Torque tools for over 300ft/lb

[2ndGearRubber]

I've been banging into the upper limits of my torquing abilities. It seems 300+ ft/lb is no longer a rare item for me to run into. It also appears 3/4 drive is the primary way to achieve this, with 200-600 being the common range I'm seeing. I'm not convinced to go on the cheaper side of the market. 40" of leverage has me frankly scared of failed heads/gears when the torquing numbers get high.


Torque wrench with breaker bar as well - $550

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDPJF38/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Just the wrench - $430

Amazon.com

For the additional $$$, it seems a breaker bar add-on would be a good choice? I'm not very interest in electronic torque adapters, BUT for the time being I may stick with 1/2 sockets and a step-down adapters. Almost all the work I'm looking at is sub 400ft/lbs. These Precision Instruments options aren't my only options, just some data points I pulled up. It looks like the "cheap" 200-600 wrenches are $250-$300. Snap On/Proto are likely too expensive for my frequency of use. Both looked $1000+. So what should I be looking for?

 

[Wrench97]

I've had several Snap On 3/4" over the years, but my SK has held up the best.
300 to 550 is the range I used them in.
Williams and Proto we also used at the shop and they held up well with multiple guy using/abusing them

 

[dchawk81]

I have a 1" drive AME Intl breakaway style. Has a 200-750 range.

It's about 5 feet long and you just hang on it until it lets go. Or at least that's how my small *** has to do it. Lol.

 

[u2slow]

I use a torque multiplier. My Dana 80 pinion nut needed it.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/torque-multiplier/product/PA0008063927

 

[cretedog]

I use a torque multiplier. My Dana 80 pinion nut needed it.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/torque-multiplier/product/PA0008063927

+1 on a torque multiplier.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042T05IC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[dmaxfireman]

I have this one. Snap On 1in drive 200-1000 ft lbs QD5R1000

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

 

[plinker]

I had bought a CDI off ebay that does up to 400lb, 3/4 drive. Looks like this one based on memory, I paid 225$ a long while back,https://www.ebay.com/itm/3043372243...oVf24KwLZJ/CKy/XWApyVJhiA=|tkp:Bk9SR5K-w-ufYQ
I've not run into stripped/split gears in 3/4 stuff myself, but I've seen the aftermath of a couple and question what they were doing to break it (L872, gear split, but intact). 200-600lb range is the most common. The split beam varitey are nice, quick to adjust. A multiplier would work good as long as it fits where you want to put it, might be the best way to go actually .

3/4 to 1/2 adapters are scary though. I really dont like using them if it can be helped.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I have a proto J620AB, built like a tank. I get it calibrated every year, always good. Use a Milwaukee cordless impact to break loose or dewalt both go way over 1000ft lbs.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Issue with the torque multipler is they seem to output in 3/4 drive, so I need a set of 3/4 sockets. This seems to nearly eat up all savings vs a 3/4 wrench.

The idea of the 3/4 wrench was to step down to 1/2 drive for my sub 400ft/lb work, and get a set of 3/4 sometime in the future. This gets me basic functionality now, with ability to grow in the future. After doing some higher torque 1/2 nuts, I'm thinking anything over 250 I may just grab that sweet 40" long leverage.


I will also look for used EBAY options. I could check them on the snap on truck for basic accuracy. However if they need adjustment, service could evaporate my savings.

 

[TobeyA]

Most likely overkill, unless you're doing heavy industrial work, but they do make hydraulic torque wrenches. When you need 800+ ft-lbs.

 

[Snapped-off]

I like the PI split beam that breaks down in the case. My ¾" and 1" wrenches are dial type.

Most ¾" - ½" reducers will twist off around 480 lb-ft fyi.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

+3 on a torque multiplier. I have a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter I use with mine. Not always the optimal solution, and not frequently used, but it saves the bacon.

 

[Shoreline_]

Doesn't a torque multiplier compound error?

 

[Jlarson]

We have mostly Proto for our bigger wrenches. I do want a 3/4" techangle just because tho lol

 

[pbon]

Would either of these work? If not urgent, keep looking for a deal. I found one a few years ago posted in GJ for a 3/4 split beam that does around 400 lbs.

