Used Clean Burn 1800

[Fonecop1]

I bought this used Clean Burn 1800 yesterday and am ready to start tinkering with it and bench test it before I install it. It’s a date code 11/98 and has 15,000 hours on the burner. The guy I got it from got it on a trade and said it was used in a barn to supply heat for a guys dogs and was replaced with a gas furnace because they were tired of maintaining it, I guess I will find out how true that statement was. I figured if I couldn’t get it running a replacement burner is $500 and I only gave $900 for it with a pump so hoping not to get hurt on it. It needs cleaned so I’m hoping they got to the maintenance service and just decided to upgrade to gas like the story goes.

 

[BKB]

If it has a regulator on the oil supply line you might want to look into a metering pump style. I built a waste oil boiler and furnace and clean them every other year. I change oil filters every 3-5 years only because the o-ring tends to leak, they are not clogged.

 

[Shop Specialties]

I bought this used Clean Burn 1800 yesterday and am ready to start tinkering with it and bench test it before I install it. It’s a date code 11/98 and has 15,000 hours on the burner. The guy I got it from got it on a trade and said it was used in a barn to supply heat for a guys dogs and was replaced with a gas furnace because they were tired of maintaining it, I guess I will find out how true that statement was. I figured if I couldn’t get it running a replacement burner is $500 and I only gave $900 for it with a pump so hoping not to get hurt on it. It needs cleaned so I’m hoping they got to the maintenance service and just decided to upgrade to gas like the story goes.

Hello, I am a Clean Burn dist and have been doing nothing but waste oil heater/boiler sales/service for 30 years. I am more than happy to help by giving you some tips before you install if you would like.

 

[Fonecop1]

I’m sure I’ll have questions. I opened it up yesterday and cleaned it out. The seal on the clean out door had failed and it was leaking past the primary heat exchanger and right into the output of the secondary heat exchanger and right out the flue. It had done a little damage to the metal that separates the two exchanger chambers where the leak was so I am going to patch that up and replace the seal.

 

[Fonecop1]

If it has a regulator on the oil supply line you might want to look into a metering pump style. I built a waste oil boiler and furnace and clean them every other year. I change oil filters every 3-5 years only because the o-ring tends to leak, they are not clogged.

The pump I got with it is a Suntec J3NBN-A132B

 

[Shop Specialties]

I’m sure I’ll have questions. I opened it up yesterday and cleaned it out. The seal on the clean out door had failed and it was leaking past the primary heat exchanger and right into the output of the secondary heat exchanger and right out the flue. It had done a little damage to the metal that separates the two exchanger chambers where the leak was so I am going to patch that up and replace the seal.

That seal does not do much and the exhaust flows through the tubes. That stainless steel baffle will warp/crack over time and that is normal. Look closely at the barrel on the opposite end of the burner top/bottom for cracks. It is very common for them to start cracking there.

What did it have for a target plate ?

Starting with the back tubes hit each one with a hammer to make sure they ring. They rot out over time and might as well find out now if any have an issue.

 

[Fonecop1]

I’m going to patch up where you can see it’s more than a crack. The target feels like it’s firebrick and the bottom bolt isn’t attached, not sure if the service guy did that so he could access the chamber easier for cleaning. I didn’t see any cracks on the target end and will go over it better to be sure. I cleaned out the tubes yesterday and didn’t notice anything that looked like rot through, will take a better look there too. What about burner life? Is 15,000 hours still serviceable orgetting pretty long in the tooth?

 

[Shop Specialties]

I’m going to patch up where you can see it’s more than a crack. The target feels like it’s firebrick and the bottom bolt isn’t attached, not sure if the service guy did that so he could access the chamber easier for cleaning. I didn’t see any cracks on the target end and will go over it better to be sure. I cleaned out the tubes yesterday and didn’t notice anything that looked like rot through, will take a better look there too. What about burner life? Is 15,000 hours still serviceable orgetting pretty long in the tooth?

That baffle is pretty rough so it would be good to at least patch it. There is replacement 2 bolt targets still available if you need one. I like to remove the fan to get a good look at the tubes and back panels of the firebox. That is the first place to rot since when the fan kicks on it blows cold air across the hot box.

