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Trailing arm bushing tools

2ndGearRubber

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I don't like doing trailing arm bushings, due to tooling and the condition of the vehicles. However it seems to becoming more common

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Normally I cannot fully remove the arm from the vehicle. It simply is not practical due to the condition of the vehicle, I'd be replacing every single control arm attached to the arm. So I will typically be working with the arm drooped down from the suspension, either suspended on bungee/straps or hanging from a shock/control arm. For removal, 498 air hammer, easy. On the older hondas with the deeply tapered arm I would just beat them back in with the 498 hammer. The outer shell of the bushings were thick enough to survive this, and removing anything else was typically not an option. Didn't look that pretty, but I gave a pretty big discount to use the technique and people got their bushings changed.


With the bushing above I cobbled together my C-frame socket press, ball joint adapters, and adapters from my bushing press kit. Very messy, very wobbly, took 4 hands which weren't always available, and needed 4+ attempts per bushing to get things straight. A ball joint press didn't have the throat required to fit around the arm to get things started. I have a normal Astro/otc sized one, and the Astro Goliath which is taller but with no additional throat. A normal sized ball joint press with more throat would not have worked, I need both the throat depth and the total height to be larger to deal with these bushings.

Is there a better method or more universal tool? I try not to blow people out of the water replacing these things, but to make things easy by fully removing the arm you're risking brake lines, hoses, control arms, other bushings, frozen hardware, subframe damage, etc. Things get pretty risky unless I go through and just blow everything apart with the torch. Which is nice, but $$$, so not my preferred method.

Mostly hondas, fords, subaru - would be my guess of primary usage. I'd hate to buy individual tools, probably wouldnt be cost effective.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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I realize this is for Ford and Volvo but maybe it might work for other makes of trailing arm bushings. You might be able to fabricate something similiar

I did consider buying some plates of steel and fabricating something similar.
 

Zewnten

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I did consider buying some plates of steel and fabricating something similar.
I think it would be very easy to copy and give you an idea of its effectiveness. I use something similar though on a much larger scale and it simplifies a lot.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Could you misuse something like a hub-grappler?..... mixed with some conduit/pipe fittings?

-Ryan

I think you could to remove for sure.

I do have a hub grappler style tool, I'll look at the forcing screw and what it might take to make that work. The main issue is these bushings don't have a center hole. If they did, I have solutions for that.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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2ndGearRubber

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Am I crazy to think a big *** posi-lock or 2 jaw puller could accomplish install? Removal will always be an air hammer or torch job.
 

rust in the eye

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What about destructive methods for removal (sawzall through the outer sleeve) and freezing the new before install?
 
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rust in the eye

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2ndGearRubber

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What about destructive methods for removal (sawzall through the outer sleeve) and freezing the new before install?

I suppose I could freeze them, it's more so getting them driven in straight. Even if they're halfway into the arm a 498 hammer could finish the job.

I think the Matco ball joint press has too narrow of a throat. I did confirm the CalVan socket press I used has a 2.5ton capacity, so I think I have a lot of options.
 

elcom

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I recently replaced the trailing arm bushings in a 1995 Acura Integra. Used a tool that I bought on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C4L6PT78/?tag=atomicindus08-20).

Short story: stay away.

To work, these tools have to be positioned just right and it is very difficult to position, even with two people working on it.
Perhaps it is easier if you have the car up on a lift; we were working on jack stands.

Maybe a model-specific tool that is well-built would work better.
 

Firebrick43

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For the subaru's there is a snap on kit that is not to terribly expensive and the press sleeves are better made and easier to lineup/hold while using than the universal chinese kits.

BJP1-BKS and BJP1-BKS2 covers the horizontal and vertical bushings on most of the Subarus (except the BRZ?)
 

leadfoot415

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Just replace the whole arm... guessing you are seeing lots of 13-19 escapes with separated trailing arm bushings. The blue potato released the trailing arm w/ the forward bushing in a lower level design, previously only available with the whole 5a968/5a969 knuckle, now serviced as a cv6z-5808-a / -b part. Can have both arm's on in about 30-40 minutes working quickly, books out at 1.0 a side cp.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Just replace the whole arm... guessing you are seeing lots of 13-19 escapes with separated trailing arm bushings. The blue potato released the trailing arm w/ the forward bushing in a lower level design, previously only available with the whole 5a968/5a969 knuckle, now serviced as a cv6z-5808-a / -b part. Can have both arm's on in about 30-40 minutes working quickly, books out at 1.0 a side cp.

Mostly ford's and mazda rear design, and subarus. The escapes are tearing in my area, but until they separate completely they don't fail inspection and thus people would rather throw tires at the problem.

I think the aftermarket makes those arms, as I've seen that replaceable design before.
 
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