My detached garage has an older Miller Two Post, 5000 lb rated, car lift. I shorted out the momentary contact switch that operates the motor. I replaced the switch with a two post, automotive starter switch which immediately shorted, caught fire, and tripped the breaker. The motor is wired for 220. The switch has two wires. Where can I find a switch that will work?
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Two Post Lift Wiring Problem
- Thread starter Gunnert
- Start date
nehog
Well-known member
Since you have no idea what you are doing, I'd suggest you contact a lift installer/repair person to fix it for you. Putting in a switch rated for 12 volts in a circuit that is 240 volts has to be about as bad as it gets.
wit2003
Well-known member
^^ agreed
Please get someone in there to do the work for you before you get hurt.
Please get someone in there to do the work for you before you get hurt.
pattenp
Well-known member
This is what you need...... Just make sure the voltage and amp capacity are correct.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ushroom_Pushbuttons_(Non-Illuminated)/HT8AERA
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http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ushroom_Pushbuttons_(Non-Illuminated)/HT8AERA
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Last edited:
dave*99
Well-known member
This is what you need...... Just make sure the voltage and amp capacity are correct.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ushroom_Pushbuttons_(Non-Illuminated)/HT8AERA
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My lift has a guard around the power button to ensure you are deliberate about operating the power. The unit shown in the link looks more like an emergency stop button than a power button. I'd look for a button with a guard.
pattenp
Well-known member
That button is a momentary push N.O.
Here's a recessed one.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ated_Pushbuttons_(Flush_-a-_Extended)/HT8AAGA
Here's a recessed one.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ated_Pushbuttons_(Flush_-a-_Extended)/HT8AAGA
This is what you need...... Just make sure the voltage and amp capacity are correct.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ushroom_Pushbuttons_(Non-Illuminated)/HT8AERA
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A few months back I took your recommendation, ordered and installed the switch. But, it periodically sticks and I have to run to the panel to trip the breaker. When I open up the box the switch is stuck open, I use a scribe to push it back to the closed position. I've tried dialectic grease to lube but seems like the contacts are sticking for soom reason or the return spring isn't strong enough to close switch...
Any ideas...?
pattenp
Well-known member
A few months back I took your recommendation, ordered and installed the switch. But, it periodically sticks and I have to run to the panel to trip the breaker. When I open up the box the switch is stuck open, I use a scribe to push it back to the closed position. I've tried dialectic grease to lube but seems like the contacts are sticking for soom reason or the return spring isn't strong enough to close switch...
Any ideas...?
Sorry but I don't. You'd think the the dielectric grease would do the trick. Apparently the quality of the switch isn't so great. Did the switch have any warranty? Which switch mod# did you actually get?
Here's another switch replacement option...
http://www.automotiveshopequipment....wer Unit Parts/Power Unit Parts.htm#SPX Parts
or
http://www.automotiveshopequipment.net/pages/Lift Parts/default.htm#Power Units
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Thanks for the links. I took the switch out and work the diaelectric grease into it. I'm going to give it one more shot before I replace it.
The switch I have is not a cheap one, cost about $40.00, don't know if company would replace or not....
The switch I have is not a cheap one, cost about $40.00, don't know if company would replace or not....
nehog
Well-known member
Wrong switch (easy mistake to make) the one you have is a low voltage, low current logic level switch with gold (low resistance) contacts. (the E in the HT8AE is the specification...)
Eaton makes good products, but you need the right switch.
Eaton makes good products, but you need the right switch.
pattenp
Well-known member
Wrong switch (easy mistake to make) the one you have is a low voltage, low current logic level switch with gold (low resistance) contacts. (the E in the HT8AE is the specification...)
Eaton makes good products, but you need the right switch.
That's not the switch he should have bought. It was just the switch that was shown as an example on the web page that I pointed him to.
Edit: I think you have your code letters out of place the HT8E is the logic level switch with gold (low resistance) contacts, not the HT8A.
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pattenp
Well-known member
My bust, which switch should I order?
Thanks
I,m not totally sure you bought the wrong volt/amp size switch. Do you have the number from the one that you did buy? I know the last switches I posted the link to from the lift parts supplier are correct. but I don't know if they fit your lift switch box. The Eaton HT8A series at 240V is rated at 30A interrupting, 10A Thermal Current, and 3A load break. So that switch may be a little weak for the motor load. What is the amp draw of the lift power unit motor?
That's not the switch he should have bought. It was just the switch that was shown as an example on the web page that I pointed him to.
Edit: I think you have your code letters out of place the HT8E is the logic level switch with gold (low resistance) contacts, not the HT8A.
I have no idea what the amp draw is, the lift is an old Miller, two-post, chain...
But I did order the HT8A.
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justsam
Well-known member
Look at the motor nameplate or data plate for information on voltage, current, HP, duty cycle, etc.
Is there only the switch in the circuit, or is there some type of contactor/relay that isin the circuit?
How are you wiring the switch in the circuit?
How did the the old switch fail is it now permanently closed, or never makes contact?
Is there only the switch in the circuit, or is there some type of contactor/relay that isin the circuit?
How are you wiring the switch in the circuit?
How did the the old switch fail is it now permanently closed, or never makes contact?
Look at the motor nameplate or data plate for information on voltage, current, HP, duty cycle, etc.
Is there only the switch in the circuit, or is there some type of contactor/relay that isin the circuit?
How are you wiring the switch in the circuit?
How did the the old switch fail is it now permanently closed, or never makes contact?
Plate reads 240v 17 amps. Old switch was 2 post NO, momentary contact. I fried the old switch by arcing it... I was told by supplier the HT8A was rated 30 amps/240v....