Wow. I guess if you want to know who makes the absolute cheapest tools, GJ is the right place to come. Otherwise, I'm reading a lot of misleading or just plain misinformation.
An engine rebuild on a subaru is $2-3k. You want to use the world's cheapest torque wrench? Do you realize this is (I'm guessing) an aluminum block, aluminum head boxer with known problems maintaining its head gaskets? OMG.
One poster says you only need to get close to 5ftlbs? Really? That's like 10%. On a TTY with a 180 angle reqt? Do you have any idea what this does to the head gasket?
On TTY bolts you torque everything snug, then torque again higher, then rotate the wrench thru a certain angle. If that second torque is off more than a few percent (Subaru is something like 30ftlbs, then 50ftlbs, then 180 degrees) or, in this case 1 or 2ftlbs, the resulting preload could be dramatically different.
Let's start this again. Is your HF torque wrench good enough to rebuild a Subaru engine? The answer to your question is no! The HF wrenches are not accurate enough. Their published accuracy is +/-4%. Frankly, I don't trust Chinese tech specs, so it could be not even that. You really need to be in the +/-2% region (within 1ftlbs). Based on Snap On's latest literature, I don't think I would do this with a clicker either. They tested their own clickers in the hands of normal techs and got pretty inaccurate results just due to poor technique (pulling too hard into and through the click). That was one reason for the early warning feature of the techwrench.
Then there's the angle. How will you do that? Do you have an angle gage? I assume the engine is out of the car and you have access to be able to rotate a wrench 180 degrees without ratcheting it. That angle needs to be good to about +/-1 degree. With a head gasket, over torquing one bolt is as bad as under torquing.
If you are building a 1970 chevy truck, use whatever torque wrench you want. If you are building a modern engine with a aluminum block, you better be able to torque accurately, turn angles accurately, and be able to inspect head flatness (within +/-.002") AT LEAST. Otherwise, don't waste your time. Just go buy a rebuilt engine.
If I were rebuilding engines I'd be looking for a used Snap On techangle (ATECH2FR100) on ebay. BIN prices are like $200. So maybe someone here can suggest the CDI version and see if they are any cheaper. Last I looked they were cheaper new, but just as much used and harder to find. Once you get it, walk onto a Snap On truck and ask the driver to check it's calibration. Should be under +/-2% from 20% -100% of it's range. These wrenches hold their calibration VERY well. Chances are it will be spot on. There are no springs that relax over time.
If you want to save $1000 on engine rebuild labor, you may need to spend at least half that on tools. I feel that if you spend 99% of that, you are still ahead of the game financially (by $10) and you've got new tools and skills you can use again. But I think a lot of guys feel this is a specialty, not worth doing once.
) I had a friend who used to work in a place where they calibrated just about anything. They tested low dollar clickers and they were all very accurate. Depends on if you can sleep at night. I did the head gasket on my '88 ****** GT with a HF torque wrench......it's still running. I sleep at night.