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Tools you have made or modified

Blacknwhitepit

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
3,176
Location
Eastern Tennessee
I was removing an 86 Olds engine when I discovered I had to remove some nuts on the power steering box. The only thing that I had that could get to it was a crow's foot, and even using that, it took a while to remove.

I noticed Snap on made a socket that would have made the job much easier however it cost over $50.00!!!

special.jpg



I wonder if I could have taken a cheap deep well socket and ground it out for the same effect?

So far the only modifications I have done are:

1. Heating a combination wrench and making it a modified moon wrench.

2. Welded a 9/16 socket to a cheap rubber handle screwdriver to make a 9/16 nutdriver that would push in retaining clips on lawn mower carb priming bulbs.

3. Grinded out a portion of a boxed end of wrench to make a 12pt line wrench.

:beer:

-BWP
 
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1320stang

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
4,563
Location
Edmond, OK
I made a tool to turn the rear brake calipers for an Isuzu Amigo back in. I had bought a Lisle tool for it, but it didn't fit. I had a socket that looked like a flat blade screwdriver tip (I've seen it refered to here before, but I forgot what it was called) that I ground down, used a 4" grinder disc to cut some notches and some 1/4" rod welded in place. Worked well and didn't look too bad. Had to file on it a bit. Flash makes it look bad....

dscf4069.jpg

dscf4068.jpg
 

ColdDuckTime

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
384
Ugh-Ugh make tools. Ugh-Ugh make prybar out of screwdriver. Ugh-Ugh make driver out of socket.

Ugh-Ugh go eat dinner now.
 

Deafautotech

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
7,653
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
sometime i can make the adjustment on my tools but i am concern is if i try to adjustment and it went break when i trying to do the job. the warranty are slim as may cant replacement... but if i am use a lot then i don't mind to pay 50 dollar for the tool that i am use a lot and it still working instead break the tool and no warranty...
 

drbill

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
118
Location
Detroit
Being I work on proto type Ford truck we have to make or modify tools all the time. One of the most used ones I made was modifying a screw driver to get the back seat out of 04 and up F150's.
 

jimmycrackcorn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
498
Location
Brooklyn, NY
At a friends garage I needed a 17mm hex driver one time, he had a welder and some old lug nuts from different cars. So i took a old VW lug and a 19mm nut and welded them to each other. It doubled as a 19mm/3/4 and 17mm hex driver. Also have some picks that i modified to remove terminals out of various electronic plugs.
 

-lecroix-

Banned
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
946
I made a rock / concrete chisel out of one of my dad's flat head Snap On screw drivers when I was 8 ... he then made minced meat out of my ***. :D
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
It don't get much simpler than this. My Chrysler manual called for some special tools to assist in the removal/installation of the crank damper on my 2.0 Plymouth Breeze. Manual calls for a 3 hook puller to remove the damper, bearing against a special tool. I bought a length of M12x1.75 threaded rod and a bag of (25) nuts and a couple of washers from the junk box. Screw in a section of the rod in the crank in the place of the damper retaining bolt, and pull against it. For re-installation, put on the damper and screw in the rod, with two nuts on the end jammed together (to keep the rod from turning with a wrench) and a third one and a couple of washers and lots of neverseize, to press it back on. Not quite as sophisticated at the tool shown in the manual but quite functional, all for about $11 from Fastenal.

Charles
 
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1320stang

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
4,563
Location
Edmond, OK
THAT'S RIGHT, A DRAG LINK SOCKET!!!

I had it for 20 years and never used it.

And thanks wilbilt, it did turn out pretty nice for something I hacked together in the garage. I even used the wire brush on the bench grinder after I got done. I wished I would have put better welds on it, but I think the chrome was messing with it a little bit.

I tell you, I don't know how people get by without a pocket MIG. Mine is a Miller 130A 110v welder a buddy and I split the cost on about 10 years ago at the NSRA event here in OKC. It was $600 with the gas kit as I recall. Man, I've made all sorts of stuff, repaired all sorts of stuff, especially stuff I'd have to throw away and spend a bunch more buying new. That welder has paid for itself probably 2 or 3 times over it's original total cost just on the stuff I've fixed, not to mention all the work my buddy has done with it. We've probably run 5 or 6 4' tall bottles thru it. The one thing we screwed up on was buying the cheap HF wire, we need to swap out the liner now as it gets hung up a lot of the time. I've been thinking about just getting a better gun and lead, maybe a Tweco. If we ever get a 220v welder, we're talking about converting this one over to aluminum only.
 

