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Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Thread

All

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The wings pop up on ebay for me randomly for a kings ransom. I could locally source two newer table saws for the price I would have to pay for two wings so I am still searching for a set for my 8"er.

I'm assuming you're trying to keep it all original? If you're not the newer 113/315? miter gauges work on the older 103/113 table saws and aside from the handles look pretty much the same at least to me. I have both the older style and newer styles.

The guard you're going to have get lucky and find another member here or on OWWM I believe. I never use them but I do have one for my 10".

Riving knife is going to have to be aftermarket. They never came with any and I still don't have one for any of my saws.

EDIT:
They might have come with a splitter attached to the guard. Not sure though I will have to check when I get home for my 10". I'm not sure if that's what you were looking for though.


Yes Michael, it is the Splitter that I meant, and is one of the parts I am looking for, along with the accompanying blade guard.

Yes, I would like to keep the saw vintage in every respect except for the blades and the FENCE. I am currently trying to learn about which aftermarket fences will fit the 8" model table.

I have the original fence, and find it to be unusable by design. Unless there is something I don't understand about it, it baffles me how any engineer or manufacture could even imagine such a design as being useful for the purpose.
 
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Honest Bob

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I picked up this gem this weekend. Even has the optional wheels on the back and what looks like the original 1hp motor. This thing is HEAVY compared to my 113!

I already have it torn apart for paint and will swap on a 2hp motor and an aftermarket fence from my 113.

4738692daebd863c49d184471414c14d.jpg5f3b49c2af34c7202fa2586f9628a43e.jpg
 

michaelwolson

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I picked up this gem this weekend. Even has the optional wheels on the back and what looks like the original 1hp motor. This thing is HEAVY compared to my 113!

I already have it torn apart for paint and will swap on a 2hp motor and an aftermarket fence from my 113.

She is a beauty! Please show pictures when it's completed.

I have been searching for one of those locally for quite some time now. One of my tool unicorns. I have found countless deals on unisaws but I really want a craftsman.
 

CKS1955

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I picked up this gem this weekend. Even has the optional wheels on the back and what looks like the original 1hp motor. This thing is HEAVY compared to my 113!

I already have it torn apart for paint and will swap on a 2hp motor and an aftermarket fence from my 113.

That is somewhat rare Craftsman table saw with the optional factory longer fence rail to accommodate the double table extension on each side. I have only seen a handful with this option.

Jay
 

Honest Bob

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She is a beauty! Please show pictures when it's completed.

I have been searching for one of those locally for quite some time now. One of my tool unicorns. I have found countless deals on unisaws but I really want a craftsman.

That is somewhat rare Craftsman table saw with the optional factory longer fence rail to accommodate the double table extension on each side. I have only seen a handful with this option.

Jay

I'll get some pictures as I go along. I didnt know these saws existed until I it showed up on craigslist. I had read that the factory longer fence rail was hard to find, I want to try it out and see how functional it is compared to the Mule Accusquare fence I have. I'd rather keep the original but in the end I need function. :headscrat
 

CKS1955

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I'll get some pictures as I go along. I didnt know these saws existed until I it showed up on craigslist. I had read that the factory longer fence rail was hard to find, I want to try it out and see how functional it is compared to the Mule Accusquare fence I have. I'd rather keep the original but in the end I need function. :headscrat

If you get it adjusted the fence works well in my opinion. Below is picture of my similar table saw.

Jay
 

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AdrianBoomer

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Yesterday I picked up a King Seeley 8", 3/4HP, 103.23832, mounted on the matching art deco contoured "washing machine legs" stand. Single knob, push-pull depth+tilt arbor control.

Has fence, but what a pathetic fence design! Not geared, not cast, no micrometer adjust, and doesn't grip the table at the motor end. The saw is all original, but I wouldn't hesitate to go forward or backward in generations to retrofit an entirely different fence set up, and welcome any advice or parts in this regard.

Has one cast iron extension wing, mounted on the right, with all rectangular holes (no diagonals). I could use another for the left side, and am actively looking locally, and would welcome any leads on obtaining another wing.

