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Travel Trailer plug outlet help.

galute

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I upgraded my travel trailer yesterday and have to relocate my trailer parking area to the other end of my shop so I will have more room. I need a 50 amp 240 volt circuit to plug it into. Total run length is going to be 65 feet from the breaker to the plug. From the research I have done I need a 6-3 wire. Travel trailers do not use 240 volts. Basically it will be broken down at the plug to 2 120 volt 25 amp circuits for the trailer to use. I understand that. The question I have is do I really need 6 ga wire for a 120 volt 25 amp circuit? Thanks for any help guys.
 
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pattenp

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Your number of amps are not making sense the way you are stating them. A 240V 50A circuit has two 120V legs at 50A each. You don't divide the amps when stating it for 120V. So the cord from the outlet to the trailer is supplying 50A to the trailer. The trailer should have its own circuit panel which divides the power to multiple lower amp 120V circuits. The circuit to the outlet and cord from the outlet to the trailer needs to be sized for 50A. Provided I'm understanding correctly that the trailer requires a 50A power connection.
 

JoeFin

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My trailer uses a 30 amp 120 volt circuit - but then again it is only 26'

Calif. Code requires GFIC for Trailer Parks - but if its just "Storage" - keeping the batteries charged and what not you can just buy the 3 prong adapter and run it off any old 15 - 20 amp receptacle circuit you have available.

The larger RVs do take 50 amp 240 volts and no it does not have to be GFIC but it does have to be a 4 wire connector. If your going to run it in conduit you would want #6 wire in 1.25" conduit
 
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galute

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Your number of amps are not making sense the way you are stating them. A 240V 50A circuit has two 120V legs at 50A each. You don't divide the amps when stating it for 120V. So the cord from the outlet to the trailer is supplying 50A to the trailer. The trailer should have its own circuit panel which divides the power to multiple lower amp 120V circuits. The circuit to the outlet and cord from the outlet to the trailer needs to be sized for 50A. Provided I'm understanding correctly that the trailer requires a 50A power connection.

Ok, I understand now. I need to treat the trailer as a 50 amp sub panel run to the main panel in my shop. For some reason I got stuck on the individual circuits in the trailer hence the reason I couldn't understand the need for such a large gauge wire. Makes perfect sense to me now. Thank you.
 
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galute

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My trailer uses a 30 amp 120 volt circuit - but then again it is only 26'

Calif. Code requires GFIC for Trailer Parks - but if its just "Storage" - keeping the batteries charged and what not you can just buy the 3 prong adapter and run it off any old 15 - 20 amp receptacle circuit you have available.

The larger RVs do take 50 amp 240 volts and no it does not have to be GFIC but it does have to be a 4 wire connector. If your going to run it in conduit you would want #6 wire in 1.25" conduit

This RV definitely needs the 50 amp service. I'm going today to get some 6-3 wire. I understand the need for it now.
 

theoldwizard1

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Ok, I understand now. I need to treat the trailer as a 50 amp sub panel run to the main panel in my shop.
A typical travel trailer is wired with a NEMA TT-30P, 120V 30A plug. 50A wiring is over kill !

43274.jpg
 
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galute

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A typical travel trailer is wired with a NEMA TT-30P, 120V 30A plug. 50A wiring is over kill !

43274.jpg

This is not a typical travel trailer. It has 2 a/c units, an electric fireplace, a washer dryer, double fridge, ceiling fans along with all the normal stuff. It requires 50 amps.

I should also note it will be stayed in regularly while at my shop. My shop is 8 miles from my home and some nights we stay so late at the shop we just spend the night in the trailer. I am installing full hook ups for it. Water, sewer and electrical which I already have on the other end of my shop. This trailer is bigger and needs more room so I have to move my connections to the other end. The current trailer does use 30 amp.
 
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C96

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This is not a typical travel trailer. It has 2 a/c units, an electric fireplace, a washer dryer, double fridge, ceiling fans along with all the normal stuff. It requires 50 amps.

