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tool box lift kit???

sj6zero9

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Jun 6, 2012
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new jersey
I'm not sure if this post is in the right place but here it goes. Has anyone ever lifted their tool box a few inches? I have a classic 78 with a hutch and i am constantly hitting my head on it and I am fed up. I looked into getting bigger casters but from the looks of it i'm limited by the caster plate size and i don't really want to start drilling a bunch of holes in my tool boxes. Stock caster size is is a 6" wheel with an overall height of 7 1/2". I found 8" casters with an overall height of 9 1/4" ish. I want to be about 4-6" taller. And before all the obvious comments come about just buying a bigger box, I don't want to do that. Im looking for suggestions on how to go about lifting it the rest of the way.
 

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LXCam

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Make some pads for between the caster and box. Shim it to the height you want. They make bar stock aluminum in all kinds on thicknesses.
 

Dmoen

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I have same.issues. mine will be going up on a Couple pieces of 6x6. Why doesn't snap on.make the hutch taller? I can.rest my head against the door. I will be getting another 1022 to put right next to this one if I can't get a good deal on a mrbig.

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sj6zero9

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My only concern is that if i make the shims will it compromise the stability of it? I know building the frame is an option but I would also like the added storage for under the box. I made the mistake of buying a classic 78 when i should have got a krl1022 or something of that nature. If i didn't scoop the other classic 78 up for so cheap i would upgrade but I would rather spend the money on tools instead.
 

ZRX61

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Simple:
4x4 or 6x6 1/4in wall steel tube. Cut them as long as the box is deep.
Drill holes in one side to mount the casters & holes in the other side to bolt it to the original caster mounting holes.
 
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sj6zero9

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I was thinking about making something like this but again I'm concerned with stability.
 

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bobabuee

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go with square 3" steel tubing make 2 u shape & box the ends of tube to give you more strength leaving front open weld casters if want more height buy higher casters.
 

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bobabuee

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snapon boxes are made very well I have 3 bank box do box tube might have 70 bucks into tubing for it weld it up I would think you have welder?
 
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sj6zero9

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Problem is I don't want to weld to the box. I want to use the existing holes. I don't want this to be a permanent fixture as I will probably someday upgrade and sell this. I like the u shaped frame but I would need open ends so I can access the bolts.

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sj6zero9

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I'll draw up what I have in mind and you all tell me what you think

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Nexussian

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I used plates as adapters and spacers on a smaller box.

I don't remember if it was 1/2" or 1" plate, I used steel (cheapest I could find, I used rems from a fab shop).

I cut each plate to slightly larger than the mount on the new, larger, caster.

I made the outboard corner hole common, the bolt goes through the caster, plate and threads into the frame of the box.

I countersunk the other three mount holes (old, smaller caster bolt pattern) and drilled and tapped the plate for the other three bolts (new, larger caster bolt pattern).

I figured if the new bolt holes overlapped the countersunk heads of the old bolt pattern, I had bought too small of new casters. ;)

It was an older Craftsman cabinet (late '80s) with one bank of drawers, not near as heavy, as yours.

It was however much less stable, I had to reorganize my tools to have more and heavier tools to the bottom drawers.

Might not be an issue with yours, as your box has a much broader footprint, but is something you should be aware of.

Best of luck. :)
 

bobabuee

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no welding to boxes just frame you will build some tabs to bolt to boxes that's it . dont make harder than it is....
 
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sj6zero9

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But if build a frame where Wil the tabs go to bolt the box to it? Remember I don't want to drill any new holes in the box.

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Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
But if build a frame where Wil the tabs go to bolt the box to it? Remember I don't want to drill any new holes in the box.

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:dunno:Put the tabs to line up with some of the holes your current casters attach to.
With a frame 2 bolts at each current caster location should be fine.
 
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sj6zero9

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This is what I'm thinking of. I understand I'm over engineering this but I want it to be strong and durable. uploadfromtaptalk1445611047511.jpg

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rsanter

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Weld up a big C shaped frame that will leave the front open.
Bolt all the way through to where the original caster mounting points are.
You can then shove stuff under the box for storage or install a couple of drawers.
If you wanted to you could even add a piece of sheetmetal to the bottom of the frame and make a shelf at the bottom so anything you put under there goes with you when you move the box

Bob
 
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sj6zero9

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Wouldn't long bolts create a weak link in the design. They're only 5/16 bolts

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dynahoe

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why not 2 8x10 pieces of hemlock, remove your wheels and place these front to rear on each end. solid and wont tip, still have room for a creeper underneath
 
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sj6zero9

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Can't be a permanent fixture in the shop because from time to time we move the tool boxes out.

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nes999

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Wouldn't long bolts create a weak link in the design. They're only 5/16 bolts

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He could get some grade 8 bolts for fairly cheap.

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NUTTSGT

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This was my step-dad's box he used as an electrician. Granted it's a Cman box but you can see the frame he built for it to sit in. He also had some under cart storage for some longer items.





 

Steevo

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Sooo, is this a market?
Would "lift kits" for the major Snap-On boxes be a "thang"?

It seems like a simple Aluminum block or extrusion with long bolts would allow an owner to use the stock wheels, and get added height.

How much would an owner pay for a set of four "lift blocks with bolts"?
 

Kurt4440

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I have the same problem with the Mac box and hutch I have at home. This winter I am going to build a 7" tall intermediate unit to go between the chest and hutch.
 
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sj6zero9

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I really think there could some kind of market but not big enough to mass produce. I would think it would be a build to order thing seeing as not everyone has the same height requirements.

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taumac

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Simple:
4x4 or 6x6 1/4in wall steel tube. Cut them as long as the box is deep.
Drill holes in one side to mount the casters & holes in the other side to bolt it to the original caster mounting holes.


+1.

I think this is the easiest and simplistic way to do it without any modification to box or original casters.
 
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ZRX61

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But if build a frame where Wil the tabs go to bolt the box to it? Remember I don't want to drill any new holes in the box.

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I thought I explained it clearly & no need to weld the ends of the tube closed. I don't see what the issue is? ;)
 

LS6 Tommy

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Since you can't stand the poorly designed POS, the obvious solution is to give the whole setup to me and start over...:lol_hitti

Tommy
 

Keel

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just build a 6x6 base for it to roll onto..
6x8x12 blocks, under it.. no fab.. no nothing..
 

NUTTSGT

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Sooo, is this a market?
Would "lift kits" for the major Snap-On boxes be a "thang"?

It seems like a simple Aluminum block or extrusion with long bolts would allow an owner to use the stock wheels, and get added height.

How much would an owner pay for a set of four "lift blocks with bolts"?

Inside Steevo's head . . ..






This guy is going to market tool box lift kits as a retirement job and probably make a small fortune. :thumbup:
 
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