didn't quite match each other in color.

One I had those laid out, I kind of figured laying the ratchets down would take up way too much space, so I went for the simplest option and used pegboard hooks for the ratchets, which worked really well. Just need to figure out the extensions and I'll be set!

Curious about these... do you have a file, and do the wrenches slide around much? What part is magnetic, the bottom to hold in the drawer or are their magnets that hold the wrenches in place?
Full disclosure: I bought these on Etsy. Wrenches don't slide much but aren't held to the rack by magnets. The magnets are on the bottom and just keep the rack in place within the drawer. What's really cool about them is they interlock, so you can have as many or as few as you need for your given space.


Cheap? Not really, but not all that expensive either. They were the perfect solution for my use. I can fit 18 in that drawer.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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After getting the Land Cruiser home, it was time to take a closer look at some of the things I had noticed during the drive and start thinking about a maintenance/repair/upgrade list. Mechanically it needs nothing at this point, it's as tight as a drum with plenty of brake pad left, no play in the steering, and no weird rattles, clanks, clunks, thunks, twangs, or bangs. All good there. Cosmetically, the exterior is in near-perfect shape except for some rock chips on the hood and faded grille paint. It looks great standing in front of it.

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As previously mentioned, I really hate these wheels, but that's not a major issue and one that is easily remedied. I think I have the solution I'm going with figured out, just need to take the leap and buy them. Sticking with the black on white theme because I think it looks really good and when I tried out the 100 Series wheels on it (which ended up not working), I realized I wasn't a fan of the factory gray coated wheels.

Inside is not quite so perfect, but overall in good condition. No tears or appreciable wear in the seats, the steering wheel is in good shape, and none of the trim or panels are broken.

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But it's not without problems. The one annoying me the most right now is this hole in the carpet, which is mostly covered by floor mats, but still visible. Working on a fix for this. Doesn't need to be perfect, just not obvious.

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Next in the annoyance list are two scratches in the dash leather. Not a huge deal and from what I gather easy to repair, but annoying. I'll have my local interior specialist sort that out.

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The most glaring thing, and one that pretty much every single 200 Series with more than 50k on it suffers from, is the condition of the shift knob. I don't know what process they used to coat these, but it wasn't very good. This fix is cheap and easy and has already been performed, so no big deal there.

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Next issue is more a mystery than an actual problem. This piece of trim is loose. It took me forever to figure out there's a clip inside that holds the panel in the right spot that has broken. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to remove this panel to access things properly. As a result, I'll probably just fish the clip in there and pop everything into place without disassembling.

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Also noticeable is the wear on the metallic interior surfaces. This really annoyed me when I bought the truck and I had considered getting them vinyl wrapped, but I've since discovered that SEM makes a bumper paint that matches this interior color almost perfectly. With a clear coat there's almost no difference between that and the factory pieces. I have the paint in my shop currently.

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And lastly, the previous owner fancied himself an overlander and screwed various things to the inside of the truck, so I have a bunch of screw holes scattered throughout the cabin. Annoying, but most of them aren't visible. I'll figure out something to minimize their visual impact at some point.

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The great news is all of that stuff is easily remedied, and most of it is really cheap to fix. I'm not aiming to make the truck showroom ready but I would like to freshen it up a touch and keep it nice inside for the long haul. Tough to do with a pair of young boys but we'll do what we can.

Onto the best part of the interior: the aftermarket drawer system.

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Full disclosure: I was going to install one of these anyway, though I probably would have built something or gone with a lighter-weight version. That being said, I was really impressed with the quality and thought put into the Dobinson's drawers for being one of the cheaper options on the market. And it turns out the weight is really not a concern since the third row seats way about the same as these drawers do, so frankly it's a wash.

I really like the additional functionality these give though. The drawers are stout and well-sized, and the carpet is tough outdoor-grade stuff. They fill the space really well but leave a few inches between them and the 2nd row seats, which is perfect for my onboard water tank idea. Each drawer has approximately one million roller bearings supporting it, and the interiors are lined with a softer carpet.

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Though I won't use it for this, the left-side drawer top rolls out to access a 12v fridge. Nice touch that these come standard.

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The dead space on either side is made flat by little "wings" that fill the gap between the drawer modules and the interior panels. They've made each top removable for storage, which I've already started using, as you can see.