Definitely the #6 wire with all that running at 65’ :shocking:
 

theoldwizard1

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This is not a typical travel trailer. It has 2 a/c units, an electric fireplace, a washer dryer, double fridge, ceiling fans along with all the normal stuff. It requires 50 amps.

Definitely NOT typical !

I didn't know any campgrounds actually wired sites for 50A service !
 

Highbeam

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Definitely NOT typical !

I didn't know any campgrounds actually wired sites for 50A service !

You've got to get out more. I've stayed at several campgrounds that have the 50 amp service. My smaller trailer only needs the 30 amp but I have typically seen a single hookup pedestal with a 20 amp, 30 amp, and 50 amp available.

I know because I always shut off all the breakers, then hook up my 30 and then flip that breaker on.
 

2ManyProjects

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I upgraded my travel trailer yesterday and have to relocate my trailer parking area to the other end of my shop so I will have more room. I need a 50 amp 240 volt circuit to plug it into.

Are you ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN of that?

In the absence of further evidence, I would presume that your trailer is set up similarly to a typical "50-Amp" marine shore power system, which is in fact two 25-Amp/125V legs "in parallel", so to speak (but yes, normally out-of-phase). As such, these two 25A/125V legs add up (at the power pylon) to 25A @ 250V, NOT to 50A @ 250V. (Note: The 125V/250V designations, as opposed to 120V/240V, are another "customary" practice in marine systems; but we're really talking about the same things.) The "50A" nomenclature derives from "25A + 25A" (@ 125V in both cases). At least in the marine world (and I think in the RV world as well), that is what is commonly called "50A service" (especially when it comes time to pay the electrical surcharge on a transient slip :rolleyes2).

Total run length is going to be 65 feet from the breaker to the plug. From the research I have done I need a 6-3 wire. Travel trailers do not use 240 volts.

This seems to confirm that what you really have is what I described above: two 125V/25A circuits, which can be derived from a single 250V/25A circuit with a Neutral. For that, 10-3 w/g NM-B (or UF-B if any of it is in a potentially "wet" location, which would include exterior & underground) will do the trick.

Basically it will be broken down at the plug to 2 120 volt 25 amp circuits for the trailer to use. I understand that. The question I have is do I really need 6 ga wire for a 120 volt 25 amp circuit? Thanks for any help guys.

IF your RV is set up the way I think it is (I still recommend you confirm the specs for YOUR particular RV), then no, you don't need AWG 6, because NEITHER leg ever actually carries more than 25A. So AWG 10 will be adequate, barring any voltage drop issues due to the run length (I didn't run the calcs; but at only 65 feet, I would not expect a problem unless your "shore power" cord is excessively long).


Your number of amps are not making sense the way you are stating them.

Agreed; but not for the reason you probably think.

A 240V 50A circuit has two 120V legs at 50A each. You don't divide the amps when stating it for 120V.

Correct. But the assumption of a 50A/240V circuit in the first place was at best VERY questionable.

So the cord from the outlet to the trailer is supplying 50A to the trailer.

Yes, in a sense; BUT it is in the form of (2) 25-amp "feeds" @ 120V each. No one wire (conductor) EVER carries 50A.

The trailer should have its own circuit panel which divides the power to multiple lower amp 120V circuits.

Actually, it's usually a little more complicated than that. Once the power leaves the dockside power pylon, it really is treated as two separate 25A/120V services, which are kept segregated throughout. But there is (typically) also some means to force an interconnection between the two "banks" when "50A" service is not available, and a single 120V feed must be distributed to the whole vessel (which of course imposes limits on how much "stuff" can be run concurrently; but that's beside the point).

The circuit to the outlet and cord from the outlet to the trailer needs to be sized for 50A. Provided I'm understanding correctly that the trailer requires a 50A power connection.

It's "50A" in marketing-ese only. It's really 25A + 25A.


Ok, I understand now. I need to treat the trailer as a 50 amp sub panel run to the main panel in my shop.

