To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Tractors

Walkers

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
I drug home another tractor today, a Case 580 from 1972. This is a 5 year upgrade for me and my first tractor that is not older than me. In the background you can see my 1967 Case 530. Now I need to decide which to keep and which to sell. The 580 needs one cylinder resealed, and a shuttle repaired, the 530 needs two cylinders resealed. Should be moving them into the shop over the summer to get fixed.
 

Attachments

  • 420F4B2A-2BEB-44F5-AE5C-B9DB85512BDE.jpeg
    420F4B2A-2BEB-44F5-AE5C-B9DB85512BDE.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 184
  • DB3A796F-A6B7-473C-BE71-43F564CE5056.jpeg
    DB3A796F-A6B7-473C-BE71-43F564CE5056.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 183
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

BukitCase

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Messages
1,075
Location
Oregon
Walker, I thought your location sounded familiar; I remembered when you got the 530 (another SFT member) - I see your 580 has the factory 3 point hitch with extra hydraulics - mine's about the same vintage but came with the hoe; I found a 7' Gannon box with the same hitch yours has on it. Makes a decent combo with the box on back, I used mine that way to do a 200' square push-out, gave me an extra acre of level ground, took a 3-day weekend to move about 80 yards of clay.

If your 580 came only with the 3ph, does it have a PTO? I thought about looking for the parts to add a PTO to my 580, but that negates being able to put a hoe on the back so I just bought another older tractor. No loader, but PTO and a couple remotes, now I just leave the hoe on the 580 and swap tiller, flail mower, gannon box and a couple other implements (added a quick hitch for a bit more efficiency)

Point of all the rambling: your question definitely depends on YOUR needs - any powered implements will need the PTO, if you have much earth moving to do that box with the 4 way hydraulics works well as that hitch lets you tilt the blade in all 3 axes plus a separate control for rippers up/down.

I've yet to get into any drive problems with my 580, but cylinders aren't bad to re-seal; I've done 8 of the 13 on my hoe, I get kits from Equipment Parts Source
Equipment Parts Source

'bout all I got, HTH... Steve
 
OP
W

Walkers

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
Nice. How many hours on each?
Enough hours that neither has a working hour meter.
Walker, I thought your location sounded familiar; I remembered when you got the 530 (another SFT member)

'bout all I got, HTH... Steve
Steve, good to hear from you. I don’t go to SFT much any more, they got stuck on politics in the last couple years and don’t build much any more.
This is my 4th tractor, and the only one that doesn’t have built in lift arms and a PTO. I have never used the PTO, so it is more of a nuisance to me. I only move dirt around I have a case/davis D130 backhoe that I have been meaning to mount on my 530. I measured and found I could mount it on my 580 as well. I could probably sell the hoe and hire out any digging that I need and be money ahead, but it would be nice to have a working hoe again.
The two cylinders that leak on my 530 have rust pits in a ring around the rod, so they stay sealed.
I need to get rid of one of them to keep the peace at home.
 

BukitCase

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Messages
1,075
Location
Oregon
Know whatcha mean about keeping the peace - my diabolical solution was to do things for SWMBO that NEITHER of us coulda done WITHOUT the hydraulic helper(s) - Examples - she brings home 4 5-gallon vine thingys in AUGUST - we have heavy clay soil; it's brick in summer, mud in winter, and tillable for (only SLIGHT exageration) about 4 hours around 1 June...

I'd just finished "re-toothing" the 2 foot bucket on the 580B, I let her TRY to dig a hole for one of the vine thingys - she gave up after about 1/2 hour. I fired up the hoe, and even with the new teeth on the bucket it took me maybe 15 minutes to work loose a chunk of the "brick", which came out of the hole in one piece - I set that aside, did the other 3 holes right where she wanted 'em, drove to town and came back with bags of "potting soil", peeled off the containers and set the plants in the holes (loose soil below and around the root ball) -

Over the next year or two did similar stuff, transplanting some like a couple bamboo clumps that were 5-6 FEET across - also a few other similarly large flowering shrubs...

