Tyvek versus Zip Board

[69gp]

Ok so I am going to be using cedar rough side out. My concern is that water may get between the seams of the siding when it is **** jointed in the field and also where it is fitted against the corner boards. With the siding I have removed there was some moisture or water that seeped by on the corner boards that left water stains.

My big concern is that since the zip board is OSB but coated will it stand the test of time. after reading replies I don't think it will benefit me to wrap Tyvek around the entire house if I use the zip board. Was considering just buying a couple of rolls of 3' wide Tyvek and running it up all the inside and outside corners. This way any water that does get between the siding and corner board I will have the Tyvek as an extra barrier so the water can just run all the way down past the sill

 

[8mpg]

Ok so I am going to be using cedar rough side out. My concern is that water may get between the seams of the siding when it is **** jointed in the field and also where it is fitted against the corner boards. With the siding I have removed there was some moisture or water that seeped by on the corner boards that left water stains.

My big concern is that since the zip board is OSB but coated will it stand the test of time. after reading replies I don't think it will benefit me to wrap Tyvek around the entire house if I use the zip board. Was considering just buying a couple of rolls of 3' wide Tyvek and running it up all the inside and outside corners. This way any water that does get between the siding and corner board I will have the Tyvek as an extra barrier so the water can just run all the way down past the sill

Dont do both. Zip is supposed to be taped in the corners preventing water intrusion in the corners. Doing both will get you in trouble. Zip is a great way to keep water out. If there was ever water to come in, the tyvek would try and trap the moisture in vs letting is dry. Walls can dry to the inside or the outside. With zip, you need to dry to the inside if there was ever a water leak.

I really think you are over thinking this. Chose a water barrier system and stick with how the manufacturer recommends doing it. Zip wall is great, just make sure you roll the tape with the J-roller.

 

[tcianci]

Dont do both. Zip is supposed to be taped in the corners preventing water intrusion in the corners. Doing both will get you in trouble. Zip is a great way to keep water out. If there was ever water to come in, the tyvek would try and trap the moisture in vs letting is dry. Walls can dry to the inside or the outside. With zip, you need to dry to the inside if there was ever a water leak.

I really think you are over thinking this. Chose a water barrier system and stick with how the manufacturer recommends doing it. Zip wall is great, just make sure you roll the tape with the J-roller.

A common and effective detail is to flash each **** joint with a strip of 15# felt We would always use a strip about 3 inches wide by 4-5 inches tall, Slip it under one side of of the **** joint and let it overlap onto the previous course then **** the next piece in on top of the felt. Nail the ends of the siding.That will hold the siding and the felt in place. Any water that gets into the **** joint will drip right back out onto the course below.

 

[tcianci]

From Duponts website


Also didn't dupont remedy the cedar issue many many years ago?

Hopefully the did remedy the cedar bleed issue, but we weren't taking anyones word for it. The cur and paste from the DuPont web site doesn't address the thinking that Tyvek is a moisture "check valve" allowing moisture travel in only one direction. IIRC the web site does specifically mention that the product can be applied with either side to the sheathing, indicating that it's vapor transmission abilities are the same either way. Herein lies the whole problem with the product... moisture can travel through it, in either direction and despite what you think, the greatest source of moisture in a wall assembly is weather. In fact, check the vapor permeability of typical interior wall paint and then think about how much interior moisture actually makes it into the wall cavity.

As always, you can certainly use any housewrap or no housewrap, it's up to you. And I'll ask the same question I always ask in these housewrap threads...How many of you guys have actually opened up a wall 20-30 years after it was built using modern housewraps, specifically Tyvek and what have you found?

 

[walrus]

Hopefully the did remedy the cedar bleed issue, but we weren't taking anyones word for it. The cur and paste from the DuPont web site doesn't address the thinking that Tyvek is a moisture "check valve" allowing moisture travel in only one direction. IIRC the web site does specifically mention that the product can be applied with either side to the sheathing, indicating that it's vapor transmission abilities are the same either way. Herein lies the whole problem with the product... moisture can travel through it, in either direction and despite what you think, the greatest source of moisture in a wall assembly is weather. In fact, check the vapor permeability of typical interior wall paint and then think about how much interior moisture actually makes it into the wall cavity.

As always, you can certainly use any housewrap or no housewrap, it's up to you. And I'll ask the same question I always ask in these housewrap threads...How many of you guys have actually opened up a wall 20-30 years after it was built using modern housewraps, specifically Tyvek and what have you found?

I've opened my house because window trim was rotten. Red cedar clapboard over tyvek. Thankfully no issues behind trim. Tyvek looked like new but it's not a big sample size.
Btw, I've been around construction for 40 years. I'm not a carpenter but an electrician so I've seen a little.
Warm moist air in a cold climate like Maine is an issue whether it's more or less than outside issues remains to be seen. Paint may stop interior moisture from going into a cold wall but unsealed areas, piping, electrical etc. won't.

One other thing the junk pine trim one can buy is another reason wall systems fail. Stuff is **** compared to tight grained pine you find in old houses .

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[tcianci]

I've opened my house because window trim was rotten. Red cedar clapboard over tyvek. Thankfully no issues behind trim. Tyvek looked like new but it's not a big sample size.
Btw, I've been around construction for 40 years. I'm not a carpenter but an electrician so I've seen a little.
Warm moist air in a cold climate like Maine is an issue whether it's more or less than outside issues remains to be seen. Paint may stop interior moisture from going into a cold wall but unsealed areas, piping, electrical etc. won't.

One other thing the junk pine trim one can buy is another reason wall systems fail. Stuff is **** compared to tight grained pine you find in old houses .

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No argument about old growth wood, especially with lead paint on it. Like I said, I have 2 houses I work on that date to the civil war and the condition of the siding and trim is amazing as well as the sheathing.

 

[Lelandwelds]

My last house had tarpaper. It was the brittle little squares that fluttered down when you ripped a wall apart.

A better thread would be: Tyvek vs. Snow and ice shield vs. Black mastic vs. Metal sheet


Or maybe: Tyvek vs woven feed sack material.

 

[Homerr]

A common and effective detail is to flash each **** joint with a strip of 15# felt We would always use a strip about 3 inches wide by 4-5 inches tall, Slip it under one side of of the **** joint and let it overlap onto the previous course then **** the next piece in on top of the felt. Nail the ends of the siding.That will hold the siding and the felt in place. Any water that gets into the **** joint will drip right back out onto the course below.

Interesting technique, but it shoots down one of the great benefits of Zip - as an air barrier.

 

[tcianci]

Interesting technique, but it shoots down one of the great benefits of Zip - as an air barrier.

Please explain?

 

[southpier]

I have a hard time with the value of the Zip system on walls over Tyvek/Typar. You still need to handle your water with the proper flashings regardless of the sheathing type. ....

don't forget about the other magic which makes carpenters out of everyone: vycor (and its host of imitations). pretty much the lexonite of the '90s.

 

[quattro_sinko]

Unless it has changed, I believe you HAVE to apply Zip tape with their applicator to keep your full warranty. That having been said, I will likely NEVER install Tyvek again, if at all possible. IMHO, Zip is a superior product, and the added cost of material is offset by less labor. Especially if you're building in an exposed, windy area. Dialing in the depth of the nailgun depth for sheathing helps (with likely a 30psi swing in compressed air pressure, it is difficult to be perfectly consistent when nailing).


For me the days of struggling to unroll a 9' roll of Tyvek (and staple it at the same time) are over.

 

[thertel]

Forget messing with Zip system taping, use the the Zip Flash Caulk as they show in the above video. I just helped on a garage build using the shown method, and it was amazing.

 

[walrus]

Please explain?

My guess is doesn't understand what you meant. Putting a piece of tarpaper behind a joint in siding has been done for eons. Hardiplank comes with pieces just for that reason.

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