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Overall I really like the drawer system. It makes the truck infinitely more usable and gives me plenty of access options, which I've discovered can make all the difference on a longer trip. Being able to roll open a drawer and get what you need without moving a bunch of boxes or undoing a ratchet strap is a lifesaver. Anything we can do to make life easier is appreciated.

With my inspection and some move-in stuff performed, I started thinking about my baseline maintenance and repair list, as well as the order of operations for modifications. For baselining, here's my current list:
  • Air filter
  • Cabin filter
  • Transmission fluid filter
  • Drain/replace transmission fluid
  • Drain/replace transfer case oil
  • Drain/replace diff oil
  • Drain/replace coolant
  • Serpentine belt
  • Spark plugs
  • PCV valve
  • Brake pads
  • Heater tees (a famously known problem on the 100 Series)
  • Grease driveshafts
I've already done coolant and heater tees (another post soon), as well as the cabin filter and driveshaft service. I'm going to do a full service on the oils and do the plugs, air filter, belt, and PCV valve once it's time for an oil change in about another thousand miles. The brakes have tons of meat left on them so I'm good for a while there. I hope to have all of this done in the next month or so.

As far as repairs, I'll start whittling away at the interior stuff soon.

Mods: Not a lot I can start off with. I'll throw an oil catch can under the hood and work on finishing my electrical tray, as well as work on mounting my air compressor. There's some interior stuff to do like a tablet mount, phone mount, and seat covers. Also Raingler makes an "attic" for lighter items out of military webbing, I'll definitely put that on the list too. All the big stuff will wait until Sandy get sold.

So much to do!
 
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wreckdiver1321

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I think you got a pretty good one there Tom, well done. An item I'd add to your list is brake fluid flush, cheap and pretty easy with the help of a friend if you don't have a bleeder tool.

JB
Thanks JB, I feel like this one is a really solid example.

Definitely going to do the brake fluid, thought I had it on the list. I may upgrade/extend the brake lines to stainless braided lines though, trying to decide if I want to do that. Then I'll address the brake fluid.

And if you don't have a bleeder tool, that job would be a perfect excuse to get one. Love my Motive power bleeder.
I do have a pneumatic bleeder already thankfully. I've been slowly collecting specialty tools while they're on sale so I don't have to rent, borrow, or improvise when I'm in the middle of a project. As a result I have a bunch of brand new tools I've not used yet but are ready when I need them.

+1 on the Motive Power Bleeder!

BTW you inspired me to get all my sockets organized by SAE, Metric, and Impact and then broken down into 3/8" and 1/2" drive. My metric drawer is little on the weak side.

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Bret
Nicely done!

If I'm honest, my socket and toolbox organization is extremely iterative. I'm thinking about how to make it better or cleaner every time I open a drawer. I recently invested a good chunk of money into some products to help improve storage density, which I think is one of the keys to toolbox efficiency. Plus I got rid of a lot of things I don't need or never use. Crappy ratchets, screwdrivers I already have 5 of, pliers that I've never once used, etc. Some of that got put into a truck tool roll but a lot of it ended up in a local pawn shop.

Like anything in a shop, it's always changing.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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The next project to work on had me more worried than it should have.

Full disclosure - up until this project, I've never swapped a radiator in my life. I've jiggled a few to make room. I've cleaned several, painted a few, and had a couple spit at me, but I have never done a radiator swap. Feels like a gap in my automotive knowledge. Well, the good news is Toyota has a solution to that problem: the 2008-2018 Land Cruiser radiator.

Turns out, the Land Cruiser's only real Achilles heel is the radiator it shipped with from 2008-2018. A small crack generally develops near a raised portion that holds the part sticker. Thanks to a 90* angle in the plastic, repeated heating and cooling cycles cause the plastic to stress crack, and eventually the crack goes all the way through, puking out the contents of the radiator in the process. Generally this happens anywhere from 100k-175k miles, and the radiator was replaced with a new design in 2018. I knew going in this might be something to be on the lookout for, and made sure to check before leaving Dallas that the radiator was not cracked. At the time, it wasn't. But after a couple of weeks of driving, including the 1650 mile roadtrip home, I saw this:

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Ignore the fingernail scratch on the right. Doesn't look like much, right? Well, shift your angle and...

