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Torx vs. the world

kc-steve

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Jun 22, 2010
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Kansas City
I think Torx Plus came out about the time the Torx patent expired. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! ;)

(Let's do this right, no one ever reads the post at the bottom of a page)

LOL, that could be true! I haven't had trouble with Torx but then again I haven't used them much either. Last time was when I replaced a starter on a Craftsman lawn tractor. I always make sure that fasteners fit properly before applying pressure. Even in the "Great 12-point Socket Debate," I rarely have trouble rounding corners because I am careful about fit.

And yes, I am also a "geezer." :D

Steve
 
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WildwoodChuck

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Aug 25, 2013
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Peru Indiana
I was a Locksmith at a State Prison for 6 years before being moved into Video Surveillance. I worked with fasteners everyday that no one on this side of the bars wanted out without a lot of work 1/4-20 3/8 countersink 9/32 breakaway head were used by the 100’s. Hammer and punch was usually how we got them out. T15 Security Torx with 5 layers of paint is pretty much the same way. The T27 Security Torx was better because we could drive the bit into the head and get the scews out.
 

CWP1616L

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The only time I like straight slot or Phillips, is if it's a Fillister head:

410iued4T9L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


images
 
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byoungblood

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Apr 6, 2011
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Berryville, VA
the only torx screws I can recal stripping are the ones on seatbelts.. The ones on the floor that stick through the bottom of the cab and get super rusty.

Usually I've never had issues with those because they tend to have a deep recess on the fastener, and they typically use a T50 or larger.

Only one I've ever stripped the fastener was one on the parking brake cable bracket a 1986 Mustang SVO I used to own. It used a shallow T30-40 pan head screw, attached to the shock brackets on the rear axle. So they probably became impossible to remove after about a month on the road due to the utter stupidity of fastener choice. To top it off, those were the ONLY Torx fasteners on the rear axle.
 

SJShaw672

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Jun 12, 2012
Messages
51
The last serious encounter I had with Torx bolts ended up with me removing Brake Discs with a sledgehammer :shocking:
 

Gmonkee

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May 9, 2010
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2,717
I have removed shallow torx/allen from uner the rubber mats of backhoes, some caked in wet mud for years on end. A very wet enviorment for any fastener.

I needed to carefully scrape all the dirt out of the fastener and then very carefully turn them out keeping the tool well set in it. These were rust pitted and some rusted rather tight in some cases. Only in extreme cases was the vise grip solution required. Taking your time and blowing out the dirt makes a big difference.

The badly damaged allen heads can be removed most cases with the closest size in torx, again done calmly and carefully. The do give a grip if its not too far gone.

Much like using taps and dies, calmly and carefully makes the distance. When you get frustrated things could go wrong.
 

jvitez

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Nov 30, 2009
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Location
Big Sky Country, Canada
I read somewhere that Phillips were designed to cam out rather than become "over tightened". I guess they do that, but getting it back out is quite the chore sometimes.

Correct! The Phillips screw was expressly designed to cam out to prevent over-torquing with power drivers for auto manufacturing.

Robertson head screws were expressly designed NOT to cam out, which is why a "real" Robertson has a slight taper to the driver bit vs generic "square drive." Real Robertson does hold far better. I can put a Robertson screwdriver into a Robertson screw, hold it so the screw is vertical facing down, and it stays put. Try that with a Phillips. :) I only use Robertson wood screws.

http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia....t-little-invention-of-the-20th-century-so-far

http://www.robertsonscrew.com/index.html
 

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littletoes

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Nov 9, 2010
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NE Washington
For wood-working, I love the Spax Fasteners. Many different choices too.

http://www.spax.us/

I'll use Robertson, Torx, or the "newer" style of philips that is a combo with Robertson. My deck is full of those, along with the Torx style. The drive well.
 

wafrederick

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Holton,Mi
Cadillac was the first to use phillips screws in cars.The older GM "W" body cars such as the Lumina,Regal,Cutlass Supreme,Grand Prix and the 1995 to 1999 Monte Carlos use a T60 torx bit for the front brake caliper brackets and they are very tight.Have to use a breaker bar with a cheater bar just break them loose by hand hearing a loud snap when they come loose.
 

durallymax

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Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
918
Personally I like torx, torx plus and XZN. Many peoplr hate them but I think its because ghey have grown up with external hex their whole life.

Out of all the fasteners I hate slotted first, then phillips, then internal 6 point hex then allen. Of course the re e are others but these are what I run into in a day.

XZN holds a lot of torque but you have to make sure it is clean and fully engaged. Same thing with Torx. I'd be hapoybif they ditched Torx for all Torx Plus as it is superior and I see no nees for two styles to co exist. Its as annoying as havibg Sae and metric hex heads.

The only time I have stripprd a torx plus is when I used a regular torx in in the T55+ bolts on a 4L60E bellhousing.

I have neve stripped an XZN or a Torx. I have run into torx heads that have been smashed though which causes issues obviously.

I do like that XZN Torx and Allen can alk be removed by simply tapping a multispline extractor into them. Ive only needed to do this on allens though as Ive stripped thousands of them.

