To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Tom's Neighborhood Workshop

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

bdbecker

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Messages
5,559
Location
Iowa
Things are really coming together... nice work!

One question... other than the paint color, how do you like that Forward vise? I was actually looking at vises recently because I need to get something on my work toolbox and was considering a 5 or 6 inch version because of the price point and positive reviews. It'll be for light duty work-holding like pneumatic assembly or holding the odd part for drilling/cutting. We have big community use vises in the shop should I need to do anything serious, but it can get annoying having to walk back and forth when working on projects that require a lot of assembly and/or fitting.

(The preemptive reply to anyone who might say that I should just buy a quality used vise is that I have already purchased two vises for this exact purpose but can't bring myself to bring either to work because I'm too worried that someone might do something stupid and damage it. While we don't have a huge issue with it, there are a handful of people you need to watch out for. I'd rather just get something that can be easily replaced should something happen.)
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Things are really coming together... nice work!

One question... other than the paint color, how do you like that Forward vise? I was actually looking at vises recently because I need to get something on my work toolbox and was considering a 5 or 6 inch version because of the price point and positive reviews. It'll be for light duty work-holding like pneumatic assembly or holding the odd part for drilling/cutting. We have big community use vises in the shop should I need to do anything serious, but it can get annoying having to walk back and forth when working on projects that require a lot of assembly and/or fitting.

(The preemptive reply to anyone who might say that I should just buy a quality used vise is that I have already purchased two vises for this exact purpose but can't bring myself to bring either to work because I'm too worried that someone might do something stupid and damage it. While we don't have a huge issue with it, there are a handful of people you need to watch out for. I'd rather just get something that can be easily replaced should something happen.)
Thanks Brad!

So far I am really impressed with it. I haven't wailed on it or really worked it hard yet, but I'm impressed with the build quality and finishing. It's pretty tough and hefty for the size, and it's ductile iron so it should hold up. The main screw and tightening screws for the swivel are smooth and strong. The adjustment handles are hefty. For $105, the 5" version is pretty hard to argue with. I've looked at the HF Doyle vises as well and I'm pretty impressed with them for the price, though the Forward gets you bigger for less cash. Hard to go wrong with either in my opinion.

Only thing I have a gripe with is the static jaw is almost perfectly in-line with the outer lip of the swivel base, so mounting it such that you can clamp long things vertically is a challenge. But it can be done. Just be sure of where your bolts will pop through. Ask me how I know. :lol:

Haha I love that you added that qualifier. It seems there is a contingent of people here who think that unless it's an antique American vise, it's not worth even looking at. But I bashed on a cheap Harbor Freight vise for years without a problem. If you're not a blacksmith or an iron worker, you can get a lot out of "lesser" vises, especially if you pick one of the better-engineered ones. The Forward, Doyle, and Yost ADI all come to mind.
 

bdbecker

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Messages
5,559
Location
Iowa
Haha I love that you added that qualifier. It seems there is a contingent of people here who think that unless it's an antique American vise, it's not worth even looking at.

I just know that every time this question gets brought up, the conversation always gets steered in the same direction - look for a good, used US made vise. I can't say that I disagree with that advice, but at the same time, everyone's circumstances are different. My work tool box consists of tools that, if they were to break or go missing, I wouldn't be too upset about. Sure, I'd be annoyed that I had to replace them, but I don't have a ton of money sunk into them and they have no sentimental value.

Its not that I don't see value in old US made vises, I actually like them a lot, which is exactly why I don't want to bring one to work. I can't stomach the idea of something surviving for 50+ years only to get ruined by some jackass who doesn't know what he is doing. If any jackass is going to ruin my vise, I had better be that jackass.

Thanks for the feedback on the Forward vise - I think that is going to be just the ticket.
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
I just know that every time this question gets brought up, the conversation always gets steered in the same direction - look for a good, used US made vise. I can't say that I disagree with that advice, but at the same time, everyone's circumstances are different. My work tool box consists of tools that, if they were to break or go missing, I wouldn't be too upset about. Sure, I'd be annoyed that I had to replace them, but I don't have a ton of money sunk into them and they have no sentimental value.

Its not that I don't see value in old US made vises, I actually like them a lot, which is exactly why I don't want to bring one to work. I can't stomach the idea of something surviving for 50+ years only to get ruined by some jackass who doesn't know what he is doing. If any jackass is going to ruin my vise, I had better be that jackass.

Thanks for the feedback on the Forward vise - I think that is going to be just the ticket.
Totally agree. Not putting down that option at all. In fact, I'd love to have an old American vise for my shop.

I also think it's location-dependent. Here in Montana I almost never come across a classic US vise. Don't think I've even seen one once. Hence the Forward, which I'm happy with.
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Been going hard at it in the workshop lately.

First on the docket during an evening putter, I decided all the stickers on my toolbox made it look really messy. I'd rather this be a cleaner-looking space, so a few minutes with a heat gun got them all cleaned off. Looking much better now.

52034007984_57b9e7e470_b.jpg

I'm giving serious consideration to painting it, though I might forego that in favor of buying a bigger box sooner. I dunno. Not a top priority at the moment.

Next up, I spent some time playing with a gift left behind by the previous homeowners.

52034007704_ef312daff5_b.jpg

This Wen air filtration system looks to be pretty well-regarded, and with the amount of woodworking and painting I do, it could be a really nice addition to the workshop. So I took it down from the garage ceiling and tried to figure out a good method of getting it on the ceiling in the workshop. This ended up being less successful than I had hoped.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. The filter is about 10" tall, so larger than a typical garage door opener. I wanted to get it as tight to the ceiling as I could, since my Land Cruiser is a tall brute and headroom is at a premium. So I spent a few minutes taking it apart, figuring out how to mount it, and where to locate it. Figuring I wanted it central to the shop, I decided to try mounting it behind the garage door opener. To get it closer to the ceiling, I removed the standard hooks and opened up the filter to see what was inside. Turns out, not much.

52032715007_fd2a4f21b7_b.jpg

With that amount of space, running screws through the body so it was almost touching the ceiling was a pretty good bet. So a little measuring and hole-drilling, and I had new mounting points. I opted for six to keep the weight distributed. While there are only four original mounts, they are reinforced with more steel than the rest of the body. Since my new mounts didn't have that luxury, I opted for overkill. I also picked up some screws and fender washers for mounting.

