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Tooling (Re)Organization

Firebrick43

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Bob Heine

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Good idea putting clear tape over the top, that solves my concern of the tables just getting eaten the first time liquids get on them.
I have been using a brother label maker for years now. Most of my spray bottles are labeled with such and covered with some clear tape.
Matt and Firebrick43, I wasn't real clear when I mentioned clear tape. The two label tapes I use most are clear and print as either white or black.
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Here and I thought I was the only one. Who'd a thunk that a site full of plastic bottles would be interesting to shop guys.

It's a crazy addiction. For whatever reason there's just no way to skip buying a dozen bottles that cost $.60. Every time I add something to the cart, the shop devil on my shoulder is whispering "remember, you paid $90 for one end mill.."
Matt, it is pretty contagious but I'm not aware of any deaths related to this particular addiction. A couple of years ago I bought some 2oz. aluminum bottles and spray caps for my wife. Because they are small, they can be brought on airplanes and perfect for a water spritzer. That being said, in the current environment, a small spray bottle of 70% (or 99%) alcohol is a great thing to carry with you. I carry a 4oz. flip cap bottle of it but someone I love could break a nail on one of those. If I let her carry both water and alcohol, BIG LABELS are important (maybe even some red nail polish on the alcohol sprayer top.
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https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=91723&clickid=related-slider
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https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=91727&clickid=related-slider

(They also have pumps for heavier liquids.)

This morning I noticed that the labels just two years ago are quite faded! They have been in sight of a window but it never has direct sunlight and it is good glass with some of the selective coatings.

Any thoughts?
Firebrick43, only thing I can think of is heat. The Brother label maker uses a thermal process for printing the labels.
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=136803&clickid=related-slider

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=136804&clickid=related-slider

They have some prelabled with acetone, alcohol,and thinner

I will say that for my main glue bottle, the fastcap gluebot is worth every penny and then some. I literally think it is my favorite tool in the shop from a ease of use compared to bottles with ribbon applicators!
Firebrick43, those pre-labeled bottles are fine for Matt but I would be afraid to use something with "Professional Use Only" on it.
 

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elperepat

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I have been using a brother label maker for years now. Most of my spray bottles are labeled with such and covered with some clear tape. This morning I noticed that the labels just two years ago are quite faded! They have been in sight of a window but it never has direct sunlight and it is good glass with some of the selective coatings.

Any thoughts?

Just found out lately that M type P-Touch are quoted as temporary labels as they are not laminated. TZe is what you want.
 

Firebrick43

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Just found out lately that M type P-Touch are quoted as temporary labels as they are not laminated. TZe is what you want.

Well I feel like an idiot. Label maker is a dymo Letra. And doing research they only guaranty a year “in an office environment”. The tags in my gun room on my reloading bench have lasted 5 years but there is no natural light.

Ironically my mother got us a label maker for Christmas. Not really needing another I set it aside and forgot about it. Wife told me where I had left it and it’s a brother P touch with TZe tape. Talk about irony.
 

nicholam77

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Hey lilscorpion, question for you on laminating your MFT surfaces. I think at one point on one of your benches you drilled the clamping holes first, then laminated the surface, and then flush-trimmed the laminate to the holes. (I couldn't find the page so this is from memory -- please correct me if I am mistaken).

Is there a reason for doing it this way vs. laminating the work surface and then routing all the holes?

I am making another MFT and would like to try a laminated surface this time but wasn't sure what the best order of operations is.

Thanks!

:beer:
 
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lilscorpion

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Hey lilscorpion, question for you on laminating your MFT surfaces. I think at one point on one of your benches you drilled the clamping holes first, then laminated the surface, and then flush-trimmed the laminate to the holes. (I couldn't find the page so this is from memory -- please correct me if I am mistaken).



Is there a reason for doing it this way vs. laminating the work surface and then routing all the holes?



I am making another MFT and would like to try a laminated surface this time but wasn't sure what the best order of operations is.



