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Using engine hoist to lift truck bed

signcrafter

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Anyone have or make one of these, http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/cha...p-10170.aspx?gclid=CNPtrIjwjLkCFSJqMgod2REApQ or http://www.innovativetools.com/shop/innovative-bed-lift/? I need to take off my bed to get to the gas tank, the bed is on there loose right now so just need to pick it up. I've always thought about making one of these just to make things easy, I usually work alone. Think I might try to throw something together tonight if I have enough metal laying around. Just wondering how they work and if anyone has one? Has anyone made one themselves? If so can you show some pictures?
 
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ilovevocs

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I have the door and bumper dolly. It's a really nice piece and I have considered buying the bed unit. For the price it's not worth building IMHO. The door unit is well made. Mine is pushing 7 or right years old now.

Presently I lift beds with a few ratchet straps and a fork truck, if I didn't have the or truck I would have likely bought into this unit by now. My local jobber used to stock their full product line, they still may, I just haven't inquired lately.
 
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signcrafter

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I have the door and bumper dolly. It's a really nice piece and I have considered buying the bed unit. For the price it's not worth building IMHO. The door unit is well made. Mine is pushing 7 or right years old now.

Presently I lift beds with a few ratchet straps and a fork truck, if I didn't have the or truck I would have likely bought into this unit by now. My local jobber used to stock their full product line, they still may, I just haven't inquired lately.

I hear you that it's a great price but right now I have more time then money and should have everything to make one. I just rebuilt the motor and putting that in and have a bunch of body work to do so don't really want to spend 250 bucks for something I will only use once every few years.
 

rsanter

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3 pieces of 2x4 and some chain or ratchet straps would get the same thing done..
Cut 2 2x4s to lenth to fit under the bed rail.
Cut another one to ge between the first 2 to for an H shape and screw them together.
Lift with chain or ratchet straps and the cherry picker or come alongs to the rafters

Bob
 
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signcrafter

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3 pieces of 2x4 and some chain or ratchet straps would get the same thing done..
Cut 2 2x4s to lenth to fit under the bed rail.
Cut another one to ge between the first 2 to for an H shape and screw them together.
Lift with chain or ratchet straps and the cherry picker or come alongs to the rafters

Bob

I thought about that also but it seemed like I would want some more support to keep the 2x4s from twisting. I'm going to go out to the garage and see what I have for metal. I also have an old bed frame that might work for this depending. Put the two long rails in the middle back to back and the fold out parts will go out to the bed. If they are long enough that might work pretty good.
 

kaffine

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Last time I removed a pickup bed I just used a long chain and an engine hoist. I attached the chain to the tie down points on the bed and lifted it without a problem. It was on a small 1/4 ton truck with a 6ft bed though. The engine hoist came in from the side.

Might have a problem on a larger 4x4 truck getting the height needed. Might be able to do it coming in from the back with the tailgate down. It would probably be a good idea to brace the tailgate opening some.
 

kossuth

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Note. You might have issues clearing the frame/bumper on some trucks.
 

see pictures

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I use 2 ratchet straps crossed from tie downs in the bed to lift mine. Had to use a gallon of washer fluid to balance it.
 

4BT

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Use the cargo anchoring points in the bed. Dont forget some padding to prevent damage.
 

LXCam

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I use ratchet straps off the tie downs and set them to center and balance to bed. No muss, no fuss and no help.
 

Charles (in GA)

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I have a short bed '92 Ranger. I have two ea 2x6's cut to the dimensions the owners manual shows to fit in the bed for transporting 4x8 sheets. They just happen to fit nicely under the bed rail, and in the middle (fore and aft wise) on each side, there is a protrusion that, if I place one 2x6 in front of it, and one behind it, both standing vertical, then wrap a trailer safety chain around them and hook it so it won't come loose, I can use the hoist to pick up the bed (after removing the tailgate) and don't even need to remove the camper top.

Bed balances nearly perfectly fore and aft, and if you hit the center (L&R) it is a breeze to get off. The Ranger has six big bolts, three screws at the gas filler neck and the cap has to be off (stuff a rag in to keep dirt out), and unplug the light connector in the back, and off it comes.

Charles
 
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signcrafter

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I played around a little tonight with this. First I clamped the two bed frame sections together and used the two shorter pieces to try and raise the bed. I didn't have a lot of faith in this and I was right. Once I put any weight on them they started to bow. Plan B was some ratchet straps to the tie downs, one of the tie downs started to bend. So plan C was to start to fab something up. I ground the rivets off the bed frame so the legs and fold out pieces could come off. Then cut the frame, which is just some angle iron, to size. Then found some square tubing to be the middle piece to hold the two frame rails and welded it up. I tried everything out and it did lift the bed but I wasn't happy with a slight bend in the frame rails. So tomorrow I'm going to make them a box by welding the four smaller parts of the bed rails to the longer parts. Then it should be plenty strong.

