Unusual Tips and Tricks

[Jared]

I'm a fan of a liberal application of starting fluid (ether) inside the tire, then toss in a match or touch it with a torch. Stand back when you do this if you like your eyebrows though!

I always here of people doing this, does it acctually work?

 

[EdNJ]

I always here of people doing this, does it acctually work?

The starter fluid trick works,but it's dangerous. A coworker did one,stood too close,and singed his brows and lashes.
I've seen a tool used at Costco and in some tv shows,it's called a Cheetah bead sealer,seems to work well for pain-in-the-**** tires

 

[TNToy]

I always here of people doing this, does it acctually work?

Yes.

Most people do it wrong. I've done more than one very large offroad tire like this. Here's the way to do it without getting burned. It takes 3 men for safety.

Man one has the fluid. Man 2 has a broom, holding it backwards, by the bristled-end. Man 3 has the lighter.

Guy #2 stays just far enough away to swing the broom like in an arc and touch the tip of the handle to the sidewall.

Guy #1 sprays ONCE around the entire inside of the tire/wheel. If you haven't done it before, go around the inside FAST. Doesn't take very much. He then immediately spins, sprays the end of the broom handle, and gets clear, grabbing the air line.

Guy #3 immediately lights the broom, standing on the opposite side of the broom from the tire.

Guy #2 then swings the broom away from guy #3 and touches it to the sidewall. Tiny explosion then blows tire into place.

The valve core is left out during this, so the tire won't **** back off the wheel as the fire dies. As soon as the tire is in place, guy #1 inflates it with the air chuck.

Works very smoothly, and safely. No one is in eyebrow-singing range.

 

[TNToy]

Oh... almost forgot... This is the "wrong" way.

One of the funniest threads. Ever.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48962


Also, not so funny, but what the heck.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=540964

 

[Junkman]

As a retired EMS/EMT person, I can tell you first hand that you shouldn't try this no matter how many hands you have available. It isn't worth risking life and limb to mount a tire. If you don't have the proper equipment to seat the bead, then just take it where it will be done properly. Even if it cost you $25 to get one tire mounted, it is certainly better than loosing fingers or your life for that matter. I have seen people do some of the most stupid things that you can think of, including, but not limited to the guy with the PHD that put his fingers under the running lawn mower. When he was asked why he did it, he said that he didn't think that the blade was that close to the edge of the top housing. Some of what I have seen even made me sick just thinking of how much it must have hurt, like the guy that slid down a pine tree breaking the limbs as he went down, until he fell out of it. He was lucky to be alive, but I am certain that he felt that he might have been better off if he had died. He spent months in the hospital recovering. He thought that he was saving the cost of having it done professionally.

 

[TNToy]

Like I said, I've helped mount about a dozen tires using this method, both in the shop where they wouldn't fit a tire machine... and on the trail where that alternative is to leave a truck in the woods, since dude was too stupid to carry a spare.

It works just fine once you've got the method down. Unless you go absolutely insane with the ether (see pics above), or lay it on top of a plastic fuel line while attempting to mount the tire... the worst that happens is that the tire pops over the outer lip of the wheel. That's a huge ****-fest right there.

Use too little, and nothing happens. Add a little more until it just goes "Whoomp!" wihtout any drama.

 

[wilbilt]

Variant of the same - I use a racheting tie down strap. Wrap it around the tread and cinch down till the sidewall touches the rim, apply air to get the tire to hold. No need for quick reaction times for either method. Once you get the sidewall to touch, simply release pressure on the strap or rope, and inflate to the correct psi.

Yes, but when using a rope and a bar to twist it, it can build up a lot of tension in a hurry as the tire inflates. If you let go of the bar, it can spin with great enthusiasm and break things (like your arm).

Of course, it depends on the size of the tire, how fast it's inflating, etc. It never hurts to be cautious.

 

[Morrisman]

No as exciting as the fire tire posts above, but a dab of grease on the sharp end of woodscrews when driving them into good hard timber helps them bad boys slide right in without much effort.

 

[mikeatrpi]

Use PAM as an anti-spatter spray when welding. If you get the butter flavored variety it smells like cookies...

 

[Jared]

Thanks for the instructions on how to do this safely, no ill no what to do out on the trails if I really have to

Jared

 

[WVBrady]

I brought this back from the dead because I thought that there might be some new additions. I thought that it should have been a sticky, but that never happened.

What I just discovered might be common knowledge, but no one ever told me about it. Those little plastic connectors for connecting two wires have always been a bit of a struggle for me. I am talking about the ones that have a little locking tab that you have to push down in order to separate them. I always pushed down on the tab with a screwdriver while pulling the pieces apart with my other two hands, usually mangling the hook in the process. I just discovered that I could take a thin screwdriver and push down on the part of the hook between the two halves of the connection to unlock it and then just twist the screwdriver to separate the two sides. Much easier.

 

[metaleltr]

I saw a similar thread on another board, and figured I would start one over here. There are quite a few members who really know their **** and I would definetly like to learn from them. I would like to keep this leaning more towards automotive/repair type stuff

Here are my top 3...

1. Long Screwdrivers (and even prybars) are excellent for diagnosing noises. Wrap hand around grip and place thumb over the top, and place your ear to your thumb. They transfer noise very well.

2. Got a tough lugnut? (or any nut/bolt for that matter). Instead of hammering and hammering at it and risking beaking it, Try "rocking" the gun in forward and reverse a few times. Use a couple quick bursts. This helps to break the rust/oxidation between the threads. Of course, having a decently powerfull gun helps as well, but this seems to work just about every time I have tried it. Larger threads? Hammer just a tad longer each way. I usually run into problems on cars with lug "bolts," because the back of the hub is usually open, making them rust together quickly.

3. Got a gap in a floorpan or something you need to bridge? Either clamp or hold a small piece of aluminum the joint and tack the gaps together. The steel filler wire wont bond to the aluminum plate. It takes abit of getting used too, and it is still hard, but it makes it a bit easier with some practice.

Jim

Number 1 can be dangerous around moving objects, almost got knocked out that way once, invest in a mechanics stethoscope.

 

[dr.gizmo]

A little piece of paper towel placed on top of a hex bolt will hold it into the socket for hard to get at places.

Water is the best rust penetrant ever made. No, I am serious, what made the rust?

Placing an aspirin inside an automobile thermostat to hold it open will make the cooling system easier to fill. The aspirin will dissolve and allow the thermostat to close when the coolant hits it.

If all else fails read the directions

 

[ElectroLight]

When removing axles from a c-clip rear end, the cross-pin retaining bolt is often broken. You can remove the "head" of the bolt, but the remainder often stays in the carrier. To easily remove it, get a short bolt of the same size and pitch of the retaining bolt. The broken bolt can be used, if necessary.

Drill a 9/64" hole through the bolt along the centerline. Threading it into a nut and clamping vertically in a drill press vise works well.

Thread the drilled bolt into the carrier housing, over the broken section of pin. It will now serve as a drill guide. A 12" long 1/8" bit can be used to drill into the pin, and the drilled bolt will keep it centered. The long length provides enough flexibility to work around obstructions, such as the rear end housing.

Once the pin is drilled 1/4" or so, remove the bolt and tap in a 1/8" screw extractor. Grab the extractor with some pliers and pull the pin out.

It sounds complicated, but is very simple and works well.

Wow, I coulda used that tip a few years back! Good stuff.

 

[mtnkrake]

Pilot bearing removal part 3.

Pack the cavity with wet toilet paper and drive it out with the correct size rod.

 

[Outlawmws]

easy way to grip a threaded fastener in a vise without damaging the threads:

Take a spare nut the size of the threaded fastener, and use a hack saw to cut the nut though one side at a point. Then thread the nut onto the fastener.

Grip the nut on the flats so the cut slot is open to air, and the threaded fastener is held securely without buggering the threads.

 

[greasemonkey44]

these rotor screws that drive people crazy; just get a #3 phillips in 3/8" drive and put it on your cordless or air impact

 

[egnorant]

The rubber mallet...
If you have ever had a nut that had you thinking of the phrase "busted knuckle" usually a few whacks on the wrench with said rubber mallet will loosen it up.
I had the advantage of working in a garage with the mythical old mechanic when I was about 11 years old and he was always showing me "wisdom".

He actually had a wooden mallet that was used to "seat and unseat" nuts and bolts.
I swear he could set proper torque with his mallet and a box end wrench!
"Bend it, break it or drive it...use a metal hammer! everything else gets Edna (his mallets name)."

"If you gotta grunt, you got the wrong tool!" was one of his favorite sayings.
He was about 130 pounds after 3 beers.

Bruce

 

[lilredex]

Have to agree with that wooden mallet philosophy.......mine:

One regular use is unseating freewheels on my bike. With a long combination wrench and a good snap with the mallet, even the impossible ones come loose.

If you have dirty threads that need cleaning and they are difficult to reach, make up some thread chasers like these:

Just regular nuts of the appropriate thread size with a few saw cuts added. Places like "J" bolts on gas tanks and shock absorber studs come to mind. Try to tighten the nut first, a couple of turns, so you can get right close with your chaser. Be liberal with the oil ahead of time.

To reach some of those gas tank nuts, I made up an extended reach socket (9/16" in my case).

An old socket, piece of pipe and a 1/2" coupling nut welded together.

I usually change the nuts on the gas tank bolts to 1/2 of a coupling nut with saw cuts on both sides, so it can clean in both directions.

Another place I installed those saw cuts was on an old table saw. Both the tilt and the up/down adjustments had room to do that. No longer did the nut try to ride up on top of the sawdust in the threads, and with a bit of candle wax both adjustments operated like new.

 

[franzdom]

Pilot bearing removal part 3.

Pack the cavity with wet toilet paper and drive it out with the correct size rod.

I use shavings of bar soap

 

[aka Larry]

these rotor screws that drive people crazy; just get a #3 phillips in 3/8" drive and put it on your cordless or air impact

...and once you get them out throw them in the damn trash can!

 

[zuk123]

You can make an emergency tap from a bolt. It works great for threading aluminum, or cleaning up a threaded hole when you don't have a tap set. Take a file and file a groove longways into the bolt you are using. Undercut one side so you get sharp thread edges, and round off the other side of the groove for clearance. Make the groove deeper at the tip of the bolt. It helps to round over the tip and the first part of the bolt too so it can get started in the hole.

I've use this to clean out dirty holes, thread metric, cut threads when I'm on a jobsite and don't have what I need.

BTW, if you are in your shop and have it, use grade 8 and a cutoff wheel for a really sharp, durable tap. (Of course then, you should have your taps too, but if you don't...)

zuk

 

[jetmech09]

I posted a bunch in the thread like this in the general section.
If you're putting a washer in front of a nut upside down, superglue the washer to the nut.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17789&highlight=tips+tricks

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

Another variant on pilot bushing extraction...I have not tried it, and now I have the proper tool, but THIS is the improv one that makes sense:

Instead of regular grease/TP/whatever and then spending time cleaning up the mess, use PEANUT BUTTER. Do the job, then take a break for some coffee while your faithful dog does a complete and thorough cleanup.

 

[willhollin]

Weeping heating oil tanks, plastic or metal (Kerosene) can be temporarily stemmed by rubbing a bar of soap into the affected area.

Or if the hole is too big and at the bottom, run a trickle of water into the tank so that as the water sinks to the bottom, only that leaks out and not the heating oil.

 

[metaleltr]

Need a strap wrench? Don't have one? A belt, fan belt or even a leather belt clamped in vise grips works in a pinch.

 

[KinzeMech]

To get higher air flow seating a tough bead, don't bother with your air chuck. Just push the air line coupler down over the valve stem. (This assumes two things...that you are doing this with the valve stem removed, and are using air lines with 1/4" couplings). Useful when your air chuck is not handy, and more effective than an air chuck with a valve core depressor in it (eliminated flow restriction)

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

The starter fluid trick works,but it's dangerous. A coworker did one,stood too close,and singed his brows and lashes.
I've seen a tool used at Costco and in some tv shows,it's called a Cheetah bead sealer,seems to work well for pain-in-the-**** tires

I have used the Cheetah bead sealer, hee... it a beast, be careful with blast... Damn ears rings.... I hate when I have use it in car 4 times
lube lube lube lube lube lube the tire is one of the must important step, Ie using tire bead lube. also having the valve core removed helps..

 

[Link-Belt]

When drilling a 3/8 hole in 1/4" cold rolled steel using a drill press I burnt up 3 kobolt steel bits. The only other 3/8 bit I had was a masonary bit and it chowed through 23 holes before it was tosted. I had to clean the exit side of the holes a bit with a file but it was much easier and the bit lasted longer.

 

[jrlp]

3/8" hole in 1/4" should be doable hundreds of times per bit, even with a HSS bit. Use lube! Slower speed!

 

[bparksntx]

Draw a copy of your property plat and mark each sprinkler zone. Hang the drawing above your sprinkler control box for quick reference.

 

[sdguy55]

My boss just showed me this one today. My buddy was helping me fix my pickup and accidentally locked the doors with keys inside. Boss calmly walked over to an OLD chevy pickup (like 70s) and took off the wire holding the master brake resevoir down off. My pickup is a 92 f-150 so it has smoker windows. Threaded it underneath said window and the shape of it is perfect for depressing the lock bottun on the smokers window latch and also curls perfectly around the latch. Quick flick and pull and smokers window is open.

 

[jim2664258]

If you are changing something like a heater hose where the fitting goes into the firewall/front dash, and you are concerned about it breaking off and falling in there thereby requiring you to remove the whole dash to replace it, just cut the hose off 2" or so from the fitting. Then cut a slit in the remaining hose and tear it by hand. Very easy, and no risk of making a quick job into a full-day job.

 

[ev2mopar]

Here's a trick that I learned from a grouch, old, miserable creepy machinist;
In cases when you have a rusted or frozen bolt or nut, or a good example would be a coolant drain plug in a cast iron block.
Heat the area with a torch and then touch a candle to it. The wax from the candle will **** into the threads and often allow the plug to unscrew with minimal fuss.

 

[WVBrady]

Here is one that might be more appropriately addressed to your wife. To clean behind the faucets in the bathroom or wherever, a narrow brush designed to clean between the rear cogs on a bicycle is perfect. It fits much better than an old toothbrush.