Thanks!



:beer:


You’re right, I cut the holes first and the laminated them. I did it in this order for two reasons:

1) laminate is really hard on cutters and the glue doesn’t do them any favors as well.

2) i was worried that the heat, dust, and friction/vibration created during the hole cutting process might impact adhesion if the laminate. No good data to support my concern. Many times I’ve routed through laminate with no separation issues.

There’s a 3rd reason too...on the first bench I made I wasn’t planning on laminating it so the holes were already cut. It worked so and my cutter was like new so I didn’t change a process that clearly wasn’t broke for the above reasons. [emoji16]
 
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lilscorpion

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I’ve been using these spill proof “Spillmaster” containers for some time for both aluminum-specific and tap magic fluids. They’re undoubtedly awesome as I’ve never spilled but I do have one criticism of them as a whole - you either have to store them with the lid off and an acid brush hanging out of them or you need to remove the acid brush each time to put the lid on…then do something with the brush. For quite some time I’ve just cleaned of the brush into a towel and thrown it into the drawer where I keep the Spillmaster.

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A few weeks ago I was replacing our hot water heater. When I was re-connecting the gas line I pulled out the Harveyseal and had an epiphany. Maybe I should look into a container that has an acid brush in it for thread cutting/drilling. Yeah it’s not spill proof but, to be fair, I don’t spill so maybe spill proof isn’t the most valuable requirement for me.

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Yes, USPlastic.com again…found that these containers are called tank bottles and ordered some. The containers are almost exactly the same as the pipe seal and anti-seize products I already have. The acid brush appears to be a higher quality than the ones I’ve been using from the local big box store.

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I’ve learned that for quick identification, the color is far more important than the words written on the labels. Once my brain gets trained to identify aluminum cutting fluid with green, then all I really look for is the green bottle. That’s how I find it today so why change.

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Thought about ordering labels and printing out something fancy but, in my haste, figured my fancy-dancy paint pens were better than good enough to color label the containers.

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Now I really think I’ll like the ease of use on these things. I did a little drilling op and it was easy to lube up and return to the drawer.

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I went ahead and ordered a bunch of extra lids/brushes so I can quickly swap a new one in as needed.

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The slightly smaller container size will allow me to have multiples around the shop/garage and closer to where I typically drill and/or tap which is really cool.
 

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Duker

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I’ve been using these spill proof “Spillmaster” containers for some time for both aluminum-specific and tap magic fluids. They’re undoubtedly awesome as I’ve never spilled but I do have one criticism of them as a whole - you either have to store them with the lid off and an acid brush hanging out of them or you need to remove the acid brush each time to put the lid on…then do something with the brush. For quite some time I’ve just cleaned of the brush into a towel and thrown it into the drawer where I keep the Spillmaster.

...Yes, USPlastic.com again…found that these containers are called tank bottles and ordered some. The containers are almost exactly the same as the pipe seal and anti-seize products I already have. The acid brush appears to be a higher quality than the ones I’ve been using from the local big box store.

I’ve learned that for quick identification, the color is far more important than the words written on the labels. Once my brain gets trained to identify aluminum cutting fluid with green, then all I really look for is the green bottle. That’s how I find it today so why change.

Now I really think I’ll like the ease of use on these things. I did a little drilling op and it was easy to lube up and return to the drawer.

I went ahead and ordered a bunch of extra lids/brushes so I can quickly swap a new one in as needed.

The slightly smaller container size will allow me to have multiples around the shop/garage and closer to where I typically drill and/or tap which is really cool.


I like those little containers... I love the Spillmaster but I found these on Amazon as cheaper alternative and they work well. I have them all over the shop.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JL54II/?tag=atomicindus08-20

8e7f0b48fc64e4dd6de8479bcef30e93.jpg




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

R. Deschain

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I had shoulder surgery and I have been spending my down time on a number of organization projects around the shop: end mill bit storage, precision measurement tool drawers, CNC tooling drawers, organizing router bits, getting my lathe tooling up and within easy access, and hanging/organizing a tool board in the garage.