We now have 3 tractors, the 580B and 2 others, all around same vintage - I started to sell the one that DIDN'T have a nice slow low for the 6' tiller, her response was "Let's keep it for a spare"...

So now, the "spare" usually has the 6' flail mower on it about 2/3 of the time and a spray rig the rest, the Allis 160 (slow low option, tills whole garden in one pass, ready to plant) also gets used as a trailer mover, land plane (I've added top/tilt hydraulics), The low range on the Allis is geared so low I can (and have) idled it down in 1 low, put it in gear and WALKED beside a trailer I was moving to make sure the back end I couldn't see from the seat was actually going where I wanted it...

Again, point of all the rambling - "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" - might try SHOWING her why tractors aren't evil - worked for ME, but everybody's different so no guarantees... Steve
 
Last edited:

Leaky88

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2014
Messages
271
Location
Illinois (Temporarily)
Hi,
Hopefully I'm posting this in correct location.
I have the Tractor fever again. I'm surrounded by corn, and Tractors are plentiful. I live in rural area on 5 acres now and if He gives me enough time, I'll settle on 25 in Wyoming.
Like most things, I look around and ask myself: Do I really need a tractor? When I consider 5 acres, I say "sometimes", but
with 25AC it's a definite yes. I made of list of jobs I envision using for: General Lifting - dirt, engines, Mowing the 25 AC, Fence Post digging, snow removal.
I want a Diesel as well as the availability of parts should I need them. Neighbor in Wyoming says 4WD is a must. Farmer has all Green and says stay away from Orange. One thing I don't want to do is buy something that I'll wish I'd gotten this or that. I was hoping to invest no more than 10K.
So far I've seen the following objects:
JD 2440, JD 143 Loader, 52HP, Single Remote, 2700 hours, $9500
JD 3020, JD 46A loader, 70HP, $7900
JD 2355N, 1992, 2WD, $5K. Hours unknown due to smeared glass on Hour Meter according to Local Seller. Does not have a Loader, but "thought" maybe I could retrofit it with a Loader (245,175) since I've seen pics of 2355N's with loaders.

I'm open to any suggestions/advice/lessons learned. Some questions I have are:
Is there a source that will tell me which implements will fit on which tractors?
I'm not opposed to buying something and adding things like a Cab, Loader, IF I knew the "possible" upgrades I could do. Or should I buy one with Cab/Loader already intact?

Thanks.
 
OP
W

Walkers

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
Buy one with a loader, more expensive to add it after the fact. If you want a cab, then get one with a cab. If it has 3 point hydraulics, then you can pretty much fit anything with 3 point. A mower, or box blade being the most common.
 

Bretny

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
3,918
Location
Dutchess county NY
You should look at the issues JD is having and the owners of JD equipment have had with repairing there computer controlled equipment. I'm not sure if the models your posting even have much electrical though.

I do know that when my 1990 kubota needed a flywheel ring gear and there wasn't one in the US..I got it 3-4 weeks later. Point being for a 30yr old "orange" tractor parts where still available.
 

kj_mustang

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
1,213
Location
Harrisonburg, VA
Look at LS tractors if you have a dealer close by. Cheaper price than a lot of the other brands and still good quality. Love my 40 hp 4wd with loader.
 

bbxlr8

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
131
Location
Eastern PA
Well now - this got there quick... ;) Green, Orange, Blue, Yellow & Red

OP was sharing picking up older ones as projects. Depends on your use, budget, skills and time with either old or new

One thing I DO know is that any model tractor's parts are priced like they are made of gold!
Seems like used tractors are the about same these days

BTW I have Blue (old one) and Orange (new) Recommend you read deep into some of the forums. There are good & bad models in each brand and strengths and weaknesses in different lines and sizes.

