Tried getting stuck manifold bolt out... Welded extractor inside

[inphx]

How did you make out?


I see in thread above a drilling guide....



Does anyone know of a kit that would have longer bits and a sleeve for my situation? It may not be 3" but it seems like > 2" ( Preemptively: that's what she said).





Im in a similar pickle on a snapped F250 manifold bolt as i was completing reinstall. In my case the "blind hole" the bold slides through before getting to the head is a bit down and i don't feel motivated to remove the manifold and do the job correctly...

 

[jzx100]

How did you make out?

hey, what ended up working for me actually was grabbing one of those carbide drill burrs from home depot, and kinda carving it out with a dremel.


This thing threw small chips of it right out, my idea was that i got the first 'hardened' layer off, and try it again with the carbide drill bit. After doing that the carbide drill bit cut through the bolt like butter. But my issue was that I wasn't straight on the head... Oh well. I just wanted a bolt there. I then helicoiled the new hole.

I have since sold the car to my brother, so it's his problem now.

 

[RoninB4]

This is just my opinion based upon a lot of experience with extractors. There are many different brands and the chance of them using different steels is great. They all "should" be hardened to an Rc hardness level well above 58-60 Rc so they'll bite into the fastener. I don't trust any of the extractors below 1/4" as I've broken many and had to drill them out with carbide. That's not fun either as there's a good chance of chipping/shattering the carbide cutting tool and making a real problem. Any decent extractor will NOT be cut with HSS or Cobalt, you'll end up work hardening the broken fastener at some point making it even more difficult to cut with carbide. Even with a carbide cutter a regular drill press isn't a good choice as you have no control over the cutting depth, especially when it snags or breaks through the fastener. My best results come from using a Bridgeport type mill with a quill stop and advancing the feed stop about .015 at a time while using compressed air to blow out the hole. Failure to blow out the hole can mean chips getting in the way.

I know this isn't what you'd want to hear but it's the safest way to ensure good results. Yes the broken stud might come out with a hand drill and a solid carbide cutter (not a brazed carbide tip) but the chances of creating a bigger disaster is too great. I wish you luck. JMO, your results may vary.

 

[Lassen Forge]

You may need to find xomeone who has an EDM and have them burn the tap out. Not cheap, but you get your head back in one piece....