52033759881_4d787eaf75_b.jpg

52032714337_6ba3b2a9b6_b.jpg

With all the necessary pieces, I lined it up in the center of the shop and mounted it on the ceiling. I ran the cable along the garage door opener mounts and plugged it into the same outlet. I stood back and looked at it, feeling particularly handy.

52033758681_847fbedbc7_b.jpg

As I stared at it, a horrible realization crept up on me like a bad rash. The distance from Sandy's roof rack to the bottom of the filter box looked a little small. Too small. Worryingly small. To confirm my suspicions, I dragged the floor jack over and raised her up, but not all the way.

52033796128_de48c7d0e0_b.jpg

52034006024_9e3ed895bc_b.jpg

Looks pretty close, doesn't it?

52034274610_c8308e6d7d_b.jpg

Really close.

52034004069_d5956602fa_b.jpg

****.

It's touching. That ain't gonna work. With a few curse words, I reluctantly disassembled the filter box and took it down. It's currently residing in my shed until I decide where else to mount it. Should I place it closer to the man door? Over the workbench area? Next to the heater? I'm not sure of the best location for it. It cannot go within the rectangle created by the lights. I need as much overhead space as I can get there.

Nothing like spending a couple hours doing pointless work, isn't there?

Anyway, it was time to move on to the next big thing: modifying my bench. During my work on the filtration system, I had a few screws get bumped and skitter off to the back of the bench, where they flung themselves into the dark oblivion behind the bench and tool boxes. To fix that issue, I decided to add another poplar 1x2 on the back. Unfortunately, I couldn't mount it upright as the frame of the bench sits a little proud of the bench top, so I would need to mount it horizontally.

No problem, cut it to length, glue it in place, and double-secure it with brads. Not the most finished look, but it's a bench. I'll deal with it.

52034004079_91e837d96e_b.jpg

While that was drying, I also decided to attempt to fix an issue pointed out by @gearhead1960, the location of my vise. The static jaw is too far back to be able to clamp long items vertically, so I needed to move it forward and closer to the side. I removed the vise and tried out a bunch of different locations, eventually landing on an orientation I thought would work.

52034003269_51b28f9639_b.jpg

To fill the original mounting holes, I opened up the holes to 1/2", cut some doweling I had on hand to 1", slathered it in glue, and knocked it into place.

52032710012_1a0071643b_b.jpg

Not bad, I can live with that.

Next, I found the new home for the vise and marked the holes, then drilled them through the top. I lined the vise back up and dropped the bolts into the holes to ensure it was all lined up. Bolts dropped in just fine. Then I poked my head under the bench and swore. Loudly. The holes were such that I would not be able to get nuts on two of the bolts. I didn't want to have two lag bolts securing the vise to the bench, so I needed to move the vise. Again. ****.

Out comes the doweling and the new holes got filled. Once that dried, I needed to sand down the dowels and the glue squeeze-out from the new poplar edge band. I also needed to scuff up the top for refinishing. In my frustration and desire to get it finished faster, I took my handheld belt sander to the edge band and the dowel plugs. This was a mistake.

I sanded right through the first ply of the bench top. More swearing.

I walked away for about an hour, playing through the choices in my head on how to proceed. Needing a work bench and deciding it doesn't have to be beautiful, I figured I'd just finish it and get the tung oil on it. I can always modify it or replace it down the road if I feel it is necessary. Besides, the vise would be covering the majority of it anyway, so I decided to just run with it. Without the vise or finish on the bench, it sure looks ugly now.

52032710107_654410e5fe_b.jpg

You'll see I decided on a mounting method for the vise. I just snugged it up to the corner and opted to use a lag bolt on that corner, with the back mounts being bolts through the top. I may go to a longer bolt on the corner to make sure I don't damage that, but with the two bolts holding it down, it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

52034271375_f1205fd44b_b.jpg

As I was finishing the sanding process, I landed on a solution to the ugly bench top. When I build my other bench, the one which will house the drill press, I will build one closer to 5 feet in length rather than 6 feet. That means I can trim about a foot off this bench top and use it for the other bench. Lopping off a foot will remove the ugly section. Problem solved.

Anyway, I finished the sanding and scuffing of the top, then went to town with the tung oil, adding three coats.

52034001644_dbe4ab3ed7_b.jpg

52033775701_103793f1a9_b.jpg

I'll be honest, it doesn't look too bad with the finish on it. Not amazing, but not too bad compared to it unfinished. Depending on the angle you're looking at it.

52033775681_5640de33d3_b.jpg

With the vise mounted back up, that spot more or less disappears.

52033774821_8bb2fd0aaf_b.jpg

Good news: my bench extension worked out perfectly. I'll admit it's not the most elegant solution, but it works just fine. I may cut out a piece of poplar to even out the extension, or I might just leave it. Again, this top will be cut up to fit another frame in the future, so that's when I'll address it or not address it.

52034022199_eda110e391_b.jpg

With another debacle over, it was time to get back to the wall paneling.

I pulled five more pallets into the workshop and cut the stringers off, forming another Pile O' Lumber to sand and stain. At first, I went back to using the belt sander like I had before.

52033812683_a2a624abb7_b.jpg

After fighting with this for a few minutes thanks to the corrugated vacuum hose and the planks wanting to shoot off into oblivion, I looked at the bench vise and changed tack.

52033772886_b38efd3188_b.jpg

Aha! This works much better! Much less exhausting and painful on my back, plus a lot faster. Before too long, I was able to get a big chunk of the lumber pile sanded and stained. Slowly but surely, I added paneling to the wall, hitting six feet before I knew it. One of the real advantages to having a bench vise is being able to more easily and accurately cut the planks to length before they go on the wall. This setup is almost like having a miter saw. Almost.

Not really. But you get what I mean.

52033772371_a40297534c_b.jpg

I made it all the way around the breaker panel and drilled a hole above it for my future electrical plans. More on that later. I also discovered that I didn't need to move the breaker box at all thanks to the design of the panel cover. I just needed longer mounting screws and I'd be good to go.

52032727667_7090bd792e_b.jpg

I also remounted my garage door opener switch in a slightly different location, closer to the door. Progress is coming along swift now!

52034020234_508affb888_b.jpg

That's where I'm at for now. I do have a big Pile O' Lumber that I still need to finish off. A little still needs sanding, most of it is awaiting stain, and some of it is ready to go on the wall. I'm pretty sure I have enough to finish off the wall, so I'm hoping to have that all completed by the weekend. Here's hoping!
 

