tom65special
Member
Does anybody else have any idea how slippery this type of flooring is when wet. I live outside Chicago and deal with snow and slush melting off the cars. Thanks.
VCT (Vinyl Composition Tile)
- Thread starter CaptainRay
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pattenp
Well-known member
All I can say is that I have busted my **** more than once on a wet VCT floor.
Chuck W.
Well-known member
I have never had an issue with a wet slippery floor. It is a garage. It gets a little wet when you pull the car in on a rainy day and that is about it. This question comes up a lot and I don't see it as an issue.
55chevy
Well-known member
Hey Chuck, I just used some cheap rubber mats. I bought some stuff that comes in a roll for non skid flooring and cut pieces for the tires to sit on.
foss
Well-known member
I have had the floor down a couple of winters and nobody has ever fallen from the floor being wet. Don't find it really slippery.
First thing I bought when I layed the floor was a proper commercial mop, bucket, and ringer.
Never had a tile lift or come loose.
Have found the floor excellent. I have been familiar with VCT tiles for many years as our stores have used it for years.
Very durable and easy to change a tile if you ever have too.
First thing I bought when I layed the floor was a proper commercial mop, bucket, and ringer.
Never had a tile lift or come loose.
Have found the floor excellent. I have been familiar with VCT tiles for many years as our stores have used it for years.
Very durable and easy to change a tile if you ever have too.
Randy Rebel
New member
Hi David, I'm a New member and wondering if you were still satisfied with your checkerboard VCT garage floor. It looks GREAT and I really like that your tile is solid white, solid black, and solid red, with no fleck. Would you recommend that or go to the VCT's with the fleck pattern to avoid seeing every speck of dust and dirt? I plan on doing an install in the next few weeks and am making final decisions on 1' x 1' pattern versus 4' x 4' pattern as well as the fleck versus solid color VCT. Also any best recommended adhesive, concrete floor prep, floor roller after install, etc. Any advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated! I'm looking forward to hearing what members suggest....Thanks Randy Revel in Oconomowoc, WI
Chuck W.
Well-known member
Hey Randy... sorry no one has gotten back to you sooner. After nearly 9 years I am very happy with my VCT garage floor. I went with the flecked black and white and would recommend it. They hide small imperfections. I believe that the solid ones would show dirt and anything else that drops on the floor. I went with the 1x1 pattern. It is all a personal taste thing. You can't go wrong either way. As far as installing and materials search this forum and there is a ton of information here. Good luck and keep us posted.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
It depends on how you want to maintain the VCT - waxed & polished or regular finish with normal use. Here are some recent photos after I finished waxing and running my high-speed buffer on the floor.
Reopening this old thread in the hope that someone knows how the narrow black stripe between the full red border tiles was done? Would ripping them on an ordinary table saw with a wood blade work without ruining the blade? Obviously ALL the narrow ones would have to be done at once so they'd all be the exact same width.
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mtwaterguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2007
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Looks like there's some smaller red tiles along the edge in the second pic too. That installer had to have had quite a bit of patience. I would think your table saw reference is probably correct.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
What are you guys that did VCT doing about the perimeter footing if it's taller than the 4" coved "vinyl baseboard"? If I were doing epoxy I'd grind it as smooth as possible, fill any voids with Bondo and paint it to match.
But I've been wondering about my soon-to-be garage's perimeter footing that I tall? I'm thinking the same grind/fill, then paint with something. Since I plan to do the large size black/white checks maybe Rustoleum gloss black or red if I use red in the pattern somehow? Ideas?
But I've been wondering about my soon-to-be garage's perimeter footing that I tall? I'm thinking the same grind/fill, then paint with something. Since I plan to do the large size black/white checks maybe Rustoleum gloss black or red if I use red in the pattern somehow? Ideas?
JR 42
Well-known member
Armstrong makes thin feature strips in solid color VCT:
https://www.armstrongflooring.com/c...position-tile/excelon-feature-tile-strip.html
I don't know offhand what they cost, but given that solid color VCT is shockingly expensive I'd expect these to be also.
Edge cuts aren't a big deal, they're usually covered by base or caulked to the wall. Cutting tile in the middle of the field requires damn near perfection to look good.