Precision Instruments M2FR100F 3/4 in. Drive Split-Beam Torque Wrench with Detachable Head, 130-400 ft/lbs.

Precision Instruments M2FR100F 3/4 in. Drive Split-Beam Torque Wrench with Detachable Head, 130-400 ft/lbs.

www.cpooutlets.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079Z25Q8K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[theoldwizard1]

When you are above 300 lb-ft (250 for us whimps) your torque wrench better have a handle extension !

 

[Steve_P]

Doesn't a torque multiplier compound error?

Yes. If the wrench is off 3% and it's a 5:1 multiplier, then you will be off 15%. We primarily use Proto torque wrenches at work, industrial setting, and they have some giant ones, some are 6'+ long- although I'm not sure they're Proto. The mechanics also use torque multipliers when they're down in a hole and there is no room for a longer wrench.

 

[RedneckWelder]

the ones in your links, particularly the first one with the breaker bar handle, is the way to go. Easy to store in the toolbox and works very well PLUS it’s a little longer than the one piece ones for leverage. You can also get tubular wrench adapters IIRC to use in place of the ratchet head For low pro applications

I use one many times a week usually.

 

[CoreyB]

I went through this dilemma when I was working at Porsche as center lock wheels torque to 600Nm(450ft/lb) and I got tired of using the shop beater we had.

I went on ebay and found a secondhand, but unused Stahlwille 730/65. These are split beam and use insert tools. The one in question uses a 14x18 insert so you can use whatever drive size based off the insert. I bought mine with a 735/40hd(3/4") head included as I was mainly using it for wheels. Make sure to get the hd head as they sell a regular 735/40 head that can't handle the top range of the wrench. You can add a 1/2 head to it and literally an entire catalog of other tools/inserts. Think I got it for under $400.

One direction it's a torque wrench, the other it's a breaker bar so that was the draw for me.

Here's a few pictures of mine.





You can score them used on ebay. Here's one on EBAY for a decent price with a head already. They are built like a tanks so a used one wouldn't phase me.

 

[crewchief888]

4X multiplier
1/2" dr input 3/4" dr out
rarely see anything above 1000 ft/lb

 

[KnurledNut]

Multipliers can be invaluable, but sometimes you have to get creative with where to support the handle reaction load.
I would find this cumbersome and time consuming on an automobile up on the lift.
They are also bulky which limits access and require crunching some numbers.
Finding a high quality used torque wrench is worth the wait in my opinion, even if it needs calibrated.

 

[rmack898]

Some multipliers will have the output rotation the opposite of the input rotation, so you need to ensure your torque wrench will work in both left and right rotation.

 

[Belanice]

Breaker bar + digital torque adapter + ratchet adapter
I use these two for anything over 130 ft-lb.

 

[brownbagg]

mine are proto. got two of them, bought both in a pawn shop under $200

 

[RedneckWelder]

Multipliers can be invaluable, but sometimes you have to get creative with where to support the handle reaction load.
I would find this cumbersome and time consuming on an automobile up on the lift.
They are also bulky which limits access and require crunching some numbers.
Finding a high quality used torque wrench is worth the wait in my opinion, even if it needs calibrated.

My main issue with multipliers and their fancier cousins the hydraulic and pnuematic torque tools is finding a good reaction surface and room to use the tool. I can’t imagine much of either available for automotive applications where you have to worry about damaging the car as well.

 

[tool_scrounge]

I bought a used Proto 100-500 ft-lb for pretty cheap. I have rarely used it. HOWEVER, all of my friends have borrowed it

 

[Steve_P]

OP, you probably have a large breaker bar, but Epstein's has the SK 3/4" X 36" breaker bar for $115

 

[charbar]

Id buy the PI with the breaker bar handle that you linked to. I cant see you finding anything else for less money that is any good. Unless you go used.

You definitely want the breaker bar handle. Its nice to have a long *** breaker bar that you dont have to worry about breaking and smashing your face. (like a 1/2" with a giant cheater pipe)

 

[u2slow]

Issue with the torque multipler is they seem to output in 3/4 drive, so I need a set of 3/4 sockets. This seems to nearly eat up all savings vs a 3/4 wrench.