Trapps

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
2,002
Location
The Detroit Zoo
That pallet wood wall is going to look great once all done! Nice effort, Tom.

I also just now noticed the watermark on your photos, (y)
 

OutlawDrifter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2015
Messages
3,876
Location
KS
It's looking good Tom. Just keep working through the issues, that's just par for the course!
 

fouckhest

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2013
Messages
1,845
Location
Greer, SC
Looking great, loving the pallet wall, hoping to do some of that in my basement along with more black iron pipe accents.

Keep it up, don't let those bench debacles discourage you, remember, its a work bench (I have to remind myself of things like this frequently).
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
That pallet wood wall is going to look great once all done! Nice effort, Tom.

I also just now noticed the watermark on your photos, (y)
Thanks Trapps! It's coming together slowly but surely. I think it's going to look great once it's done.

Ha, I often forget about the watermark. I have Lightroom set to add it automatically when I export after editing.

It's looking good Tom. Just keep working through the issues, that's just par for the course!
Thanks Marc, I'm feeling good about the progress despite the hiccups.

Looking great, loving the pallet wall, hoping to do some of that in my basement along with more black iron pipe accents.

Keep it up, don't let those bench debacles discourage you, remember, its a work bench (I have to remind myself of things like this frequently).
Thanks man! I'm both excited about getting it closer to finished and irritated with myself for wanting to do it. It's a lot of work. :lol: I'll also be doing something similar for the more industrial look. There will be iron pipe and conduit, and some fun light fixtures. I've got some fun plans in my head.

Good luck on doing that in your basement. Can't wait to watch that come together, it should be pretty damn cool.

Haha I'm glad I'm not the only one!
 

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,705
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
Tom, I thought you found a great place for the filter, especially with the outlet for the opener right there. It looks like you have enough room behind the Highlander to move it back a foot or more.
52034006024_9e3ed895bc_b.jpg
I have no experience with factory Toyota roof racks but I thought you could move or even remove those to give you a couple more inches.
Really close.

52034004069_d5956602fa_b.jpg
Good on ya for filling the holes. You are shaming me into doing that on my bench. It's a little late but had you thought of putting E-Z LOK inserts in those holes.
E-Z LOK.jpg
Those hold pretty well in the wood and allow you to use machine bolts to attach the vise. I put them in a corner of a bench top with multiple vise patterns so I could swap vises. Other option is a receiver and hitch mount vise plate. Sadly, HF no longer sells them for a reasonable price.
Hitch Mount Vise Plate.jpg
 

bj383ss

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
3,166
Location
TX
Tom I don't really see any mistakes just things you are learning from.

As far as the air cleaner goes from what I have read they work most effective when they are close to a wall as it helps it circulate the air around the area better and more efficient. You also want to try and face the intake in the direction of what woodworking tools make the most dust which would be the tablesaw and miter saw.

In a garage setting mounting it in the most efficient place can be difficult to do due to the garage door rails if you don't have high ceilings. In my old garage I mounted mine to back wall of the garage far enough for the garage door to clear. In my newer garage I mounted it right between the two doors right over the tablesaw. Essentially want it to scrub the air at least 6 times an hour I think is the standard.

I tried looking for a photo on Google for a location reference but came up empty handed. I probably read about it in a woodworking mag. Also if you want to go down the Dust collection rabbit hole. Phil Thien.

My first garage I had it near the wall and above the miter saw station.

44482648060_85b59550fe_b.jpgDSCN6270 by bjohnson388, on Flickr

Here it is in the new shop. Its not against a wall but I do have the intake right above the tablesaw and I have the vent aimed back over to the woodshop side.

52034618641_d237181d77_b.jpg20220427_173416 by bjohnson388, on Flickr

As far as the vice mounted on the bench. Have you thought about mounting the vise onto a base and then you can position it to were it hangs off the bench in orientation you want and you don't have to worry about where the vise mounting holes line up you can mount the base to the bench. If you used to pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together and then carriage bolts through the bottom to mount the vise to the base. Its a thought I had when you first mentioned the orientation. I didn't say anything because it seemed like you were going to leave for the time being.

Hope some of that makes sense and is helpful.

Keep making progress enjoying your thread.

Bret
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Tom, I thought you found a great place for the filter, especially with the outlet for the opener right there. It looks like you have enough room behind the Highlander to move it back a foot or more.

I have no experience with factory Toyota roof racks but I thought you could move or even remove those to give you a couple more inches.

Good on ya for filling the holes. You are shaming me into doing that on my bench. It's a little late but had you thought of putting E-Z LOK inserts in those holes.
E-Z LOK.jpg
Those hold pretty well in the wood and allow you to use machine bolts to attach the vise. I put them in a corner of a bench top with multiple vise patterns so I could swap vises. Other option is a receiver and hitch mount vise plate. Sadly, HF no longer sells them for a reasonable price.
Hitch Mount Vise Plate.jpg
Bob, I do think I'll probably re-mount the filter further back, between the man door and one of the lights. I'll play with it a bit to see what the best orientation is, but I definitely want it up there.

Actually, the roof rack on the Land Cruiser (Highlander, PAH! :lol: ) is aftermarket. I have my awning mounted to it, as well as a roof box that goes up there regularly, so the rack will stay. Moving the filter will work though, just need to figure out where. Hazards of owning a big modified 4x4 I suppose.

Thanks! I knew they needed to be filled or I'd drop stuff through them or something. I'd also be annoyed at them.

I did think of the E-Z Loks but opted to just "quick and dirty" it for the time being as I wanted use of my vise and bench back. I had everything on hand to do what I did, so that's how it played out. I have thought about the hitch mount before, but I'm perfectly happy having the vise fixed to a bench. I use it often enough and I have enough bench space that I really don't need to be able to relocate it.

Like I said, I'll be cutting up this top in the future to use for the shorter bench, so when I rebuild the main bench top, I may use those E-Z Loks or come up with something different.
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Tom I don't really see any mistakes just things you are learning from.

As far as the air cleaner goes from what I have read they work most effective when they are close to a wall as it helps it circulate the air around the area better and more efficient. You also want to try and face the intake in the direction of what woodworking tools make the most dust which would be the tablesaw and miter saw.