I was going to go all out and make the sides adjustable and the hook up to the engine hoist adjustable to get perfect balance but I decided to just make something that will work for now. I will use this as my prototype and when I get some more time I sill fab up a nicer one that will be adjustable. I'll get some pics tomorrow.
 

RV77

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You might not believe me but I made one that looks very similiar to the second link you posted.I had to change a fuel pump on a 2500 dodge.I used square sign post that is 2" and 1-3/4".It works extremely well and thought about filing for a patent until I did a search and found different styles.

I can posts pics tomorrow if anyone would care to see it.And we use it with a large engine hoist ( old school ) built like a tank.
 
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signcrafter

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You might not believe me but I made one that looks very similiar to the second link you posted.I had to change a fuel pump on a 2500 dodge.I used square sign post that is 2" and 1-3/4".It works extremely well and thought about filing for a patent until I did a search and found different styles.

I can posts pics tomorrow if anyone would care to see it.And we use it with a large engine hoist ( old school ) built like a tank.

I'd love to see some pictures.
 
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signcrafter

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Here's the finished product. Worked great, took the bed off by myself no problems.

IMG_20130821_114530_167.jpg

IMG_20130821_114512_036.jpg

It's no pretty but it worked. I have to many projects going on to make pretty right now. In the future I will go get the metal to make a nicer one. I want to make the hook pick point adjustable so I can move it forward or backwards to get the bed balanced. Also want to make the arms adjustable. Mine you have to lower it down and then angle it in one side first and then the other side. Probably won't work on other truck beds unless it's the exact same size. Also want to make some kind of rubber perches that the bed sits on. My bed is all dented so I don't really care about scratches but would want to be more careful on a nicer truck.
 

Greatbear

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I did this a while ago to replace a fuel pump and modify wiring on an S10. Crisscrossed two heavy ratchet straps across the tie downs, hooked the engine crane in the middle and lift. Used this technique on several other trucks, using the stake pockets on older ones without provided tiedowns.

8680035602_68bd20cde6_z.jpg


This sure beats wrestling filled gas tanks even when using a lift. In this case, I had to change the wiring for the pump, it was much easier from above as well.
 

malibu101

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8680035602_68bd20cde6_z.jpg


This sure beats wrestling filled gas tanks even when using a lift. In this case, I had to change the wiring for the pump, it was much easier from above as well.

Great idea!
I have replaced a couple of fuel pumps in S10's and Blazers of that era.
4 bolts on each side hold the bed down. I disconnected the fuel filler, removed the front 3 (on each side) bolts and just loosened the rearmost bolts. Lift the front of the bed and prop it up. Just like a dump truck.

As easy as S10's are, Blazers are NOT fun or easy.
 

57JoeFoMoPar

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I did something similar years ago on a long bed '67 C10. My engine hoist wasn't big enough to get to the middle, so I used 2 floor jacks to lift up the front of the bed, and used the hoist to lift the whole rear. Then I just pushed the truck out.
 
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signcrafter

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Sorry for the delay I kept forgetting to take a pic...

That one's a lot prettier then mine! Do they sell that square tubing with holes in it somewhere in two different sizes like you have? I would like to redo mine and make it adjustable like yours but I have so many projects going on that as long as this one is working for now I most likely won't get around to it.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Quite honestly, the H frame in the pic is overkill. The bed is plenty strong enough, all it needs is a crossmember that fits under the bed rails and won't slip fore and aft if the bed tilts. one or two 2x6's is more than adequate, a couple of pieces of unistrut would work OK. No sense having something fancy sitting around taking up space, that you won't use again for umpteen years.

Charles
 

RV77

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Quite honestly, the H frame in the pic is overkill. The bed is plenty strong enough, all it needs is a crossmember that fits under the bed rails and won't slip fore and aft if the bed tilts. one or two 2x6's is more than adequate, a couple of pieces of unistrut would work OK. No sense having something fancy sitting around taking up space, that you won't use again for umpteen years.

Charles

Maybe overkill to you but I had access to more steel than lumber and it was free
 

RV77

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That one's a lot prettier then mine! Do they sell that square tubing with holes in it somewhere in two different sizes like you have? I would like to redo mine and make it adjustable like yours but I have so many projects going on that as long as this one is working for now I most likely won't get around to it.

Our sign shop has it for installing...well...Road signs.Dont know were they get it but Im thinking this is 1-3/4 I.D. and 1-1/2 O.D. with the latter sliding inside the bigger ( obviously )
 

Jefrey

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Well if you hit the middle, L and R it is a breeze to get off. The Ranger has four big screws three nails at the gas product throat, and the cap has to be off things a rag in to keep dust out and remove the mild plug in the returning and, off it comes.
 

kctyphoon

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I'm going to (at some point in my life) remove the bed of my old f350. I'm just going to build a wooden frame around the truck and just ratchet straps of some hoists from work at each corner to pick the bed up and keep in suspended.
 

RAYJAY

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3 pieces of 2x4 and some chain or ratchet straps would get the same thing done..
Cut 2 2x4s to lenth to fit under the bed rail.
Cut another one to ge between the first 2 to for an H shape and screw them together.
Lift with chain or ratchet straps and the cherry picker or come alongs to the rafters

Bob

x2 will work like a dream
 

finn

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You guys overcomplicate things.

Two ratchet straps hooked in the stake pockets and run diagonally worked fine on my Ranger and short bed Chevy.

Run the straps through the engine Hoist hook and start lifting.

Cost=0.
Fabrication time =0
 

TNToy

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There's a simpler way to do this...

Works great on Chevy and Dodge trucks (haven't done a Ford but it should ikely work fine) that need a pump replaced. Pull all of the bed bolts but leave the rearmost pair threaded in about 1/2" so they act as a hinge and locating pin.

Back the truck under the lift arms so the front stake pockets are beneath the feet, use straps to attach the feet to the front tie down points or stake pockets.

Double check to make sure the ground wires and fuel filler are unbolted...

And then lift your new dump bed about 30-40 degrees until you have space to swap the pump. And yes, slipping a jackstand in there is probably a good idea.
 

tac

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3 pieces of 2x4 and some chain or ratchet straps would get the same thing done..
Cut 2 2x4s to lenth to fit under the bed rail.
Cut another one to ge between the first 2 to for an H shape and screw them together.
Lift with chain or ratchet straps and the cherry picker or come alongs to the rafters

Bob

Yep :thumbup:
 

Calgaryyz250

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I'm going to (at some point in my life) remove the bed of my old f350. I'm just going to build a wooden frame around the truck and just ratchet straps of some hoists from work at each corner to pick the bed up and keep in suspended.


I've used ratchet straps and it's a pain to adjust for level.

Would use chain come alongs next time so you can raise/lower the corners.
 

FunkyfullWidth

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There's a simpler way to do this...



Back the truck under the lift arms so the front stake pockets are beneath the feet, use straps to attach the feet to the front tie down points or stake pockets.



If you have lift arms, why not pull the bed all the way instead of messing around with a bed precariously located above your head.
 

anndel

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I hear you that it's a great price but right now I have more time then money and should have everything to make one. I just rebuilt the motor and putting that in and have a bunch of body work to do so don't really want to spend 250 bucks for something I will only use once every few years.

Or you could use it once then sell it to recoup some costs.
 

larry4406

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Waking up an old thread.

I can see that at some point I will have to do this for my Ford 2003 F350 8' bed. Bed frame rails/cross members are rusting badly.

For those of you that have used the straps at 4 corner approach, how have you balanced the bed for/aft and left/right and stop it from possibly spinning when you lift? When the time comes I will be a one man band.

I will also have to invert the bed on the ground so that the bed rails/cross member can be replaced. How does one flip it over (again by themselves)?

No access to a lift other than my engine hoist.
 

619DioFan

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My 95 ram has a 8 foot bed . have pulled it multiple times without help using an engine hoist. what I did was-

Made a longer boom piece to reach the center of the bed. ( just the part that slides out not the main boom )

Attached my engine leveler to said boom.

Used 4 ratchet straps and attached them from each corner ( my bed has tie downs in the floor ) to the leveler.

Lifted away use the leveler to well level the bed as you hoist.

Mine went on saw horses . you could set yours on the ground then re-attach to one side and raise it up .
 

larry4406

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My 95 ram has a 8 foot bed . have pulled it multiple times without help using an engine hoist. what I did was-

Made a longer boom piece to reach the center of the bed. ( just the part that slides out not the main boom )

Attached my engine leveler to said boom.

Used 4 ratchet straps and attached them from each corner ( my bed has tie downs in the floor ) to the leveler.

Lifted away use the leveler to well level the bed as you hoist.

Mine went on saw horses . you could set yours on the ground then re-attach to one side and raise it up .

This seems a very reasonable approach. I also have a leveler to use.

What does an 8’ bed weigh less tail gate - ~400lbs?
 
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