The motor alignment pin has evidence of being sawed off, so I am looking not only for a replacement (factory pin dimensions are 5/16" diameter by 4.5" long), I am also looking for HOW or IF this alignment pin engages with the motor base once it passes through the slot on the vertical tail of the sliding hinge the motor mounts to. I have spent hours looking at photos of similar saws on the OWWM site, and find that people have been quite creative in how they resolve the alignment pin engagement issue... some using long bolts that pass all the way through the motor mount hole, as well has the slot on the hinge. Some have used threaded rods with nuts on either side of the motor mount hinge. Some have retrofitted springs along the pin, which is something I did when I got the saw, before I realized that my pin had been sawed shorter than what it should be. Anyways... still seeking guidance on this guide pin.

Also need a miter gauge, a riving knife, and a blade guard assembly.

I think I have a motor mount for this saw. I just had foot surgery today but tomorrow when Im floating around my shop, I will look in the rathole and see if I can locate it. You just need the mount and shafts that set in the rear trunnion? PM me if want to discuss.
 

danandmelrod

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Great find, Honestbob! I picked one up a few months ago ( not as nice as yours) and haven’t found the time to even work on it. My fence needs fine tuning and I thought about upgrading the fence and rail. Please post any updates. Looking forward to your progress:thumbup: -Dan
 

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tapered-pin

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I just picked up one of these saws last week! 113.27520 and it starts smoother than my dads craftsman from the late 80s. the bearings are still very tight and all the adjustment wheels turn smoothly. the old man I bought it from took good care of it for the last 40 years.


I'll be using this saw as my full time workhorse, so *blasphemy alert*, I'll be building a modern base for it, replacing the cast extension with an extended tabletop (with router), and throwing a Shop Fox aluma-classic standard length fence on it. (all that will be in a separate thread)..

The new finish on these saws looks great, I'm unsure whether I want to rip it apart and restore the whole thing or just leave that for "next time".

I KNOW that any bearings I put in it couldn't have been made as well as the ones that are in it..
I'll look for a 1.5 HP motor at some point for it, but right now, the 0.75 HP motor will be plenty.

I like how the bottom of the blade assembly has the elongated port, I'll probably fashion a shroud for it and use that as my major dust collection point.

I also picked up the guy's 4" craftsman jointer from the same era, but it's not in as good of shape as the saw is.

OK, so I decided that I should just go ahead and replace the bearings and clean it up a bit.. everything got a wire brush and the table top got about 15 orbital sanding discs (with WD-40). I still have the stock motor on it but I'm thinking that I'd like to try my hand at a 1.5hp or 2hp motor (has anyone thrown something that big on these machines and made it work??)
 

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AdrianBoomer

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I have a Dayton 2HP 220 on my Emerson-built 1948 10" TS. It runs beautifully. I love my vintage motors but I am thinking of upgrading the horsepower on my 1937 10" Craftsman with something similar because it is a lovely saw that is a little weak with bigger stock and this saw deserves to be working harder. I don't think you can go wrong with increased horsepower on you floor model.
 

tapered-pin

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I have a Dayton 2HP 220 on my Emerson-built 1948 10" TS. It runs beautifully. I love my vintage motors but I am thinking of upgrading the horsepower on my 1937 10" Craftsman with something similar because it is a lovely saw that is a little weak with bigger stock and this saw deserves to be working harder. I don't think you can go wrong with increased horsepower on you floor model.

Do you have any pictures?
my current 3/4hp motor is 1/4" shy of sticking above the table with the arbor at 45*. I'm concerned a larger motor will prevent me from extending my beveled cuts to 45*.
 

AdrianBoomer

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I will take a few pics this morning when I am tooling around the shop. But a more modern motor will be smaller with greater horsepower. My 2 horse dayton is from the early 90sand has a smaller footprint, absolutely perfect, lots of clearance on the outfeed table when beveled.
 

All

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I think I have a motor mount for this saw. I just had foot surgery today but tomorrow when Im floating around my shop, I will look in the rathole and see if I can locate it. You just need the mount and shafts that set in the rear trunnion? PM me if want to discuss.

This is extremely nice of you, but I think I may have miscommunicated the part I needed with respect the motor alignment pin.

This is the part I was referring to... in the center of the photo below:

View media item 77736
 

All

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All

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Some vintage Craftsmen aficionados may have noticed the "washing machine" stand, a hold over from the locomotive inspired "streamlined" art deco design aesthetic popularized in the 1940's. This saw was made in 1949-1950.

The width of the stand streamlined with the width of the bench saw's cabinet, and the bulbous detail of the stand's legs, as well as the down and inward taper of the stand's side plates, match and compliment the contours of the saw body itself, unlike the wider, more generic, and less contoured stands produced soon afterward where one size fit multiple machines. This stand is made for this machine only, as far as I have been able to determine.