Doubtful. As I said above, you should confirm the specific OFFICIAL requirements for your particular trailer (the manufacturer should be able to tell you this, if it is not already in your Owner's Manual). But the odds are strongly against you REALLY needing 50A @ 240V.

For some reason I got stuck on the individual circuits in the trailer hence the reason I couldn't understand the need for such a large gauge wire.

I'm 99% certain you were right the first time. The RV world is by no means known for spending even one penny more than absolutely necessary to build something flashy, before over-hyping the utter Hell out of it. So it would really surprise me if they did NOT follow the marine convention of calling the two 25A/120V legs of a 25A/240V incoming feed "50A".

This RV definitely needs the 50 amp service.

Yes, it needs 50 Amps -- at 120V. You said it yourself above: "Travel trailers do not use 240 volts." That makes all the difference.

I'm going today to get some 6-3 wire. I understand the need for it now.

Hold off on that until you are CERTAIN your trailer REALLY needs 50A on EACH of those 120V legs. I seriously doubt that it does.

This is not a typical travel trailer. It has 2 a/c units, an electric fireplace, a washer dryer, double fridge, ceiling fans along with all the normal stuff. It requires 50 amps.

Even so, 50A @ 120V is still only equivalent to 25A @ 240V.


Definitely the #6 wire with all that running at 65’ :shocking:

You have to remember... RV (and most marine) "appliances" are special-purpose devices designed to use MUCH less power than typical "home" appliances. Those two A/C units he mentioned will be rooftop units, similar to this:

http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/USA/RV-Products/climate/ac-display-page/?productdataid=74281

which will draw about 12 Amps @ 120V.

Similarly, that "double fridge" is NOT the big Sub-Zero you might have at home; but rather, something like:

http://www.dometic.com/enus/America...igerator-Product-Display/?productdataid=74419

which is all of about 13.5 ft.^3 capacity, and draws maybe 1/3 to 1/2 what a modest residential refrigerator does.

And so on.

 
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JoeFin

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Are you ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN of that?

I The "50A" nomenclature derives from "25A + 25A" (@ 125V in both cases). At least in the marine world (and I think in the RV world as well), that is what is commonly called "50A service" (especially when it comes time to pay the electrical surcharge on a transient slip :rolleyes2).



NOPE

The code articles 550 / 551 Trailers and Trailer Park electrical outlines only 4accepted "Power Supply Assemblies" and 50 amp 120/240 volt is 1 of them.
 

Speedy Petey

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In the absence of further evidence, I would presume that your trailer is set up similarly to a typical "50-Amp" marine shore power system, which is in fact two 25-Amp/125V legs "in parallel", so to speak (but yes, normally out-of-phase). As such, these two 25A/125V legs add up (at the power pylon) to 25A @ 250V, NOT to 50A @ 250V. (Note: The 125V/250V designations, as opposed to 120V/240V, are another "customary" practice in marine systems; but we're really talking about the same things.) The "50A" nomenclature derives from "25A + 25A" (@ 125V in both cases). At least in the marine world (and I think in the RV world as well), that is what is commonly called "50A service" (especially when it comes time to pay the electrical surcharge on a transient slip :rolleyes2).
OK, there is more to this post but this is what I want to correct.

A 50A 240v, or 120/120V, circuit is not, repeat IS NOT 25A + 25A. It never is. Not even in your marine world.
I have done 50A shore power pedestals and they are typical 50A 120/240V, 4-wire circuit.
125-250V is just the device rating. They are still for 120/240V circuits and feeders. All devices are are rated this way, not just marine.
You need to get out of the mentality that marine shore power wiring is somehow it's own special world of electrical wiring.

If you know of a 50A device that is 25+25A please show a link to it.
 

sberry

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Speedy,,, you get the feeling no one listens to this guy in the real world? I bet they don't let him have tools near or on his person. But the real kicker is it seems someone with such expertise in circuit design would have some concept of how a multi wire actually works.