Most of the work done with a combo of 3D printer and X-Carve CNC - except for the welding on the lathe tool rack. Videos and maker files are linked in the build videos on my YouTube channel.
 

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lilscorpion

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beelsr

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spillproof containers are indeed awesome. i got mine from staples...

pro tip: drop a strong magnet in the spillproof container. it will serve two functions - keeping the container from doing the gravity dance and sucking metal crud off the brush for a cleaner swipe.
 
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lilscorpion

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spillproof containers are indeed awesome. i got mine from staples...

pro tip: drop a strong magnet in the spillproof container. it will serve two functions - keeping the container from doing the gravity dance and sucking metal crud off the brush for a cleaner swipe.


Fantastic idea.
 

bdbecker

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spillproof containers are indeed awesome. i got mine from staples...

pro tip: drop a strong magnet in the spillproof container. it will serve two functions - keeping the container from doing the gravity dance and sucking metal crud off the brush for a cleaner swipe.

So simple, yet so brilliant. Thank you for sharing that!
 
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lilscorpion

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i just wish my ideas would cause you to spend $100s... :beer:



Dude...I’m a freak. Every idea causes me to spend $100’s because it spawns a dozen more.

right how I’m trying to figure out what to use in the bottom of the spill proof container for the aluminum cutting oil. That’s probably where the expense is going to come from - an aluminum magnet. ROFL
 
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beelsr

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just use a regular magnet - stick it to the DP table or the lathe ways and call it done.

i have an aluminium magnet around here somewhere, but i can't pronounce it properly to get it to work...
 
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lilscorpion

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Just a little update from the shop - we’ve found an adequate oven on Craigslist and got it home red neck style.

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We had to modify the cabinet space to integrate it in. It’s a compromise. It I think it’s worth it. Powder coating system is on order and I’m looking for a sand blast cabinet I can install below the oven.

And yeah, my 17 year old Andrew is actually cleaning the oven!!

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lilscorpion

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You don't want media dust anywhere near your oven / coating area.


Yeah, I get it. Due to my limited shop space, I’ve never had the luxury of segregating my work space so I’ve had to keep my processes completely separate and clean frequently. More or less, shop time is defined by modes: wood working mode, metal fab mode, general whatever mode, and finishing mode (typically HVLP or any other painting, staining, or clears. I’ll probably have to just add a “mode” for PC. Hopefully cleaning and allowing dust to settle in between, will create a clean enough environment to end up with nice finishes.


...I already know I need a (much) bigger shop. Known that for about 10 years now.
 

R. Deschain

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I am healing from shoulder surgery and am on a tool and toolbox organization kick. I had a drawer full of thread gauges, rose & V-blocks, and various other tools used on my mill and lathe. I designed the insert with AutoCAD and Easel as I have with previous inserts and then cut it out of some scrap 1/2 birch plywood with my X-Carve. A little hand fitting, three coats of clear matte varnish, a little teal colored Kaizen foam, and the final drawer in my rolling machinist tool caddy (I am not a machinist!!) is done. the other two drawers are shown in a previous post.

A video of the project build is here
 

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lilscorpion

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We’ve finally progressed on the Powder Coating setup. Where or last left if we had toasted home a single in-wall oven in the Camry and built a cabinet for it. Since then, the blasting cabinet arrived and we got it unboxed.

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We set it up in place and got a feel for its strengths and weaknesses.

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We addressed a few of them - we removed the plexiglass, added riv-nuts so glass would be easier to replace

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and installed a 3mm sheet of glass below the lexan to improve longevity and durability. We selected this cabinet specifically because it was narrow enough to fit in our oven cabinet but plenty wide enough to fit the largest part we can coat in the oven.

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To install it in the cabinet, we need to build a tray that it can ride on which pulls out when we need to blast and locks away when we don’t. We started by installing these 400lb licking drawer slides we sourced from AHTurf.com.

