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Tungsten Sharpener Recommendations

bdbecker

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Anxiously waiting for a box to arrive next month from Primeweld and just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before it gets here. While I've spent a fair amount of time under a hood, most of my experience is with GMAW and SMAW. It's been 15 years since I last held a TIG torch, and even then it wasn't pretty. I know I'm going to be dressing my fair share of electrodes while I learn, which got me thinking about getting an electrode sharpener.

Does anyone have experience with some of the more cost friendly tungsten electrode sharpener options on the market? We run mostly Turbo-Sharp grinders in the shop, but I can't justify that kind of money for my home setup. We have a few Sharpie grinders in the mix as well, which while being more affordable, are bit of a stretch for me at the moment. That has me looking at the following options:

Eastwood

Amazon

Or maybe just buy the head and and a Dremel separately...

I like that this one is enclosed to catch most of the dust...

If these options are not worth it, I'm not opposed to using the bench grinder for awhile until I can fit Sharpie into the budget. Also looking for any suggestions outside of what was linked above. Thanks in advance!
 
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ToolRoom

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What about one of those small inexpensive diamond discs either mounted in a grinder or on the side of existing stone on your bench grinder. Often sold on eBay etc as Tungsten sharpening discs.
 

zmotorsports

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I have an old Triad Weldcraft that has served me well for the past 20~ish years. It wasn't cheap by any means and I've only had to flip and replace the stone/wheel once in all that time. It has worked flawless and has never given me any issues.

I have a co-worker who bought one of those cheaper adapters that go on a dremel or similar tool. I am not impressed. Seems he is constantly fidgeting and messing with it and still can't get it to operator properly. I'd have tossed it by now personally.
 

rlitman

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What about one of those small inexpensive diamond discs either mounted in a grinder or on the side of existing stone on your bench grinder. Often sold on eBay etc as Tungsten sharpening discs.
That's what I use. I picked up a super cheezy 5" grinder on CL for $5 and slapped a pair of 4" diamond lapidary discs on the outer side of each wheel. Total budget: $15

I'm using 80 grit and 180 grit, and I doubt I'll ever wear them out. I'll use the corners of the aluminum oxide wheels to chonk out any blobs before hitting the diamond for my point.

To be fair, I hate sharpening things as I go. I don't mind sharpening, but sharpening itself is a real momentum killer, which is why I own at least 40 tungstens in my most used size (1.6mm), and probably 20-30 in the other sizes I use (as well as 5-6 chisels in every size, and several sets of identical hand planes too). But for the once every few years when I'm running low on clean tungstens and I pull the grinder out, it works great and has no troubles spending a full hour sharpening everything at once.
 

Jim greengo

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Anxiously waiting for a box to arrive next month from Primeweld and just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before it gets here. While I've spent a fair amount of time under a hood, most of my experience is with GMAW and SMAW. It's been 15 years since I last held a TIG torch, and even then it wasn't pretty. I know I'm going to be dressing my fair share of electrodes while I learn, which got me thinking about getting an electrode sharpener.

Does anyone have experience with some of the more cost friendly tungsten electrode sharpener options on the market? We run mostly Turbo-Sharp grinders in the shop, but I can't justify that kind of money for my home setup. We have a few Sharpie grinders in the mix as well, which while being more affordable, are bit of a stretch for me at the moment. That has me looking at the following options:

Eastwood

Amazon

Or maybe just buy the head and and a Dremel separately...

I like that this one is enclosed to catch most of the dust...

If these options are not worth it, I'm not opposed to using the bench grinder for awhile until I can fit Sharpie into the budget. Also looking for any suggestions outside of what was linked above. Thanks in advance!
I always just used a bench grinder back in the day.
Unless I was on a job site,then I'd just hit it on a 4" grinder.
 

msharley

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Central Pennsylvania
Anxiously waiting for a box to arrive next month from Primeweld and just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before it gets here. While I've spent a fair amount of time under a hood, most of my experience is with GMAW and SMAW. It's been 15 years since I last held a TIG torch, and even then it wasn't pretty. I know I'm going to be dressing my fair share of electrodes while I learn, which got me thinking about getting an electrode sharpener.