You need to determine your uses and budget and go from there. I TOTALLY suggest going with a diesel and 3PH
 
Last edited:

Josh the IH guy

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2021
Messages
159
Location
West fork, AR
Personally, I would stay away from green, and not just because I bleed IH red. They are being sued by farmers all over the place. I looked REALLY hard at new tractors. I went everywhere, test drove, researched, plus hours and hours of research. I liked mahindra the best of all. All that said, I bought a 1978 tractor. They just dont make them like they used to. My 50 hp tractor is significantly heavier than the new tractors. In a tractor, heavy is good. Plus no def, and easy to work on with standard tools.

Get a diesel, and get a 3pt hitch at minimum. Those are standard on new models. Other things on my list were rear remotes, and a loader.

I have no regrets. I did...and then I added a cup holder. All good now.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Mikeske

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Messages
2,131
Location
Washington State
Thanks very much for inputs.
For anyone with a 2WD: What have you not been able to do, that you could have done with a 4WD please?
Get stuck in the mud just as fast with the 4WD. I had both and actually the 4WD gets stuck faster then the 2WD and I think it is oh heck it is a 4WD and they don't get stuck nope wrong again.
 

Leaky88

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2014
Messages
271
Location
Illinois (Temporarily)
In addition to question on 2WD and 4WD.
Is there a max “HOUR” limit I should go when buying?
What is considered HIGH hours? This # seems to be all over the spectrum even with tractors of same year.
 

finn

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,345
Location
The UP, God's country
My tractor is 4wd. Typically, I like to run in 2wd on hard surfaces. Without fail, if I forget to slip it into 4wd for doing dirt work on any type of soft surface, it quickly lets me know as it starts spinning the rear wheels.

Mud is the extreme case. It’s all but useless in 2wd in the mud.

It’s a compact 40 hp tractor with a cab and loaded tires. Probably weighs around 4500- 5000 lb, maybe a little more with the loader and box blade.

Anyone who says 2wd will do the work of a 4wd lives in an alternate reality, or never leaves the pavement.
 

bbxlr8

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
131
Location
Eastern PA
"Anyone who says 2wd will do the work of a 4wd lives in an alternate reality, or never leaves the pavement"

Agree - I have 2wd w/ big turf tires on my smaller tractor with a 60"mmm for grass cutting. Without fail, I get stuck every sping even on flat areas. The slightest bit of freeze/thaw a couple of inches down and it's game over.

Off-roaders will tell you that anything can & will get stuck, 4wd just gets you farther in! ;)
 

kj_mustang

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
1,213
Location
Harrisonburg, VA
Another thing with smaller size tractors is the point above that Josh made about the weight of a tractor. If you are going to be doing a lot of work with a loader, you will need the tractor to have enough weight to effectively get full scoops. If you try to scoop a bucket in something dense like gravel or dirt and you don't have enough tractor weight, then it will sit and spin the tires before you get a full scoop. Some of those small rental tractors with loaders are pretty useless for some jobs. One of the reasons I chose a LS tractor is it is one of the heaviest weight tractors in it's size.
 

XJSuperman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
3,088
Location
Central Iowa
You guys who keep beating the "JD being sued" dead horse need to get a better grip on what is really going on and how it applies. Right to repair has no connection with the fella asking about tractors from the 1960s and a little newer. He isn't buying a $400,000 farm tractor loaded with premium options and computers. And for the record, your brand new smaller CUT and SCUT tractors don't have the majority of that either. Don't forget Apple is being sued for all the same ****, and I'd bet good money a bunch of you are on Apple computers typing out your replies with your iPhone in your pocket. Guess that argument didn't stop you from buying those, did it?


The other advice on getting one with a cab or loader already on it was solid. Buying separate components in the equipment world is usually not as cost effective. That 3020 with the loader is a solid machine, so long as you aren't afraid to service and repair some of it yourself, it'll be a good machine. Plenty of power and weight to do acreage activities. Kubota makes a good utility machine as well, and an old IH machine will last and have parts available. If you don't need a loader, an old Ford 8n is hard to beat for cost and simplicity.
 