I will give him some credit here for not recommending a number 2 cable this time and gasping for air while mumbling something about voltage drop..
 
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galute

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The way 2manyprojects explained it is exactly the way I was looking at it when I did my original post. Hence my question of is such a large gauge wire really needed. In reality, for > travel trailer use only<, it would work just fine if it was a direct wire into the trailer panel. Codes not withstanding on that. Since the trailer has an unbilical cord that plugs into a normal 240 volt 50 amp receptacle that receptacle needs to be wired with wire large enough to handle the rating of the receptacle and breaker to meet code. This is in case some doofus (like me) comes along and plugs in a high draw device like a welder into it I would be protected. Is this correct guys?
 

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The requirements for a welder may be different and the plug isn't the same. This is really a 50A service to the trailer. Most of the big loads are 240 and somewhat samer as an electric range, you have to be able to service the full load although its rarely used, oven on broil and all 4 burners on hi but,,,,,,,,, plus the average load or even heavy the service needs to handle unplanned and possibly unbalanced intermittent loads without adding significant voltage drop to the service conductors.
 

2ManyProjects

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NOPE

The code articles 550 / 551 Trailers and Trailer Park electrical outlines only 4accepted "Power Supply Assemblies" and 50 amp 120/240 volt is 1 of them.

Doesn't obviate what I said.


OK, there is more to this post but this is what I want to correct.

A 50A 240v, or 120/120V, circuit is not, repeat IS NOT 25A + 25A. It never is. Not even in your marine world.

The problem here is one of semantics.

This whole thing got off-track when the OP "assumed" he needed (and I quote) "a 50 amp 240 volt circuit to plug it into." And from there, almost everybody jumped to the conclusion that his trailer actually needs 50A @ 240V. While there is a slim outside chance that is actually correct (which I why I asked him to confirm the specs for HIS particular RV), it would be VERY unusual, especially in RVs. Larger and/or newer yachts DO sometimes use 50A @ 250V shore power; but that's a different animal. And as the OP himself also posted, his RV DOES NOT USE 240V. Hence, the whole "50A" designation is in the context of "at 120V". And since that 50A is effectively split between two (120V) legs, each of those legs is just 25A. If you want to blame this language usage -- which I fully understand would seem somewhat "nonsensical" to land-based electricians -- on the "marketing" reasons from whence it originally sprang, be my guest. But it has been that way for a l-o-o-o-o-n-g time.

I have done 50A shore power pedestals and they are typical 50A 120/240V, 4-wire circuit.

No argument. But that is NOT what I was talking about. As noted above, SOME yachts DO use 50A/240V shore power. And obviously marinas need to accommodate them, as well as those with lower requirements. But the very reason those pedestals are marked with BOTH voltages is because that is NOT always the case.

And besides, this is not about wiring up a generic power pedestal in a marina or RV park. The issue is what HIS trailer actually needs. And so far, there has been ZERO evidence posted to suggest that really is 50A @ 240V. As noted above, the OP even explicitly stated that his RV does not use 240V at all.

125-250V is just the device rating. They are still for 120/240V circuits and feeders. All devices are are rated this way, not just marine.

Again, no argument. But just because a dual-rated connector CAN be used for 240V application doesn't mean it necessarily MUST be. And in this case, it isn't.

You need to get out of the mentality that marine shore power wiring is somehow it's own special world of electrical wiring.

Not a "special world of electrical wiring"; just different semantics: "50A service" is NOT the same thing as "50A @ 240V service"

If you know of a 50A device that is 25+25A please show a link to it.

Try this...

I would be willing to wager heavily his trailer would be PERFECTLY happy running ALL of his AC electrical stuff to full capacity off two (opposite polarity) 30A/120V sockets on the power pylon, via a Y-adapter similar to this one:

http://www.marinco.com/product/reverse-y-adapter
167RYN-CMYK-03.jpg


to feed his single "50A" inlet on the trailer, which probably something like this (or equivalent NEMA SS2-50P):

http://www.marinco.com/product/50-amp-125250-volt-stainless-steel-inlet
6373EL%20w.jpg


(which can indeed "handle" 50A @ 250V, but is rarely called to do so.)