Does anyone have experience with some of the more cost friendly tungsten electrode sharpener options on the market? We run mostly Turbo-Sharp grinders in the shop, but I can't justify that kind of money for my home setup. We have a few Sharpie grinders in the mix as well, which while being more affordable, are bit of a stretch for me at the moment. That has me looking at the following options:

Eastwood

Amazon

Or maybe just buy the head and and a Dremel separately...

I like that this one is enclosed to catch most of the dust...

If these options are not worth it, I'm not opposed to using the bench grinder for awhile until I can fit Sharpie into the budget. Also looking for any suggestions outside of what was linked above. Thanks in advance!
Battery drill & a grinder.....
 

Damon L.

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I got the Eastwood one when I bought my TiG. seems to work just fine when I hose up the tips (quite frequently, I am just a beginner) I picked up extra discs at the time, but haven't had to change one yet.
 

mark-NJ

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I bought this diamond grinding wheel for one of my bench grinders. It's only 3-1/2" diameter (and it's on my smaller Craftsman 5" grinder), but it works like a charm! And you can't beat the price!

I chuck the tungsten in my drill and hold it against this wheel...perfect point every time.

On a conventional grinding wheel the tungsten wears a groove very fast. But with this diamond wheel, the surface is still as perfect as it was the day I bought it....and that was about 2 years ago. Highly recommended!

 
OP
B

bdbecker

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Thanks for all the input! I think I'm just going to stick with the bench grinder for now and will hold out for a Sharpie. I did find some 3D printed guides that attach to rotary tools and might play around with that. I won't be out anything more than some printer time and a little bit of filament since I already have a dremel.
 

welder4956

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Thanks for all the input! I think I'm just going to stick with the bench grinder for now and will hold out for a Sharpie. I did find some 3D printed guides that attach to rotary tools and might play around with that. I won't be out anything more than some printer time and a little bit of filament since I already have a dremel.
Chucking the tungsten in a drill and spinning it while sharpening on a bench grinder works great. No need to get too high tech.
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Does anyone have a Sharpie? If so, a review would be great. The way I Tig weld, a tungsten grinder could be a time saver! I typically use an angle grinder with whatever disc I have on it or a belt grinder with whatever belt happens to be on it. I'm not welding space shuttles, so any method works for my junk. I really should step it up with more consistently ground tips though.
 

sqznby

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I have this one, but it is the 1st generation powered by Metabo instead of Dewalt.

I have the same Metabo and it is a beast. It is the best portable tunk grinder.
For shop I've used a bunch mostly Pirahana brands but honestly, grab an inexpensive 6" bench grinder and buy a wheel something like this
They also make them out of finer stone that work well also and don't wear out as fast as a standard grinding wheel.
Dedicate it specifically for grinding tunks and it'll last for ever.
 

boom_bap

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Does anyone have a Sharpie? If so, a review would be great. The way I Tig weld, a tungsten grinder could be a time saver! I typically use an angle grinder with whatever disc I have on it or a belt grinder with whatever belt happens to be on it. I'm not welding space shuttles, so any method works for my junk. I really should step it up with more consistently ground tips though.
I have used a Sharpie and it is awesome. I guy I worked with had one in the next booth and he'd frequently let me use it when he was doing other work in the shop. His was the plugin model, so if you have power at your table or bench it is great. Makes sharpening much quicker and saves a trip to the grinder.

I'd probably nab the head and put in the the m12 rotary tool (arc zone sells the whole kit too), if you want a wireless one.

Definitely worth a buy if you have extra income and want a fun toy, or you need precision angles etc.
 

Hammbone83

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Nov 20, 2022
Messages
5
Anxiously waiting for a box to arrive next month from Primeweld and just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before it gets here. While I've spent a fair amount of time under a hood, most of my experience is with GMAW and SMAW. It's been 15 years since I last held a TIG torch, and even then it wasn't pretty. I know I'm going to be dressing my fair share of electrodes while I learn, which got me thinking about getting an electrode sharpener.

Does anyone have experience with some of the more cost friendly tungsten electrode sharpener options on the market? We run mostly Turbo-Sharp grinders in the shop, but I can't justify that kind of money for my home setup. We have a few Sharpie grinders in the mix as well, which while being more affordable, are bit of a stretch for me at the moment. That has me looking at the following options:

Eastwood

Amazon

Or maybe just buy the head and and a Dremel separately...