In a garage setting mounting it in the most efficient place can be difficult to do due to the garage door rails if you don't have high ceilings. In my old garage I mounted mine to back wall of the garage far enough for the garage door to clear. In my newer garage I mounted it right between the two doors right over the tablesaw. Essentially want it to scrub the air at least 6 times an hour I think is the standard.

I tried looking for a photo on Google for a location reference but came up empty handed. I probably read about it in a woodworking mag. Also if you want to go down the Dust collection rabbit hole. Phil Thien.

My first garage I had it near the wall and above the miter saw station.

44482648060_85b59550fe_b.jpgDSCN6270 by bjohnson388, on Flickr

Here it is in the new shop. Its not against a wall but I do have the intake right above the tablesaw and I have the vent aimed back over to the woodshop side.

52034618641_d237181d77_b.jpg20220427_173416 by bjohnson388, on Flickr

As far as the vice mounted on the bench. Have you thought about mounting the vise onto a base and then you can position it to were it hangs off the bench in orientation you want and you don't have to worry about where the vise mounting holes line up you can mount the base to the bench. If you used to pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together and then carriage bolts through the bottom to mount the vise to the base. Its a thought I had when you first mentioned the orientation. I didn't say anything because it seemed like you were going to leave for the time being.

Hope some of that makes sense and is helpful.

Keep making progress enjoying your thread.

Bret

Hey Bret, thanks for the response and all the thoughts, I appreciate the input!

Good to know about putting the filter near a wall, I'll have to keep that in mind. Since it can't really be centralized for clearance reasons. I think what will probably end up happening is I'll mount it within five feet of the man door, roughly centered. I'm still kicking around ideas as to where to mount it or how to run the power. I'm sure I'll make it more complicated than it needs to be.

As far as dust collection goes, I don't think I'll go too far down that particular rabbit hole haha! I don't do enough woodworking, nor do I have the tools like a miter saw or table saw to really justify the added expense and space. I do want to go an extra step though and add a Dust Deputy to my shop vac, which has actually been doing an admirable job in it's own so far. A longer, more flexible hose and a Dust Deputy should serve me pretty well I think, unless I go nuts on woodworking. Never say never I suppose.

For the vise, I actually did consider going that route and mounting the vise to a base. It would let me be a bit more precise with mounting and it would cover the ugliness of the sanding. I may go that way when I rebuild the primary workbench top. I'll be thinking through that for a while, trying to improve the design and make it all fit together better. The next bench will be a little better designed and a little better made. It's iterative, like building anything. The more things you make, the better you are at making things.

Thanks for tagging along, nice to have you for the ride!
 

nicholam77

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2016
Messages
2,655
Location
Minneapolis, MN
I have that WEN unit. It seems to work ok. At least the filter gets dirty so it must be doing something. :ROFLMAO:

IMG-6691.jpg

Your flush mounting method is slick.

I agree with Bret, it works best near and pointed at the dust source. I have mine located above where the table saw goes, because that's where I get the most fine dust. But if you don't have a central tool like that then I think off to the side makes sense for circulation. I guess I basically parroted what Bret said, so I'll add... it will clean the shop air over time but don't expect it to instantaneously make the dust go away or anything, especially if it's not near the source. You'll need a vacuum + dust mask to complement.

Since safety has been brought up before in this thread, I'd highly recommend using dust collection (vacuum) and wearing a mask, especially in an enclosed space with materials like plywood or MDF. Dust Deputy is a great buy.

Never seen a track saw used like that before with the vice, but I like it!!
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
I have that WEN unit. It seems to work ok. At least the filter gets dirty so it must be doing something. :ROFLMAO:

IMG-6691.jpg

Your flush mounting method is slick.

I agree with Bret, it works best near and pointed at the dust source. I have mine located above where the table saw goes, because that's where I get the most fine dust. But if you don't have a central tool like that then I think off to the side makes sense for circulation. I guess I basically parroted what Bret said, so I'll add... it will clean the shop air over time but don't expect it to instantaneously make the dust go away or anything, especially if it's not near the source. You'll need a vacuum + dust mask to complement.

Since safety has been brought up before in this thread, I'd highly recommend using dust collection (vacuum) and wearing a mask, especially in an enclosed space with materials like plywood or MDF. Dust Deputy is a great buy.

Never seen a track saw used like that before with the vice, but I like it!!

Ha! Good to know it at least does something. I go back and forth on where to put it, but the most likely candidate is in front of the man door, or maybe closer to above the main workbench. I'll toy with it and see what makes sense, especially considering the overhead cabinets are going to be in the bench area. I'd hate for the filter to be in the way of the doors. Keeping it closer to the center of the building makes the most sense. I think.

I do try to be diligent about wearing my respirator or a dust mask when I'm working out there, especially with the doors closed. During the summer I tend to work with the doors open for a breeze and to keep the air cleaner, but I'll still be wearing the protection. I need a lighter dust mask for wood work vs. my respirator. It works well of course, but it pinches my nose after a while. Any good recommendations?

My plan for dust collection includes the following:



I keep finding new uses for that track saw. Based on the amount I've ended up using it, I'll probably upgrade to the Makita sooner than later. The Wen tracks work with it so I'd just need the saw. Keeping my eyes peeled for a deal on that.
 

nicholam77

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2016
Messages
2,655
Location
Minneapolis, MN
As far as dust masks I use and like this one. It's lightweight and comfortable and great seal. I wear glasses so that was super important to me to not have fogging. Easy to take on and off between tasks.

I know these RZ masks are popular but I've never tried one.

I've only heard good things about Dust Deputy.

As far as hoses, nothing wrong with the Centec but here is another one to consider if you haven't come across it, the Bosch VAC005. It's on sale right now and I'm almost thinking of picking up another one. Maybe it's not long enough for you, but the larger end fits standard shop vac 2 1/4" inlet, and the tool end is flexible rubber. Mine fits all of my small power tools by either fitting over or inside of the dust port with friction. Maybe I just got lucky, although Bosch does sell a few adapters for it, too.

Track saws can be super useful for all kinds of things! I doubt you would regret getting the Makita. Maybe keep an eye on CPO outlets refurbished, or sign up for their email notifications. I think Ryan (founder of Garage Journal) picked one up there for $220 saw only. I've occasionally seen refurbs on eBay for good prices, too.

The Wen uses the same tracks? If so you could also look at the Powertec tracks, they seem like a good value and are longer and don't require connectors.

