Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Thread

[bubinga]

So, it appears that this is incorrect. While the motor does mount to the trunnion on the 10" saws,the 8" and 9" motors mount to the base of the saw, so it can't rotate with the motor. I guess the belt just twists to keep the motor and arbor pulleys connected.

I also figured out that tilt and raising is all accomplished with the one knob on the front of the saw. Push in to raise/lower and pull out to tilt. Kind of a cool mechanism.
Dave

i had one of those.
pulling the Know out to tilt , it was always stiff.
But it was a super accurate little saw.
BTY, That will actually take a 9" blade.

 

[bubinga]

Outlaw, the one knob you see in front has two different gears meshed behind the steel. When pulling out, it engages one set, and pushing in engages the second. You need to be careful, as you can damage teeth if they don't line up and you jam the gears. Forget which raises/lowers and which tilts. The motor on this attaches to a horizontal rod installed along the back feet, and is tensioned simply by the belt. Think if the hinge point of the 100 motor mount was built in to the base. It can slide left/right to help with belt twisting.

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Pulling out and turning tilts the arbor.
Push in and turning raises and lowers the blade.

 

[woodland_hank]

Your saw looks great. Good job on the restoration.

Jay

Jay, thanks. That's a couple older pictures. I adapted one of the old Craftsman pedestal stands and need to take an updated picture of the completed project.

 

[BlueHeart]

Jay, thanks. That's a couple older pictures. I adapted one of the old Craftsman pedestal stands and need to take an updated picture of the completed project.

Yes, please do.

 

[Cruzan80]

There is a custom stand specifically for this version. I know because I had one, sold to a buddy. He may still have it, and be willing to part with it if someone can figure out shipping.

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[MayerMR]

Here's my contribution, a Craftsman-branded, but I believe Walker-Turner made, 8'' table saw. When I got it the guide fence knob was broken off, so I did my best to reproduce the knob by building a mold and casting a new one using JB Weld as the casting material. I also sanded the wooden guide on the fence down and re-lacquered it. I've yet to hook a motor back up to it and put it back into service.

I'm currently in the process of restoring the miter-gauge.

 

[Outlawmws]

Mayer nice restore!

What is the first three digits of the model number?

 

[MayerMR]

Mayer nice restore!

What is the first three digits of the model number?

Thanks! I did more of a "refurbish" than a restore on this one...the original paint and patina were just too good for me to really want to tear into too much.

I couldn't find a model number on it anywhere, but I believe it's the same model as the one listed in the below links:

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=30205

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=34131

Best I can figure is that it's a 1930's-era saw...?

Pretty happy with the saw, but if anyone is interested in it and has a small table-top milling machine I'd be happy to kick in some cash to grease an exchange!

 

[Dale D.]

I still have my dads late 40's Craftsman table saw with the extensions and a jointer on the left end. The motor just swings up and you slide it over to the jointer and slip the belt back on your ready to go. It is a big heavy thing but it all works.

Dale

 

[woodland_hank]

There is a custom stand specifically for this version. I know because I had one, sold to a buddy. He may still have it, and be willing to part with it if someone can figure out shipping.

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The stand I modified is from a 10" saw. I couldn't at the time find an original one so opted to use what I had. It works well and looks nearly identical to the original stand. The project has been done for a number of years and I'm happy with it the way it is. Thanks for the offer though.

 

[Cameronl]

I'd like to see pics if you have them cause that's just weird. Never seen one setup that way.

I'm a little late to this party, but I'm in the process of getting one of these back in action. The motor is pushed by a pin out the back of the arbor to keep it in line with the arbor pulley, but it doesn't tilt. The belt does indeed twist. Here's a pic of mine (with my homemade version of the motor mount).

 

[Outlawmws]

That's pretty weird! I've never seen one like that; tilting arbor (and motor), and tilting table, but not that...

 

[whateg01]

That's pretty weird! I've never seen one like that; tilting arbor (and motor), and tilting table, but not that...

Except for the 10" saws, all of the Craftsman saws did that. The 10" attached the motor bracket right to the arbor, so it all tilted together. The rest didn't.

Dave

 

[tapered-pin]

FYI, on the 10" saw (113.27520) I put a 2HP motor on it and the motor extends above the top of the table when tilted much past about 35*.

I'm trying to determine if I can modify the motor mount (attached to the arbor) so that this is not an issue.

 

[CKS1955]

FYI, on the 10" saw (113.27520) I put a 2HP motor on it and the motor extends above the top of the table when tilted much past about 35*.

I'm trying to determine if I can modify the motor mount (attached to the arbor) so that this is not an issue.

You can modify the motor mounting plate to lower the motor, but I think a 2 HP motor may be a little too much for this table saw. I had a similar one (113.27521) and installed a 2HP TEFC. But ended up installing the 1 HP, I was concerned with the power and weight being too much for the components of this table saw.