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On the slides we made the tray out of a combination of 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch pre-finished Baltic birch.

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A test fit/install to ensure we have appropriate clearances.

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The blast cabinet has a sump which we need to account for in the design.

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Adding the allowance for the sump in the tray with the track saw.

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And after a little corner nipping with the jigsaw, voila.

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The way this cabinet is assembled leaves nuts protruding out the bottom of the cabinet so some spacers are needed to create clearance.

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A cooler design would have been to disassemble the entire thing and Just mount it directly to the tray but that’s too much fussing so we made these little feet.

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They install I. The corners and capture two sides

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With the spacers all installed, all that’s needed now is to drop it in and screw it in place.

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Slightly different perspective to show how perfectly it fits. We’ll need to raise the entire cabinet about 8” to get the boat cabinet and oven up to their ideal heights.

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What’s nice about that is we will now have additional space below the cabinet to add a drawer or 2 for extra bags of appendices and other consumables.

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Stuart in MN

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Either the blast cabinet needs to be painted black, or the oven needs to be painted red so they both match. :) And maybe that stair railing, too.
 

Bob Heine

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Sitting at the blast cabinet is kind of relaxing. I set mine on a cheap cart so I can roll it out of the workshop. It's a HF cabinet and leaks quite a bit. A little glass bead in the lawn won't hurt anything. When the right glove wore through I turned the left glove inside out and switched it to the right hole. A piece of aluminum flashing in the left hole made the cabinet mine. I did put a fluorescent fixture inside for better lighting. Now I need to rivnut the window frame in like you did.
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lilscorpion

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Sitting at the blast cabinet is kind of relaxing. I set mine on a cheap cart so I can roll it out of the workshop. It's a HF cabinet and leaks quite a bit. A little glass bead in the lawn won't hurt anything. When the right glove wore through I turned the left glove inside out and switched it to the right hole. A piece of aluminum flashing in the left hole made the cabinet mine. I did put a fluorescent fixture inside for better lighting. Now I need to rivnut the window frame in like you did.
attachment.php


You’re totally right. There is something relaxing about blasting. I have noticed that an hour of it or so is almost the perfect way to rejuvenate after work.

The glove trick is smart. Never woulda thought about making a left a right by flipping it inside out...
 
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lilscorpion

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i got the same blast cabinet, it leaks so you need to seal the seams



Is it possible that your dust collector doesn’t have enough vacuum to overcome the compressed air pumped into you cabinet by the air compressor? Mine vac creates enough negative pressure that the gloves inflate. Any seal issue on mine would be pulling air in instead of blowing air out.
 

Trapps

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Matt,

Because I am re-reading your thread from beginning to end (currently at post 340) I was wondering if the missing picture links might be restored?

Just as an FYI, there are links broken in the original thread too.

As my shop evolves in its development and building, I keep returning to your reorg threads for ideas. I really like your thought process, ideas and craftsmanship.

Thanks,

Mark

:beer:
 
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lilscorpion

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Matt,



Because I am re-reading your thread from beginning to end (currently at post 340) I was wondering if the missing picture links might be restored?



Just as an FYI, there are links broken in the original thread too.



As my shop evolves in its development and building, I keep returning to your reorg threads for ideas. I really like your thought process, ideas and craftsmanship.



Thanks,



Mark



:beer:


Thank you!

I’ll have to dig. I flipped through it and didn’t find any but there’s a **** ton of pages.

The original thread may no longer be fixable. I used to have a website that had the pictures hyper organized but it got hacked and content was lost. I have the original pictures but not sure I can figure out which ones go with which post...
 

Strouty

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38,209
Location
Southern Maine
I used to have all my pictures on photo bucket, then they tried to hold them hostage, in the process of trying to negotiate their release about 10,000 were lost. I gave up on my original thread due to dead links and lost pictures, so I understand.
 
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