How small a fastener are you torquing that tight?

Isn't 3/4" drive default beyond 1-1/16"? That's all I have... I use an adapter in the first place.

 

[crewchief888]

How small a fastener are you torquing that tight?

Isn't 3/4" drive default beyond 1-1/16"? That's all I have... I use an adapter in the first place.

i have 1/2" dr sockets to 1 1/2" my 3/4" dr starts at 3/4"

 

[crewchief888]

My main issue with multipliers and their fancier cousins the hydraulic and pnuematic torque tools is finding a good reaction surface and room to use the tool. I can’t imagine much of either available for automotive applications where you have to worry about damaging the car as well.

only time i use my multiplier is removing/installing hyd cylinder piston nuts out in the field.
cyl rod in the vise, supported by a wood block, rod chained to the hitch/bumper, multiplier on the bumper

 

[2ndGearRubber]

How small a fastener are you torquing that tight?

Isn't 3/4" drive default beyond 1-1/16"? That's all I have... I use an adapter in the first place.

Axle nuts and pinions nuts primarily. 32mm+. M22 thread and larger.

Although my thought was eventually I could just use 3/4 as a safer 1/2 drive. Instead if fighting with a 30" wrench, a 40" wrench would make life easier. If im turning "+ 90 degrees" on a crank bolt, it seems like the 3/4 set would justify itself down to maybe 19mm? Assuming it all fits obviously.

 

[dchawk81]

Axle nuts and pinions nuts primarily. 32mm+. M22 thread and larger.

Although my thought was eventually I could just use 3/4 as a safer 1/2 drive. Instead if fighting with a 30" wrench, a 40" wrench would make life easier. If im turning "+ 90 degrees" on a crank bolt, it seems like the 3/4 set would justify itself down to maybe 19mm? Assuming it all fits obviously.

I'm trying to picture myself using a torque wrench on the pinions of my Mack. I don't see it fitting under there. That's when you just hammer it home with a good impact.

Maybe you do pinions where access isn't an issue?

I purchased mine almost exclusively for lug nuts.

 

[Wrench97]

I actually have down to 16mm 12 point in 3/4" drive if just for the old detroit 8.2l head bolts.

 

[Wrench97]

I'm trying to picture myself using a torque wrench on the pinions of my Mack. I don't see it fitting under there. That's when you just hammer it home with a good impact.

Maybe you do pinions where access isn't an issue?

I purchased mine almost exclusively for lug nuts.

That works until you see a newb use a 1" gun and shear the end of the pinion off.............................
It isn't easy but it is possible to use a torque wrench under there, even easier if it's a tractor and the 5th wheel moves out of the way.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I'm trying to picture myself using a torque wrench on the pinions of my Mack. I don't see it fitting under there. That's when you just hammer it home with a good impact.

Maybe you do pinions where access isn't an issue?

I purchased mine almost exclusively for lug nuts.

I do automotive. Raise the car up 8ft and you're fine.

 

[dchawk81]

I do automotive. Raise the car up 8ft and you're fine.

10-4. Semi on the ground here. I'd probably just run my MG725 until it stops turning and call it good in my case.

 

[dchawk81]

That works until you see a newb use a 1" gun and shear the end of the pinion off.............................
It isn't easy but it is possible to use a torque wrench under there, even easier if it's a tractor and the 5th wheel moves out of the way.

My 5th wheel doesn't move unless I completely uninstall it.

 

[Olafur]

Solved this problem years ago with 3/4" digital torque adapter -1000Nm. I might change my mind if I had to use it daily or more and buy torque wrench. I doubt it though. These digital torque adaptors are great tools and underrated here on G.J.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

So the culmination thus far -

Amazon warehouse deals came through with the breaker bar and torque wrench combo for 350! They also had some AWD tekton 3/4 metric sockets, and I got a 4" extension.

So I assume the new extension and the warehouse deals sockets will be fine. If the wrench is damaged in a way not deemed usable, I'll be hunting for that again.

Thanks all for your input.