Vintage Craftsman motor pulley (from hell)

[pendragon1998]

Aluminum or pot metal (non-magnetic) pulley on a 1/2 in shaft with a flat. 1/2 HP motor is from 1953. Removed set screw. I don't think there is a key. I have 1/8" clearance (barely) between the pulley and the motor frame. Sprayed PB blaster in set screw hole and up shaft for a few days.

Built a quick and dirty pulley puller out of 1/4 steel bar from an old HF clamp and a 1/8 in work hardened steel scrap blade. Bent the bar. Built a better pulley puller out of 1/8 hot rolled steel channel. Bent the channel and the pulley won't move. What now...fire?

 

[Fonz]

I have had this same problem. Just keep lubricating it and possibly try holding the shaft coming out the other end of the motor and twisting the pulley on the shaft in an attempt to break it free.

For some reason after 60 years the pulleys seem to become one with the motor. Lol.

 

[Musicinabottle]

Utilize that puller again and as you put the squeezing hurts to it, use a bar and hammer to hit the end of the shaft. It will make a world of difference!

 

[454ragtop]

Soak well with the PB, then tap it further onto the shaft just to get it moving, then pull it off. Oh yeah, don't forget to check for another set screw under the first one you removed, not that uncommon.

 

[pendragon1998]

Utilize that puller again and as you put the squeezing hurts to it, use a bar and hammer to hit the end of the shaft. It will make a world of difference!

I actually tried that, but it wasn't budging. I wonder if someone glued it on?

Ar this point, I am not sure if I want to replace it or not. I am trying to salvage it for now.

 

[pendragon1998]

Soak well with the PB, then tap it further onto the shaft just to get it moving, then pull it off. Oh yeah, don't forget to check for another set screw under the first one you removed, not that uncommon.

Oh, that would be wicked. I sort of think there isn't a second screw, since oil sprayed in the hole comes out the end, but I will double check tomorrow.

 

[tool_scrounge]

While that motor shaft should have a flat on it, sometimes the previous owners do not know that the set screw should be over the flat. So they crank down the set screw in any random position and raise a burr which makes it almost impossible to remove the pulley without damage.

 

[schor]

Push it on to get at the end of the shaft, then hit the shaft with a file to de-burr it then pull it off.

Might still take a puller but really you have an issue with burrs is my guess.

 

[Roberts210]

That is a rare pulley. You are smart to want to save it. Good luck. Try everything advised here.

 

[James-W]

In the past I have used a technique with quite a bit of success. I make a jig of sorts so that I can hang the motor from the pulley and it is really solid. Then I take a metal rod that is slightly smaller than the motor shaft, I put the rod on the end of the motor shaft and rap it hard with a big hammer. The weight of the motor hanging down combined with the sharp hammer rap on the motor shaft may be just enough to get it loose. At least it has worked of me several times in the past, not necessarily with electric motors but on other things with pulleys that won't come off.

 

[Cypherian]

Heat Gun to the pulley , works well and is controllable enough then crank the puller assembly, also works to pull / place blind motor housing bearings.


Cypher

 

[Rileysan]

Heat Gun to the pulley , works well and is controllable enough then crank the puller assembly, also works to pull / place blind motor housing bearings.


Cypher

I would apply heat as well. If not a heat gun, then a small propane torch to the pulley - just do not heat until glowing!

Brian

 

[thehorse13]

A hand propane torch is the way to go here. I went through this same pain not long ago and the only thing that worked for me was heat, beer and patience.

 

[lilredex]

I see a double ended shaft there sticking out of the other end. Make up a bar to lock that other end down, then make a strap wrench out of a belt and twist the pulley to break it free.

And, as been mentioned before, make sure there is a flat on the shaft for the set screws.........some people mistakenly think the flat is there so the set screw stays "more" secure.

 

[Davefr]

It's been mentioned, but Kroil, heat, use a real puller and every turn of the puller screw should get a tap from a mallet. That process has never failed me.

I also like Franks idea of installing a pulley on the opposite end and lock it while trying to rotate the stuck pulley.