Will H

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
46
Location
Metro Detroit, MI
I just finished building a unique brake caliper spreader tool. I recently helped a co-worker with his 1980 vette. We swapped a caliper on the RH front, then went to change pads on the LH. Had a hard time getting all 4 pistons to open up for the new pads. It has 2 pistons on the inside and 2 on the outside, as opposed to newer cars I'm used to with pistons on the insides and sliders for the caliper. As a result, the typical brake caliper spreader tools wouldn't fit.

After making a mess with the bleeder screw and finally getting it done, I made a tool using the backing plates from the old pads. Drilled the rivets to knock off the pads so I had bare backing plates. Rounded the corners, then welded a piece of bar stock right up the middle, so it would stick out above and below the caliper. I made two of these...one for each side of the caliper. Welded 2 stacks of washers to one (the inside) and welded 2 nuts to the other (outside). Now a bolt above and below the caliper will push the backing plates apart and spread all 4 pistons at once. Total cost less than $10, plus I got some practice with my new Arc welder. Little bit of POR-15 in the next day or two and they'll be ready to rock.
 

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
The first that comes to mind is the HEI GM distribtor body that I gutted and altered for attaching an electric drill to the end and building oil pressure before initially starting a new or fresh rebuilt engine.
 

IanF

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2006
Messages
180
Location
Croydon, PA
I've made a few:

bent up some 1/4" rod to make a leveraging bracket for installing the shifter-cap on a NP435.

Needed a fan pully holding tool for a BMW but didn't realize this until the car was half apart. Made one out of 1" x 1/4" steel... Was then modified again to serve as a driveshaft yoke holding tool for our Volvos. (Have since bought a proper fan pulley holding tool)

Used leftover stock from the above tool to make a wrench to remove/install the coolant level sensor in the same BMW. (Now have large crow foot wrenches that woul do the job better)

Ground flats into a 22mm socket for loosening alternator pulley nut and (I think) strut top nut. I imagine most of us have done that.

Eventually I'll get a welder... then LOOK OUT! :lol_hitti
 

Amarkel

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Messages
17
Location
Akron, Ohio
I just finished building a unique brake caliper spreader tool. I recently helped a co-worker with his 1980 vette. We swapped a caliper on the RH front, then went to change pads on the LH. Had a hard time getting all 4 pistons to open up for the new pads. It has 2 pistons on the inside and 2 on the outside, as opposed to newer cars I'm used to with pistons on the insides and sliders for the caliper. As a result, the typical brake caliper spreader tools wouldn't fit.

Please post a picture!

My father had a "special tool" for removing rotors and drums. It was nothing more than iron pipe caps that he would place over the hub of the rotor or drum and hit it with an air hammer. It worked to romove the corrosion. After sharing the technique in a magazine, he got a call from SP Tools and he submitted his idea. They made a prototype and tested it! How cool is that! Here it is:
2052843720_8988161cb4.jpg


They decided to pass, but he got to keep the prototype! If you have a tool idea I encourage you to submit it! At the least they will say no, or you might get the prototype! Or you could get rich.
 

jimmycrackcorn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
498
Location
Brooklyn, NY
My father had a "special tool" for removing rotors and drums. It was nothing more than iron pipe caps that he would place over the hub of the rotor or drum and hit it with an air hammer. It worked to romove the corrosion. After sharing the technique in a magazine, he got a call from SP Tools and he submitted his idea. They made a prototype and tested it! How cool is that! Here it is:
2052843720_8988161cb4.jpg


They decided to pass, but he got to keep the prototype! If you have a tool idea I encourage you to submit it! At the least they will say no, or you might get the prototype! Or you could get rich.

A instructor once told me, that if you have an idea for something write it down on something even if its on a napkin and put it your pocket. Most ideas come when your actually doing the work...
 

drbill

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
118
Location
Detroit
Here's a picture of the screwdriver I modified for rear seat removal on 04 and up F-150's
 

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wilbilt

Banned
Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Messages
5,602
Location
NorCal
how can't you sleeping? i cant keep working if i dont have nap or sleep as it will make me being too damn tired... :dunno:

I don't sleep well because I worry about my job all the time. I have to be at work at 6:30AM, but usually wake up at 3:30.

That gives me time to ping all of the servers, run a couple of quick backups and generally be sure that everything is working when the users begin arriving at 5:00AM.

Is it a perfect system? No.
Does that make me sleep any better? No.
 

Deafautotech

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
7,653
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
I don't sleep well because I worry about my job all the time. I have to be at work at 6:30AM, but usually wake up at 3:30.

That gives me time to ping all of the servers, run a couple of quick backups and generally be sure that everything is working when the users begin arriving at 5:00AM.

Is it a perfect system? No.
Does that make me sleep any better? No.

WOW, that is very early... are you live few hours away from your job? i had to wake up at 6am everyday to go my work at 7am as i just want be there early to clean and get ready for work as if i have work then i can clock in early... i am hourly technician...
 
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