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Trinco Blast Cabinet rant

dkmc

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I've got a Trinco Model 36/BP2 Cabinet and a 45ORC Abrasive Separator.
This pair has never worked right, and I find it aggravating.
The separator hose attaches to the bottom of the cabinet and is supposed to remove the abrasive from the cabinet and separate the dust and debris from the abrasive. Abrasive should end up in the bottom of the separator and dust and debris in the filter bag.

What actually happens is, most of the abrasive just collects in the bottom of the cabinet, and has to be emptied out of the bottom door shown in Pic 3.

I also suspect the design of the separator is poor, as a lot of abrasive ends up in the filter bag along with dust and debris, so the cyclone action is poor.
After looking at and studying cyclone designs, it's very obvious this Trinco cyclone is not even shaped similar, which I think is an obvious reason it does not work well. Frankly, my impression is that the cyclone separator was not "designed" at all, but simply thrown together to resemble a cyclone with little engineering employed. This is obvious by the way it DOES NOT work. Another curious feature is the damper located in the inlet to the separator. I can't see any reason to have a need to cut down the flow into the separator, as it already doesn't remove most of the media from the cabinet. Another point that makes me suspect no real engineering went into this design.

The shape of the separator shown on this page is not anything like other cyclones that are proven to perform well.
http://www.trinco.com/leftframe1.htm

I've owned this unit for years, and don't use it a whole lot, but it is frustrating when I do use it that the abrasive needs to be emptied out of the cabinet, then also what collects in the bag needs to be screened.
Extra work that should not be necessary.

My questions at this point are, what can I do to improve operation?
I am willing to modify the separator as needed to make it work as it should. For starters, I wonder if a smaller diameter hose between the separator and the cabinet would increase the velocity and help to empty the cabinet more efficiently?
I'm eager to hear any and all suggestions to get this thing working like it should. As a last resort, I'd even consider fitting a completely new cyclone of proven design if this one can't be made to work more efficiently.

Thanks for any help!


1.
IMG_20160608_212518.jpg


2.
IMG_20160608_212601.jpg


3
IMG_20160608_212533.jpg
 
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jlenander

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Hi DKMC,
Not sure if I have any answers for you, but I am interested since my cabinet does not have a cyclonic seperator.....only a shop vac.

I did read in the past about a separator that had an adjustable inlet. The documentation said that the inlet varied the speed of the air/abrasives as they entered the cyclone to adjust the size of what was seperated out (debris), and what was kept (reusable media). Have you messed with yours to see if it has any effect?

The current plan for mine is to try a dust deputy in-line prior to my vac....I hope this will keep the air clear and extend the life of the shopvac. This system will leave the media (and a good bit of debris, I'm sure) in the bottom of the cabinet.

Thanks,
Jon
 

OccupantRJ

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I see two things and know of more that may help you, as I had the same problems. First, shorten up and get rid of the droop in the abrasive hose to the separator. Next I would modify the trap door on the bottom of the cabinet hopper. I attached my hose directly to the trap door underneath inline with the fall of the spent abrasive. You can still use the trap door to change out media. Next, look at the blower wheel on the motor of the cyclone. When I first built my separator, I used what I had, which was a squirrel cage blower fan. Never did like I wanted it to. I lucked up on a blower at a yard sale that had an IMPELLER instead. Big difference in the amount of air moved. The bag looked like it had taken some ED meds.

The motor speed should be 3450 if it is slower. Beneath the blower wheel should be a piece of fairly large tubing protruding downward towards the cone. This along with the suction hose entering the cyclone on a tangent helps set up the cyclonic action. The bottom of my filter bag is open and has a heavy elastic band sewn around the perimeter. This allows the bag to be attached to a 5 gallon bucket to catch the nuisance dust. If you pursue these items I think you will see improvements.
 

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OccupantRJ

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I went and looked at the trinco drawings, and the design elements seem to basically be in place on the inside. One other thing I forgot to mention is that you MUST have an air intake in the upper part of the cabinet equal to the cross section diameter of the suction hose to provide make up air as the unit is running. Looks like maybe yours has it on the left side of the cabinet like mine. I hope some of this will help you.
 