You can get cove base up to 6" tall, and if you've got money to burn and need taller you can get 7" riser cove base.
https://www.armstrongflooring.com/c...position-tile/excelon-feature-tile-strip.html
I don't know offhand what they cost, but given that solid color VCT is shockingly expensive I'd expect these to be also.
Edge cuts aren't a big deal, they're usually covered by base or caulked to the wall. Cutting tile in the middle of the field requires damn near perfection to look good.
You can get cove base up to 6" tall, and if you've got money to burn and need taller you can get 7" riser cove base.
socalnative
New member
Good info. in this thread, old and new. Thanks!
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
^^^ Yeah, that just looks so kickass good.
If I do this - I'm certainly leaning toward it - it'll be the larger format 4tiles per square like this. 12"x12" pattern is just too busy for my taste. I only question doing this on hands and knees at 65 years old. I'm certain I CAN do it, just wondering how long my back will hurt afterward!
What wax are you using on yours Jason, how long has it been on and how is it holding up? I THINK I read you didn't wax it at all for a very long time(?)
If I do this - I'm certainly leaning toward it - it'll be the larger format 4tiles per square like this. 12"x12" pattern is just too busy for my taste. I only question doing this on hands and knees at 65 years old. I'm certain I CAN do it, just wondering how long my back will hurt afterward!
What wax are you using on yours Jason, how long has it been on and how is it holding up? I THINK I read you didn't wax it at all for a very long time(?)
GRivera
Well-known member
VCT tiles look great - I have Ghostshield 8505 sealer on my 1200 sf power trowed floor and it stained with trans fluid which is why I'm shopping floors. Will VCT adhesive "stick" to a sealed floor?
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
I'm no expert by any means but I'm guessing just like nothing else, proper prep is everything.
Thanks, best thing I ever did. I agree on doing the 24x24 bigger size. Just get some knee pads and you'll be fine and maybe add a friend to help. Yep, I had it for 13 years with no wax and just waxed it about 6 months ago for the first time.
Yep, no issue. Just get the dust off. That's what's great about VCT. There is virtually no prep needed.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11812
Jayman17
Well-known member
Dan I can just imagine that cool truck of yours parked on a highly polished version of this tile and it would be awesome! 
I also prefer the 2'x2' checkerboard pattern.
If you do it, please post some photos when done.
Jay
I also prefer the 2'x2' checkerboard pattern.
If you do it, please post some photos when done.
Jay
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Dan I can just imagine that cool truck of yours parked on a highly polished version of this tile and it would be awesome!
I also prefer the 2'x2' checkerboard pattern.
If you do it, please post some photos when done.
Jay
Oh thanks Jay for the kind words. In the fantasy of my mind's eye my truck would be on it. I'm considering the red stripe around the perimeter like in the photos of the GT40 above. That would really set it off!
Jason, Oddly my knees never hurt from hours on them in the garden - granted grass or dirt is a LOT easier. It's my back. After an extended time I get sway back. I'm sure it couldn't have anything to do with my belly hanging down, right?!
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
I THINK the answer is 1/8" by about 1-1/2" or 2" aluminum stock from someplace like Home Depot. It doesn't come in a length long enough for the garage door opening but I don't think that's a big deal. But two pieces end-to-end then screw them down with countersunk fasteners OR stick them down with LiquidNails HD Construction Adhesive, then it's NEVER coming off!
Correct, I don't think it's a big deal, but I just wanted a nice transition that was level with the tile, so that's what I used from Home Depot and Liquid nailed them down.
Read my full write-up here. I did this floor in 2007!
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11812
Read my full write-up here. I did this floor in 2007!
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11812
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Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Jason, Yours looks SO damn good but I didn't know you owned a Gallardo! I'm not so good on exotics but that's what I THINK this beauty is, right?
I'm still on the fence about VCT, epoxy or Race Deck. Only hedging on VCT because (minor reason) crawling around doing the install and (bigger reason) I know how I am and I'll be OCD about it and want it waxed and polished a lot. I LOVE that look and wouldn't be happy with it dull, so...
