Tools for extracting screws

[engineer2]

Any tips on removing a large quantity of cement board screws from a plywood subfloor? The square drives are filled in with thinset. Prying them up splinters the plywood.
Anybody know of a screw extractor that grips the perimeter of a screw head?

 

[dutchgray]

They make pliers for this, search for Screw removal pliers, they mostly seem to be a Japanese made item.
Engineer inc seem to be the mosr popular, they make the Vampliers which you can get easily from Amazon.

https://www.vampiretools.com

 

[M_George]

I have the Vampliers, don't think they would work well for that. You need to be able to grab the screw head with them. I would use a hard sharp scribe and punch the mastic out of the screw slots first. Doesn't take but seconds each once you get the hang of it. Then a good clean screw bit on your drill should bring them right out.

 

[grumpychevy]

You could always drill the head off, somewhat like drilling a pop rivet, then lift the plywood and cut off wheel what's left of the screws down to the floor joist.

 

[thursday]

Any tips on removing a large quantity of cement board screws from a plywood subfloor? The square drives are filled in with thinset. Prying them up splinters the plywood.
Anybody know of a screw extractor that grips the perimeter of a screw head?

Are the screws sticking proud of the subfloor? If so a couple options come to mind.

1.) No specialty tools required other than a cordless drill and it's keyless chuck. Tighten the chuck down around the screw head and then reverse the drill.

2.) A bolt extractor. Although a screw head doesn't have much of a head for the extractor to bite. Note these are different from screw extractors.

3.) purchase a few left handed drill bits.

 

[engineer2]

By the time I bust out the hardibacker, the screws will stick out a quarter inch. I might try the keyless chuck trick. If that doesn't do it, I may just put a metal cutting blade in my recip saw.

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

Hardened screws will eat your blade on the first one.
I would brake up the Hardie backer and then hit the screws with a cutoff blade on a 4" grinder.

 

[unslow1]

Hardened screws will eat your blade on the first one.
I would brake up the Hardie backer and then hit the screws with a cutoff blade on a 4" grinder.

That's exactly what I was thinking when I read the first post. It would take hours to try and remove them. Even then you would probably damage the floor anyway.

 

[superautobacs]

I suggest using this type....like these Alden's:

 

[6PTsocket]

Any tips on removing a large quantity of cement board screws from a plywood subfloor? The square drives are filled in with thinset. Prying them up splinters the plywood.
Anybody know of a screw extractor that grips the perimeter of a screw head?

The Alden grabbit or any of the clones that look like the same tool. They are used with any drill with REVERSE. One end drills a very shallow dimple in the head of the screw. Phillips and square drives that center the bit are a piece of cake. The bit cuts CCW so as not to drive the screw deeper. Reverse the bit in the drill and the very tight spiral extractor grabs in that shallow dimple like you would not believe. The fact that you drill first overcomes the thinset clogged screw slot problem. I have pulled completely rusted in sheet metal screws with ease. They are also gauranteed for life. Mail in busted one and they send you a new one.

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[6PTsocket]

The one weakness of the,akden is the extractor is better than the drill bit. The CCW drilledpilot hol

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[Danglerb]

Maybe a pick and/or some cheap bits and a small hammer to knock the thinset out of the heads enough to use a screwdriver bit to take them out. A couple taps with a hammer usually works with stuff like paint in the screw head.

 

[Wamsutta]

https://store.snapon.com/Special-Purpose-Pistol-Grip-Needle-Nose-Pliers-9-3-4--P636971.aspx

Snap-on 612AEP. It's hard to see in the picture, but there's two pipe grip jaws: one large one on the side, and then a smaller pipe grip jaw on the nose of the pliers that are perpendicular to the aforementioned side pipe grip. I use the grip on the nose when grabbing the heads of stripped out screws. These pliers WILL remove the screws, but if you have a hundred of them to do, you might want to go with something else. But for a small number of screws, they're ideal.

 

[KnurledNut]

I would probably tear the hardie up and just pound the screws in with a hammer.
Kinda depends on application.
Just my .02.

 

[cherrybomb]

I would also try the alden type tool after first hitting the screw with a punch and hammer.If you have one that doesn't respond,cut the hardibacker and use a vise grip.Another option is a left hand direction drill bit,just another tool in a tool junkies arsenal..

 

[sberry]

I would smack them with a small hammer and pick them out, use the bit that put them in.

 

[SRSemenza]

I have the Vampliers, don't think they would work well for that. You need to be able to grab the screw head with them. I would use a hard sharp scribe and punch the mastic out of the screw slots first. Doesn't take but seconds each once you get the hang of it. Then a good clean screw bit on your drill should bring them right out.

This one sounds like the way to go to me.

Seth

 

[6PTsocket]

That's exactly what I was thinking when I read the first post. It would take hours to try and remove them. Even then you would probably damage the floor anyway.

Don't knock it if you haven't tried it.

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[engineer2]

Great Tips, thanks!
I thought about the reverse drive extractors, and now knowing they have a "pre-drill" feature, it may be worth a try.
A cut-off wheel would work too.
As said, if all that fails, just pound them in with a BFH.
I probably have 400 or so to deal with.
Wife hates the kitchen tile, so out it comes. It has a decorative texture that is impossible to keep clean. I also learned to never use lighter-colored grout.

 

[unslow1]

Don't knock it if you haven't tried it.

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The couple of times I have been it that situation I tore up the floor and used a hammer. I'm not spending hours trying to get screws and staples out if the material is cheap. I have done that on some nice hardwood floors but not cheap backer. I could have new floor in there before I would get half the screws out. Plywood is cheap.

 

[SnapOnAddiction]

Vampire Tools dude they make pliers that grip the outside diameter and are made in Japan of good steel.

I have they're entire line up down to the scissors and demo blocks, they were sent to me via the marketing director himself to try out and show my family and provide feedback.

They are costly but makea few sizes from linesman to miniature pliers for elctronics.

Oh and really they are rebranded Engineer owned by Futabo manufacturing or something like that but decent quality, I've used everything and really like the t-handle extractor and the knife/wire sleeve stripper. GL

 

[MikeF2316]

One other thing to try is using a cutoff wheel on edge to cut a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. This has the added benefit of loosening and maybe releasing the thinset inside the square drive holes.