BillK

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DK,
I have the same basic separator setup on my ancient Van Norman cabinet at the shop. It always works great. BUT ...............

About a month ago I was just about out of glass beads and my usual supplier was also out so I went to Tractor Supply and bought a bucket of their glass beads. Not only did I start having the same problem as you but the TS stuff just did not do the job. My usual supplier got beads back in and I cleaned the whole machine out a week ago and put the good stuff in and everything is back to normal :)

Just saying that it might be the media itself causing the issue.
 
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dkmc

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I see two things and know of more that may help you, as I had the same problems.

I will check these points out RJ thanks.
I am curious what the blower wheel looks like too. I don't know, but I will
bet it does not fit in the housing very precisely which would affect the CFM
capability of the unit.

So 2 problems need to be solved:
1. Inadequate suction in the cabinet
2. Media carry over into the filter bag.

Maybe it's something I am doing wrong, I don't know.
But there are very few parts here, and no adjustments.

DK,
I have the same basic separator setup on my ancient Van Norman cabinet at the shop. It always works great. BUT ...............

About a month ago I was just about out of glass beads and my usual supplier was also out so I went to Tractor Supply and bought a bucket of their glass beads. Not only did I start having the same problem as you but the TS stuff just did not do the job. My usual supplier got beads back in and I cleaned the whole machine out a week ago and put the good stuff in and everything is back to normal :)

Just saying that it might be the media itself causing the issue.

I've used glass beads before, but now for many years, I have used Alox.
It is heavier than glass beads, but still this equipment should be able to
deal with it.
 
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dkmc

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I used it today briefly.
I notice the filter bag is pretty stiffly inflated, like there's plenty of static
pressure, but maybe not enough air is flowing thru it.
What is the procedure to thoroughly clean the filter bag?
 

OccupantRJ

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I used it today briefly.
I notice the filter bag is pretty stiffly inflated, like there's plenty of static
pressure, but maybe not enough air is flowing thru it.
What is the procedure to thoroughly clean the filter bag?

Tough one to do neatly. A standard method when the bag(s) are enclosed in a baghouse is to shake the bags when deflated to knock material out of the pores. You can bump the bag while inflated but it will raise dust.

I remove the bag, turn inside out and hose off the interior with cold water and a sprayer with dish detergent. If you can hand wash in a container of some sort, this will help. After a good hand wringing and rinse, hang outside to dry. Do not use a clothes dryer or the bag is likely to shrink enough to shock you. Ask me how I know. A 6" diameter bag 43" long shrunk about 6" in length.
 

OccupantRJ

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On a side note, I use cotton duck material from the piece goods store for my bags. I chose which material by getting them to snip a sample, then holding it over my mouth and blowing through it. It should take at least the effort as blowing through a doubled over cotton T shirt from my experience. Any less, dust comes through. Any more and air flow suffers.

The lady at the piece goods store told me that experienced people who sew dresses blow through the cloth to see how cool the dress will end up when wearing it. Also, if you are a man in a piece goods store, you will be the center of attention whether you like it or not.
 
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dkmc

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How many hours between cleanings?
I think I will wait for a windy day, then take it out back, turn inside out, and shake it/ beat it while standing UP wind. I don't think I'll wash it tho...

Still have to solve the carry over problem.
Might be a lot more complicated.
I think the cylinder part of the cyclone needs to be taller than it is now.
At least that's the way the other cyclones that work well are built.
 
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OccupantRJ

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I sometimes take the deflated bag while on the cyclone and shake it around a bit to dislodge loose dust. How often depends on when it catches my attention. Mine is due now as it has run a LOT lately since my son is restoring a machine.

Other thoughts. How deep is the grit in the funnel at rest? It only needs enough to not run out during operation, in my opinion. If yours is too deep, it may be stirred around into suspension and ejected out the exhaust port into the bag. Does the bag inflate fully, and can you post a pic of it in action? When I had the squirrel cage blower wheel, the bag drooped. With the impeller, it fully inflates and holds itself up.

The body of your cyclone looks long enough to me. Maybe open the door and reach up inside to see how long and how big around the tube is that is the entrance to the center of the blower. Use a cell phone to take a pic up inside there for more info maybe? My upper tube is 6" in diameter.