Allen allows a little more angle on the ball headed drive tools and they generally have a deeper hole which helps the ball drives. I like my ball headed torx tools though too.

With the right toola torx is nice. I have a variety and love using them. The blue handles are torx plus. Our fendt tractor uses torx plus for the trim pieces so these drivers are nice for that. Most people ruin the plastic screws with a regular torx.

The Germans love Torx and XZN.

y2uqedy2.jpg




I broke all 6 points off my Lisle T40 trying to undo the bolts that hold the thermostat housing on my S70 Volvo. That ruined the bolts for a good Torx bit. The stupid thing is a couple of inches away the upper and lower half of the head are held together with the same M7 bolts that use a 10 mm socket.

If you were using the Lisle 1 piece sockets they are your issue. Those break all the time. You need some good two piece ones.






I read somewhere that Phillips were designed to cam out rather than become "over tightened". I guess they do that, but getting it back out is quite the chore sometimes.


yes they were designed to cam out and to protect the drive tool. Thus not wearing the bits out fast. Some companies like Wiha make anti camout phillips drivers.

Torx was designed exclusively to not cam out.




anyone run into the five point security torx yet? ran into some yrs ago on a lic. plate, saw the set from 8-60,had to have it, havent used one yet. and what about RIBE?


yes some injection pumps use them now.




I have removed shallow torx/allen from uner the rubber mats of backhoes, some caked in wet mud for years on end. A very wet enviorment for any fastener.

I needed to carefully scrape all the dirt out of the fastener and then very carefully turn them out keeping the tool well set in it. These were rust pitted and some rusted rather tight in some cases. Only in extreme cases was the vise grip solution required. Taking your time and blowing out the dirt makes a big difference.

The badly damaged allen heads can be removed most cases with the closest size in torx, again done calmly and carefully. The do give a grip if its not too far gone.

Much like using taps and dies, calmly and carefully makes the distance. When you get frustrated things could go wrong.

Exactly. Its all about patience and attention to detail. Knowing how your tools feel and when to stop. With both allen and Torx its important to clean the dirt out. I use a blow gun for the loosr stuff then a pick for the caked on stuff then I flush with pb blaster.
 
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wafrederick

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Holton,Mi
anyone run into the five point security torx yet? ran into some yrs ago on a lic. plate, saw the set from 8-60,had to have it, havent used one yet. and what about RIBE?

GM uses the 5 point secuity torx for the newer mass air flow sensors.VW does too.The Ribe,mainly VW and Audi that I know of whom uses the ribe fastenters.They use them for the headbolts mainly in their engines.
 

littletoes

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Nov 9, 2010
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1,244
Location
NE Washington
Let it be known, I like Torx too.
I think the quality of the tool makes a big difference.

DurllyMax-great set of drivers there! Don't think I've used or seen an XZN fastener, would like to see a pic of a tool.

Wife bought me a set of Craftsman years ago, when I first encountered Torx, small handles, and the quality isn't the same as Snappy or Wiha, which I've replaced most of those drivers with, although I still have them.

OK, I looked it up, I've heard it called "Tripple Square", never XZN...guess that's what confused me!
 
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Ratchet.

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Jul 30, 2011
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521
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Northwich England
GM uses the 5 point security torx for the newer mass air flow sensors.VW does too.The Ribe,mainly VW and Audi that I know of whom uses the ribe fasteners.They use them for the headbolts mainly in their engines.

i have seene plenty of the 5 point torx, and the pentagon fasteners, often on ABS pumps and the like. never had to undo one yet though.

Ribe is pretty much exclusively used by Italian manufacturers, Alfa Romeo, Fiat and Lancia mainly, you also find them used on some Saab's (the diesel engined ones as they used a Fiat sourced engine)

The fasteners used for some Volkswagen head bolts look like Ribe but are actually Polydrive, yes yet another type of fastener... :lol_hitti


Six_Spline_Drives.jpg
 

durallymax

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Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
918
Let it be known, I like Torx too.
I think the quality of the tool makes a big difference.

DurllyMax-great set of drivers there! Don't think I've used or seen an XZN fastener, would like to see a pic of a tool.

Wife bought me a set of Craftsman years ago, when I first encountered Torx, small handles, and the quality isn't the same as Snappy or Wiha, which I've replaced most of those drivers with, although I still have them.

OK, I looked it up, I've heard it called "Tripple Square", never XZN...guess that's what confused me!

Yea triple square/XZN. Im not even sure what the XZN stands for.

For what the craftsman pros cost you can buy Wihas. I used to have cman pros. I liked them but kept breaking tips. So I decided to stay with my German fetish and ordered a #2 phillips Felo Ergonic, Felo 550, Wera chiseldriver and Wiha microfinish. When I unwrapped them the wiha seemed the most plain and I figured id like it the least. I thought id like the Ergonic the best but I found it was actually too soft and made my hand cramp. The chiseldriver I figured I would like but it jusf doesnt fit my hands the way im comfortable when using screwdrivers. The felo 550 was for midget hands I felt. Suddenly the boring Wiha was my favorite. The handle just looks so plain and simple but the shape is perfect for my tastes. I moved all my cmans to my house for things around the house. I dont like using them now that Im used to my Wihas. Since I ordered a set of hd wiha drivers I ended up with an extra #2 driver so I took that one home since its what I seem to use most at home.