The wood gussets under the stand support the dust collection hopper and plumbing under the saw. Here's what the hopper looks like inside the saw's cabinet:

The foam surround is fitted in the gap between the saw cabinet's sides and the welded on base ring. It is the welded base ring (about 2" high) that is actually bolted through the form fitting stand.

View media item 77761
I chose a steep angular bevel for the hopper, to eliminate horizontal "shelf surfaces" that layer upon successive layer of sawdust would pile up upon forming a strata that would interest a geologist or archeologist in later years if not cleaned out periodically.

View media item 77759
The taper eliminates the opportunity for all that dust to pile up and collect, instead combining the forces of gravity, blade throw, and shop vac suction to whisk away the wood debris while it is still flying.

View media item 77760
The "drain hole" is 4", for a standard shop dust collection system. But since I don't have a dust collection system, I have a tapered reducer (as opposed to a stepped reducer, which creates stop blocks that collect dust and restrict flow) to bring the 4" gradually down to the 2.5" shop vac hose size.

View media item 77758
 
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Smokeshow69

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Some vintage Craftsmen aficionados may have noticed the "washing machine" stand, a hold over from the locomotive inspired "streamlined" art deco design aesthetic popularized in the 1940's. This saw was made in 1949-1950.



The width of the stand streamlined with the width of the bench saw's cabinet, and the bulbous detail of the stand's legs, as well as the down and inward taper of the stand's side plates, match and compliment the contours of the saw body itself, unlike the wider, more generic, and less contoured stands produced soon afterward where one size fit multiple machines. This stand is made for this machine only, as far as I have been able to determine.



The wood gussets under the stand support the dust collection hopper and plumbing under the saw. Here's what the hopper looks like inside the saw's cabinet:



The foam surround is fitted in the gap between the saw cabinet's sides and the welded on base ring. It is the welded base ring (about 2" high) that is actually bolted through the form fitting stand.



View media item 77761


I chose a steep angular bevel for the hopper, to eliminate horizontal "shelf surfaces" that layer upon successive layer of sawdust would pile up upon forming a strata that would interest a geologist or archeologist in later years if not cleaned out periodically.



View media item 77759


The taper eliminates the opportunity for all that dust to pile up and collect, instead combining the forces of gravity, blade throw, and shop vac suction to whisk away the wood debris while it is still flying.



View media item 77760


The "drain hole" is 4", for a standard shop dust collection system. But since I don't have a dust collection system, I have a tapered reducer (as opposed to a stepped reducer, which creates stop blocks that collect dust and restrict flow) to bring the 4" gradually down to the 2.5" shop vac hose size.



View media item 77758



Let me be the first to say you have an awesome saw ! It is in good shape and will give you years of great service. I like your dust collection system and think I will copy it! I have been searching for something similar and your design is simple and well thought out in regards to the shop vac suction.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

All

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Thanks. Can't use the saw because it doesn't have a (decent) fence. When I am able to find a fence for it, I will install a dado blade and dedicate the machine to cutting dados, as this particular model has the longer arbor shaft for doing dados. I would just need to get the wider cut dado insert.

I have a couple of other vintage Craftsman table saws, and would like to join OWWM, but can't, because their computer thinks I am a spammer. If any member of OWWM would like to help me join, so I can obtain more specific information about these vintage Craftsman table saws beyond the generally automotive scope of GJ, please PM me.
 
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Outlawmws

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All, you can get or make inserts that are blank to make zero clearance inserts with. Set the dado to max an slowly bring it to full height running, and Bobs your uncle.

Fence: on my tiny 1936 tilting table I've been using either an angle clamped in place, or an edge clamp, which make an admirable fence...

If you are setting up multiple saws, I recently sole a pair of model 100 King-Seeley 10" Craftsman saws that I mounted to a single stand, and bolted them side by side. One for cutting one for dados; one continuous fence rail , same fence for both saws, extensions for the sides, all I needed was room for a big outfeed!
 

All

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Outlawmws... I saw a user on a saw mill forum named "woodnthings" who did something similar. He called it his "twin engine" table saw. He used two Craftsman 70's to 80's era saws, with cast iron tables and extensions, all bolted together enmasse, sharing a common (good quality) fence.

