Tool Surface Protection?

[ddawg16]

How do you guys protect the surface of your large tools, say a xy mill or table on a band saw?

I'm cleaning up a used Delta band saw I bought from ZRX a few years ago and the feed table has some pretty good surface rust.

I saw a thread on the subject a few years ago...but I can't find it.

 

[OccupantRJ]

To get the rust off the table, I use an orbital sander, then burgundy scotchbrite. I don’t usually need anything here to keep it from rusting as long as I monitor the humidity and keep the doors shut on rainy days, and it gets pretty humid here as you experienced when you visited me.

 

[Aquamoose]

No need to reinvent the wheel when there’s WD40. It was originally designed to protect metal from the elements on Atlas missiles. Apply on your equipment and wipe off lightly after removing the rust and repeat from time to time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ddawg16]

While I'm a fan of WD-40.....I seem to recall some saying it was not a good choice for surface protection.....

Good chance I stopped reading the thread when the ******* contest started....about par to the PVC vs Iron vs Copper discussions.....

Sounds like I'll be using WD40

I just bought some 16" wheels for my Passat that have been sprayed with Plastidip.....rumor has it, WD40 removes Plastidip just fine.

 

[TXpintail]

Check out CorrosionX. I’ve had great results with it. Even on tools exposed to saltwater spray.

 

[ZRX61]

I cleaned up the table on another bandsaw using Tap Magic (there's apparently something slightly corrosive(?) in it that eats rust) & scotchbrite.
Wipe down with lacquer thinner to remove all contaminants & then give it a coat of wax.

 

[SilverDeck]

Paste wax. Lundmark or Johnson’s.

 

[ZRX61]

To get the rust off the table, I use an orbital sander, then burgundy scotchbrite.

I've used a 6in DA with #360 discs. Keep the pad flat to the table.

 

[Olafur]

ATF or just motor oil in a rug, not as nasty as one might think and works quite well - far better than WD40 for example.
For this one perhaps lanolin based stuff, like Fluid Film. I would however not spray F.F directly on it - it creates a "thick" film, somewhat difficult to clean off right away. But perhaps FF in a rug would make a nice thin protection?. WAX as other have mentioned - I am not too optimistic about long term protection but I don't know.

I guess it depends on how frequently you intend to use it, and perhaps also where you store it - meaning smell from the rust prevention ( some people don't like the smell of Fluid Film ...). Years - I would probably drown it in FF.

 

[Olafur]

More ideas perhaps:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=421365

 

[ddawg16]

Forgot all about ****** fluid. I use it all the time to clean/lube tools. I've had good luck taking rusty tools, give them a quick clean with vinegar then soak them in ****** fluid for a few days.

Anyway....got it cleaned up and put a new blade on it. It's a lot quieter after you get all the **** off the wheels.

While I was at it, I cleaned up the xy table on my drill press. And, yes Roland, I still have your balls that you gave me.

I used angle grinder that has a velcro pad on it...I take a 3M scratch pad, cut in a circle and slap it on. It made quick work of the rust.

Then sprayed some WD40 on another scratch pad and had rubbed it. Came out nice. I think tomorrow I'll wipe it with ****** fluid.

 

[OccupantRJ]

John, I started to tease you the other day when I saw the pic of the drill/mill. For those who don’t know, when John was visiting here he bought the unit from member Beyond1, but had to break it down to bring back the way he wanted on the plane. In the process a couple of steel balls went missing. I kept various sizes of bearing balls at work that I had salveged, so I brought John a new set of the proper size. He was not at the place he was staying so the balls were attached to the doorknob in a plastic bag, labeled something along the line of “here’s your balls”.

 

[Specracer]

This comment is not applicable, if the rust happened before you acquired the equipment, but I would want to try to address why its happening with de humidification.

 

[seber]

WD40 might be the most misunderstood product on the planet. It was designed for temporary rust protection. It is engineered to be used in a heavy coat and then wrapped. It is made for the express purpose of easy removal. As a long term solution it just stinks. It will evaporate over time and leave a nonprotective film that luckily wipes off easily. It has the same problem as a lubricant, it evaporates. CorrosionX on the other hand was designed to protect machine surfaces. Personally I use paraffin wax thinned with solvent.

 

[ddawg16]

John, I started to tease you the other day when I saw the pic of the drill/mill. For those who don’t know, when John was visiting here he bought the unit from member Beyond1, but had to break it down to bring back the way he wanted on the plane. In the process a couple of steel balls went missing. I kept various sizes of bearing balls at work that I had salveged, so I brought John a new set of the proper size. He was not at the place he was staying so the balls were attached to the doorknob in a plastic bag, labeled something along the line of “here’s your balls”.

Yup......and still have a pic of it

 

[Waterjunky]

Corrosion X is phenomenal.
I found another wax like product that I am trying on a drill press shortly. Supposedly you heat up the part just a little, nothing hot enough to damage anything, and then apply it. Some car restoration guys are using it as a coating to have the "bare metal" look on parts. Its called RPM - Rust Prevention Magic. Supposedly designed for exactly this type of use.
Disclaimer --- bought it but haven't used it yet.

 

[sweet victory]

Check out CorrosionX. I’ve had great results with it. Even on tools exposed to saltwater spray.

This is currently all I use. My tools are not too far from the beach, and I have no issues.

 

[JiminAZ]

I use paste wax on cast iron beds used for woodworking.

For other rust protection, the nearest oil will suffice. WD40, CLP, G96, nearest oily rag. Just get something on it from time to time.

I live in the desert now so it's less of an issue. Used to live in coastal California where daily fog was a real thing so it was an issue. Growing up in Houston humidity it was an issue too.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Yup......and still have a pic of it

That gave me a laugh all over again!

 

[JMLangford]

I use a random orbital sander starting with 120 grit (80 grit if it's a stubborn stain) and a dremel for the nooks and crannies, and edges.

Then I finish off with Johnson's paste wax....I have to be careful with anything other than wax, because working with wood you don't want to use anything that will contaminate the wood surface and cause finishing problems.





.

 

[ddawg16]

I use a random orbital sander starting with 120 grit (80 grit if it's a stubborn stain) and a dremel for the nooks and crannies, and edges.

Then I finish off with Johnson's paste wax....I have to be careful with anything other than wax, because working with wood you don't want to use anything that will contaminate the wood surface and cause finishing problems.


.

I do mostly woodworking.....thanks for the info

 

[MShaw]

All I can say is don't use Starrett M-1 spray. I used it on machinist's tools when I moved years ago. It dried to a hard film that was nearly impossible to remove.