I like that this one is enclosed to catch most of the dust...

If these options are not worth it, I'm not opposed to using the bench grinder for awhile until I can fit Sharpie into the budget. Also looking for any suggestions outside of what was linked above. Thanks in advance!
My brother look here, Ive been welding for 15 years. Mig,tig,fluxcore,stick,subarc,and jimmy jammer(I have tigged more pipes than any of the other). I'm really biased about this because I really wouldn't believe there is anything better. you also wont have to take out a small loan for it. Take it or leave it. This for portable (cut the tale end off it will continue to spin without tale:


and this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GU33TK8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

and if your in a stationary spot, just use a fine grit bench grinder with a drill or the diamond blade with rotary tool. If anyone tells you something is better I would say that they just dont know any better.
 
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dr_clyde

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I have a Sharpie on the M12 platform and a Techsouth corded one. The Sharpie is really, really nice and I’d highly recommend one.

I’m considering getting a Piranha stationary one for the shop.
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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I have a Sharpie on the M12 platform and a Techsouth corded one. The Sharpie is really, really nice and I’d highly recommend one.

I’m considering getting a Piranha stationary one for the shop.

As a pro, how many fresh tungstens do you go through in a day? In other words, how many times do you need to sharpen your tungsten in a full day welding?
 

dr_clyde

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As a pro, how many fresh tungstens do you go through in a day? In other words, how many times do you need to sharpen your tungsten in a full day welding?
Not many, in general.

Depends on the work, really, and it can go both ways. I can sit at the bench for hours and maybe flip my tungsten once or twice. If I’m having a bad day or the parts are dirty or something it may be every few parts I need to touch up. If I’m doing lift arc or scratch start on sanitary stainless pipe I may touch up my electrode every time I strike an arc as the point gets eroded fast and that kind of work is really critical to have a clean sharp point.

I may buy a box of tungsten once a year or so. We have good welders on our staff, so tungsten rarely is an issue.

I’m not bragging or anything, the reality is though once you get good at tig work you tend to not bone the tungsten super hard every time. Just a little here and there and it grinds off quickly and without too much drama and they last a LONG time. There also is some work where the point isn’t super critical and the contamination will just burn off and not cause too much issue so it’s not worth stopping and cleaning it up.

And once in a while you dunk it so bad it looks like a popsicle from a bachelorette party and you just need to cut the end off and start fresh.
 

boom_bap

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One thing to consider is that the sharpie is a rotary with a diamond wheel and a fixture for getting precision angles.

In theory if you've already got a bench grinder just slap a diamond wheel on there and make your own fixture as a tig project.

I use a bench grinder with a regular wheel al oxide wheel.

Remember that all of them produce tungsten dust which you definitely don't want to breath. The priana stuff is water streamed which cuts out the dust, looks like a mess when you need to clean it though. Trade offs..
 

dr_clyde

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Portability is where the Sharpie really shines. We do a lot of mobile work so being able to sharpen on the road or up in a lift or whatever is REALLY nice.
 

welder4956

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One thing to consider is that the sharpie is a rotary with a diamond wheel and a fixture for getting precision angles.
Fortunately, precision angles are not needed for manual TIG welding. They are helpful when doing fully automatic or machine welding to get consistent results, but even then some variability is not an issue unless welding very thin materials or in a narrow groove joint. Hand grinding is just fine for hobby welding and 99.9% of industrial manual TIG welding.
 

rlitman

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...Remember that all of them produce tungsten dust which you definitely don't want to breath...
I don't use radioactive tungstens, so what exactly is the problem? When I grind a tungsten on an aluminum oxide wheel it creates a cloud of dust as the wheel disintegrates, but I really don't see much dust created against a diamond.

Portability is where the Sharpie really shines. We do a lot of mobile work so being able to sharpen on the road or up in a lift or whatever is REALLY nice.
I guess it has a niche. But how much sharpening do you actually need to do on the road or in a lift. A 7" long section of 1" sch40 PVC pipe can't be bigger than a Sharpie, and will hold about 290 1.6mm tungstens (yes, nearly three hundred), which I can buy for around $300 (blue - 2% lanthanated), which is STILL LESS than a $377 Sharpie. Or the same hypothetical pipe can hold 105 2.4mm tungstens, which would cost under $200. I do think a tube filled solid with tungsten would be surprisingly heavy, so there is that.