Jay

 

[Outlawmws]

1 HP should be plenty of power for a 10"

 

[tapered-pin]

You can modify the motor mounting plate to lower the motor, but I think a 2 HP motor may be a little too much for this table saw. I had a similar one (113.27521) and installed a 2HP TEFC. But ended up installing the 1 HP, I was concerned with the power and weight being too much for the components of this table saw.

Jay

2HP is too much for the saw?

there isn't a contractors saw built after 1980 that can't take a motor upgrade to 2HP and this one is a solid cast iron table/trunion/arbor from the 1950s (more substantial than any contractors saw that Craftsman has turned out in the last 30 years)...

I'll modify the mounting plate to drop the saw, I only need about 1/2" to get the 2HP Baldor motor lower than the top of the table.

but even then, a 45* cut isn't critical for anything I would do on a regular basis...

1 HP should be plenty of power for a 10"

most consumer cabinet saws are 10" and they run up on 5HP ALL THE TIME..

 

[CKS1955]

...I'll modify the mounting plate to drop the saw, I only need about 1/2" to get the 2HP Baldor motor lower than the top of the table...

After modifying the mounting plate, if you find that additional clearance is necessary you can use spacers. For me the weight of two horsepower motor increased by about 23 pounds when compared to the one horsepower. Both motors were 1950 vintage. It made it difficult to raise the blade for me.

Jay

 

[Cruzan80]

most consumer cabinet saws are 10" and they run up on 5HP ALL THE TIME..

5HP now is usually measured as PEAK HP, vs the more normal ratings of yesteryear. Easier to compare FLA between motors.

 

[Outlawmws]

I have an 8" that does just fine on 1/2 HP and my old 10" king Sealys ran fine on 1HP and 3/4 HP.

 

[bubinga]

I have an 8" that does just fine on 1/2 HP and my old 10" king Sealys ran fine on 1HP and 3/4 HP.

Me too.my 103.XXXX 9 inch had a 3/4 IIRC.
My CM 113.XXXX had a 1 HP. Did fine, but used a thin kerf blade.

 

[CKS1955]

Me too.my 103.XXXX 9 inch had a 3/4 IIRC.
My CM 113.XXXX had a 1 HP. Did fine, but used a thin kerf blade.

I have an 8" that does just fine on 1/2 HP and my old 10" king Sealys ran fine on 1HP and 3/4 HP.

I have an 8” with 1/2 HP, an 8” with 3/4 HP, an 10” with a 1 HP and 10” Craftsman type cabinet saw with an 1-1/2 HP motor that all perform fine (all 1950’s vintage saw & motors).

I went through a phase where I thought more power was necessary (The Tim Allen more power syndrome).

Jay

 

[Outlawmws]

1956 Ads for Craftsman saws-

their "best" full pedestal T Saw:

And the ubiquitous 10":

 

[tapered-pin]

After modifying the mounting plate, if you find that additional clearance is necessary you can use spacers. For me the weight of two horsepower motor increased by about 23 pounds when compared to the one horsepower. Both motors were 1950 vintage. It made it difficult to raise the blade for me.

Jay

The 2hp Baldor I installed weighed 5# more than the 3/4hp motor (33#) that was original to the saw.
I didn't see that as a deal killer... the biggest issue (as you've pointed out) is that the clearance at the saw base assembly will be adjusted so as to allow the motor to drop enough to clear the top of the table and keep the belts above the saw base.

 

[CKS1955]

The 2hp Baldor I installed weighed 5# more than the 3/4hp motor (33#) that was original to the saw.
I didn't see that as a deal killer... the biggest issue (as you've pointed out) is that the clearance at the saw base assembly will be adjusted so as to allow the motor to drop enough to clear the top of the table and keep the belts above the saw base.

Newer motors definitely have less mass. You’ll have to watch the belt hitting the base of the saw, but that should only be a problem with the blade lowered. Spacers will help fine tune.

As someone mentioned above, a good quality blade really improves a saws performance.
Jay

 

[tapered-pin]

Newer motors definitely have less mass. You’ll have to watch the belt hitting the base of the saw, but that should only be a problem with the blade lowered. Spacers will help fine tune.

As someone mentioned above, a good quality blade really improves a saws performance.
Jay

I'll be using it on some 8/4 hardwoods, I'm going to need both power and a quality blade.

 

[bubinga]

I have an 8” with 1/2 HP, an 8” with 3/4 HP, an 10” with a 1 HP and 10” Craftsman type cabinet saw with an 1-1/2 HP motor that all perform fine (all 1950’s vintage saw & motors).

I went through a phase where I thought more power was necessary (The Tim Allen more power syndrome).

Jay

LOL "Tim the toolman" Ran across that show yesterday.
Tim was teaching the oldest boy to cut with a cutting torch.
Yeah, Again, my 113.XXXX came with a 1 HP 3400 RPM motor.
Did fine.
Sounds crazy, But it was a "safety net" a few times. My kerf was closing up a little, or something, don't recall 100% but I as able to apply a little more pressure and began to stall the blade, to help me while I could turn off the power.
Got one (1 HP, 3400 RPM) a few years ago, Off a 113.XXXX CM table saw at a garage sale for $15.00, (Good Price, IMO) . plan on putting it on vintage my 6" delta jointer when I get caught up.

