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Vintage Craftsman Drill Press

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Slowjoe

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Thank you.
Getting there! Just have to mount the motor and buy a pulley belt, and it's done. Gotta wait a week until after vacation to finish.
 

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Nick Rivers

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While you have the motor off, you can take a look at the "sardine can" capacitor for a date stamp. Likely early 1950s to 1956 or 57.
 
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Slowjoe

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Hey again. I'm concerned about quite a bit of rotational play (? I'm not sure that is the right description?). I can turn the chuck a bit before the spindle seems to engage. I will take a short video where you can hear where it engages. You can see that I can turn the spindle slightly before the pulley moves.

Any ideas?
 

FrankLee

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Hey again. I'm concerned about quite a bit of rotational play (? I'm not sure that is the right description?). I can turn the chuck a bit before the spindle seems to engage. I will take a short video where you can hear where it engages. You can see that I can turn the spindle slightly before the pulley moves.

Any ideas?
We talked about the worn splines in the pulley you got from me versus the worn bearing shaft in your original pulley. I suggested the option of using a low-strength thread locker for the inner race of the lower bearing using the original pulley.
 
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Slowjoe

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We talked about the worn splines in the pulley you got from me versus the worn bearing shaft in your original pulley. I suggested the option of using a low-strength thread locker for the inner race of the lower bearing using the original pulley.
Ahhhh...OK. It makes sense now. Thank you, Jim.
 
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Slowjoe

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Hi Jim. Back from vacation, and I did as you said about using my old pulley. It worked like a charm! I do (after the fact, obviously) remember that we discussed that when I met with you. I'll use the excuse that you are a wealth of information, and I couldn't remember it all.
New question: I know that the Feed Return Adjustment Spring requires tensioning by turning the Knob CCW. By hand, I can turn it about 1-1/2 to 2 revolutions, which is not enough to return the quill at all. I also remember you saying do not over-tension, just enough to get the quill to gently return without slamming. At this point, I will need some leverage (Channel Locks, etc.) to get enough tension. Does this sound right to you?

Next, do you have a Head Stock Lock Handle with the ball end that is in decent shape? I like the 150-type handle ok, but to my eye it looks out-of-place on my DP with all of the other handles being ball-end.

I will be posting pics of the completed DP once these few bugs are worked out. BTW, your light kit is a very nice addition.
Joe
 
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Slowjoe

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NVM about the tensioning. I was able to get it to just shy of 3 turns by hand, after letting it sit at 2 turns tension for several minutes, and that was perfect for the return tension.
 

FrankLee

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NVM about the tensioning. I was able to get it to just shy of 3 turns by hand, after letting it sit at 2 turns tension for several minutes, and that was perfect for the return tension.
A cleaned and lubricated quill, quill lock and pinion shaft will improve quill return.


Next, do you have a Head Stock Lock Handle with the ball end that is in decent shape? I like the 150-type handle ok, but to my eye it looks out-of-place on my DP with all of the other handles being ball-end.
Sorry Joe, I don't have one.

If you ever come across one, the lock handle from a column collar can be swapped with the quill lock handle.
quill lock handle.JPG

This Atlas quill lock handle should fit your drill press:

I will be posting pics of the completed DP once these few bugs are worked out.
Looking forward to photos!

BTW, your light kit is a very nice addition.
Thanks! I agree.
 
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Slowjoe

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A cleaned and lubricated quill, quill lock and pinion shaft will improve quill return.



Sorry Joe, I don't have one.

If you ever come across one, the lock handle from a column collar can be swapped with the quill lock handle.
quill lock handle.JPG

This Atlas quill lock handle should fit your drill press:


Looking forward to photos!


Thanks! I agree.
Thanks, but its not the quill lock handle I need, but rather the Head Lock Handle. I do agree that the Atlas type is better than the set screw type for the quill lock.
 

Nick Rivers

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Thanks, but its not the quill lock handle I need, but rather the Head Lock Handle. I do agree that the Atlas type is better than the set screw type for the quill lock.

The ball end lock handles are on eBay all the time.

1716748570250.png
 
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11b30b4

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GA
Slowjoe, that is a nice drill press and those accessories are too cool for school. I would not sell any of them but I am a collector. I have been looking locally for a rotary table for some time. The Vari-Slo is a very cool accessory. Anyway, it looks like you are getting lots of input from the guys here on the journal. If you have not already done so, scrub through some of my videos, some may be helpful. www.youtube.com/@JeffsShop
 
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Slowjoe

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Dec 3, 2015
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Location
Port Clinton, Ohio
Here is the restored 103.23140 drill press. Excellent running DP. And that table lift is SOOOO SMOOOOOTH! What a great accessory. I haven't waxed the paint yet, because I'm letting the paint cure awhile before waxing.

Many thanks to FrankLee, as well as a shout-out to 11b30b4. You guys were invaluable in this restoration.

The 103-23141 DP with the Vari-Slo is my next machine restoration, but it will have to wait awhile.
 

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