Burner rebuilds are normal heater maintenance that Clean Burn recommends doing every year. We say that is excessive and as long the power is turned off every Summer you should be able to easily do them every 2-3+ years. I would absolutely do a burner rebuild and install a service kit before starting.

 

[BKB]

Im not a pro just been building and using waste oil furnaces and boilers for 15 years on my property. Thats the old J-pump so you will have a regulator probably 1.5-3 psi of oil pressure up by the burner. I have played with these units a bit and they seem to work best if the tank and unit are in a constant temp building using the same kind - weight oil. I run a metering pump since my tank is outside to free up space. And i might run hydraulic oil, ATF, 15-40 tractor oil, 0-20w motor oil. The metering pump just works the same no matter what. You can change yours to a metering pump at any time if you find yourself having to adjust the pressures all the time for the correct flame.

 

[Shop Specialties]

The J-pump is the best pump for waste oil. We put them on every single heater and with the new style CB burner there is no issues with having to adjust pressure all the time.

The metered A-pump for this heater would cost more than the heater is worth.

 

[Fonecop1]

My original shop is 30x56 non insulated with 10 foot walls And I Recently added 30x30 Insulated onto it with 14 foot walls and a lift. I don’t work over there every day so probably would plan to run it when I know I’m going to be working over there and if it’s a busy weekend maybe just let it run all weekend and bump it down at night. Do you see any problem with running it like that... off and on throughout the heating season?

 

[Fonecop1]

I haven’t pulled the fan yet but did finish vacuuming out the baffles and didn’t see anything like it was close to rusting through. Will eventually pull the fan and ping the baffles. For the burner rebuild is that something I can do with a kit of parts or is it strictly an exchange? Also what is in the service kit? Thanks for your help.

 

[Shop Specialties]

So we are only heating a 30x30 insulated space with this ? If so that is way overkill and not ideal.

When the power is on the preheat block always maintaining 140*+ so if the oil is not moving through the block it will bake faster which is not good.

 

[Fonecop1]

No will be heating the entire 30x86. I realized that about the block heater so I guess it would add 15 minutes to startup for the block to heat up if you shut it down at the breaker in between uses.

 

[Shop Specialties]

I haven’t pulled the fan yet but did finish vacuuming out the baffles and didn’t see anything like it was close to rusting through. Will eventually pull the fan and ping the baffles. For the burner rebuild is that something I can do with a kit of parts or is it strictly an exchange? Also what is in the service kit? Thanks for your help.

When I do burner rebuilds I take them home and do them. I totally break down the burner and scrub out the preheat block/nozzle holder with gun cleaning brushes and solvent. I also run them through my ultrasonic cleaner. You want every single passage to be shiny spotless clean with nothing left behind. Then I clean up everything else.

The service kit contains regulator guts and o-rings, solenoid guts and o-rings, electrode, nozzle.

You can do it yourself but maybe check to see what your local CB dist to see what they charge and if possible to do an burner exchange. Personally I do not do exchanges just rebuilds.

 

[930dreamer]

OP didn't mention a wall separating the two buildings wondering if there connected?

I'd love to see a video of a rebuild.

 

[Shop Specialties]

No will be heating the entire 30x86. I realized that about the block heater so I guess it would add 15 minutes to startup for the block to heat up if you shut it down at the breaker in between uses.

Ok, that will be much better and you could leave the thermostat set at 50* while you are not in there then bump up to whatever you like.

 

[Shop Specialties]

OP didn't mention a wall separating the two buildings wondering if there connected?

I'd love to see a video of a rebuild.

Burner rebuilds are classified information and not to mention a long boring process. I know there is some 1/2 **** ones on YouTube that are ok but not great.

 

[Fonecop1]

No walls in between I wanted it wide open to fit more junk/treasure

 

[Fonecop1]

When I do burner rebuilds I take them home and do them. I totally break down the burner and scrub out the preheat block/nozzle holder with gun cleaning brushes and solvent. I also run them through my ultrasonic cleaner. You want every single passage to be shiny spotless clean with nothing left behind. Then I clean up everything else.

The service kit contains regulator guts and o-rings, solenoid guts and o-rings, electrode, nozzle.

You can do it yourself but maybe check to see what your local CB dist to see what they charge and if possible to do an burner exchange. Personally I do not do exchanges just rebuilds.

I sent you an email

 

[Fonecop1]

Duane, what do you use for solution in the sonic bath? I have a cleaner that’s big enough and will probably go with a kit and boil it out. I patched up the baffle and am resealing the door. Going over it I found one of the cad wires was broke so fixed that. Also when I checked the nozzle they had it sticking out 3/8 through the retention head so I wiped it clean and set it back to 1/8. I’m thinking about trying to test fire it here after while just to see what it does.

 

[Shop Specialties]

Sounds like you are making some good progress.

I use Shellac Buster from SharperTek for my ultrasonic cleaner. You could pull the oil regulator which is quick/easy and see how much stuff is built up under it.

 

[Fonecop1]

I pulled the oil regulator and it was a little bit thick but not gunked up at all really. When I started going through the startup procedure I checked the air band and they had it set to about an inch open so I cranked it back to 3/8. Went through pump priming and the startup process and it fired right up. I didn’t run it but a few minutes because I didn’t have the door bolted on and I don’t have a flue hooked up, really just wanted to know if it was going to fire before I fly into installing it and punching a flue through the roof.

 

[Shop Specialties]

Started up easy so that is good.

 

[Fonecop1]

That regulator hadn’t been off recently and o rings were pretty flat

 

[Fonecop1]

I’m thinking about this end corner for a location and hang it about 8 foot off of the floor. Figured I would stretch some pieces of angle across between the bottom chord of the end truss and the first truss and angle it a little to point the heater to the opposite corner at the other end of the building. I’m calculating that the flue would land between the second and third roof purlin.

 

[Shop Specialties]

Personally I hate hanging heaters. You already need to have a tank so build a simple stand around it throw the heater on it and done. I am not big on corners either since it can make it more difficult to get a ladder in there for maintenance.

 

[Fonecop1]

Personally I hate hanging heaters. You already need to have a tank so build a simple stand around it throw the heater on it and done. I am not big on corners either since it can make it more difficult to get a ladder in there for maintenance.

So I’m planning to use a 275 gallon tote for my oil, I have some angle that I could use to build a stand to go over the tote I guess

 

[Shop Specialties]

So I’m planning to use a 275 gallon tote for my oil, I have some angle that I could use to build a stand to go over the tote I guess

Maybe depending how much angle iron you have build a bottom that the tote would sit on and that would provide an excellent ballast for the stand. Then your stand legs could come off the corners. Maybe ?

 

[Fonecop1]

That’s a good idea. I’m gonna dig through and see how much angle I have. I probably have enough

 

[HOAnthony]

Hello

Say thanks to you you

 

[Fonecop1]

Duane, I was thinking about using a Selkirk universal roof support but I’m wondering how that would work with the ridges on the metal roof? Do they make one for a ridged metal roof?

 

[Shop Specialties]

Duane, I was thinking about using a Selkirk universal roof support but I’m wondering how that would work with the ridges on the metal roof? Do they make one for a ridged metal roof?

Sorry for not getting back to you quicker, it has been a long 450 mile work day.

I use the Selkirk 200250 and it works very well. You are going to want to center on a ridge then use a 5 gallon bucket lid to trace out a circle. If the wings do not lay flat on the roof you can trim them down to fit.

 

[Fonecop1]

That’s a long day, and then Dektite boot right? Thanks

 

[Shop Specialties]

That’s a long day, and then Dektite boot right? Thanks

Yep, a Dektite #9 will fit snugly over 8" Selkirk Ultra-Temp so no trimming necessary.

 

[Fonecop1]

Yep, a Dektite #9 will fit snugly over 8" Selkirk Ultra-Temp so no trimming necessary.

I am looking at picking up some used metalbestos 8s.30 sections to use for this, Do you see any problems with that pipe for this application?

 

[Shop Specialties]

I am looking at picking up some used metalbestos 8s.30 sections to use for this, Do you see any problems with that pipe for this application?

As long as it is in good shape it should be fine.

 

[Fonecop1]

Thanks Duane

 

[Fonecop1]

What do you recommend for inside pipe between the furnace and the class a pipe?

 

[Shop Specialties]

What do you recommend for inside pipe between the furnace and the class a pipe?

I would just use regular old 24 gauge stovepipe that is easily found in your area.