RD is pricey and I'd hate the noise if it happens; though I've seen the advice to put geo fabric under it. Epoxy I'd have professionally done (because I don't trust myself not to screw it up!) but because that's also pricey I'd be worried if the "pro's" did a truly good job and if not then the big expense is for naught if it peels after a few years. Decisions, decisions, decisions...
I'm still on the fence about VCT, epoxy or Race Deck. Only hedging on VCT because (minor reason) crawling around doing the install and (bigger reason) I know how I am and I'll be OCD about it and want it waxed and polished a lot. I LOVE that look and wouldn't be happy with it dull, so...
RD is pricey and I'd hate the noise if it happens; though I've seen the advice to put geo fabric under it. Epoxy I'd have professionally done (because I don't trust myself not to screw it up!) but because that's also pricey I'd be worried if the "pro's" did a truly good job and if not then the big expense is for naught if it peels after a few years. Decisions, decisions, decisions...
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Correct on the car 
Classic timepiece.
I don't think there's any question here if you're worried about clanking or epoxy peeling. I've had this floor now for 13 years and it's super solid and can take a beating. The shine with tiles like this make it museum-like. Remember, this is the same floor in every target/walmart that has pallet jacks and forklifts running over it 24/7. You just need someone to help you with the install if you're worried about your back. Snap a good chalk line and the rest is smooth sailing.
Classic timepiece.I don't think there's any question here if you're worried about clanking or epoxy peeling. I've had this floor now for 13 years and it's super solid and can take a beating. The shine with tiles like this make it museum-like. Remember, this is the same floor in every target/walmart that has pallet jacks and forklifts running over it 24/7. You just need someone to help you with the install if you're worried about your back. Snap a good chalk line and the rest is smooth sailing.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Though I am really impressed with everyone's RD installs, speaking just for me they're a little over-the-top fabulous. not in a bad way, just not "me." Whereas the VCT and epoxy are really consistent with my taste.
My back aches all the time but it's my own fault and will be worth it for a floor as nice as yours. I DO have a question about "snapping" chalk line though. I know if you get off even 1/32" then the tiles get honked up and go to 1/16" then 1/8" etc. so wouldn't something like a sharp pencil line be more appropriate than a chalk line?
My back aches all the time but it's my own fault and will be worth it for a floor as nice as yours. I DO have a question about "snapping" chalk line though. I know if you get off even 1/32" then the tiles get honked up and go to 1/16" then 1/8" etc. so wouldn't something like a sharp pencil line be more appropriate than a chalk line?
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Totally comfortable snapping a chalk line it’s just that they’re a relatively fuzzy line. Once you place the first tile all the rest would be lining up with the previous tile, right? Chalk line be damned after the first one I think
Correct.
just set your tile lightly on the chalk line , line up several in a row . you will see how parallel you are running. adjust as necessary before you put any pressure on the tile .
We use steel studded golf shoes to walk out onto the glue to snap lines etc. we have the plan in order before we glue , then we glue the entire floor and when it's dry, go out & snap the line . sometimes we start to lay tile with the shoes on, depending on the layout .
brownsmustang
Well-known member
Ok, this is exactly what I am looking for. I thought I wanted the snap in tile, but needing 1200+ sqft runs into the money. This seems like an excellent option. For those concerned about slippery when wet, I have googled a matt finish sealer that might help. I am going to give it a try when I seal mine up.
SJMaye
Well-known member
Correct on the car
I don't think there's any question here if you're worried about clanking or epoxy peeling. I've had this floor now for 13 years and it's super solid and can take a beating. The shine with tiles like this make it museum-like. Remember, this is the same floor in every target/walmart that has pallet jacks and forklifts running over it 24/7. You just need someone to help you with the install if you're worried about your back. Snap a good chalk line and the rest is smooth sailing.
I want to go with VCT in my new garage. I would love it if the self adhesive tiles would work so I would not have to work with the glue. I am afraid the tiles would not stay down.
Any opinions?
I don’t think I would use those, I would use what’s tried and proven. Use the Armstrong glue (Home Depot), it’s not a big deal to do it. Now I’m about 14 years and no issues with this floor and it looks as good as the day I put it down.
SJMaye
Well-known member
Got it! Just needed a bit of reassurance.