That would simply not be possible if the trailer REALLY needed "50A @ 240V".

[NOTE: Given the RV vs. Marine application, the connector styles MAY be somewhat different; but the underlying principles remain the same, regardless.]


Speedy,,, you get the feeling no one listens to this guy in the real world? I bet they don't let him have tools near or on his person. But the real kicker is it seems someone with such expertise in circuit design would have some concept of how a multi wire actually works.

I'm still waiting for you to come up with that "one credible, verifiable reference which states that the captive wiring on a plug-in device imposes any sort of legal limit on the current capacity of the host circuit."



The way 2manyprojects explained it is exactly the way I was looking at it when I did my original post. Hence my question of is such a large gauge wire really needed.

And the final answer on that still depends on what YOUR particular trailer really needs.

In reality, for > travel trailer use only<, it would work just fine if it was a direct wire into the trailer panel. Codes not withstanding on that.

I don't think "direct wire" vs. "plug & socket" has anything to do with it, really.

Since the trailer has an unbilical cord that plugs into a normal 240 volt 50 amp receptacle that receptacle needs to be wired with wire large enough to handle the rating of the receptacle and breaker to meet code.

This depends on a couple of things. First, is that REALLY a "normal 240 volt 50 amp receptacle" you need to plug into? That assumption is what started this whole debacle.

This is in case some doofus (like me) comes along and plugs in a high draw device like a welder into it I would be protected. Is this correct guys?

I'm really not certain of the code details here; but even if your shore-power cord does use something like a NEMA 14-50 plug, I don't think this is necessarily a problem. I think the controlling issue would be that the wire does not need to be matched to the receptacle, as long as said wire is still "adequately" protected by an appropriately rated breaker. Worst-case, if someone comes by and tries to plug in something bigger and more power-hungry than your trailer, the breaker would trip, and that would be the end of the story. No harm, no foul. Also, like the similarly "mismached" welder-outlet situation, labelling may also come into play here.

But this is not really the part I'd be concerned about in your case. As said before, the REAL question is the actual requirements of your trailer. Until and unless we really KNOW that, we're throwing darts in the dark.

All that said, if you WANT to go well into overkill territiry, and set up that receptacle so that it COULD easily supply 50A @ 240V, there's nothing stopping you except your wallet.


The requirements for a welder may be different and the plug isn't the same. This is really a 50A service to the trailer. Most of the big loads are 240 and somewhat samer as an electric range,

I guess you missed the several mentions (including by the OP) that HIS TRAILER DOES NOT USE 240V.

Have another one: http://www.groceries-express.com/images/80000\85000\00730\8500000730CF.GIF.
 
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Speedy Petey

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This whole thing got off-track when the OP "assumed" he needed (and I quote) "a 50 amp 240 volt circuit to plug it into." And from there, almost everybody jumped to the conclusion that his trailer actually needs 50A @ 240V. While there is a slim outside chance that is actually correct (which I why I asked him to confirm the specs for HIS particular RV), it would be VERY unusual, especially in RVs. Larger and/or newer yachts DO sometimes use 50A @ 250V shore power; but that's a different animal. And as the OP himself also posted, his RV DOES NOT USE 240V. Hence, the whole "50A" designation is in the context of "at 120V".
Regardless if it has any 240V loads, he requires a 120/240V feeder/circuit.
Two 25A 125V feeds IS NOT 50A, especially @ 250V. Where have you ever seen a 25A receptacle anyway???



And since that 50A is effectively split between two (120V) legs, each of those legs is just 25A. If you want to blame this language usage -- which I fully understand would seem somewhat "nonsensical" to land-based electricians -- on the "marketing" reasons from whence it originally sprang, be my guest. But it has been that way for a l-o-o-o-o-n-g time.
No, it is still NOT split into two 25A legs. Land based or not, this is not how it works.