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Alright, so I've got the radiator crack. I trundled on down to the Toyota dealership, which is literally three minutes from my house, and made friends with the guy at the parts counter, who also happens to be a Cruiserhead. As such, he gave me a great deal on the new radiator and ordered it up for me. I also ordered a set of heater hose T's, which so famously fail on the 100 Series, as preventative maintenance. I also picked up two gallons of Toyota Super Long Life Coolant to refill the system once the work was done. I then stopped off to buy some grease to do a driveshaft service, as I am working my way through the baseline maintenance on this truck.

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With all the **** in hand, I pulled into the shop and opened the petcock of the radiator to drain it, then set about removing the stock "skid plates" underneath the truck. I have to say, the setup on the factory skids is a little weird. The main skid is a two-piece arrangement with overlap in the middle and a central support member running down the center, which is detachable. Behind that is a large, one-piece splash guard that "protects" the transmission. It's a weird design. Two bolts snapped off on me, presumably because they've never been removed, and two had captured nuts inside the frame that had become un-captured. Annoying, but easily dealt with thanks to my sawzall.

With the splash guards removed, I opened the radiator petcock and drained it of coolant. Toyota pink flowed out looking a lot cleaner than I was hoping for, which is great news.

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While the radiator was draining, I worked on another well-known issue.

Well, I hesitate to call it an issue. It's more of an annoyance really. The key fobs that Toyota sends out with their vehicles, at least in my experience, are lackluster at best and downright garbage at worst. Most of the time they're flimsy and overly large for the electronics in them, really letting down the overall experience of the robust and well-designed Land Cruiser.

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Luckily, the internet has a solution: YotaMD.

The gentleman who runs this company is a bona-fide Toyota nut who came up with the idea to update and strengthen the Toyota key fob cases. In my case, being a keyless start, I'm not interacting with it as much, but the key I did on my 100 Series was a night and day difference. The plastic housing on the YMD key is much stronger and reinforced by a titanium ring around the whole key, making it feel comically solid. Even better, he makes them as small as he can in order to keep embarrassing pocket bulges t bay. I just had to have one for my 200 Series key.

The process is simple: pop the existing key fob open and disassemble completely.

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Here's the new case with hardware and keychain. Nicely packaged, good instructions, and two sets of hardware if you want black screws or stainless. I went for stainless.

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Swapping the guts over is as simple as can be. The hardest part is lining up the buttons, but that's pretty easy. Then use the included allen key to tighten down the hardware, and you're done.

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Much better!

With that job done and the radiator empty, it was a fairly quick and simple job to remove it. Four bolts on top, four bolts on bottom, move the fan shroud out of the way, and remove the coolant and transmission fluid hoses. Then it's a simple matter of wiggle, wiggle, wiggle until the radiator comes out.

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Then chuck the old one atop a pile of other garbage.

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To be continued...
 
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wreckdiver1321

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I'm a big believer in OE parts these days. Back when I started wrenching on Chevy 4x4s in my high school days, the parts store or junkyard were my preferred source, but when I translated that into fixing or maintaining my Japanese 4x4s like my Nissan, I was always left disappointed. Parts would fail quickly, they wouldn't fit correctly, or they'd not work as well. The older I get, the more I'm willing to pay for reliability and durability, and the less I'm willing to screw with aftermarket stuff that doesn't work right. I just want my truck to be dependable wherever I take it.

With that in mind, here's the new radiator.

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As you can see, the design is an upgrade on the original. The raised flat panel is now much less pronounced, with more gentle transitions and flatter curves. Apparently this design does not suffer from the cracking issue that plagues the original design at all.

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Reinstall is easy and much faster than I expected honestly. Hardest part was getting the trans cooler lines hooked back up before dumping a bunch of fluid, which I kind of managed. Everything else went without issue and fit perfectly. OE parts rule!

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Before filling and burping the system, I addressed the heater tees.

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This mess of tangled coolant hoses feeds the rear passenger area heater system by siphoning hot coolant from the main system and pushing it through the rear passenger area before re-circulating it back into the primary loop. In the 100 Series, the little plastic tees were famous for more or less disintegrating. Sometimes on their own, sometimes whenever work was being performed and they were handled roughly. Over on the Toyota forums, changing the heater tees is pretty much the first recommended maintenance item for a 100. That being said, there isn't a lot of history of this happening to the 200 Series, though that could be due to the age of the platform.