The wiha tips have a phenomenal fit as well.

I think the best part is that the #2 6" Microfinish Wiha is actually $1 cheaper than the Craftsman pro.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk 2
 

turdferguson13

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Jun 1, 2013
Messages
195
i have seene plenty of the 5 point torx, and the pentagon fasteners, often on ABS pumps and the like. never had to undo one yet though.

Ribe is pretty much exclusively used by Italian manufacturers, Alfa Romeo, Fiat and Lancia mainly, you also find them used on some Saab's (the diesel engined ones as they used a Fiat sourced engine)

The fasteners used for some Volkswagen head bolts look like Ribe but are actually Polydrive, yes yet another type of fastener... :lol_hitti


Six_Spline_Drives.jpg


I've removed head bolts with both torx and polydrive fasteners. Polydrive is definitely superior. Only thing that ***** is having to buy a socket just for that job.
 

theknurl

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Dec 18, 2010
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Location
SoCal
I read somewhere that Phillips were designed to cam out rather than become "over tightened". I guess they do that, but getting it back out is quite the chore sometimes.

BS, really???? you don't have a adjustable torque setting on your screw gun? or a depth stop on your drywall screw gun?

That's nice. Spend hours everyday on your knees driving decking screws and get back with us. Roberston or the "star drive" is the way to go, especially before impact drivers became so common.

you can work on your knees......
i'll use a Senco DS325AC
http://www.senco.com/ToolDetails.aspx?k=6Y0012N

i never knew impact drivers were new or uncommon:dunno:

and for those of you that like Robertsons because they stay on the driver even when held vertically.....

use a magnetic screwdriver they all stay on:lol_hitti
 

Conductor562

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Oct 2, 2012
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West "By God" Virginia
BS, really???? you don't have a adjustable torque setting on your screw gun? or a depth stop on your drywall screw gun?



you can work on your knees......
i'll use a Senco DS325AC
http://www.senco.com/ToolDetails.aspx?k=6Y0012N

i never knew impact drivers were new or uncommon:dunno:

and for those of you that like Robertsons because they stay on the driver even when held vertically.....

use a magnetic screwdriver they all stay on:lol_hitti

Well smartass, in your world where everything is pre-drilled, work is always at a comfortable height, and everything goes smoothly, I suppose Phillips is the ticket.

For the rest of us, where those things are not usually case and the ******* before you stripped the dog **** out of the cheap Chinese Phillips you're now charged with removing, or any of the other inevitable situations that appear to plague everyone except you happen, then yes, Phillips are a pain in the *** where a better fastener would have been fine.

Thanks for being a **** in an otherwise pleasant thread :thumbup:
 

Sureshot

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Bridge Creek, OK
Well smartass, in your world where everything is pre-drilled, work is always at a comfortable height, and everything goes smoothly, I suppose Phillips is the ticket.

For the rest of us, where those things are not usually case and the ******* before you stripped the dog **** out of the cheap Chinese Phillips you're now charged with removing, or any of the other inevitable situations that appear to plague everyone except you happen, then yes, Phillips are a pain in the *** where a better fastener would have been fine.

Thanks for being a **** in an otherwise pleasant thread :thumbup:

Well put:thumbup::beer:
 

durallymax

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Mar 11, 2011
Messages
918
BS, really???? you don't have a adjustable torque setting on your screw gun? or a depth stop on your drywall screw gun?



you can work on your knees......
i'll use a Senco DS325AC
http://www.senco.com/ToolDetails.aspx?k=6Y0012N

i never knew impact drivers were new or uncommon:dunno:

and for those of you that like Robertsons because they stay on the driver even when held vertically.....

use a magnetic screwdriver they all stay on:lol_hitti

Umm how old are you?

You realize phillips was invented in an era where adjustable clutches were not popular. That is why the fastener was designed the way it is.

Again, were talking about well over a 100 year period that these have been invented. So yes impact drivers are relatively new.

Magnets can be a pain. If you want screw holding tools look at Wiha. They have the magic ring stuff but their screw holding slotted and phillips are neat and never fail you as they physically grab the screw.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk 2
 

theknurl

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I designed aircraft fastener installation systems for a living.....so I know a bit about driving screws, nuts and bolts

Phillips are from the early '30s, not over 100 years ago

and they weren't designed to 'cam out either' that's how you ruin the head feature AND the tool

I don't use Chinese tools, screws or nails

my BMW R1150GS had Allens, Torx, Phillips and hex heads everything forward facing got replaced with 316SS Allens including all the Torx:lol_hitti

I never see Robertsons

even the smaller Simpson Titens are Phillips as all the drywall and decking screws I see

aircraft screws/bolts are Phillips, hex head, 12 point and a few others.....like the goofy slotted ones cut with a dished cutter then its rotated a bit in the head......under load you can't pull the tool out

if I just have a few drywall screws to drive, I use a CP 3/8" butterfly

doing drywall or decking i'd buy the Senco DS325AC with collated screws

:beer:
 
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