Hard to believe that the 70's and 80's are now so far behind us that tools from that era are now considered "vintage" too. I remember when the book 1984 seemed so impossibly far into the future...
 

All

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Today I'm working on a 12" direct drive "vintage" Craftsman table saw that is now 40 years old. I need the rubber cups that stretch over the leveler feet. The metal leveler feet are just fine and serviceable. I just want new rubber cups. Any hints?

This is the kind of thing I'd ask over at OWWM, but cannot register successfully.
 

Cruzan80

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If you are setting up multiple saws, I recently sole a pair of model 100 King-Seeley 10" Craftsman saws that I mounted to a single stand, and bolted them side by side. One for cutting one for dados; one continuous fence rail , same fence for both saws, extensions for the sides, all I needed was room for a big outfeed!

Lots of people will match up a Unisaw and Shaper, connected by a Besides or Unifence, instead of a side table.

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Outlawmws

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Today I'm working on a 12" direct drive "vintage" Craftsman table saw that is now 40 years old. I need the rubber cups that stretch over the leveler feet. The metal leveler feet are just fine and serviceable. I just want new rubber cups. Any hints?

This is the kind of thing I'd ask over at OWWM, but cannot register successfully.

Need pics, but most leveler feet are the same for many different appliances. most IIR are 5/16 coarse. if yours are also, most any hardware store, possibly even the Big Box stores, have then both bare steel or rubber covered....
 

Outlawmws

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Found the pic of the double T Saw:


Only one extension mounted, but I had both and the needed fence rail piece.

attachment.php
 

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Honest Bob

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Thats a mighty fine saw! A fence and some pals later and it'll be a great saw.

I tore a 113 down and refurbished it about a year ago at great expense (bought hand wheels, bearings, cast pulley, link belt, miter gauge, pals, accusquare fence, and replaced the trunion after I broke it during disassembly). I just found out that the 2hp motor was wired for 220, (I had it on 110) it made a huge difference.

Then of course a cabinet saw shows up a on craigstlist and I'm starting over again, Its a sickness.

Pics finally. This is nothing like Honest Bob's rare find of a cabinet saw, but it is the saw I have. And this first image is the fence that I am seeking to eliminate and replace with a more accurate and consistent fence from either an earlier or later era.

View media item 77765
And a few more general pics with the fence removed...

View media item 77764
View media item 77763
View media item 77762
 

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Outlawmws

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The double (and an 8" Delta Homecraft) was sold this past summer. Leaving me with the tiny 7" tilting table Companion, (Almost a Craftsman) TS I've been using for basic ripping duty (about all I generally use a TS for). I talked about doing that for several years, and finally did it...

This is the little 7 incher setup for re-sawing oak pallet wood I made into camping gear boxes (see my Camp thread for more details)

attachment.php



I later set it up for finger joints for the same project:





It's getting remounted into a typewriter stand that has the foot actuated "pop up" casters, and is on legs otherwise. Motor will go under the table.
 

All

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A fence and some pals later...

What fence would you recommend? Vega? Delta? Accufence? Craftsman 9-29910 aftermarket fence? Craftsman XR2424 aftermarket fence? Biesemeyer (is there a smaller version?)? Delta T2? Delta T3? Something else?

What is a PALS? The Precision Alignment system for Contractor's Saws with belt driven motors manufactured by InLine Industries (as spoken with freshman knowledge gleaned from googling before asking, but here and now confirming if this is what you meant)?

I tore a 113 down and refurbished it about a year ago at great expense (bought hand wheels, bearings, cast pulley, link belt, miter gauge, pals, accusquare fence, and replaced the trunion after I broke it during disassembly).

Is that the saw in the thumbnail photo at the bottom of your quote of my post?

If so, you did a BEAUTIFUL job on that restoration. Saw looks like you bought it new, and used it while taking good care of it. Nice work Outlaw.

I don't blame you for picking up that new cabinet saw though. That isn't a sickness. That's a rare saw. Glad you found it. Based on what you've done with the previous saw, your new saw is in really good hands.
 

Honest Bob

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Yeah the Inline Industries PALS are what I'm talking about.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/contractor-saw-pals/

As for a fence this is where I got mine after much research.
http://www.mulecab.com/
I believe I have the M-1050 as I planned on making a router table on the end of it. I dont have any experience with the other fences but it was the best bang for the buck I could find at the time. After I aligned the trunions with the PALS and added the fence using the table saw was actually fun to use and no more checking if the fence was square every time I moved it.

