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Yes, they are discounted. I've bought a 6-32 mm set few years back with missing #10 #13 and #16(replaced with No. 120), contacted Unior and they had one spanner left on stock in Singapore, so they couldn't help me... So I guess I'll never complete this setVery nice. Do you know if 130s are discontinued? I cannot find them on the Unior website or catalogue. Cannot really find anything about them anywhere.![]()
I happened to see a couple of 130s on UK ebay. Wrong sizes for you, but maybe you will get lucky if you set a saved search on Ebay. Strangely these don't have polished open ends.Yes, they are discounted. I've bought a 6-32 mm set few years back with missing #10 #13 and #16(replaced with No. 120), contacted Unior and they had one spanner left on stock in Singapore, so they couldn't help me... So I guess I'll never complete this set![]()




The choice in Vallorbe needle files is generally 0, 2 or 4. I always go for the 0 for general use, 2 sometimes for fine work. I think cut 4 is “extra fine” and the only tools I have with this are some very small “escapement” files.Here's a few recent Swiss made purchases. This is my first Vallorbe file and I wasn't sure what cut to choose. I wanted something relatively fine, so I chose the # 4 fine which is much finer than I expected. Any file savvy individuals know what the rough equivalent grit sandpaper would be? I did a feel compared to 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper and it felt closest to the 2000 grit (but is very subjective).
PB Swiss 8128.2,5-50
PB Swiss 8100.0-80
Glardon Vallorbe LA2401 # 4, 200mm length
From what I found online when I was shopping, 0 is 64 TPI, 2 is 79 TPI. I have both and the #2 is almost too fine for my uses.The choice in Vallorbe needle files is generally 0, 2 or 4. I always go for the 0 for general use, 2 sometimes for fine work. I think cut 4 is “extra fine” and the only tools I have with this are some very small “escapement” files.
That’s interesting. I only saw actual figures quoted once before, and they were in “teeth per square millipede” or somesuch.From what I found online when I was shopping, 0 is 64 TPI, 2 is 79 TPI. I have both and the #2 is almost too fine for my uses.

WHY!Spotted some tools branded Gedore 'Solid.'
Thought they just had blue and red ranges.







Very nice! These are usually called “ratchet units” or ratchet adaptors, and in my opinion are very under rated tools.Facom 1/2" ratchet. Not sure what these are called. Facom call it an 'Offset Ratchet.' Also see them referred to as 'attachment' or adapter.' Purchased used from Ebay.
Easy to take apart by removing one torx screw.
Familiar Facom heart spring mechanism.
It looks like the internal pin that pushes against the heart spring can be punched out to completely dissemble the ratchet. I didn't risk it.
Rust removed, cleaned out and reassembled. Very straight forward, but frustrating to put back together. Took me a good few tries. Lost the spring twice. It's a replacement for the 24t Sealey ratchet on the left. Facom is 72t. The Sealey ratchet has a three position rotating direction switch which locks out the ratchet in the centre position. The Facom direction switch does not have a defined central position to lock the mechanism. The mechanism does feel locked when the switch is rotated half way, but I'm not sure if it has been designed to be used this way.
Fitted to breaker bar to be used as a long flex ratchet.
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My idea of a torque wrench is that it is a precision instrument, that I would use when care and precision is needed. That being said I would not bother with a cheap or inexpensive torque wrench when you can get a well known brand without spending a fortune. I will recommend NORBAR. But, I am sure you already know that.Bit embarrassing to post this under a set of Stahlwilles. Cheap torque wrench from Amazon. It was shipped from Germany.
Seems to give very close readings to a cheap digital torque adapter. Low quality, low tooth count ratchet head. Handle does not lock out very well (not sure if this is normal for this type of torque wrench). Very positive click.
Even after checking with two torque wrenches, I still feel compelled to double-check with a breaker bar. It will take a while to trust a torque wrench over arm feel. Stuck in a mind set of turning until tight, and then cranking a bit more to make sure.![]()
Going from youtube reviews (I know, not a reliable way to get info), these cheap torque wrenches can be pretty accurate. At least, when new. I think, the problem is, that I'm not convinced that wheel nuts need to be torqued with any sort of precision, so I'm not motivated to spend on a better torque wrench right now. Had never used a clicky torque wrench before, so I'm just getting a feel for it.My idea of a torque wrench is that it is a precision instrument, that I would use when care and precision is needed. That being said I would not bother with a cheap or inexpensive torque wrench when you can get a well known brand without spending a fortune. I will recommend NORBAR. But, I am sure you already know that.
The ones I’ve had have been pretty accurate. My Snap-on guy tested and calibrated my Harbor Freight torque wrench and it was in spec.Going from youtube reviews (I know, not a reliable way to get info), these cheap torque wrenches can be pretty accurate. At least, when new. I think, the problem is, that I'm not convinced that wheel nuts need to be torqued with any sort of precision, so I'm not motivated to spend on a better torque wrench right now. Had never used a clicky torque wrench before, so I'm just getting a feel for it.