Josh the IH guy

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2021
Messages
159
Location
West fork, AR
I've personally never needed 4wd. I'm sure it would be nice, but I've never missed it. I've been in mud, and cut wet grass/hay. I've even drug tireless trucks across the field. I think a lot of that stuff has to do with the operator. If I could have 4x4, I would. But that's a lot harder to find on older tractors. 4x4 was added to newer tractors to help offset the weight reduction.
 

Retctddvr

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2016
Messages
119
Another thing with smaller size tractors is the point above that Josh made about the weight of a tractor. If you are going to be doing a lot of work with a loader, you will need the tractor to have enough weight to effectively get full scoops. If you try to scoop a bucket in something dense like gravel or dirt and you don't have enough tractor weight, then it will sit and spin the tires before you get a full scoop. Some of those small rental tractors with loaders are pretty useless for some jobs. One of the reasons I chose a LS tractor is it is one of the heaviest weight tractors in it's size.
I'm probably just spacing... but I don't recognize LS tractor name. Can you help me with the whole name? Thanks
 

finn

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,345
Location
The UP, God's country
LS is a newer value priced tractor. They are owned by case new Holland.
Wrong. Case doesn’t own LS. LS Mtron is a Korean company that was spun off of LG Corporation a number of years ag.

In addition to selling compact tractors under the LG brand here, they produce tractors for other manufacturers, notably New Holland, and I presume, it’s sister company, Case.

So, no, Case doesn’t own LS.
 

Prospecter

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2015
Messages
2,443
Location
Maine
I've had both 2 and 4wd. 4wd is especially helpful in snow and with a front end loader. 2wd doesn't steer quite as well. Using your rear brakes to help steer offset this. Also, a lot of older tractors use car tires on the front wheels, rather than the ribbed ones. The ribbed ones help with steering and the car tires float better, IMO.
 

Josh the IH guy

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2021
Messages
159
Location
West fork, AR
Wrong. Case doesn’t own LS. LS Mtron is a Korean company that was spun off of LG Corporation a number of years ag.

In addition to selling compact tractors under the LG brand here, they produce tractors for other manufacturers, notably New Holland, and I presume, it’s sister company, Case.

So, no, Case doesn’t own LS.
You are correct. I misspoke. LS makes lot of the tractors for CNH. Regardless, they are the same tractor. A 50 hp LS, case, and new holland are the same mechanically. They have different pain and trim. They are not owed by the same company, they are just in bed together.
 

Retctddvr

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2016
Messages
119
LS is a newer value priced tractor. They make a lot of the tractors for case newholland.
Thank you, also Bucketcase.. so I looked up LS and they look like good tractors. I especially like the fwd/reverse pedals. When I shopped for a tractor in 2007 I looked primarily at orange and green, the pedals were a primary factor in choosing green. The orange brand's rev. pedal which requires moving foot to physically step down seemed very clumsy. I bought the smallest green scut (2305 model) and have never regretted it.

My best attachments: bucket and bucket teeth, forks (spends almost as much time on tractor as the bucket), backhoe, posthole digger.

Being small, light weight, and narrow the operator needs to go slow and be cautious, but with care the 2305 will do just about anything. The bucket picks up a full bucket of gravel or dirt, engage 4-wheel drive before driving into the pile. The bucket will carry 8 60 pound bags of concrete. I have dug out tree stumps, 8" diameter cherry trees (using backhoe), pulled 100' long downed fir trees out of the woods, moved engine blocks with forks, pulled old fence posts, carried rolls of chain link fencing, dug post holes.

I only have two acres so a larger tractor would be rather impractical, but this tool has made all the difference in caring for my place. It has also been indispensable in and around my shop. Just my 2 cents.
 

ZRX61

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
Don't forget Apple is being sued for all the same ****, and I'd bet good money a bunch of you are on Apple computers typing out your replies with your iPhone in your pocket. Guess that argument didn't stop you from buying those, did it?
Never owned an Apple product & likely never will. I do have a $43 Android from WallyMart though & my bill is around $7/month
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom