I have a 30x40 metal pole garage, the metal roof has the drip stop on the underside and also have full ridge vent and vented soffits on all sides. Question is do I still need to put vapor barrier up before installing metal ceiling?
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Vapor barrier
- Thread starter pameade
- Start date
Jakemedic
Well-known member
In my opinion, spend the time and dollars and use a vapor barrier. The tighter you can make your inside structure, the better the heat will retain in the winter. In the summer, it will keep the cool (if you cool it) in. Again, your mileage may vary. But I did that in my shop, although I didn't have drip stop installed. Let us know what you decide.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I would to. There is going to be air leakage at the seams, especially at the corners. Put up a vapor barrier and overlap the walls vapor barrier by 6" or so.
Here in Ohio, just North of you we get all kinds of weather including humid summers and rain and snow in winter. My point is we've learned a long time ago that a Vapor Barrier is good in the Right Application. Under a Concrete Slab, (especially), but not below grade on a Block Basement Wall trapping Moisture and causing Mold and Rot, Musty Odors, etc..........Hence A Vapor Barrier is Good in this Application like Your Roof, But a BREATHABLE Vapor Barrier is what I'd be Looking at verses Plastic or Visqueen. Tyvek Paper is a good Product for Walls above Grade on wall board Sheeting as it resists water and moisture with it's wax coating on it. Yes Plastic is a Vapor Barrier but it can also trap moisture which causes Mold, Odor, etc.............
It's good to keep Moisture out but be careful not to trap it in! Without going into several stories I know for a fact that you have to be carefull with not trapping moisture in! IMHO!
LtF
It's good to keep Moisture out but be careful not to trap it in! Without going into several stories I know for a fact that you have to be carefull with not trapping moisture in! IMHO!
LtF
Last edited:
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Its a ceiling against a traditional attic with proper ventilation. Its not going to trap moisture as both sides have ventilation. Mind boggling that you would recommend tyvek in this application. It belongs on the outside of walls.Here in Ohio, just North of you we get all kinds of weather including humid summers and rain and snow in winter. My point is we've learned a long time ago that a Vapor Barrier is good in the Right Application. Under a Concrete Slab, (especially), but not below grade on a Block Basement Wall trapping Moisture and causing Mold and Rot, Musty Odors, etc..........Hence A Vapor Barrier is Good in this Application like Your Roof, But a BREATHABLE Vapor Barrier is what I'd be Looking at verses Plastic or Visqueen. Tyvek Paper is a good Product for Walls above Grade on wall board Sheeting as it resists water and moisture with it's wax coating on it. Yes Plastic is a Vapor Barrier but it can also trap moisture which causes Mold, Odor, etc.............
It's good to keep Moisture out but be careful not to trap it in! Without going into several stories I know for a fact that you have to be carefull with not trapping moisture in! IMHO!
LtF
I probably didn't explain myself properly as I didn't suggest Tyvek in this application, I only referenced it on exterior walls above grade.Its a ceiling against a traditional attic with proper ventilation. Its not going to trap moisture as both sides have ventilation. Mind boggling that you would recommend tyvek in this application. It belongs on the outside of walls.
My Bad !
LtF
mpraddict
Well-known member
Tyvek is a moisture barrier but it isn't a vapor barrier/retarder. There are "smart" vapor retarders out there but they're fairly expensive. https://www.certainteed.com/building-insulation/products/membrain/
I just don’t want the metal on ceiling to sweat and dripI have a 30x40 metal pole garage, the metal roof has the drip stop on the underside and also have full ridge vent and vented soffits on all sides. Question is do I still need to put vapor barrier up before installing metal ceiling?
billconner
Well-known member
Enough insulation above the ceiling should keep it warm enough that it won't condense. Also controlling interior humidity.
rebelranger
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2012
- Messages
- 188
After much consideration I skipped vapor barrier above the metal ceiling. I did blow cellulose on top of the liner panel ceiling though. Thus far 0 condensation during -5 or 95 degree midwest weather [we get literally everyweather condition possible] . The walls are 1.5 closed cell then r11 fiberglass, there is r7.5 rigid foam under concrete, and estimated r19 cellulose in ceiling [ I plan to put additional r19 in jan] I wanted any settling to occur before in added the last r19.