Keep at it, things are looking great! I've had a Chinese vice (Yost) sitting on my bench for 5 years because I'm too scared to drill permanent holes in the butcher block top. :ROFLMAO: Good for you for making the necessary sacrifices to get yours functional.

🍻
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
As far as dust masks I use and like this one. It's lightweight and comfortable and great seal. I wear glasses so that was super important to me to not have fogging. Easy to take on and off between tasks.

I know these RZ masks are popular but I've never tried one.

I've only heard good things about Dust Deputy.

As far as hoses, nothing wrong with the Centec but here is another one to consider if you haven't come across it, the Bosch VAC005. It's on sale right now and I'm almost thinking of picking up another one. Maybe it's not long enough for you, but the larger end fits standard shop vac 2 1/4" inlet, and the tool end is flexible rubber. Mine fits all of my small power tools by either fitting over or inside of the dust port with friction. Maybe I just got lucky, although Bosch does sell a few adapters for it, too.

Track saws can be super useful for all kinds of things! I doubt you would regret getting the Makita. Maybe keep an eye on CPO outlets refurbished, or sign up for their email notifications. I think Ryan (founder of Garage Journal) picked one up there for $220 saw only. I've occasionally seen refurbs on eBay for good prices, too.

The Wen uses the same tracks? If so you could also look at the Powertec tracks, they seem like a good value and are longer and don't require connectors.

Keep at it, things are looking great! I've had a Chinese vice (Yost) sitting on my bench for 5 years because I'm too scared to drill permanent holes in the butcher block top. :ROFLMAO: Good for you for making the necessary sacrifices to get yours functional.

🍻
Great recommendations on the mask. I was thinking of the RZ masks, but couldn't remember them for whatever reason. I'll probably pick one of those up. Never a bad thing to have a few different levels of protection.

Thanks for the heads-up on the Bosch hose! I'll have to look into that one. I have a few different tools with different size dust ports, so my thought was having the different adapters would be handy. And the 20ft hose would reach just about anywhere in my shop without having to relocate the vacuum. More cumbersome to store though. I might have to consider the Bosch. Going to need to go measure all my dust ports now...

Great tip on CPO, just got my email on the list. $220 would be a screamin' deal. I check around on eBay occasionally too, but haven't come up with much yet. I'll probably want to go to the Makita before I start building the cabinets in the workshop.

Yep, the Wen are the same tracks. They've actually worked really well for me, it surprises me that people think so poorly of them. My plan is a slow upgrade. I'll start with the saw itself and then probably pick up Powertec tracks further down the road. The Wen ones are pretty great for how much I have invested in them to be honest. No slop and they line up well.

Thanks! It's coming along. Never as fast as I'd like of course, but such is life. I use and beat on a vise enough that come hell or high water, it needs to be mounted haha! Drill into that butcher block, that's what you have a workbench for! :lol:
 

wasfast

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2014
Messages
874
Location
San Diego CA
I also have a GVS mask. The downside I've found is sweating like crazy in it. The seal, comfort and fit are good. The RZ look interesting, I'm going to get one to try.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Guys!

The wall is done!

I busted my **** to get things finished off by this weekend. A good friend of mine needed some work done on his truck, and was coming in from out of town to have me do it for him. I wanted to have the use of air tools to work on it, which meant I really wanted the hose reel up. That meant I needed to finish the wall. So when he arrived I enlisted his help. I had him stain the remainder of the paneling while I went to work sanding the last few pieces and getting the rest on the wall. It went a lot faster thanks to his gracious participation. It took us a few hours, but before I knew it the wall was finished!

52045672979_e37f315a3c_b.jpg

The next step was getting the hose reel up. If you remember, I bought a 50-foot HF hose reel back in October. I've also been slowly gathering parts for the air system, including a filter, leader hoses, and fittings. You'll see in the previous photo I got a little over-exuberant and put up the reel prior to taking the photo. Whoops.

The reel is located just about dead-center of the building and as tight to the ceiling as I dared go. This gives me a lot of flexibility in using it. I can even use it outside the building if I need to.

52045419256_5372424999_b.jpg

52045419266_2af08c960f_b.jpg

With the reel mounted, I could get to work on the plumbing from the compressor to the reel. I wanted this setup to be simple, robust, and have the smallest number of connections that I could reasonably make. My original plan was to start on the north wall, run about 18 inches, make a 90-degree turn to the east wall, another 90 up from there to the ceiling, the another 90 along the east wall to the filter, then to the hose reel. Unfortunately, my measurements were off. I didn't have enough piping to miss my future cabinets if I had any pipe along the north wall. So instead I cut that section out and moved the whole assembly tighter to the bench. Now I have plenty of clearance around the future cabinets.

Relocating the vise has already come in handy!

52044376842_4a66aa372b_b.jpg

I started with a ball valve and 1/4" NPT adapter for my leader hose, then made the necessary turns to get it above the bench. I went with 1/2" black iron pipe because it's inexpensive, durable, and will help cool the air before the filter. It also fits the aesthetic I'm aiming for. I got all of the pieces from pipe-decor.com, which is quite a bit cheaper than getting parts from the local Lowe's or Home Depot, and it's a little nicer quality too. Still fully capable of handling the pressure as well. The only downside is the longest stretch you can buy from them is 72 inches, so I had to use a coupler to get the necessary extra length to reach the reel.

The entire thing was assembled on the bench prior to hanging it on the wall, then we lined it up and used 1/2" conduit clamps to secure it to the wall. The clamps worked really well, but I do need some larger ones to secure the ball valve and the filter. Once the assembly was on the wall, I attached the leader hose to the filter and ran it to the hose reel.

52044376432_d40c7e57e7_b.jpg

52045470443_8803f42832_b.jpg

With that done, I added the new fittings at either end. I went with @Stedlin for these, and I'm so glad I did! Excellent quality and hooking/unhooking tools is a breeze! Plus the Quietplug male fittings really cut down on that big **** when you disconnect a tool. They're a minor things that make a really big difference.

52045669804_9537c6cbb8_b.jpg

I hooked up the compressor and opened the bell valve, and what do you know! No leaks! Huzzah!

52045416116_c1b212c92d_b.jpg

Now that all that was done, we cleaned the shop thoroughly. All the tools were put away, the floor was swept and vacuumed, and the new air hose helped clear the dust off everything. What a difference this all made. I really think that the overall feel of the workshop is starting to come together now how I imagined it would be. Plenty more to do, but It's definitely coming together.

