tool box work top
- Thread starter Blackbyrd
- Start date
yeah I have one of those rubber fender covers on one section of it currently, but I have a stainless table next to it and thats where I got the idea, but I just assumed it would be as simple as swapping out the wood top for the stainless one you see on some of the other boxes they offer. Just not the case
I didnt think about most people having topper boxes anyway
I didnt think about most people having topper boxes anyway
I find stainless costly and not nice surface, nice bit of steel plate surface treated is great long term hard working top
rubber matt, tempered hardboard or ply work out sensible cost and non marring .
On boxes I use rubber mainly over 2 layers of 3/4 ply and edge trimmed so creates recess for rubber .
rubber easily removed for cleaning or replaced when too scruffy .
If it going be a do it all type work area then perhaps get steel shop cut you some steel plate to your sizes and do front and rear edge folds if needed .
rubber matt, tempered hardboard or ply work out sensible cost and non marring .
On boxes I use rubber mainly over 2 layers of 3/4 ply and edge trimmed so creates recess for rubber .
rubber easily removed for cleaning or replaced when too scruffy .
If it going be a do it all type work area then perhaps get steel shop cut you some steel plate to your sizes and do front and rear edge folds if needed .
+1 for Steel over Stainless, It's cheaper and IMO a much better work surface than the thin SS skins they sell to cover wood tops.
I waited for the local steel shop to have some material close to the dimensions I needed, then had them cut it down to size. It's 1/8" thick mild steel (probably cold rolled since it was shiny when I got it) I countersunk some holes and bolted it through the wooden top with flat head allens on my Proto roll cab. I was afraid it was going to rust at first, but even in the hot/humid box factory that I worked at the time in St. Louis MO I never had any issues with rust.
I waited for the local steel shop to have some material close to the dimensions I needed, then had them cut it down to size. It's 1/8" thick mild steel (probably cold rolled since it was shiny when I got it) I countersunk some holes and bolted it through the wooden top with flat head allens on my Proto roll cab. I was afraid it was going to rust at first, but even in the hot/humid box factory that I worked at the time in St. Louis MO I never had any issues with rust.
Jersey Drew
Well-known member
I have a stainless top on my tool box and it works just fine. You want an indestructible surface. Any metal over wood base then bedliner.
yeah I have several stainless work tops already in the garage this more of my OCD wanting it to match. I do mostly light mechanic stuff, but the worst they may ever see is a set of heads setting on it? id thought about getting some 18 guage and using the break at work to bend it in the right spot but didnt know if there were other options to do a purchased finished deal
crewchief888
Well-known member
sberry
Banned
I dont wanna work on the box. I wanna pile **** on it I am using. Similar to service cart. I try to strip it once in a while. My bench hangs hammers, adjustables and clamps. I got a couple top boxes but I dont like working from them. I like it cart style with the **** I need on top and next to the bench. Can reach it both coming and going, can pick it up and clean the top of the bench off.
Its location is kind of uniuque due to coming or going to the bench and coming or going out the side door when its open. The sink and battery tools are positioned similar. They are on the way.
Its location is kind of uniuque due to coming or going to the bench and coming or going out the side door when its open. The sink and battery tools are positioned similar. They are on the way.
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oldwino
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have stainless on mine but I don’t use it as a work surface. Actually the stainless came with the box as a freebie (paid for it, just didn’t show up on the tag). Top is only used for the laptop, radio and todays parts deliveries
sberry
Banned
I just as soon have common steel on a bench top. I got a couple 3 rolling tables and 2 benches and benches share vise on one and welding on both, cutting on one. Got thousands of little sings from jobs.
akalian
Well-known member
I use peel and stick vinyl tile for my toolbox tops. It comes in many colors and styles. I get the 18x18 larger ones and some of them come on a very thick substrate. They stand up well to oils and solvents, and if one of them get's really trashed it's easy to replace the damaged one. Pretty cheap as well.
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=18x18+vinyl+floor+tile+peel+and+stick
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https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=18x18+vinyl+floor+tile+peel+and+stick
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tool_scrounge
Well-known member
That turned out nice!
The nicest stainless steel top I ever saw was a large Vidmar tool box with a 1.75" thick butcher block top with a 5 sided welded stainless steel box that fit tightly over the wood. The steel was about 0.09" or so thick. Really nicely constructed. But I suspect it was custom and probably fairly expensive.
The nicest stainless steel top I ever saw was a large Vidmar tool box with a 1.75" thick butcher block top with a 5 sided welded stainless steel box that fit tightly over the wood. The steel was about 0.09" or so thick. Really nicely constructed. But I suspect it was custom and probably fairly expensive.
FWIW I plan to use a wood top coated in envirotex when my new box shows up. I have a stainless kitchen sink and it looked pretty when I installed it but between the scratches from dishes and trying to keep it clean, it drives me nuts. I know with how much the stainless tops cost I would be annoyed every time I scratched or dented it and I know it would happen fast since I want to use it as a true work surface.
I would never bother with stainless .
Steel plate, thick rubber or tempered hardboard makes far better working surface for various usage types .
I swapped out stainless and went mainly rubber besides one cabinet and a bench that does rough work and welding that steel plate.
rubber work great for general mechanical work, non marring, easy clean and easy replace and can be set over ply base board to give pretty hard base and allow vise mounting if required .
Steel plate, thick rubber or tempered hardboard makes far better working surface for various usage types .
I swapped out stainless and went mainly rubber besides one cabinet and a bench that does rough work and welding that steel plate.
rubber work great for general mechanical work, non marring, easy clean and easy replace and can be set over ply base board to give pretty hard base and allow vise mounting if required .
p00p
Well-known member
that looks great. Had to have exceeded the toolbox cost itself?
Stainless is easy to care for. Every so often follow the grain with some steel wool and that will blend the scratches of daily use. I could have gone cheeper but I went with 16 gauge since there isn't much structure with the maple top removed.
p00p
Well-known member
how thick is the SS?