Used Clean Burn 1800
- Thread starter Fonecop1
- Start date
Duane, I’m having trouble finding the adapter that goes from the Class A Metalbestos pipe to my inside pipe. I bought one and it didn’t fit. I’m waiting for a callback from a local guy but was wondering if you had a good source for that adapter? I found this one on Amazon “Selkirk 8Dsp-CPA Adaptr 8" Dsp Chimney” and think it might be the right one but not sure and it has like a 2 week lead time.
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Thanks Duane, I got that adapter and it worked on my Class a pipe. I just rounded up the rest of my smoke pipe and checked it out since the male ends of the smoke pipe goes up I plan to just cut the crimp off of the last piece so it’s female to female. My damper is coming later in the week and that should get me about there
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Those adapters are nice so you can slide the single wall up/down it. Make sure you clamp or run a couple of screws through the adapter otherwise it will unscrew itself from the class A as it gets hot and cools.
I’ll do that
I don’t have the Dektite 9 yet ordering tonight. Looks like it’s pretty big so will probably cover 3 ridges on my tin, the ribs on my tin are 9 inches apart. And yeh I’m gonna have to whack some off of those wings to get them to go between the ribs
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I have been cutting off about 2" on each wing before I even leave just so I do not have to do it at the jobsite. The boot will shrink a little bit when you start forming it over the ridges.
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Having the 18" through the roof on the inside is good. I am not sure what you are asking with your second question.
I framed between the purlins with 2x4s on edge where the roof support will sit and that ads another 3 1/2 if I’m trying to make the class A protrude 18 inches past any combustibles so I’ll just set it for 21 1/2. Gonna go cut the hole in a bit since my dektite is out for delivery today. Thanks for all your help and sorry for a lot of dumb questions I just hate doing things twice because of dumb mistakes.
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I see what you are saying and you are doing good. You have been asking good questions and hopefully my answers are making things easier.
My draft control is adjustable and I’m not sure where to set it. Manual Says -2 to -4 over fire so I’m not sure where to be on this control as -4 here doesn’t translate to -4 over fire.
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You need to check draft with a gauge at the little hole in the inspection door. Then you adjust the damper accordingly. A lot of the time a damper can be more of a PITA than it does good. To start off just adjust it so it stays closed.
Well I got the flue finished and got plumbing done into a 55 gallon drum until I get the tote filled up enough to pick up oil. I got it primes and when I went to do the startup I didn't get the oil pressure up before the 10 second marker and now no matter what I do I can't get the pump to run. I've hit the reset, Ive powered it down for 30 minutes then started it up and waited the 15 minutes but no dice on getting the pump to run. I went back to the pump priming procedure and tried to start over and no matter what the pump doesn't start. Is there another reset or something I need to do to reset the pump after missing that step in the startup process?
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You need to have a minimum of 40 PSI of air coming into the burner and then you adjust the air regulator on the burner to 12-14 PSI.
There is an air proving switch on the preheat block that if it does not see at least 30 PSI it will not send power to the oil pump.
I have a regulator there that was set at 50 but I didn’t check it after the trouble. I will run back over there and check the air pressure. So you don’t think it had anything to do with me not getting to the oil regulator before the 10 seconds? It worked fine when I primed the pump so I wasn’t sure what was going on.
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The oil pump should run if there adequate air pressure no matter what you have the oil regulator adjusted to. Also double check around the oil pump motor for a reset button.
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Okay then you have 12-14 air psi on the burner gauge ?
correct 14 on the gauge at the burner and 52 at the regulator. I'm thinking I can jumper that air pressure switch and see if it starts, if it does the air pressure switch is bad or another reason not getting enough pressure to satisfy it.
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First double check your yellow quick disconnect power cord. Over time the little pins burn out.
The air proving switch gets power from the combustion air motor sail switch. The sail switch can fail but the motor is still good.
I checked those pins and none looked like they were hot and corroded or anything. I disconnected the power and checked the black from the pump to the proving switch and it's good all the way. They i checked the white from the pump all the way to #2 on the wiring block and its good too.
well looks like I was wrong on my guess. I jumpered the air pressure switch and the pump came on. So I guess that proves it bad because if it was the sail switch jumpering the pressure switch wouldn't make a difference, correct?
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Is there power from the sail switch to air proving switch air ?
I would remove both sail switch wires then run a wire from I think it should be #10 to air proving switch.
I would remove both sail switch wires then run a wire from I think it should be #10 to air proving switch.
I was thinking the air switch is NO and is closed when it’s satisfied with the presence of the 40ish lbs of air pressure and by jumpering it and seeing the pump run that proves that the sail switch is providing power and that the pressure switch isn’t closing like it should?
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I am tired and not following well with what you are saying. Did you remove both sail switch wires and run a wire from #10 to air proving switch ?
Checked and there is power from the sail switch to the air pressure switch and it only runs the pump when I jumper across at the air switch. Next I removed the switch to take a look and with it removed I gave it some air and no air is was coming out where it screws into the block. So I tried starting it a couple times and all of a sudden air was coming out of the block, i didn't see anything come out like an obstruction cleared. I guess the air solenoid is upwind of there and could be sticking? I also took the pressure switch and fed it 50 lbs of air and it closed like it should. I just hooked it back up and gonna try it in a few minutes after the block warms up.
So i tried it and the pump didn't come on but another try or 2 and it did then it doesn't. I can adjust the air pressure on the regulator to 14 lbs so the air is getting to there but not enough to satisfy the switch I guess since the switch is right there in the same passage as the air gauge where I am getting at least 14 lbs? when it doesn't run I have voltage to the pressure switch but it's not closed sending it toward the pump.
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You could take the air solenoid apart to make sure it is not restricted. If the previous owner had an air compressor that produced more water than air then the plunger can get corroded. After it is trying to fire are we maintaining 50+ PSI coming in ? Maybe bump it up to 60 PSI while it is trying to fire.
With the age of the unit it is possible you have a bad air proving switch.
I will pull that solenoid apart and see. The regulator has been staying on 50 and I haven’t tried hitting it with more than that but I can, when I tested the switch at 50 it closed. I guess I could check it at lower pressures and see where it closes to get an idea how it’s working.
The solenoid is threaded into the block I guess? Also haven’t tried yet but is there a trick to removing the wires from the wiring block like press down with a pocket screwdriver in the side without a wire to release it?
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To remove the wires you use a pocket screwdriver and push down on the release tabs next to the wire you want to remove. If the solenoid magnet has a plastic body remove the E-clip then the body and the stem screws into the block.
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I pulled the air solenoid off and there wasn’t any corrosion on the plunger or the plunger guide assembly. I looked at pulling out the manifold mount solenoid body but the Oring on top of it is really hard and smashed in there so to remove that I’d need the replacement body oring to go back in with. Does the air pressure switch get its supply after the air regulator at the 14 or so lbs it gets adjusted to? The reason I ask is because I Bench tested it with 50 lbs and it closed but I didn’t test it at lower pressures like 14 or lower. I can pull it out of there and do that pretty easy to see if it closes with like 10 To 15 lbs
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I would just go ahead and replace it. You have checked enough things and there is no restrictions on the air side.
So I tested the air pressure switch on the bench and it would close with as little as 5 lbs of pressure. I put it back in and it wouldn’t close so I thought well the only difference is the load so I disconnected the side going to the oil pump and it would close and I had voltage thru the switch. When I hooked the oil pump wire back up it wouldn’t close but I figured out if I brought the air pressure up to 16 to 18 lbs instead of the 14 it would close and run the pump. At this point I think I’m ready to condemn the air pressure switch because it won’t close with a load on it at the recommended pressure. So once I figured that out I got it to fire and it ran a bit but the oil pressure was fluctuating quite a bit and it died so I figured I had a suction line issue since I have it plumbed to the 55 gal drum with a 3/4 suction rated hose. I disconnected the line at the block and ran the priming process for about a gallon and a half and it was spitting and pulsing so I need to get my tote filled up to level so I can plumb my hard line into it and do away with the suction hose.
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Duane I took a break during the really cold weather but I replaced the air pressure switch and I’m back working on it and putting a burner kit in it. When I took the solenoids out I am guessing this is the oring flattened and baked in there? Before I started trying to chip it out I wanted to make sure that wasn’t a seat or something, I kind of poked around on it and it’s so hard it doesn’t resemble rubber at all
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Duane I took a break during the really cold weather but I replaced the air pressure switch and I’m back working on it and putting a burner kit in it. When I took the solenoids out I am guessing this is the oring flattened and baked in there? Before I started trying to chip it out I wanted to make sure that wasn’t a seat or something, I kind of poked around on it and it’s so hard it doesn’t resemble rubber at all
Yep, it is just a plain old rubber o-ring but that one has been in there a while.