52045415681_268701171f_b.jpg

Anyway, enough admiring! Let's get to work!

Here is our weekend project, a 2nd generation Nissan Frontier 4x4. My friend bought this truck on my recommendation about a year ago.

52045414866_40edca49b4_b.jpg

WARNING: DERAILMENT

As some background, I owned a 2005 Frontier for just about six years and did an extensive amount of work on/to it. Suspension, bumper, lighting, winch, onboard air compressor, storage, the lot. I built my first auxiliary electrical system on this truck. I did plenty of repairs and upgrades, getting very familiar with the platform. We also took it to a lot of really amazing places.

14350760963_0fffb1cfc6_b.jpg

14405999199_51e2815208_b.jpg

21399879924_39e72a3a3a_b.jpg

35178420101_b5925bda80_b.jpg

45410304141_0b1f43955c_b.jpg

43593681030_7a03797747_b.jpg

Fun little trip down memory lane.

Anyway, with all my experience on the truck I offered to do the necessary work. It needed new ball joints, and the shocks were badly worn. To replace the ball joints, he opted to just replace all four control arms, as the bushings were likely past it and replacing the control arms is actually simpler than doing ball joints. That's the theory anyway...

Since that work was getting done anyway and he wanted a little more ground clearance for our hunting trips, I suggested replacing the suspension with an Old Man Emu kit, which would raise the truck about 1.5", allow for heavier loads, and improve the ride. He got the parts and drove in from Helena, about four hours away, on Friday night after work.

We got going on Saturday morning by finishing the shop wall (thanks Graham!), then pulled the truck in and were able to start work on it after lunch. What I did not remember was that despite the low mileage, Graham's truck is rusty. It came out of Ontario, Canada, and after 70k miles of that environment, it was a little worse for wear. As such, what I thought was going to be a long afternoon project ended up becoming a two-day ordeal.

Here's a good indicator of how the weekend went:

52044371817_74c3c2446f_b.jpg

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

We started by getting the front jacked up and on stands. From there, we removed the wheels and started in on removing the shock/spring assembly. From there, we could swap each control arm, swap over the old shock hardware, then reassemble and realign. Then we could move on to the rear.

The front shock assembly is held in by four fasteners. Three 14mm nuts at the top and one 19mm bolt/nut combo on the bottom. I went after the top nuts first and was shocked (buh-dum-tss) by the effort required to remove them. They're torqued to 58 ft-lbs, but I was struggling to remove them at all with my 18-inch ratchet. Some penetrating oil and heat helped, but they were still an absolute bear to remove. Once I had the top nuts taken off, I shifted to the bottom of the shock. The 19mm bolt is somewhat famous for being a pain to remove, but this was something else. I ended up shearing off that 3/8 extension on it. I tried a 1/2 ratchet. Nope. Penetrating oil. Nope. Fire. Nope.

Okay, new plan.

We stopped off at Harbor Freight so I could get a 24-inch breaker bar, then over to Ace to get a 6-point socket as the nut was trying to round off. Again, fire! Nope. Penetrating oil! Nope. Smack it with a hammer! Nope. Impact! Nope. Big breaker bar! Nope.

Damn.

This wouldn't be such a big issue, but the lower bolts cannot be destroyed. They have a shoulder on them that eliminates the play between the bushing and bolt, so a regular hardware store replacement isn't a great option. It will allow just enough slop for the suspension to make noise and behave strangely, as all that weight of the front end is on those two bolts.

We switched gears to think about the problem, and Graham worked on removing the two large bolts holding the lower control arm to the frame while I worked on freeing the lower ball joint to detach the control arm from the spindle. During this process, I discovered the lower ball joint could not be removed from the spindle unless the CV shaft was removed, so we had to also pop the upper ball joint and suspend the spindle with a bungee cord.

52045413361_0e01c7836c_b.jpg

Right. With the CV out of the way, I attempted to finally remove the lower shock bolt. No joy after several minutes of heaving, swearing, and shouting. We decided that the only real way forward was to drop the LCA with the shock attached and try to remove the bolt while it was on the bench. Great, two minutes later I freed the lower ball joint. Now all that's left is to pop the LCA frame bolts out and pull the arm out.

Problem: the LCA bolts were seized. Stuck. Affixed. Rust-welded. The rust had caused the bolts to essentially bond to the inner sleeve of the bushings, meaning we could not remove them. And thus could not remove the control arms. Awesome. The good news here is that we have replacement LCA bolts. Since the truck was being lifted, we had alignment bolts that needed to go in, so the old ones didn't need to be reused, and we weren't reusing the LCAs. So we did the only sensible thing we could do.

We broke out the sawzall. But not before making a run to Ace Hardware to pick up one of these nasty SOBs.

52045412606_4dff7a5591_b.jpg

This was one of the more unpleasant tasks I've had to do on a vehicle, but we made it happen and by the end of the night, we had this on the bench.

52045465488_33d3f0f831_b.jpg

You can see in this photo the stack of payment I received for this job. That, and a bottle of Woodford Reserve.

By the end of day 1, I was joking with Graham that it may not have been sufficient.

To be continued...
 
Last edited:
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
The wall turned out great Tom!

Looks like you had your old Frontier all dialed in...sharp, even if it is a Nissan ;)
Thanks Marc! I'm really liking the look of the wall. It was a ton of work but I'm glad I did it. It looks nice and it's unique. Plus I have zero concerns about mounting anything, anywhere. It's mostly 1/2" thick pallet wood atop OSB.

Haha man that Frontier was great. The 4.0L in them is a sweet engine, just not very fuel efficient. Everything else is pretty much rock-solid. That truck went to some great places with very little trouble. It went through a lot of iterations in suspension, electrics, loadout, storage, etc. But the family got too big and the truck had 208k on it when I sold it, so it was time for something else.

Still waiting for that something else... :lol_hitti
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Tom,

Reminds me of an old Outback we bought used that came from the NorthEast. Everytime I worked on it, you could depend on something breaking.....
Man, I feel so bad for the guys working on stuff from the NE or midwest. I couldn't do it. I couldn't fight with that stuff so much all the time. I'd come up with a new hobby haha!
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
So here is the offending ******* of a nut and bolt combo, sitting on the bench on day 2.

