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Trailer Jack is too long

ZSK

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
13
Location
Jacksonville, FL
I need some advice on how to shorten a trailer jack, if it is possible. I recently rebuilt the tongue of a neighbor's trailer. Part of the process was mounting a new weld on Reese Trailer Jack.

I used this model:

https://www.reesetowpower.com/products/trailer-jacks/square-jacks/square-trailer-trailer-jack-8-000-lbs/USX3uVM!Va6aHkvKOsw4wiBozH5Qt|fiWmTP0QzZD0Y=

Before mounting, I checked to make sure I had enough lift height but didn't think to make sure I had enough ground clearance. I set it up by measuring with my truck, but the normal tow vehicle sits lower. Lower enough that the foot of the jack will drag on the ground once in a while.

I was able to remove the drop foot and trim some of the inner tube off but when hooked to the tow vehicle there isn't enough room to remove the foot.

I believe that I can just cut the length of the outer and inner square tubes and then re-drill the pin hole higher for the foot, but I wanted to see if someone has already done this or has a complete exploded view of the jack.
 

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Flat Thunder Channel

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2020
Messages
402
Location
Ohio
I recommend mounting it so it can swivel. Check on this video on my YouTube channel. We hook up an enclosed trailer to a tiny tractor. You can see how the jack pivots. This style of mounting should remedy your issue. The hookup is around 45-50 seconds into the video. It is easier than a picture.

Video Link:


Cheers,
 

Bogie1632

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Feb 18, 2018
Messages
1,303
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
Since it's an adjustable drop leg why not cut it back off, raise it up, and reweld to get your ground clearance? Anything above it? I've had to do that a couple times on jacks. I'd also get some good measurements with it hooked up to the normal tow vehicle so when your adjusting you can set the trailer to that height with a jack and stands.

V/R
Bogie
 

The Cobbler

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Oct 24, 2013
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25,823
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Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
measure how much you want off. take the jack apart. cut the tubes (might have to shorten the screw too. if you do, I suggest putting a dab of weld on the end of the screw so it can't be screwed out of the nut. from the factory the threads will be squashed or somehow damaged so it wont unscrew .
it's an easy job.
 

csp

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Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
If it were my job to do I'd cut the welds with a cutting disc on an angle grinder and reposition the whole thing.
 

bradpac

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Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
721
Location
Central TX
Why not just cut the whole jack body off and mount it higher?

On my trailer I cut up a an old receiver hitch and used it for a crossmember and put a 2" square tube on my jack so it can be removed if needed.
 

zer01

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2009
Messages
366
Location
Michigan
Raise the height of the hitch ball on the tow vehicle where the problem exists. You can get hitches that raise the ball height very easily. Or cut it off and reweld it in a better location. If the trailer is riding level when hooked up to the tow vehicle, move the jack. If the trailer is nose down, raise the hitch ball.
 
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ZSK

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
13
Location
Jacksonville, FL
The hesitation to cutting off the whole body off is only from a time stand point. I put about 16" of weld on it:shocking: If I can shorten the jack by three or four inches, I think I can accomplish that in less time and leave an overall more compact package. If I can't shorten the jack safely and retain proper function, then the option will be to cut it off and position it higher.

It previously had a pipe mounted swivel jack that tore the tongue when it was overloaded, we settled on a fixed position jack.

The coupler sits at 21" vs 17" linked in the google search, a different drop/raised hitch might help on the tow vehicle.
 

bdbecker

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Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Messages
5,547
Location
Iowa
The hesitation to cutting off the whole body off is only from a time stand point. I put about 16" of weld on it:shocking: If I can shorten the jack by three or four inches, I think I can accomplish that in less time and leave an overall more compact package. If I can't shorten the jack safely and retain proper function, then the option will be to cut it off and position it higher.

It previously had a pipe mounted swivel jack that tore the tongue when it was overloaded, we settled on a fixed position jack.

The coupler sits at 21" vs 17" linked in the google search, a different drop/raised hitch might help on the tow vehicle.

I doubt you can disassemble a jack, cut it down, and reassemble it faster than you could cut and blend a few welds.
 

kald

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Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
671
Location
Central Fl
I'm in the remove and reposition crowd.
If shortening goes wrong then you will have a lot more time and money.
 

TMcCay

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Jun 5, 2011
Messages
1,057
Location
SW. Oklahoma
I will second the getting a swivel jack. On my trailer the I bent the jack pulling out of a drive with a big dip and caught it. Never again! Bought a swivel jack and will not have to worry about that happening again.
 

sanddan

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Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
Cut it off and move it up. Make it a bolt on mount so it's easy to replace if it were to get damaged. I recently did a similar install on my trailer.
 

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Flat Thunder Channel

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May 4, 2020
Messages
402
Location
Ohio
I will second the getting a swivel jack. On my trailer the I bent the jack pulling out of a drive with a big dip and caught it. Never again! Bought a swivel jack and will not have to worry about that happening again.

The one shown in the video link is a bolt on swivel jack. It arrived at this state because we bent the original straight jack. I think a bolt on swivel jack is the best solution. It saves a ton of time cranking the jack up and down, eliminates the need for welding, and can be easily replaced. Add one with a wheel on the bottom and you can nudge the trailer to help align on hookups.

Our boat jack is the same style and it has survived 20 years of cranking up and down a 6000 plus pound boat. Only real problems is we sheared the pin off the top bevel gear blocking the trailer a time or two! :thumbup:
 

Jack Olsen

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Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
I had a problem like this with my little camper. I wish I remembered exactly how I addressed it. I know I cut the outside tube shorter, and (maybe) changed the length of the threaded rod inside. It's not a very complicated mechanism.

Later, I replaced the handle at the top with a welded-on 1/2" socket on the top so I can use the same speed wrench (or battery impact gun) on the levelers for the camper.

Not a great picture. It's from when I was making a tongue box.
 

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