Either way, they're cheap and the job is really easy.

Simple matter of popping the clips off and pulling the old tees out. Mine were in good shape but I still swapped them for new Toyota parts.

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With that done, I started filling the new radiator with Toyota SLLC coolant.

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This little filler doohickey I have makes this a really simple job. Fill the rad with coolant until it slows down, then fill the funnel and start the engine. Turn the heat on full blast.

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The coolant starts cycling around the engine and the vibrations will cause any trapped air to find it's way to the surface, which is immediately displaced by the coolant in the funnel. Once the thermostat opens and the coolant begins cycling through the radiator, same thing happens. Any air bubbles in the entire system will find their way to the top of the radiator, where they escape up the funnel and are replaced by the coolant. I let the engine idle with the garage door half open for about 45 minutes just to ensure all air was burped from the system.

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While that happened, I took photos of my newly-installed Weather Tech floor mats that my wife got for my birthday. This is my third set of these and I think they're just about the best thing you can do for floor protection. The fit is solid, like every set I've bought. I opted for classic black because I don't really like the tan interior to be honest. I prefer gray or black. These mats keep the carpet safe but also somewhat mute the sea of beige.

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I tackled some cleaning tasks while the system was burping, then shut the truck off after I stopped seeing bubbles come up. One of the great things about this funnel doohickey is being able to plug it and put the unused coolant back into the jug.

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All that was left was to empty the bucket of used coolant back into an empty jug for disposal and go for a test drive.

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I drove around the block a few times and everything was operating normally. I checked for leaks and, satisfied there were none, pulled back into the garage and shut the lights off for the night.

Easy job in the workshop, and one that gives me the confidence to take the Cruiser anywhere now, which is kind of the point.

So I did!

That weekend, my wife and I celebrated my 31st birthday by taking our kids to the awesome piece of Montana that is Chico Hot Springs, located in Paradise Valley just north of Yellowstone National Park. For those of you who watch the Paramount drama Yellowstone, this is roughly where the Dutton ranch is supposed to be located. There's a little back road I like to take to get there, and that drive never disappoints.

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Chico itself is somewhat of a Montana institution, with the best 5-star restaurant in the state, a resort with rooms and guest cabins, a genuine western bar, and two naturally-fed hot spring pools. Each pool is between 96 and 103 degrees, and both are within a 15 foot walk to a window that joins the bar, where swimmers can get a beer while they soak. It's a slice of heaven.

We drove the Land Cruiser out to Chico, had lunch at the pool restaurant, which is a far lower-scale place than the resort restaurant, and soaked for a few hours with the kids before taking a backroads detour into the mountains on the old mining roads above Chico. The snow made it impossible to get too far, but it was fun to play in the snow for a bit and see what the truck could do. This extremely minor run gave me a lot of confidence in the truck's capability in deep snow, and proved to me the extra width vs. my old Nissan is a non-factor in the places we like to explore.

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All the while, the kids got to watch a DVD from the back seat and had enough space between them to keep from starting any fights.

On the way home, the weather moved in as we drove out of Paradise Valley into Livingston and jumped on the interstate. Notorious for it's weather, the interstate between Livingston and Big Timber is often closed because of blizzards, ice, blowing snow, and general peril. We started driving up the hill out of Livingston and discovered a number of semi trucks parked in the right lane. Slowly approaching them and attempting to get around, I watched as the big rig drivers put snow chains on. I watched another spinning his wheels trying to get up the hill. Yet another slid slowly off the road as he attempted to right the truck. Ahead of me, a Chevy Cobalt swayed a bit trying to climb the same incline.

After stopping to make sure the trucker who slid off the road was okay, I got back into the truck and carefully drove up the hill, where it spun not a single wheel. There was zero indication that the conditions were anything less than dry and clean. No swerving, no spinning, nothing. It just handled it. I crested the hill and drove straight into a wall of blowing snow. Again unfazed, the Land Cruiser easily pushed through, over some mild snowdrifts across the road, and kept marching east. No drama, just got on with it. My God, I love this truck.

We made it home without incident and put the kids to bed. My wife commented on how perfect she thinks our new Cruiser is, and that I absolutely made the right call in buying it. She said she is so excited to take it those places we love.

"Me too babe, me too."
 

zmotorsports

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Happy belated Birthday Tom.

The Toyota's lookin' good and you'r bringing it into better shape. Also glad to see you replace those plastic "T's" as they get hard/brittle over time and especially happy to see you reuse those constant tension clamps. I can't believe the number of people who toss those things in favor of lesser quality clamps these days.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Billings, MT
Happy birthday! Looks like a fun day trip and place I need to mark on my list!
Thanks Marc!

Yeah, Chico is a lot of fun any time of year. Love it out there. The mining roads go way back in there too.

Happy belated Birthday Tom.

The Toyota's lookin' good and you'r bringing it into better shape. Also glad to see you replace those plastic "T's" as they get hard/brittle over time and especially happy to see you reuse those constant tension clamps. I can't believe the number of people who toss those things in favor of lesser quality clamps these days.
Thanks Mike.

Doing my best to keep her around for the long haul, ideally the next 10 years or so, so I'm sticking to scheduled maintenance and trying to be as proactive as I can. History shows that these Land Cruisers are easily 400-500k mile trucks if even modestly maintained, so I think this one will be around for a long, long time.

As for the clamps, yeah these are definitely better than those worm gear ones. Toyota especially seems to favor crazy thick and durable clamps. Plus they're just a spring clamp so they're easier to deal with anyway. No idea why anyone would swap that for anything else.
 

jbrentd

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Jul 8, 2015
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Northeast Oklahoma
Happy Birthday.

It makes you wonder why they had to make a flat spot to apply that sticker and couldn't just apply it to a curved shape.

I got lucky with my 4Runner's radiator that was 26 years old when I got rid of it. They do not have a separate transmission cooler, rather a combined unit that, when it fails, tends to mix coolant and trans fluid. Resulting in the dreaded strawberry milkshake and a destroyed transmission, if it's not caught fast enough.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Happy Birthday.

It makes you wonder why they had to make a flat spot to apply that sticker and couldn't just apply it to a curved shape.

I got lucky with my 4Runner's radiator that was 26 years old when I got rid of it. They do not have a separate transmission cooler, rather a combined unit that, when it fails, tends to mix coolant and trans fluid. Resulting in the dreaded strawberry milkshake and a destroyed transmission, if it's not caught fast enough.
Thanks Brent.

Yeah, I dunno why they needed to do that but whatever. Sticker is going to peel off regardless due to the heating and cooling.

Nissan had the same issue with their 2005+ Frontier/Xterra/Pathfinder platform. I ended up bypassing mine before adding a secondary cooler and a fan to keep it running cool on my Frontier. Forums call that the SMOD, or strawberry milkshake of death. The integrated trans cooler design not seem to be an issue with Land Cruisers. The 100 Series and 200 Series use this setup and I've not read of a single instance of failure, which is neat. Makes you wonder what they did differently.
 

CaptainCaveman

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Joined
Mar 30, 2013
Messages
92
Location
UK.
Took the last few days reading start to finish.

I feel your pain with rust, my nation is seemingly incapable of coping with the snow we barely get. Thus we salt our roads to death and plunge our vehicles into horrible crumbling disrepair.

The new truck looks superb. I really enjoyed the travelogues. I'm jealous of all your open terrain. Europe is so crammed in.

Also, good work on the garage so far. I like the long high storage cabinets. I'll be pinching that idea for my upcoming double do-up.

Thanks for the good read.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Wow, it's way past time for an update isn't it?

Couple of quick and not-so-quick updates have taken place. First of all, I did a quick swap of an interior eyesore on the 200 Series:

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This thing is ugly. It's a problem pretty much all of these trucks suffer from. Luckily Amazon has a $15 solution about 90% as good as the $150 Toyota replacement:

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Much better.

After this, I had to do a quick fix that had been concerning me for a while. When I changed the radiator, I lost a bit of transmission fluid thanks to the cooler lines running through the radiator. I never replaced the lost fluid. So one day I decided to fix that. I did a cursory read of the drain/fill process and saw that Toyota provided an overflow plug on the transmission pan. Logic says that all I need to do is remove the plug there and fill the transmission until I get a little drip out of the overflow plug. Well, this is what happens when you don't read the manual.

The transmission fluid came rushing out like a torrent of water. Luckily I had a big drain pan set up because I lost probably close to half a gallon of fluid. Watching a video uncovered that the fluid level actually needs to be checked at a specific temperature, with the engine running, before you open up the overflow plug to ensure the fluid slowly dribbles out. Then you have enough fluid.

Upon discovering this, I went on a profanity-laden tirade to myself about how Toyota was needlessly complicating this simple process. The gist of my anger was something like this: everybody else just uses a fill plug at a certain level. Just fill to that level and close the fill plug. Why is that not good enough?

Once I had calmed down, I ran over to Toyota to buy another four quarts of their ATF, which is a good deal at the parts counter here.

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Then I sat down with my phone and learned the ridiculous multi-step process. First, jump two pins in the OBDII port.

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This puts the vehicle in a diagnostic mode, which lights up the dash a really scary amount.

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Then row through the gears slowly, then back to park. Then shift to neutral, then drive, then back, rapidly, for six seconds. This activates the temperature sensing mode. When the "D" indicator comes on the dash when the truck is in park, it is at the right temperature. During that time, you crawl under the truck, while it's running, pop open the overflow plug, and see what comes out. Nothing means too little, a dribble is just right, a stream is too much. Inevitably, my first attempt was too much, so I had to add more fluid, made much easier by one of these hand pumps.

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Also, I just want to take a quick second to rave about the Harbor Freight magnetic puck lights again. These are awesome, especially if you have three or four. Being able to set them up to light up an area is really nice, and they're low profile and don't get in the way. One of my favorite things in the workshop.

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Anyway, once I refilled the transmission, a blinking "D" indicator on the dash informed me, much to my dismay, that the transmission was now too hot and I had to wait to start the process over again. I ended up throwing in the towel for the night and doing it the next day.

Meanwhile, work on the 100 Series progressed. I had plug welded a few holes in the bodywork and applied seam sealer. I had sprayed on undercoat inside the fender wells. I had done all of the prep. I had finished all the filling and sanding work, and my neighbor brought over some primer to use. This stuff is seriously cool. It's a roll-on primer that sands super easily. If applied with a foam roller, it lays down fairly smooth, but then can be made glass smooth after 15 minutes with some 320 paper. It also has a high build, so fills in some nasty imperfections. Here it is after application 2 of 3.

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I had also gotten the front fenders back in the shop, stripped them of their crappy aerosol primer, and re-applied the roll-on primer, which sticks much nicer and sands way better.

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Then it was a matter of sanding smooth, finding imperfections, applying filler or spot glaze, then sanding again and re-applying primer. I did this process three times until I had a nice, workable surface that was good. At that point, I told my neighbor it was ready and to let me know when he could get some paint laid down, which he said he was happy to do for me.

We were getting seriously close.

To be continued...
 

bj383ss

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
3,166
Location
TX
Great update Tom. I don't understand why the manufacturers went to this check fluid while running with a drain plug. Was using a dipstick tube too simple! I swear in this world we complicate things for no reason. :rolleyes:

Bret
 

RyanE

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Joined
Feb 4, 2013
Messages
201
Location
Golden, BC
Nice to see you back!

I hear you on the Toyota transmission BS. My 08' 4Runner has the same setup, probably the same transmission.

Check the fluid when hot, in gear with the park brake set/wheels chocked, crawl underneath and crack the overflow bolt. If the transmission gets too hot, stop, let it cool and repeat. In my case, try as I might, I can not get the system to go into transmission fill mode by jumping the OBD II pins and cycling the shifter. No dice. I gave up and used an OBD bluetooth adapter and TorquePro to monitor the transmission temps.

I'm trying to like this 4runner but when Toyota pulls this ****! Don't get me started on the front wheel bearing assemblies, the rear wheel bearings (bearings pressed on to the axle shafts - who does this anymore?) or the leaking front timing cover on the 4.0 V6........

Keep up the good work - looking forward to watching you continue to develop your shop.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Billings, MT
Way cool bud. I have a pair of those HF lights I use every day. Been great, and work just as well or better than the Snappy one I have somewhere (missing). They also go to the woods with me when night wheeling.
Man, I love those lights. So useful and easy to re-adjust. Plus USB-C charging. Nothing to hate on.

Great update Tom. I don't understand why the manufacturers went to this check fluid while running with a drain plug. Was using a dipstick tube too simple! I swear in this world we complicate things for no reason. :rolleyes:

Bret
I get the feeling it was done this way to keep the maintenance guys at the dealership busy. Otherwise these trucks are so overbuilt that taking it to the dealer is hardly necessary at all. I was okay with the way my Nissan did it. It was just a fill level plug on the side of the transmission. Pour fluid in until it dribbles out, and close 'er back up.

Nice to see you back!

I hear you on the Toyota transmission BS. My 08' 4Runner has the same setup, probably the same transmission.

Check the fluid when hot, in gear with the park brake set/wheels chocked, crawl underneath and crack the overflow bolt. If the transmission gets too hot, stop, let it cool and repeat. In my case, try as I might, I can not get the system to go into transmission fill mode by jumping the OBD II pins and cycling the shifter. No dice. I gave up and used an OBD bluetooth adapter and TorquePro to monitor the transmission temps.

I'm trying to like this 4runner but when Toyota pulls this ****! Don't get me started on the front wheel bearing assemblies, the rear wheel bearings (bearings pressed on to the axle shafts - who does this anymore?) or the leaking front timing cover on the 4.0 V6........

Keep up the good work - looking forward to watching you continue to develop your shop.
Might be a similar transmission setup in those. I have a lot of respect for every Toyota 4x4, they seem to just do it well, especially compared to a lot of other options. The pressed on bearings don't bother me, you only have to screw with those every once in a while. Front can't be worse than the 100 Series Cruiser, which needs to be repacked and have the preload set every so often. That timing cover thing is a pain in the *** though. My Nissan had that problem.

All that being said, I feel like the reliability and capability far outweighs these little foibles. Nothing is gonna be perfect, and the accounting department gets a say. But I hear ya, some of it is dumb and frustrating.

Thanks for being onboard, much more to come!

Nice work, Tom. That's wild about the transmission fluid procedure. Seems unnecessarily complicated for sure.

I might need to grab some of those harbor freight lights, they look slick.
There was a lot of swearing when I found out about that. Copious amounts. It was like an AvE video.

I highly recommend them. They go on sale for like $25 each every so often, battery life is good, they're really tough, the magnets are strong, and they use a USB-C cable to charge. When you're not using them they almost disappear they're so small.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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With work on the 100 Series at somewhat of a standstill, I took a weekend recently to get the 200 out in the mountains and snow for a bit of fun. I also had recently discovered a very, very small oil leak on the 200 that may be a rear main weep, but it's comically slow. Like a couple drops a week slow. Prevailing knowledge on the Toyota forums says the 3UR V8 takes a heavier weight oil in the rest of the world vs. the 0W-20 (read: water) used in the US. The available info points to the fact that US law requires manufacturers to spec whatever oil they use in fuel economy testing. Toyota uses 0W-20 to eke out as much fuel economy as they can, so they are required to write that in the manual and on the oil cap.

Well, in the rest of the world, Toyota specs anything from 0W-20 to 20W-50, depending on climate. It's common knowledge that the 0W-20 oil can lead to leaks or oil consumption, so I'm planning to switch to 5W-30 to test if that diminishes or stops the leak. My bet is that it will do exactly that.

Anyway, in a weird example of how my mind works, I wanted to take the truck on a trip so it would prove to me that it was, in fact, reliable despite this little oil leak. I know it's ridiculous. I just drove the truck 2,000 miles without a single hiccup. There are no other signs of any failures or issues. It's rock solid. But if there's something wrong, no matter how small, I worry the whole damn thing is going to fall apart while I'm driving down the road.

As a confidence restorer and for a bit of fun, I left the family at home and headed for the mountains to romp in the snow for a bit. Unsurprisingly to anyone but me, the truck was flawless and had no problems. Just gave me a fun day of playing in the snow.

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My confidence restored, I continued working on the 100 Series and planning all manner of fun things for the 200 Series build. I had picked out which wheels I wanted and more or less how I was going to set up the auxiliary electrical system. I had started to think through what the first mods were going to be and in what order I was going to attack everything. Knowing that I want to get this truck out in the woods and on rough roads, I wanted to get the air compressor online so I could air down the tires. In order to get the compressor up and running, I need to get the electrical system installed. In order to get the electrical system installed, I need my electrical tray finished.