52045666799_745b17ec55_b.jpg

I made a few more attempts at removal on the bench. Heat, penetrating oil, impacts, big breaker bar. Zero movement at all. Remember, the front lower shock bolts are somewhat unique, so I tried as hard as possible to actually remove the bolt. Unfortunately, it just wasn't meant to be. I gave Graham a part number and told him to order a couple of lower shock bolts when he got a chance because we wouldn't be able to reuse the bolts. We'd have to use hardware store replacements for him to get home.

So, with that decided and tired of flopping a shock/LCA combo around on the bench, I decided to chop the lower shock eye off. Out came the sawzall again, and suddenly we had two pieces. Great! Now I had to rescue the upper shock hardware to reuse it, including the upper rubbers and top hat with studs. The top hats actually looked okay, I just needed to clean them up a bit and tap the threads on the studs to clean them up. The rubber parts were dirty but still flexible with no cracks, so I was comfortable that we went that route. Now the fun part was pulling the top hardware off.

The actual process of removal is fairly simple: compress the spring, remove the top nut that holds the shock together, and remove the top hat and rubber mounts. But once again, the rust was putting up a heavyweight title-level fight. With the spring compressed and the whole assembly clamped in the vise, I took one look at the nut and knew there was no way I was going to break it loose. Instead of fighting with it, I broke out the grinder and chopped the top shaft off with the nut attached. Then the top hat and rubber mounts... didn't move. At all. A liberal application of my Bernz-o-matic and ballpein hammer helped break the bond, and eventually I was able to get everything pulled apart and cleaned up properly.

To clean everything up, I dragged out my bench grinder, which I am planning to replace, and clamped it to the bench. Using the wire wheel, I was able to get all the hardware and parts cleaned of rust, then taken over to be painted. I tapped or chased all of the necessary threads to make things easier on us, and started assembling the new shock/spring combo.

52045663159_a8e3fdee2e_b.jpg

52045916180_efa59123a5_b.jpg

Assembly is easy, especially since it's not all completely rusted solid. The most important thing is to make sure the upper mounts and lower shock eye are in the correct orientation to each other. We got that one together quickly and it was time to move on. While the paint was drying on the remaining parts for reassembly, we worked on pulling off the upper control arm.

The UCA is just two bolts and a ball joint, but unfortunately Nissan gives you a little surprise on the driver's side. The rearmost frame bolt cannot be removed because it runs into the steering shaft. The only way to remove the bolt is to disconnect the steering shaft and move it out of the way, then you can wiggle the bolt out. Well, naturally the bolt on the steering shaft would not budge. After ten minutes of fighting with it, the sawzall made another appearance the the control arm bolt was severed. The good news is this bolt is just a standard M14X1.50, so sourcing a replacement would be no problem.

At that, we went to get lunch and made a run to Ace for the replacement hardware. While on the hardware store run, I found a little hack for that pesky lower shock bolt. Turns out the rear lower shock bolts are identical, but there are no negative effects from running a standard bolt in that location as they don't bear the load like the front suspension does. Brilliant!

Upon our return, we got the new upper control arms reinstalled, the lowers hanging in their mounts via the new eccentric alignment bolts, and the ball joints reattached before securing the new spring and shock combo in it's new home.

52045921575_a94be4ccf4_b.jpg

I stole the lower bolt off the rear shock and replaced it with the brand new M14 from Ace, then reassembled the front and started torqueing everything down to spec, leaving the alignment bolts finger-tight. While I was doing that, Graham was on the other side already chopping through the lower control arm bolts.

52045920245_dbc0d4d818_b.jpg

By the time he had that done, I had swapped out the rear shocks and thus the pile of garbage parts was complete.

52044365702_3c673aa739_b.jpg

52044366122_62f62aeca8_b.jpg

By this point it was about 3pm, and it was determined that we wouldn't have the time to address the rear spring add-a-leaf on either side, so the rear lift wouldn't get completed. Luckily the front suspension was really only going to add about 1.5" in ride height, so the difference would be pretty minor and the rear suspension could be tackled later with no deleterious effects.

Graham had managed to remove the shock and LCA from the passenger's side, so we got it clamped in the vise to cut the lower shock eye off. Once again Mr. Sawzall made an appearance and we started cutting. Well, apparently I didn't get it lined up very well because after a few seconds there was a hiss and a small spray of oil. I had accidentally cut into the shock. Oops.

52045916085_27da1c7296_b.jpg

No matter, the clock was ticking. I clamped the shock in the vise and set about trying to cut off the nut holding the spring and shock together. I made it about halfway through before realizing I hadn't compressed the spring! What a great road to facial reconstruction surgery!

Timidly, I grabbed the spring compressor and set about squeezing the spring, being careful not to get my face anywhere near the top hat.

With it somewhat safe, I finished cutting through the mounting nut and guess what! The goddamn thing wouldn't come apart. I smacked it with a hammer, applied heat, everything I could think of. Finally, I decided to gamble a bit. I backed off the spring compressor until the spring was placing tension on the top hat, then stood arms length away and tapped at it with a hammer. Nothing. Okay, a little more spring tension. Nothing. A little more...

THWANG!

After three hammer taps, the top hat and all associated hardware jumped a foot off the spring, then landed on the bench with a thunk.

Alright, sketchy but it worked.

Back to reassembly. Working together, we got the control arms replaced and the coilover assembly put in place, then tightened everything to spec, including the rear shock. Finally, everything was back together. The final step was doing a quick and dirty alignment to he could make the drive home.

With the tires back on and the wheel facing ahead, we drove the truck back six feet, then forward again to get the tires fully on the floor. We ran a string from the front to the rear on each, ensuring the string was touching the front and back of each tire. This gave us a rough starting point to make sure the toe wasn't crazy out. Luckily, this didn't need to be adjusted at all, so we moved on to adjust the camber. Using a level, I adjusted the eccentric bolts until the tires were close to dead level, but each was a tiny bit leaned inward at the top to prevent wandering. Then we torqued everything down and cleaned up. The end result looked pretty good.

52045915585_28f7e99e1a_b.jpg

Poor Graham finally departed my house for the 4-hour trek back to his home in Helena at 9:15 PM. I checked in with him yesterday, and he said the new ride was fantastic and it drove straight as an arrow, albeit with the wheel about 20 degrees off. He's getting an alignment this week.

Overall, an exhausting weekend that really tested my skills and tool set in the workshop. We came out on top though and got it done, despite the absolute mess that the project became.