Granted, you probably weld more every day than I weld every decade, and I'm in no way recommending you follow my zany practices when your shop works for you.

Fortunately, precision angles are not needed for manual TIG welding. They are helpful when doing fully automatic or machine welding to get consistent results, but even then some variability is not an issue unless welding very thin materials or in a narrow groove joint. Hand grinding is just fine for hobby welding and 99.9% of industrial manual TIG welding.
+1 Most people don't understand this. The point does help a little with arc initiation, but it actually DEfocuses the arc, with a sharper point resulting in a wider arc. The tightest arc would actually come from a tungsten cut straight across, so most people aiming for super sharp tungstens are actually doing the opposite of what they want. Especially when you make a fragile tip that breaks off into your weld.

untitled2.png
 

dr_clyde

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I don't use radioactive tungstens, so what exactly is the problem? When I grind a tungsten on an aluminum oxide wheel it creates a cloud of dust as the wheel disintegrates, but I really don't see much dust created against a diamond.


I guess it has a niche. But how much sharpening do you actually need to do on the road or in a lift. A 7" long section of 1" sch40 PVC pipe can't be bigger than a Sharpie, and will hold about 290 1.6mm tungstens (yes, nearly three hundred), which I can buy for around $300 (blue - 2% lanthanated), which is STILL LESS than a $377 Sharpie. Or the same hypothetical pipe can hold 105 2.4mm tungstens, which would cost under $200. I do think a tube filled solid with tungsten would be surprisingly heavy, so there is that.

Granted, you probably weld more every day than I weld every decade, and I'm in no way recommending you follow my zany practices when your shop works for you.


+1 Most people don't understand this. The point does help a little with arc initiation, but it actually DEfocuses the arc, with a sharper point resulting in a wider arc. The tightest arc would actually come from a tungsten cut straight across, so most people aiming for super sharp tungstens are actually doing the opposite of what they want. Especially when you make a fragile tip that breaks off into your weld.

untitled2.png

I use the Sharpie in the shop as well as on the road. It's super convenient to have on your bench next to your work and you don't even have to get up to touch up the electrode. Bench grinders work fine and are less money, but time is also money. These things work fast, are on your person so you don't have to walk anywhere and they're very effective.

Even if I wanted 300 electrodes ready to go, (and I don't), someone would still have to sharpen them initially and maintain the points as they wear out. You'd eventually get to the end of the 300 and have to start over again, so you're not really saving anything, you're just moving where and when the tungsten get sharpened.

On a big job where you have dedicated welders, fitters and helpers I can see the benefits to having a guy who all he does is sharpen electrodes all day for the 50 welders who are using them constantly.

Yeah, you can use a bench grinder or whatever in the shop. And when the electrode is new I do use the bench grinder or the belt sander to start the taper so I don't waste the diamond wheel.

I still think they're worth the money. Having consistent points on the electrode is nice. Unless you're running an orbital machine the point angle isn't critical but it sure is nice to be the same every time.

If the money is a show stopper for you, then you're probably not welding enough for it to matter or you haven't ever been on a jobsite where the portability was worth the extra.

When I worked at the brewery I'd have to do confined space permit work inside these big tanks. I would make welds on fittings and sometimes repairs. It involved crawling though a small manway door with air meters and harnesses and all kinds of ****, so I didn't want to have to get in and out more than I needed. I loved having the tungsten grinder in the tank so I could just touch up my electrode quick in between welds. All scratch start TIG with no buttons or foot controls so the points made it like, one or two arc starts before they erode down a bit and don't start as well or don't weld as you like. And yeah, I could have sharpened a whole pile of electrodes and took them in with me, but then I'd have to keep track of a whole pile of electrodes. Less **** I have to keep track of the better.