Well, to that end, I had attempted multiple times to build one using 16ga steel, a Dremel, and some files. I was on iteration number three and getting really frustrated with the imperfections, but I was close. I just was having a hard time bending the 90 degree angle for the mounting portion of the tray, so I asked my friend Austin, who runs a machine shop now, if he had access to a break. He said he didn't but asked me about what I was doing. I explained to him what I was building and he offered to draw something up and waterjet it for me so I'd have something precise.

I took him up on his offer and headed to his machine shop. He recently bought out the prior owner and was working hard at optimizing the machines as well as picking up new work. His shop has quite the setup, with access to a CNC mill, a couple of CNC lathes, welders, all manner of other machinery, and two industrial waterjet machines.

Dirk and I got the tour of the place before going up to his office with the parts and the prototype I had made. Austin worked on a drawing of the part. We decided for slightly thicker 14ga steel rather than something like aluminum or stainless for the durability.

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With the drawing complete, he pulled the material and set up the machine.

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Watching the part get cut was a lot of fun. It was less noisy and messy than I thought it might be, and the end result was pristine. A very cool process, and one I will reuse on a few other jobs for this truck. More on that later.

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Shifting gears that weekend, I dove back into some of the baselining of the 200 Series.

To start, I swapped the oil filter cap. Now, this isn't a normal maintenance item for sure but as discussed above, I am going to be running a slightly thicker oil to help alleviate leaks or oil consumption. To prevent any accidental reversion to 0W-20 by any shops I may use in the future, I swapped the oil cap with a matching part that denotes 5W-30 oil be used.

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I also changed out the air filter. I had discovered when I changed the radiator that the previous owner had opted for a K&N air filter. I'm not really a fan of these to be honest. Any claims of them increasing horsepower or airflow are dubious at best, and keeping them clean and oiled in a dirty environment like a 4x4 is not something I want to deal with.

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So, I hucked the $55 reusable filter in the trash.

To replace it, I normally would have picked a WIX, but I couldn't find one locally and they were running around $40 online. The Toyota one could be had at my local dealership for $25. No brainer. Quick swap and I now have a nice new air filter.

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I followed suit with the cabin filter that evening, opting again for a WIX paper filter to replace the likely overly expensive K&N. I probably could have kept the K&N in hindsight, but frankly I don't want to deal with it.

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During the evenings, I continued finalizing the work on the 100 Series. Four coats of primer went on the body, as well as spot glazing and filler in various other areas. I got it looking nice and smooth, a far cry from where we had started. On Wednesday, my neighbor told me to run to the paint supply shop and get a pint of color-matched paint. I went and picked it up on a lunch break, then loaded the 100 Series with the paint, and the fenders, ready to get it to the paint shop. I was getting excited. Only thing left to do was spray it.

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To be continued...
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Messages
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Location
Billings, MT
Excellent Tom. I had to comment after seeing your oil fill cap and air filter as I share your feelings 110% on both items. Although no one else touches my vehicles, but I like to have labels and things done properly regardless. :bowdown::bowdown:
Haha I don't know if it's me being pedantic or what, but man I like having everything labeled and updated correctly. Makes it feel more finished and maybe "high-end". I just like it done right.

High praise coming you Mike! I appreciate that! A lot more coming in a similar vein.

Yep, gotta use that watery **** EPA fuel mileage tests dictate.....NOT! My Mini spec'd 0W-20, but now use Motul 5W-40. Helps on those jaunts up to 130mph..... :ROFLMAO:
Ha! I was kind of surprised at how thin of oil they specified. Feels like such a potential problem area for so little gain.
 

gearhead1960

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Haha I don't know if it's me being pedantic or what, but man I like having everything labeled and updated correctly. Makes it feel more finished and maybe "high-end". I just like it done right.

High praise coming you Mike! I appreciate that! A lot more coming in a similar vein.


Ha! I was kind of surprised at how thin of oil they specified. Feels like such a potential problem area for so little gain.
Yeah, the way I run the piss out my cars, just asking for longevity issues there…ride em’ hard, put em’ away wet.
 
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