Once again it must be repeated: I HATE RUST.
 

gearhead1960

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
1,821
Location
Manassas, VA, a small blot in history
Man, I feel so bad for the guys working on stuff from the NE or midwest. I couldn't do it. I couldn't fight with that stuff so much all the time. I'd come up with a new hobby haha!
That Nissan looks by far worse than the OB ever looked. Of course the head gaskets went (one of those engines) and the car was unceremoniously dumped.....
 

XJSuperman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
3,087
Location
Central Iowa
Good job getting it to a point where your buddy could make it home. I've gotten into that situation more than once myself. I did get a chuckle at that little bolt getting the best of you though. Sorry.
 

jollygreengiant

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
2,359
Location
Ontario, Canada
It's funny how people's experiences differ depending on where you live. As I was reading through your ordeal, with every new problem you encountered I was thinking to myself "yep, that sounds right". I guess living in the salt belt of Southern Ontario all my life has made me used to anything automotive being much more painful than it is in non-rusty areas.

If you're going to be doing much more work on rusty vehicles, I highly suggest a air hammer/chisel. Very helpful in freeing up stuck stuff.
 

jbmatth

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
5,682
Location
Northern Ok.
Be ready to repeat this on the leaf springs, the bolts will rust weld to the metal sleeve in the bushings, you may be time/money ahead to have new bolts on hand and at the first sign of a fight just cut them off. Luckily I only have similar happen about 5% of the time when I get into the stuff I work on, but that 5% of bolts will take 90% of the time.

If you do the rear springs while I'm still in town I can pop over for a few hours to distract ya'll with a cold drink and stories of similar fights.

JB
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
That Nissan looks by far worse than the OB ever looked. Of course the head gaskets went (one of those engines) and the car was unceremoniously dumped.....
This one was pretty crusty, one of the worst I've worked on for sure. So much fighting.

Good job getting it to a point where your buddy could make it home. I've gotten into that situation more than once myself. I did get a chuckle at that little bolt getting the best of you though. Sorry.
Ha! No apologies necessary, it's already more of a funny story than anything. I feel very lucky that my bag of rusty bolt removal tricks is not very large. I tip my hat to guys like you that are fighting with everything and still pursue the hobby. That's more drive than I could muster on a lot of days I'm afraid.

Thee beer and bonding made the whole ordeal fun though. That being said, since Graham and I hunt together a lot, our friendship is kind of made out of miserable situations. :lol:

It's funny how people's experiences differ depending on where you live. As I was reading through your ordeal, with every new problem you encountered I was thinking to myself "yep, that sounds right". I guess living in the salt belt of Southern Ontario all my life has made me used to anything automotive being much more painful than it is in non-rusty areas.

If you're going to be doing much more work on rusty vehicles, I highly suggest a air hammer/chisel. Very helpful in freeing up stuck stuff.
Jolly, like I said to XJ, you rust belt guys are heroes.

Matter of fact, I do own an air hammer. I tried using it to get the LCA bolts unstuck, but they wouldn't budge. Even hitting them with a 4lb sledge had no effect. I was digging deep into my bag of tricks on this project. Unfortunately that bag isn't very extensive where rust is involved.

Me and the guy at the counter at my local Fastenal are on a first name basis after I went through the suspension refresh on my Audi that came from MN/IL area.
Ha! I feel that. I had to buy more than my fair share of hardware while going through everything under my Land Cruiser. That one tested me a lot too. Still is.

Be ready to repeat this on the leaf springs, the bolts will rust weld to the metal sleeve in the bushings, you may be time/money ahead to have new bolts on hand and at the first sign of a fight just cut them off. Luckily I only have similar happen about 5% of the time when I get into the stuff I work on, but that 5% of bolts will take 90% of the time.

If you do the rear springs while I'm still in town I can pop over for a few hours to distract ya'll with a cold drink and stories of similar fights.

JB
Luckily with the add-a-leafs I don't actually need to pull the leaf pack off the frame. The u-bolts need to get removed, then the spring pin is cut/removed. Slide in the new leaf, tighten the new pin (which is a bolt), then put on new u-bolts. Pretty easy job. Weirdly, the rear suspension fasteners on this thing are a lot cleaner than the front, so I don't foresee any big problems.
There's no way I'm right about that, but that's part of the fun. :lol_hitti

I'll let you know when we put that on the calendar! Sounds like a good time.
 

jbmatth

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
5,682
Location
Northern Ok.
Luckily with the add-a-leafs I don't actually need to pull the leaf pack off the frame. The u-bolts need to get removed, then the spring pin is cut/removed. Slide in the new leaf, tighten the new pin (which is a bolt), then put on new u-bolts. Pretty easy job. Weirdly, the rear suspension fasteners on this thing are a lot cleaner than the front, so I don't foresee any big problems.
There's no way I'm right about that, but that's part of the fun. :lol_hitti

I'll let you know when we put that on the calendar! Sounds like a good time.
I should have known that, I've installed a few, but had failed bushings on one and was thinking of that situation rather than the others were I left them on the truck. Oh well, I haven't wrenched on a vehicle/project in over a month, I must be loosing my touch. If ya'll tackle them give me a shout, I'll stop by, if you are done even better. :)

JB
 

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,705
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
Pro tip:

Double switches cannot control two separate circuits. The power feed is linked. Doing so causes a loud popping noise in your circuit breaker panel.

More on that later...
Tom, you're sorta right. I have some old double switches that have a common bus on one side and it can't be separated. I also have some newer Leviton 5634 double switches and they have an easily removed break-off fin that makes it a fully independent two-circuit switch. First time I installed one I removed the fin and couldn't figure out why the second light didn't work. I used one of those switches to control two separate circuits in the same box and put a note inside the box to let the next person know they had to turn off two circuit breakers in the main panel.
Two CircuitSwitch.jpg
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Tom, you're sorta right. I have some old double switches that have a common bus on one side and it can't be separated. I also have some newer Leviton 5634 double switches and they have an easily removed break-off fin that makes it a fully independent two-circuit switch. First time I installed one I removed the fin and couldn't figure out why the second light didn't work. I used one of those switches to control two separate circuits in the same box and put a note inside the box to let the next person know they had to turn off two circuit breakers in the main panel.
Two CircuitSwitch.jpg
Bob,

That's great to know! I'll have to give that a try. Keeping my switch box small would be ideal.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom