Upgrading my 3/8 torque wrench

[2ndGearRubber]

Looking for a higher tooth count 3/8 drive torque wrench, 10-100lb standard range.

My family of torque wrenches are all USA made gear-wrench, back from the Husky/Gearwrench/Matco collaboration. Issue being; they're all 30 or 36 tooth, which really gave me issue torquing some obscured torque converter bolts today. Unless I can find a drop in kit to upgrade the tooth count (which I doubt), it's time to add another member to the family.

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So, my first check was Snap on, a used tech-angle is $200+, things are $500+ new. I'm also unsure about buying a used torquing product. I like the idea of having angle, not so much the idea of batteries though. Are the tech wrench/tech angle family reliable?

I looked at CDI and PI, but saw no tooth count listings. The shop split-beam PI is pretty low tooth count.

I also saw gear-wrench has released a 120XP torque wrench, but the handle looks freaking huge. All my wrenches fit in a 2" deep drawer currently, and smaller/slimmer is always better IMO. It's also around 200 if you want angle, otherwise I'm not really interested in electronics.




Also, is there a limit on angle vs. torque? Like torquing flywheel bolts to 50ft/lbs + 90*, but the effective torque of that action is 105ft/lbs, and the wrench is only rated for 100. Will it just give up on me and refuse to torque? Has anyone used the clamp on attachments like brownline or summit?


So what should I be looking at? I'm all for buying once, but any money I save on this tool can be put towards others.

 

[d.mcfarland]

I bought a used Snap-on tech wrench (older 36 tooth model) a few years ago and it has held it's calibration very well. I would kill for the new 80 tooth models because I think it would last a number of years.

I looked quickly on Zoro and the CDI products are even more than Snap-on, so that's a no go.

Harbor Freight 72 tooth for $125 (don't know how much I trust it and no flex head):

 

[seber]

The SO Tech angle is repairable but eventually anything electronic will become useless. If you are looking for something that will last forever you need to stick with old school beam angle or split beam. Nice thing about those is you never need to worry about calibration.

 

[Audiophilefred]

I have a Cdi 3/8 and 1/2 they seem higher than 36T

 

[parks31]

Check out the central tools 97352a 3/8 drive tourque wrench. Made here in the USA.

 

[visionguru]

....
Are the tech wrench/tech angle family reliable?
......
I also saw gear-wrench has released a 120XP torque wrench, but the handle looks freaking huge. All my wrenches fit in a 2" deep drawer currently, and smaller/slimmer is always better IMO. ....

Also, is there a limit on angle vs. torque? Like torquing flywheel bolts to 50ft/lbs + 90*, but the effective torque of that action is 105ft/lbs, and the wrench is only rated for 100. Will it just give up on me and refuse to torque? Has anyone used the clamp on attachments like brownline or summit?


So what should I be looking at? I'm all for buying once, but any money I save on this tool can be put towards others.

Techwrench/Techangle is quite reliable. Digital torque wrench is basically a measuring device, without moving parts (well, except the ratchet head). The torque is measured by a sensor (strain gauge), then circuit board gives out lights/vibration/beeps based on your desired torque value. It's inherently more reliable/accurate than mechanical wrenches, because there is nothing to be "worn", and there is no spring to loose tension (thus requiring calibration). As for battery, it will warn you about battery change, and it takes less time to change batteries than returning a mechanical torque wrench all the way to the lowest setting.

My first digital wrench was a used Techwrench, 10 years old, still working perfectly and accurate.

The new 120xp is actually not as thick as it appears. The maximum diameter is 1 3/4" , a hair thicker than Techangle 1 2/3", but the actual handle is actually slimmer.

There is no limit, because it's just a ratchet with torque measure. You can go as far as you want. However, if you over torque 25% (per Snap On literature), you may get an error message and require factory service.

My recommendations:
(1) >$200: a used Snap On Techangle. It's the best overall.
(2) <$200: Gearwrench 120xp, it might be the best deal in performance/price.

 

[Lucid Moments]

I am planning on buying a precision instruments split beam as soon as I can afford it and need it.

 

[plinker]

I bought a 3/8 techangle about two years ago I think. The boss has a 1/2 drive version and that is generally better for doing angle torque about half the time or more as there is a 100-110lb max torque rating with the 3/8 version and you dont want to go over that as I understand it. Just depends on what it is. I had an axle nut on a '15 sonic that was 30ft lb + 200* which according to the 1/2 drive wrench equaled a bit over 200ft lb. That said, buying both 3/8 & 1/2 are the correct answer.

I do not care for the dual 80 in general, but I put up with it on the torque wrench. The wrench was 500-ish, but came with a "bonus" socket set (promo at the time). So a little less painful (sort of). Never had an issue with batteries, I do have Energizer lithium's in it currently with no plan to change that to regular alkaline.


CDI also has their own electronic wrench, I dont think it had all the same functions as the Snap-on though. Dont remember tooth count off hand. It didnt have the vibration either when it reaches torque, but I generally go by the audio/visual anyway.

FWIW, I have an "older" S-K branded Danaher sourced 3/8 5-75 lb flex head torque wrench and the Matco 88 flex head ratchet head is a drop in replacement for the 36 tooth head (didnt add length to the unit). I did this before getting the techangle and it was night and day with the 36tooth head.

Any flex head torque wrench sourced from Danaher should be able to be modified the exact same way in 1/4 3/8 & 1/2 drive. Round heads may not apply though, not sure.

 

[bob15]

Another option is Sturtevant Richmont (who is also under the Snap On umbrella of tools). Not sure on the tooth count, but a simple call could probably answer that.

https://www.srtorque.com/error-proofing-tools/micrometer-adjustable-torque-wrenches/knurl-grip-micrometer-adjustable-click-wrenches/knurl-grip-sdr-series-micrometer-adjustable-click-wrench/

 

[IPFreely]

Tech angle tips: Do not leave the batteries in when not in use. If you buy a used one, get one with the newer style screw-on battery cap. This is a great read:
https://ashermade.com/2016/06/11/snap-on-tech2fr100-techwrench-repair/

Notice the terminal corrosion, from leaving the batteries in... and cap differences.

 

[Wamsutta]

The SO Tech angle is repairable but eventually anything electronic will become useless. If you are looking for something that will last forever you need to stick with old school beam angle or split beam. Nice thing about those is you never need to worry about calibration.

Which wrench would you suggest for 37 (lb ft.) plus 120 degrees?

 

[visionguru]

Tech angle tips: Do not leave the batteries in when not in use. If you buy a used one, get one with the newer style screw-on battery cap. This is a great read:
https://ashermade.com/2016/06/11/snap-on-tech2fr100-techwrench-repair/

Notice the terminal corrosion, from leaving the batteries in... and cap differences.

Another solution is using lithium batteries, which will not leak. Snap On Techangles came with lithium batteries from factory.

 

[Mgdoug3]

Which wrench would you suggest for 37 (lb ft.) plus 120 degrees?

I can't tell if you're trolling or not. If not, I would use a 1/2" digital torque wrench. My Snap-on was really handy when torquing John Deere rod bolts to 55 lbs then 90 degrees. The final torque came to 194 foot lbs. Way more than any 3/8s goes to.

If you want old school, companies still make degree wheels and no batteries required.

 

[bob15]

If you want old school, companies still make degree wheels and no batteries required.

Wright tool # 9L28100 (and mine still works fine after 2 decades):

 

[Mgdoug3]

Wright tool # 9L28100 (and mine still works fine after 2 decades):

I almost bought one of those once but I ended up with a new digital Snap-on torque that I traded truck parts I no longer needed and a Snap-on driver who needed them. Still might pick one up just as backup.

 

[bob15]

I almost bought one of those once but I ended up with a new digital Snap-on torque that I traded truck parts I no longer needed and a Snap-on driver who needed them. Still might pick one up just as backup.

I bought mine around 1997/98. I don't use it much, but it is handy when I need it. And like you said before, battery life is awesome!!! Still using the original batteries......

 

[Wamsutta]

I can't tell if you're trolling or not. If not, I would use a 1/2" digital torque wrench. My Snap-on was really handy when torquing John Deere rod bolts to 55 lbs then 90 degrees. The final torque came to 194 foot lbs. Way more than any 3/8s goes to.

If you want old school, companies still make degree wheels and no batteries required.

Trolling? It's the head bolt torque spec for a Buick 3800 V6.

 

[Djosbun]

A torque wrench is not meant for fastening, so having a high tooth count is completely unnecessary. A torque wrench is for the final tightening of the fastener.

-- Dave

 

[PWC Repair]

Another option is Sturtevant Richmont (who is also under the Snap On umbrella of tools). Not sure on the tooth count, but a simple call could probably answer that.

https://www.srtorque.com/error-proofing-tools/micrometer-adjustable-torque-wrenches/knurl-grip-micrometer-adjustable-click-wrenches/knurl-grip-sdr-series-micrometer-adjustable-click-wrench/

Interesting tidbit....a couple years ago now old man Sturtevant died......he lived here in my town! A friend of mine bought a bunch of stuff from his son who still lives here. I bought a jet ski....the old man had 4 of them!!

Correction: The son Lee passed and the Grandson still lives here.

 

[plinker]

A torque wrench is not meant for fastening, so having a high tooth count is completely unnecessary. A torque wrench is for the final tightening of the fastener.

-- Dave

In tight spots such as the rear spark plugs on a 5.4L Ford for instance, it is a night and day difference having a 60+ tooth vs having a 36-45 tooth torque wrench. Yes the torque wrench is for final tightening, but when you can only get 1-2 teeth to click with a 36 tooth ratchet it gets very frustrating/annoying fast.

There is a reason regular ratchets have more teeth these days, torque tools are not any different and have been somewhat slow to catch up for no apparent reason.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

A torque wrench is not meant for fastening, so having a high tooth count is completely unnecessary. A torque wrench is for the final tightening of the fastener.

-- Dave

In tight spots such as the rear spark plugs on a 5.4L Ford for instance, it is a night and day difference having a 60+ tooth vs having a 36-45 tooth torque wrench. Yes the torque wrench is for final tightening, but when you can only get 1-2 teeth to click with a 36 tooth ratchet it gets very frustrating/annoying fast.

There is a reason regular ratchets have more teeth these days, torque tools are not any different and have been somewhat slow to catch up for no apparent reason.

Thank you. The lash of the ratchet was limiting me through the 4 inch space I had to swing the wrench to reach these bolts. The toyota 4.6L doesn't have a TC cover plate where the bolts are wide open. You remove the passenger manifold, then the starter, and there's a plastic clip wedged between the block and starter that covers the 3 inch tall access area. Then you're limited on wrench swing by the frame, body, and block webbing. Crank must be stabilized via the front pulley, no access for a traditional flywheel older bracket or flywheel turning wrench, so now any ratchet lash issues are doubled.



Gearwrench has done me well, 3/8 is 200, 1/2 is $220. My main interest for angle is due to annoyance from the old school angle gauges as posted above. I think I have ruled out split beam due to how wide they are, at least the shops PI is a solid 2".

 

[RKA]

A torque wrench is not meant for fastening, so having a high tooth count is completely unnecessary. A torque wrench is for the final tightening of the fastener.

-- Dave

So we will assume you only own beam torque wrenches then.