I guess you missed that HIS TRAILER DOES USE A 240V cord.
He needs a 50A-120/240V circuit. This is what the cord on the trailer has. Period. End of story.
See:
The way 2manyprojects explained it is exactly the way I was looking at it when I did my original post. Hence my question of is such a large gauge wire really needed. In reality, for > travel trailer use only<, it would work just fine if it was a direct wire into the trailer panel. Codes not withstanding on that. Since the trailer has an unbilical cord that plugs into a normal 240 volt 50 amp receptacle that receptacle needs to be wired with wire large enough to handle the rating of the receptacle and breaker to meet code. This is in case some doofus (like me) comes along and plugs in a high draw device like a welder into it I would be protected. Is this correct guys?
 
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JoeFin

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galute

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Thanks. I haven't picked it up yet so I can't go out and look. I won't get it till the 12th after my F250 get's out of the shop. Part of the reason for so much confusion on my part. I left the manuals in the trailer at the dealer. I do remember looking at the chart inside the cabinet door. It is a little over 13000 pounds. I think that was empty.

They are not that hard to pull in the mountains. Just make sure your tow rig has really big fuel tanks. You will need it. I carry a 105 gallon drag up tank with a pump in my truck bed. It's much easier to pull into a rest area and refuel every 150 miles than it is to find someplace you can get that rig into that often.
 

2ManyProjects

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Regardless if it has any 240V loads, he requires a 120/240V feeder/circuit.
Two 25A 125V feeds IS NOT 50A, especially @ 250V. Where have you ever seen a 25A receptacle anyway???

Like I said, it's about semantics, and to some extent, how you think about it. To YOU, "25 + 25" cannot "= 50" because your training and experience more-or-less forces you to think of it as a single 50A load, which neither leg of the "25 + 25" arrangement can supply. But to the marketing mavens, that doesn't matter.

Look at it this way... Presume you have a standard residential 120V/240V load center with dozens of single-pole breakers feeding various 120V branch circuits. All very normal. For purposes of discussion, let's further presume that at least some of these branch circuit breakers are rated at 25A. Take any two of those at random. Now, for the $64,000 question:

How much TOTAL current (@ 120V) can you pull through those two circuits?

The answer, obviously enough, is 50A (with 25A coming through each breaker), because each breaker is feeding COMPLETELY INDEPENDENT loads, all still @ 120V. So you simply sum the outputs. If we took three such circuits, it would be 75A; four would be 100A, and so on.

Now, IF we were to attempt to feed a 240V load from these two breakers combined (and let's leave aside the fact that doing this from two single-pole breakers is obviously not code-legal), we would get either ZERO Amps (because they happened to be on the same side of the split-phase service), or 25 Amps max (because each leg is still limited to that figure). So, again TO YOU, this renders the entire setup "25A", not "50A"; and indeed, I DO understand that. But what I've been trying to explain is that the single-leg current limit is NOT what the (arguably technically incorrect in at least some contexts, if that makes you feel any better) "marketing-ese" usage is based on; it is based on the the TOTAL sum of all currents. And in marketing, "bigger numbers" always win.

No, it is still NOT split into two 25A legs.

Yes, it is. That is precisely the point, in fact.

Go back to our example above about the two randomly selected 25A branch circuits. Only this time, let's make it non-random, and DELIBERATELY choose two which happen to be fed from the same half-phase of the underlying 120V/240V service. Now use those two 120V circuits to feed the shore-power receptacle (with a common Neutral). Obviously, you could not draw 240V from this at all; but that wouldn't matter. Because "galute"'s trailer does not in fact use 240V anywhere, it would still be perfectly happy; and the trailer's various electrical loads would still hum along merrily, consuming (up to) 50 Amps total (25A from each leg) in the process. [Please note: I'm not saying this is the best (or even "proper") way to install such a shorepower outlet; but the fact remains that it WOULD work in this case.]