You could also try putting the motor in a freezer overnight and then heat the pulley the next day. That additional expansion/contraction gap from temp. differential might help break it free.

Please post an update once it's solved.

 

[Roberts210]

These are allllll good suggestions. Keep trying, but don't damage it. You'll get it off.

 

[crerus75]

There is a rust penetrant by Sealed Unit Parts Co (Supco) called MO-44 Rust Buster. It was designed specifically to remove rusted fan hubs and pulleys from motor shafts on HVAC equipment. I bought a bottle on Amazon for about $7. I haven't used it yet, but one gentleman that I know absolutely swears by it for fan hubs. If nothing else works and you're desperate, perhaps it will be worth buying a bottle and trying it.

 

[exmaxima1]

I see a double ended shaft there sticking out of the other end. Make up a bar to lock that other end down, then make a strap wrench out of a belt and twist the pulley to break it free.

THIS.

Once the pulley can turn even slightly, the penetrant oil should be able to do its job.

 

[Markfothebeast]

I removed a pulley from a 1932 Briggs and Stratton engine I found in the barn which was not fun, at all.

If the electric motor can handle a quick zap of high heat, touch the pulley with a welder. Be sure the current does not go through the motor but rather the pulley. Perhaps putting it in the freezer overnight will help before doing this.

As for rust penetrating chemicals, the best I've EVER used, also yielding the quickest results, is a mix of transmission fluid (or brake fluid) with mineral spirits or paint thinner. Some use 50/50 ATF and Acetone, which I have not tried.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[tym]

I would advise fridge and heat gun as others have said, checking if it's loose right after it comes out of the fridge. I've used that technique to get a stuck piece of glass out of a metal bezel without damaging either.

 

[taumac]

I just had the same issue getting mine off. I needed up putting one end in vise and using a strap wrench to twist it off. I tried a puller but started to bend the aluminum.

 

[pendragon1998]

I see a double ended shaft there sticking out of the other end. Make up a bar to lock that other end down, then make a strap wrench out of a belt and twist the pulley to break it free.

And, as been mentioned before, make sure there is a flat on the shaft for the set screws.........some people mistakenly think the flat is there so the set screw stays "more" secure.

THIS.

Once the pulley can turn even slightly, the penetrant oil should be able to do its job.

Victory!
I finally got the durn thing off. What worked for me was putting a crescent wrench on the other end as a stop against the bench while I tried to turn the pulley forward and backward. I got it to turn a quarter inch around, then hit it with more penetrating oil, made it turn another quarter inch back, and finally got it wiggled away from the motor frame a good 3/4 in. At that point, my homemade pulley puller did the rest of the work easily and it came off. The shaft is dirty and has some metal filings on it. There seem to be burrs inside the pulley hole as well. Pics tomorrow - phone was dead.

Thanks, everyone!

 

[Rileysan]

Forgive me for hijacking this thread, but does anyone know where I can find a switch for this type of motor? I picked up a 3/4 HP motor (with 50s Craftsman table saw) at ReStore yesterday and the toggle switch was broken.

Brian

 

[pendragon1998]

You want a single pole single throw switch, I believe.

 

[schor]

Forgive me for hijacking this thread, but does anyone know where I can find a switch for this type of motor? I picked up a 3/4 HP motor (with 50s Craftsman table saw) at ReStore yesterday and the toggle switch was broken.

Brian

Not sure where to get it where you are but you want to make sure the switch is 110/220 volt and hp rated. They will usually be labeled as such. You cannot just use any toggle switch.

ie;
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/on-off-on-toggle-switch/A-p8161721e

 

[bmw57isetta]

I got mine from Ace Hardware. You might try Lowe's or Home Depot as well. Your local electrical supplier should have them as well. Not hard to find. Single pole, single throw as previously noted. On/Off faceplate will be included. Under $5.00 and a direct fit.

 

[lilredex]

I bought a few of these for my projects....didn't even have to leave the house.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IIDYPNO/?tag=atomicindus04-20

 

[tym]

^ Yup. A 15A rated switch at 110V should be just right for the OP's application.