Yeah the picture attached is my original table saw. Thanks it turned out well.

Another tip is to paint the insides of the table saw white. It makes it easier to see when changing the blade or servicing it.

Honestly this guys playlist is excellent if your dealing with a 113 table saw. Yours might be a little different but probably similar.


What fence would you recommend? Vega? Delta? Accufence? Craftsman 9-29910 aftermarket fence? Craftsman XR2424 aftermarket fence? Biesemeyer (is there a smaller version?)? Delta T2? Delta T3? Something else?

What is a PALS? The Precision Alignment system for Contractor's Saws with belt driven motors manufactured by InLine Industries (as spoken with freshman knowledge gleaned from googling before asking, but here and now confirming if this is what you meant)?



Is that the saw in the thumbnail photo at the bottom of your quote of my post?

If so, you did a BEAUTIFUL job on that restoration. Saw looks like you bought it new, and used it while taking good care of it. Nice work Outlaw.

I don't blame you for picking up that new cabinet saw though. That isn't a sickness. That's a rare saw. Glad you found it. Based on what you've done with the previous saw, your new saw is in really good hands.
 

whateg01

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I just picked up a new-to-me saw last night, 113.27520. I haven't dragged it out of the truck yet, so no pics, but I'm excited to replace a newer saw with one with character!

I'm also looking at picking up a more portable, smaller saw. It looks like this one:

attachment.php


I was wondering, how does the motor tilt? Or does just the trunnion move and the motor stays stationary? I assume the knob on the front raises and lowers the blade. Where is the mechanism to lock and tilt the blade located? I haven't gone and looked at the saw yet, and I've looked around on this site and VM, but haven't seen that info anywhere.

Dave
 

whateg01

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The motor mount is part of the blade arbor that tilts and the motor with it.

So, it appears that this is incorrect. While the motor does mount to the trunnion on the 10" saws,the 8" and 9" motors mount to the base of the saw, so it can't rotate with the motor. I guess the belt just twists to keep the motor and arbor pulleys connected.

I also figured out that tilt and raising is all accomplished with the one knob on the front of the saw. Push in to raise/lower and pull out to tilt. Kind of a cool mechanism.

Dave
 

Cruzan80

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Outlaw, the one knob you see in front has two different gears meshed behind the steel. When pulling out, it engages one set, and pushing in engages the second. You need to be careful, as you can damage teeth if they don't line up and you jam the gears. Forget which raises/lowers and which tilts. The motor on this attaches to a horizontal rod installed along the back feet, and is tensioned simply by the belt. Think if the hinge point of the 100 motor mount was built in to the base. It can slide left/right to help with belt twisting.

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whateg01

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I need to get some pictures taken, if for nothing else, so I have before and after clean-up. I now have a 113.27520 and an 80, but no boilerplate anywhere, so I don't know what the model number actually is. Or, maybe I just haven't found it. Anyway, the 80 came with a jointer, which looks mostly functional, but has one major broken piece. I'll remake it when I get some time. It won't be cast, but should last a lot longer. I could make it from brass. I will take both of these saws apart and clean them up, maybe paint, maybe not. It's interesting, though, that the 8" saw has a 7-1/4" blade on it now, but it's pretty close to the lip near the front of the trunnion, so I don't know how an 8" would fit in there. Hopefully, disassembly reveals that something is out of place.

I still kinda want to go get the 9" saw that is about an hour away. My gf says I need it like I need another hole in the head. Sure, but I already had a nice, functional, newer Craftsman contractor saw, so I didn't really need another one at all. But now that I've started down this road... go big or go home!

Dave
 

woodland_hank

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This saw was purchased new by my Grandfather in 1954-55. I inherited it in 1986 and used it until about 1991 when it went in to storage. Pulled it out in December of 2009 and decided to completely restore it. It's now done and sitting in my bedroom as a showpiece. No before pics though. I was too excited to start and forgot to take any. It's a 103.22161 8" saw.
 

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BlueHeart

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This saw was purchased new by my Grandfather in 1954-55. I inherited it in 1986 and used it until about 1991 when it went in to storage. Pulled it out in December of 2009 and decided to completely restore it. It's now done and sitting in my bedroom as a showpiece. No before pics though. I was too excited to start and forgot to take any. It's a 103.22161 8" saw.

Absolutely beautiful! :beer:
 
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