Turn the unit on with the cabinet closed and see if the gloves inflate. If so, you may likely need more makeup air entering the cabinet, as the fan could be starving for air. An amp check on the motor wiring during operation would give a reference as to how hard the motor is working.
The more air, the harder it has to work. A hair less than full load amp rating on the motor would be my goal.

You could also detach the bag, take an amp reading, attach the bag, take a reading to see how the bag is affecting things.
 
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OccupantRJ

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You can likely tell that this is an interesting subject to me. My newest thought after writing the above for my units is an amp meter to tell when the bags need cleaning.
 

OccupantRJ

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You are welcome. Another thing I did on my suction blast gun was to remove the suction hose and replace with an adapter to allow attaching a vacuum gauge. This allowed me to experiment with the relationship of the air jet to the blast nozzle in a fore/aft position to get maximum suction at the gun. This made a bit of improvement in overall performance.
 
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dkmc

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You are welcome. Another thing I did on my suction blast gun was to remove the suction hose and replace with an adapter to allow attaching a vacuum gauge. This allowed me to experiment with the relationship of the air jet to the blast nozzle in a fore/aft position to get maximum suction at the gun. This made a bit of improvement in overall performance.

Vacuum gauge....
Maximum vacuum....
BRILLIANT!
 
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dkmc

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Finally had an hour to check things out further.

I have to back pedal a bit....
I was sure the dust bag had media in the bottom because its very heavy for the ammount there is in it. I dumped it out, and it really is only very fine dust with no courser media in it. So the media carry over "problem" does not appear to be much of a real problem after all. That is a relief!
Also apparently the Alox IS breaking down quicker that I realize, which made me think there was carry over. And the dust from the Alox is very dense and heavy.
It seems apparent that the dust bag is too small, too restrictive, or both.
I'm thinking I'd like to eliminate the bag completely, and route the exhaust outside the building using 4" pvc pipe. I think so little dust would be expelled at any given time, the wind would disperse it nicely along with the other dust blowing around outside.

Next I removed the filter bag and ran the reclaimer without it. MUCH improved suction. I then poured media down inside the cabinet, but still noticed some of it was
collecting on top of the trap door. This is with the top and/or the side door open.
The gloves DO inflate with it all closed up, but not excessively. Still it needs more
holes to allow more airflow thru the cabinet. I will have to cut more holes and/or enlarge the existing ones.

RJ, you are correct that the pickup should be in the BOTTOM of the cabinet.
But I'm thinking about a fix without doing major surgery on the cabinet.
Possibly adding some sort of baffle in the bottom to direct the media to the outlet hole. Problem is, there is NO easy access inside this cabinet. I may end up cutting in another access door or doing other further mods to eliminate the build up in the bottom.

Next, I am real curious about the suction hose and the vacuum gauge test!
 

OccupantRJ

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Go for it! This is how we all learn. I just went out and took a pic of my trap door for you. It is a metal plate with a piece of large tubing welded to it. The upper piece is a square of rubber to create a seal against the hopper outlet hole. The assembly is held on by two "suitcase" style over center latches, readily available hardware items. These give compression to the gasket and make the hose adapter easily removeable for servicing.
 

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dkmc

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Well I rigged up a vacuum gauge to the abrasive pick up tube on the gun.
I found the highest vacuum was achieved when I moved the air nozzle in the back of the gun forward toward the rear of the carbide blast nozzle by aprox. .150 inches.
Now I always see a 'cloud' of abrasive exiting the nozzle and it is steady and less intermittent.

Great tech tip RJ!
 

OccupantRJ

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Well I rigged up a vacuum gauge to the abrasive pick up tube on the gun.
I found the highest vacuum was achieved when I moved the air nozzle in the back of the gun forward toward the rear of the carbide blast nozzle by aprox. .150 inches.
Now I always see a 'cloud' of abrasive exiting the nozzle and it is steady and less intermittent.

Great tech tip RJ!

Great! You done good. I look at each aspect of a system to see why it is like it is and how to improve it, a left over from my product development days and hot rodding.
 

VoodooCLD

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Reviving an old thread. Can anyone tell me what the diameter and height of these reclaimer units are? I'd like to build one, but am not sure what the dimensions should be.
 
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