Torque wrench storage

[Beerhippie]

My torque wrench cost $60. It lives on a shelf in the shop. It does what I need.

If I had a nice S-O, however:

 

[dchawk81]

My torque wrench cost $60. It lives on a shelf in the shop. It does what I need.

If I had a nice S-O, however:

You pay extra for SO because it's tough and you can store it in the leaky bed box with 2 inches of water and rust on the bottom.

 

[Rusted Nut]

Well, that explains why I can't find it. I knew they had a smaller wrench, but for some reason I thought it was 1/4" drive.

I use to have a HF 1/4” drive torque wrench, it broke. All my other torque wrenches sit loose in the drawer with ratchets, etc… They stay calibrated.

 

[Beerhippie]

You pay extra for SO because it's tough and you can store it in the leaky bed box with 2 inches of water and rust on the bottom.

Tell that to the wrench polishers with their foam-padded drawers in hydro-pneumatic suspension rollers....

 

[Theronswanson]

Blow minded case in the bottom drawer of my box.

 

[dchawk81]

Blow minded case in the bottom drawer of my box.

 

[Theronswanson]

Ope

 

[Beerhippie]

Blow minded case in the bottom drawer of my box.

A mind, when blowed, is a terrible thing....

Might have been said once by a US VP who wasn't reckoned to be the brightest bulb in the room.

 

[AJHD]

*Off-topic*

Picked up a CDI 752MFRMH on Zoro with a 20% off. It arrived today.

Have to say, I'm not terribly impressed. I'm sure it will work, but initial impressions are not great.

The desiccant package left a white powder everywhere, I had to wipe down the inside of the case and the torque wrench.
There is some discoloration just below the head. Although I'm sure it's cosmetic I will likely snap a few pictures and send CDI an e-mail about it.

Which brings me to the real disappointing part, the head. The ratchet mechanism feels cheap and terrible. I know it's an older 36-tooth design, but wow. Not a fan of the selector switch. The anvil is also loose and has some movement. I will likely ask CDI about this as well.

I wish there was an upgrade kit.

 

[Old Man Roger]

A mind, when blowed, is a terrible thing

Potatoe is correct if you add an s.

 

[dchawk81]

Potatoe is correct if you add an s.

Where does the S go?

 

[Old Man Roger]

Where does the S go?

Ask Dan Quayle.

 

[Beerhippie]

Ask Dan Quayle.

Someone else remembers... it was a strange time....

 

[Schurkey]

In open, unlatched blow-mold cases in the top drawer of the toolbox. They got used so much for about ten years years, that the "hinge" of plastic on the cases were degrading/tearing. Hadda tell folks to NOT close the case and latch it, just turn the torque down, set the thing inside and walk away.

These are Mac-branded, micrometer/clicker 3/8" and 1/2" wrenches purchased in the 1990s; and which aren't used that much any more. The others are "government surplus", kept in latched, metal cases, and hardly ever used--like once in five years, maybe.

 

[Snapped-off]

*Off-topic*

Picked up a CDI 752MFRMH on Zoro with a 20% off. It arrived today.

Have to say, I'm not terribly impressed. I'm sure it will work, but initial impressions are not great.

The desiccant package left a white powder everywhere, I had to wipe down the inside of the case and the torque wrench.
There is some discoloration just below the head. Although I'm sure it's cosmetic I will likely snap a few pictures and send CDI an e-mail about it.

Which brings me to the real disappointing part, the head. The ratchet mechanism feels cheap and terrible. I know it's an older 36-tooth design, but wow. Not a fan of the selector switch. The anvil is also loose and has some movement. I will likely ask CDI about this as well.

I wish there was an upgrade kit.

Here's the part number for the upgrade kit: QD2R75A or if you want the flex head: QD2FR75B.

 

[Snapped-off]

Blow mold. I don’t have a drawer big enough for my big one.

Looks to be a similar size to my little ¾" torque wrench, pictured next to the 1".

 

[Old Man Roger]

1 upper.lol

 

[AJHD]

Here's the part number for the upgrade kit: QD2R75A or if you want the flex head: QD2FR75B.

No thanks. The price tag is why I bought the CDI.

But, I'm returning the CDI and I will probably pick up an Icon to replace it.

The Icon feels like a $500 Snap On, whereas the $150 CDI feels like a $20 Pittsburgh.

 

[Chipm]

I just added a spring clip to my portable box to keep the torque wrench from rolling around.

 

[Sumboodie]

Most of them on a shelf, rarely used tools go there.

The couple I use often sit on my box in their cases or in my box naked.

 

[Sumboodie]

No thanks. The price tag is why I bought the CDI.

But, I'm returning the CDI and I will probably pick up an Icon to replace it.

The Icon feels like a $500 Snap On, whereas the $150 CDI feels like a $20 Pittsburgh.

I have the Gear Wrench versions. The 1/2" is pretty good. The 3/8" I'm not a huge fan of. I have to read the instructions any time I use it, it's not user friendly at all.

And after a torque it has to "reset" and takes like 10-15 seconds.
Was doing something with quite a few bolts and threw it back in the case in disgust and used my 25 year old Craftsman clicker. Done in the time that turd did 3.

The 1/2" doesn't have that delay and is easy to use. No idea why they didn't use the same setup.

Was almost $200 too.

 

[AJHD]

@Sumboodie I assume you're referencing the digital versions? I'll stick to click type and split beam. Already picked up an 3/8" Icon click type to replace the CDI I sent back to Zoro.

 

[PT Doc]

All torque wrenches in their cases, especially the 3/4”. I have been known to ns’s every now and then and wouldn’t want a precision tool to get bonked.

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

The 3/8” and 1/4” clickers are in their blow molded cases in a drawer in the tool box, the old CMan 1/2” bending beam is loose in the same drawer, I really only use it for lug nuts and such.