They're no different than any other specialty tool. Can you do work without them? Yeah, usually. But they save time, effort and make your life easier so why wouldn't you want to use them?
 

boom_bap

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I don't use radioactive tungstens, so what exactly is the problem? When I grind a tungsten on an aluminum oxide wheel it creates a cloud of dust as the wheel disintegrates, but I really don't see much dust created against a diamond.
You do as you please.

I'll wear my respirator and reduce my exposure to the risks of breathing any welding fumes, tungsten dust, grinding dust, hex chrome etc. Off topic though, I'll leave it at that.

Sharpie is a thumb up from me.
 

G-ManBart

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I've looked at dedicated tungsten sharpeners for years now and haven't pulled the trigger even though most of my welding is TIG. I bought a cheap HF belt sander for something like $30 and keep a cordless drill next to it. Every time I finish welding for the day I give any used tungsten a fresh pass over the belt sander while turning in the drill. I like to keep a handful of each size ready to go...takes just a few minutes to pre-sharpen an entire pack.

I actually use one side of the belt for cleaning contamination off the tungsten, then switch to the other side for the final pass or two.

Depending on the project I can weld for hours and not dip a tungsten one day, and the next it's a couple times an hour when I'm doing oddball stuff. My neighbor helped teach me to stick and torch weld years ago, now he's brining me all sorts of crazy stuff to TIG weld for him, and that's been the source of more dipped tungstens than anything in recent memory. It's not that the welds are difficult, it's that I'm thrown something right now and have to improvise a way to fixture it, get a work clamp on it, etc rather than when I'm doing my own work and have that sorted out ahead of time, or build it into the plan from the start.
 

tom86951

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Another happy Eastwood sharpener guy here. Works great, and takes no bench space.
 

Don-F

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I have had a ArcZone tungsten grinder (Sharpie) for about 15 years now. I would NOT recommend it over the Eastwood though... even at the $250 I paid back then. The Black and Decker rotary tool failed a few years after buying. They had a design fault in the motor control that's been corrected. I contacted ArcZone for help and instead of giving me a part number so I could buy a replacement cheap (they took off the BD sticker and used their own), they refused tech support but tried to sell me a new $40 dollar tool replacement for $120. I took a chance and got my own without their help from Amazon and its worked fine for about 10 years. That's the last time I do business with them. Now I would just buy the Eastwood, not as fancy of design, but I cant see any reason why it wouldn't do the job just as well.

I have sharpened on my grinder and the dedicated tool. Either one works but I prefer the rotary tool with the diamond disk. Its faster and holds the angle so its the same every time. I do blunt the tip after sharpening I like pattern better doing it that way. I got a large batch of china made diamond disks many years ago they work fine, not high quality but for this application there is no difference performance wise. I got ten for a dollar a piece, and I have about 7 left. Local suppliers had higher quality wheels but wanted $13 or more for one. One other thing is an employer told me about possible contamination if you use the shop grinding wheel to sharpen tungsten. With the rotary tool and diamond wheel, there is no chance of that as its only used for tungsten.
 

dr_clyde

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I have had a ArcZone tungsten grinder (Sharpie) for about 15 years now. I would NOT recommend it over the Eastwood though... even at the $250 I paid back then. The Black and Decker rotary tool failed a few years after buying. They had a design fault in the motor control that's been corrected. I contacted ArcZone for help and instead of giving me a part number so I could buy a replacement cheap (they took off the BD sticker and used their own), they refused tech support but tried to sell me a new $40 dollar tool replacement for $120. I took a chance and got my own without their help from Amazon and its worked fine for about 10 years. That's the last time I do business with them. Now I would just buy the Eastwood, not as fancy of design, but I cant see any reason why it wouldn't do the job just as well.

I have sharpened on my grinder and the dedicated tool. Either one works but I prefer the rotary tool with the diamond disk. Its faster and holds the angle so its the same every time. I do blunt the tip after sharpening I like pattern better doing it that way. I got a large batch of china made diamond disks many years ago they work fine, not high quality but for this application there is no difference performance wise. I got ten for a dollar a piece, and I have about 7 left. Local suppliers had higher quality wheels but wanted $13 or more for one. One other thing is an employer told me about possible contamination if you use the shop grinding wheel to sharpen tungsten. With the rotary tool and diamond wheel, there is no chance of that as its only used for tungsten.
Techsouth uses a Black and Decker rotary tool, Sharpie currently uses Milwaukee M12. Might have been different years ago.
 