No thanks for me. The high tooth ratchets allow you to work in more confined spaces and the long handles on torque wrenches only result in larger swing distances. The high tooth heads can reduce that. I get by most of the time with my low tooth heads, but having a >72 tooth head would be helpful in some cases.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Ended up buying the 120xp 3/8 drive. Very happy with my purchase, the fine tooth head helped torquing some obscured plugs on a porsche.

 

[The Critic]

Ended up buying the 120xp 3/8 drive. Very happy with my purchase, the fine tooth head helped torquing some obscured plugs on a porsche.

Are you still happy with it?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Are you still happy with it?

Nope, sold it. Using the angle process was entirely unintuitive. I had to read the instruction manual every single time. As a comparison I picked up a tech-angle and found the angle function with little/no effort never opening the instructions. That could be considered personal preference. I don't think I'm stupid, but I could not internalize the GW instructions.

The tech-angle also offered higher maximum torque, I think the gear wrench was 100, the TA is 125. That's actually a pretty big deal to me. Lots of engine bay work dictates 3/8 drive but you need 75ft/lb + of torque. Sometimes it's torque+angle and you can torque then use markings for the angle, but one tool is superior. The gear wrench was WAY better than what I was using. Digital, 120xp head, etc. But I thought the disadvantages of the GW warranted replacement as I used it.


I have a 1/4 (20ft/lb), 3/8 (125ft/lb), and 1/2 (300 ft/lb) tech angle now. For more basic use I have a 1/4 cornwell clicker, a 3/8 snap on clicker, and a 3/4 PI split beam. I still have the 30 tooth GW 1/4 and 1/2 clicker, should probably find a new home for them. I use the tech-angles almost daily so the cost was less of an issue. MSRP on a set of 3 tech angles is like $2500 though. So I still see the place for the cheaper digital.

 

[dnschmidt]

Which wrench would you suggest for 37 (lb ft.) plus 120 degrees?

One with a higher maximum torque rating than 100 ft-lb. You will not believe how much that additional 120 degrees increases the amount of torque. A 250 ft-lb model will handle it but not a 100 ft-lb model.

 

[The Critic]

Nope, sold it. Using the angle process was entirely unintuitive. I had to read the instruction manual every single time. As a comparison I picked up a tech-angle and found the angle function with little/no effort never opening the instructions. That could be considered personal preference. I don't think I'm stupid, but I could not internalize the GW instructions.

The tech-angle also offered higher maximum torque, I think the gear wrench was 100, the TA is 125. That's actually a pretty big deal to me. Lots of engine bay work dictates 3/8 drive but you need 75ft/lb + of torque. Sometimes it's torque+angle and you can torque then use markings for the angle, but one tool is superior. The gear wrench was WAY better than what I was using. Digital, 120xp head, etc. But I thought the disadvantages of the GW warranted replacement as I used it.


I have a 1/4 (20ft/lb), 3/8 (125ft/lb), and 1/2 (300 ft/lb) tech angle now. For more basic use I have a 1/4 cornwell clicker, a 3/8 snap on clicker, and a 3/4 PI split beam. I still have the 30 tooth GW 1/4 and 1/2 clicker, should probably find a new home for them. I use the tech-angles almost daily so the cost was less of an issue. MSRP on a set of 3 tech angles is like $2500 though. So I still see the place for the cheaper digital.

This is very helpful, thanks. I already own the full Techangle collection but have an opportunity to purchase the current Matco electronic torque wrenches at an extremely favorable price. I figured that your GW experience is probably very representative of the current Matco offerings?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

This is very helpful, thanks. I already own the full Techangle collection but have an opportunity to purchase the current Matco electronic torque wrenches at an extremely favorable price. I figured that your GW experience is probably very representative of the current Matco offerings?

I'm not sure about that, they look quite different. Probably the easiest way to tell would be the LCD screen, menu, etc.

 

[Chipm]

As another data point, I just picked up the Icon 5-75 from HF and I am very impressed with the apparent build quality.

My favorite, though, is still my TCI (pre Utica) 5-75. It is tiny - I think 14" overall.