 

[bubinga]

I'll be using it on some 8/4 hardwoods, I'm going to need both power and a quality blade.

"10/4" if using on 8/4.

 

[notlob]

Top of the line Craftsman cabinet saw in Oakland Hills/East SF Bay area - nice buy for $50.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/craftsman-table-saw/6655905899.html

No affiliation blah blah

 

[bubinga]

Top of the line Craftsman cabinet saw in Oakland Hills/East SF Bay area - nice buy for $50.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/craftsman-table-saw/6655905899.html

No affiliation blah blah

Nice saw..........Great Price!

 

[Zrxrunner]

Not sure how common these are, but got 2 almost identical for $22 with motors. One craftsman, one homart. I'll try n get more pics as I go on the cleanup too, but might be more of a winter project. Was lucky enough to come across a like new operator book for it at another sale for an whopping extra one dollar bill!

 

[driftpin]

My friend in Palm Beach County FL has a BNIB Craftsman 10" table saw, not sure of the model #, but I'm guessing it's close-to 40 years old. He bought it when he was having a new home built, but he never needed it.

 

[bubinga]

Not sure how common these are, but got 2 almost identical for $22 with motors. One craftsman, one homart. I'll try n get more pics as I go on the cleanup too, but might be more of a winter project. Was lucky enough to come across a like new operator book for it at another sale for an whopping extra one dollar bill!

fine little and accurate saw.
I had one.

 

[gthmcty1]

I just now got into vintage craftsman, I had a Delta 36-725 table saw and I never really used it and my neighbor was looking for a table saw paid $599 for it and sold it to him for $500 because he wanted a "new style" saw.

And I was scouring my local CL and found a craftsman 100 along with a vintage craftsman jointer got them both for $100 here is the saw I couldn't fit the jointer in my mustang lol so I have to go back and get that. The table saw came with the stand but I didn't pick it up but I think I mat go back and get from the guy.......

Question is it possible to replace the motor with a newer motor? I am unsure if the current one is operational I plugged it up and didn't get anything, any ideas what to check? Thanks

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

That was a beast of a motor before rust attacked it! Pop the covers off, clean up any rusty contacts one by one and see what happens. My ‘58 cabinet Saw is powered by one of those wired up to 220v. Very hard to bog down.

I see you have a cracked handle. I may have a good set tomorrow.


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[bubinga]

That was a beast of a motor before rust attacked it! Pop the covers off, clean up any rusty contacts one by one and see what happens. My ‘58 cabinet Saw is powered by one of those wired up to 220v. Very hard to bog down.

I see you have a cracked handle. I may have a good set tomorrow.


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Good advise.
Good little saws too!
Good Motor, Like the Unisaw Bullet

 

[Gasgano]

Very nice saws in this thread.
Im trying to restore my grandfathers 113.29901 back to working condition. The Arbor pivot pin was pretty much seized. Had to be hammered and gear pulled off. After I clean the pin and mating surfaces, what lubricant should I use to keep the arbor moving freely and rust free? The tolerances are so tight it seems hardly serviceable. I was planning on using some Amsoil grease I've got but figured I'd check with you more experienced people first.

 

[MayerMR]

Very nice saws in this thread.
Im trying to restore my grandfathers 113.29901 back to working condition. The Arbor pivot pin was pretty much seized. Had to be hammered and gear pulled off. After I clean the pin and mating surfaces, what lubricant should I use to keep the arbor moving freely and rust free? The tolerances are so tight it seems hardly serviceable. I was planning on using some Amsoil grease I've got but figured I'd check with you more experienced people first.

I like to use white lithium grease. It sticks to metal well, can take a wide variety of temps, and is pretty easy to see when it needs to be refreshed.

 

[Outlawmws]

After a recent test with lithium vs a moly based grease, the difference was night and day for a comprehensive load. I know synthetic greases (is your Amsoil synth?) also outperforms lithium or ordinary grease.

Lithium does "dry" a bit so less likely to load up with sawdust. I'd go with a synthetic, and usually use Mobile 1 for most things these days.

 

[Gasgano]

After a recent test with lithium vs a moly based grease, the difference was night and day for a comprehensive load. I know synthetic greases (is your Amsoil synth?) also outperform lithium or ordinary grease.

Lithium does "dry" a bit so less likely to load up with sawdust. I'd go with a synthetic, and usually use Mobile 1 for most things these days.

Yes, amsoil is synthetic.

Just to clarify, I'm referring to the main, approx 3/4" steel pin, that the arbor pivots on. Its pressed into the main "body" of the saw assembly and the arbor that holds the saw blade shaft, bearings and teeth rests over that pin and held in place with a bent "c" clip.
How do y'all keep it lubricated anyhow?
do you have to do a disassembly every few months to regrease?