I guess you missed that HIS TRAILER DOES USE A 240V cord.

So they used an off-the-shelf part, because it was cheap and expedient. Why should this surprise anyone, especially in the context of the ever-penny-pinching RV industry?


The dealer already took the ad down for the one I actually bought but it is just like this one.

http://www.rvboatworld.com/Vehicle/DisplayAd.asp?id=248

OK... That, in combination with "BIMMERBOYZ" digging up the Owner's Manual, gives us some much-needed additional info to go on. And while much of the verbiage in that manual is less than precise, and filled with legal-ese and open-ended qualifiers such as:

"Actual 50 Amp 120/240 Volt panel will vary with options or changes to the recreational vehicle."

...there IS one potentially key piece of evidence: The illustration of your AC breaker panel shown on Page 134 (.PDF Page 136) shows a dual-pole "Main" breaker rated at 50A. Given that, it IS theoretically possible that your 5er could draw up to 50 Amps on either of those 120V legs (up to 100A en toto).

So if indeed your actual panel matches that illustration (I would suggest you check that ASAP), then the safe/prudent approach would be to install a shorepower station capable of supplying 50A per leg.

Thanks. I haven't picked it up yet so I can't go out and look. I won't get it till the 12th after my F250 get's out of the shop. Part of the reason for so much confusion on my part. I left the manuals in the trailer at the dealer.

Is the dealer close enough that it would be convenient to swing by and both pick up those manuals and check out how your actual AC panel compares to the one illustrated, before the "official" pick up date?


Well according to the owners manual, you don't have any 240v loads. But it obviously uses a 120/240v 50 amp shore power cord. I'd buy something similar to this. Which will require #6.
{mobile-device-specific link deleted}

Here is the corrected link:

http://homedepot.com/p/Connecticut-...-Breakers-GFCI-Duplex-CESMPSC55GRHR/100669936

Indeed, that would be a convenient way to do it.

And thank you for digging up the manual.

 
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galute

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Bald Knob AR
It is not practical for me to go get the manuals. It's a 150 mile round trip. In fact, it's not necessary. The trailer I have now also has a 50 cord and panel so I am quite familiar with what the plugs look like. I have never used it as 50 amp though as it doesn't need that much because I never installed a washer/dryer in it and it only has one a/c unit so 30 is plenty for it. I have always used a short pigtail adapter on the power cord to adapt it from 50 to 30 amp and used 30 amp at campgrounds and my shop. What the trailer has or needs is not the issue here. I was questioning the size of the wire needed to wire the new receptacle.
 

Speedy Petey

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
1,430
Location
NY State
So they used an off-the-shelf part, because it was cheap and expedient. Why should this surprise anyone, especially in the context of the ever-penny-pinching RV industry?
This is part of my whole point. I will no longer debate you over the 25+25=50 thing. You are set in your ways and OBVIOUSLY think you are right no matter what any professionals say to the contrary. It's not a matter of marketing mavens or any ******** like that. It's simple electrical facts.

Bottom line, this thing had a 120/250V-50A plug on it, THAT is the circuit and receptacle that MUST be used. On a two-pole 50 amp breaker.
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
You can understand the difficulty I was having with the explanation,, that part mostly my own fault though, that the cord end limits the legal max circuit it can be plugged in to.
I can see the difficulty explain multi wire to a retard but this isn't the case here. I am not a natural mechanic, it took a while for it and grounding to become a reflex.

I see the root of the problem is looking at 2 120V loads applied to a service as being 2 circuits, , the plug, the 50 doesn't know this, there is a reason to use multi wire above saving 1 conductor but to reduce the V drop. Kitchen counter tops especially when the run is long is a poster situation for this, 1/4 (or is it 1/2) anyway,,, the % drop using one 240 circuit vs 2 120's.
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
To the op the plan is fine. 6/3 wg circuit will serve way beyond what you will reali9stically run but also meets the intent of the circuit design.
 
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