Don-F

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Yeah, that’s what I’m saying. Your issues were with Black and Decker, not Sharpie.
No you need to re read, your reading comprehension is is bit off. I can spell it out again for you. I have no issues with black and decker at all stuff happens and it was a reasonable replacement. The issues was with Arc Zone themselves! All of this is listed in the quote if you take time to read it. I told them about the problem and ask what model number BD rotary tool they used so I could find a replacement. I didn't ask them to warranty anything. They refused but did offer to sell me a replacement with their sticker for three times the price! Needless to say I got the BD replacement tool from amazon and will not be giving them anymore of my money. Now on to the original posters question. The sharpie works, but for its cost now and their cruddy customer service, I would get the east wood or one of the other they listed. There is just not enough difference to justify the difference in costs.
 

dr_clyde

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No you need to re read, your reading comprehension is is bit off. I can spell it out again for you. I have no issues with black and decker at all stuff happens and it was a reasonable replacement. The issues was with Arc Zone themselves! All of this is listed in the quote if you take time to read it. I told them about the problem and ask what model number BD rotary tool they used so I could find a replacement. I didn't ask them to warranty anything. They refused but did offer to sell me a replacement with their sticker for three times the price! Needless to say I got the BD replacement tool from amazon and will not be giving them anymore of my money. Now on to the original posters question. The sharpie works, but for its cost now and their cruddy customer service, I would get the east wood or one of the other they listed. There is just not enough difference to justify the difference in costs.
My reading comprehension is just fine, thanks.

After a few years of use (looks like about 5 given your stated timeline) your black and decker tool failed and the company you bought it from wouldn’t give you information for a cheap replacement elsewhere. Instead, they offered to sell you a replacement, you refused, and they are somehow at fault? I’m not sure of the warranty period, but I’m sure it’s only a year or two. I don’t see the problem here.

Companies rebrand stuff all the time, it’s not like they’re obligated to help you find a replacement elsewhere if you’re too cheap to buy it from them.

After all this, Arczone no longer uses the B&D part you had issues with and have since replaced it with Milwaukee. This is still somehow not relevant when your issues were not with the tungsten attachment but with the rotary tool?

I think you’re just pissed at Arczone because they wouldn’t help you source parts elsewhere when you specifically stated you wouldn’t buy it from them because your didn’t want to pay their pricing. This is in no way relevant to the modern version of this tool that someone might buy today nor is it relevant to Arczone as a company. Do you get mad at cashiers when they won’t take an expired coupon and never go back to that grocery store?

If your grinder was brand new or under warranty I would be much more sympathetic but after a few years of use the part failed and they’re under no obligation to help you in any way.
 

Don-F

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I think you’re just pissed at Arczone because they wouldn’t help you source parts elsewhere when you specifically stated you wouldn’t buy it from them because your didn’t want to pay their pricing. This is in no way relevant to the modern version of this tool that someone might buy today nor is it relevant to Arczone as a company. Do you get mad at cashiers when they won’t take an expired coupon and never go back to that grocery store?
OK now your are just acting like a 12 year old! Please grow up! Again you are having problems with your comprehension! No where did I say that I told them "specifically stated you wouldn’t buy it from them because your didn’t want to pay their pricing" they didn't help when I had a problem, they did try to jab me for three times the price so I will not use them. Now if YOU have a problem with that. Your entitled to the difference of opinion, but I really don't see where this is helping the OP at all.
 

dr_clyde

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Location
Holland, MI
OK now your are just acting like a 12 year old! Please grow up! Again you are having problems with your comprehension! No where did I say that I told them "specifically stated you wouldn’t buy it from them because your didn’t want to pay their pricing" they didn't help when I had a problem, they did try to jab me for three times the price so I will not use them. Now if YOU have a problem with that. Your entitled to the difference of opinion, but I really don't see where this is helping the OP at all.
Lol

You crack me up dude.

You had an issue over a decade ago with a product that is completely different in design now, but you still want to **** on the company because they wanted to charge you for a replacement that was out of warranty and wouldn’t help you find a cheaper one online.
 
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