Two rooms, ON-OFF-ON switch for lighting?

[Cadillac STS]

My pole barn is divided in two parts, one with the usual wood working tools and the other with metal working tools; Bridgeport mill, Warner Swasey turret lathe, welding.

I use one side or the other in a day but not both.

I am thinking of putting a circuit on each side with 3 metal halide lights on a side and one regular 150 watt flood on the other. So when the lights are on the 3 large 250 watt metal halides light and there will still be one flood on the other side to be able to walk over to get something but not bright working light.

I was thinking of using an on-off-on switch to control the lights so this way I just use one side or the other and can use same service power and not need another feed from the fuse box.

Has anyone done this and if so any thoughts on which switch to use? Need a switch that would not allow both to be on at any time at the same time.

 

[nehog]

Personally I don't know of a low cost on-off-on wall switch. They are made, but not cheap.

 

[Ken Greene]

This might work but it says its a momentary switch.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U5WWIS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Ken Greene]

This is what you need

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Wall Switch DPDT/00070901

 

[Norcal]

Are these all on the same switch now? Then split them up & add a switch leg.

 

[nehog]

This is what you need

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Wall Switch DPDT/00070901

Yep, as I said, not cheap! Personally I'd just do two switches.

 

[Cadillac STS]

Are these all on the same switch now? Then split them up & add a switch leg.

No it is on a reconfiguration of something already there; with added lights.

I wanted something that had no chance of adding both lighting circuits at the same time even if someone unfamiliar came in and threw on switches. That way for safety I can use one feed line to the fuse box breaker and not have a chance of overloading it.

Might be easier to just put in another breaker and feed two separate switches and circuits.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Personally, I think you are way over thinking this. I used Leviton double pole, double throw, center off, maintained contact, snap switches to control my metal halide shop lights, but it was a multi-wire circuit and this allows me to turn on all the lights in a row, or half.

I think in your case, a simple installation with two switches would be much more efficient. The problem is, these switches were $50 each and that was from an Ebayer and not anywhere near full retail.

Considering your situation is easily solved by two regular light switches side by side, I would go this route. There may actually come a time when you want all the lights on.

You could splurge somewhat and buy pilot light switches, one red and one green say, and this way, you might not forget the lights and you would know at a glance which ones were on, even if in another room or area.

All of those lights will operate off of one 20 amp/12 gauge wire circuit and not exceed the 80% of circuit capacity. You don't need two circuits, just pigtail from the incoming hot to two pigtails going to the switches.

No it is on a reconfiguration of something already there; with added lights.

I wanted something that had no chance of adding both lighting circuits at the same time even if someone unfamiliar came in and threw on switches. That way for safety I can use one feed line to the fuse box breaker and not have a chance of overloading it.

Might be easier to just put in another breaker and feed two separate switches and circuits.

As I noted, I don't think you will exceed (or by very little) the 80% of circuit capacity with six 250w MH lamps and the two 150w floods. If you are using anything larger than 250W, then you will need two circuits or not have all of the light on at once. Personally I would rather have the capability of turning on all the lights, and using two circuits. Much better all around.

Charles