Vintage S-K Tools

[d42jeep]

Raineman:
You're good. Very good. In fact the sockets are stamped "E" for, as you state, 1944
d42jeep:
The pictures are great. I've downloaded all of these and will print them out. I'm curious as to how you dated the set. The logos seem like the older pre war logos. So is it the fact that they are introduced in the catalog in 1941, the green wrinkle paint, the box? I didn't notice this in the 1943 catalog because I was looking quickly for something with a ratchet so knowing that this came with a flex handle (head) instead, I wasn't expecting that. By the way how or why did they determine that some sets came with a ratchet and others with a flex handle, or sometimes with both? If the flex handle and cross bar aren't marked how am I going to find them to complete the set? If I opt to get an early SK ratchet instead, what marks am I looking for, for this vintage?

Yesterday I was able to sit down with my dad (96 yrs old) and discuss this set with him. Unfortunately, he does not remember it but thinks he probably got it from work as an ATT Engineer in the early 50's for radio work. He does not know how it became a mixed set with some SK and some Snap On components. He never had a Snap On account and was never a big tool accumulator. He did spend 6+ years in the US Maritime Service as a radio operator starting at the end of WWII so maybe he got it then.

Some of the inside of the sockets look a bit worn. Whether they are still better than the cheap imported sets offered today, I can't say but I'm thinking of getting a GOOD set of American or German made (Wera maybe, I have some of their screwdrivers) sockets (1/4") to use with a Chapman gunsmithing set of hollow ground screwdrivers I just bought. Not to get off topic but I was very impressed with the set and dealing with Chapman. If you buy direct from their website you can buy extra pieces of things you can't get on Amazon and it ends up being cheaper. I can use the little Chapman ratchet that came with the set or maybe someone can recommend a smallish 4 1/2" ratchet (unless I can find a decent SK one) and some small sockets. I like the Wright Tool sockets, highly regarded, but pricey. I do have some Craftsman sockets Dad got in the 70's which I suppose are probably decent. The Wera small sockets look good as well. Or, I suppose I can get a repair kit for the small Snap On rachet thats present in my SK set.

Finally, is it a sacrilege if I polish these old sockets on my heavy duty buffing wheel, provided of course I don't disturb the stampings, or do most collectors want these with their accumulated patina?

The decal in your set was used through 1945. If your set was made before late 1941 the sockets would have been marked S-K Chrome rather than just S-K. Your set didn’t come with a ratchet but diamond logo 1/4” drive S-K ratchets aren’t that hard to find on eBay and are usually under $30.00, even less if you are patient. During WW2 the sockets were no longer Chrome plated.
S-K Chrome marked set, probably ‘40 to early ‘41.

Wartime sets, not chrome plated.
-Don

 

[xkrfan]

Great, thank you. What were they using the square nut 8 pt. sockets for mostly back then?

 

[xkrfan]

 

[xkrfan]

Just took a look at another old toolbox I have and its an SK filled with stuff!

 

[Shelbylex]

I found this broken ratchet in 2018. Put a kit in it and it works like new.
-Don

Great save, Don!!!

 

[four.cycle]

an S-K cantilivered box?

What were they using the square nut 8 pt. sockets for mostly back then?

square nuts. early radios (and all kinds of other stuff) used square nuts in the 1920s 1930s 1940s. not so much any more.

 

[Mintgrun]

That wooden handled 'screwdriver' in the top tray looks just like the handle on one I found, right down to the missing ferrule. This is an off topic question, but does the tip of your tool look like mine?

I still don't know what the heck it is for.

 

[Raineman]

Xkrfan,
“Finally, is it a sacrilege if I polish these old sockets on my heavy duty buffing wheel, provided of course I don't disturb the stampings, or do most collectors want these with their accumulated patina?”

As a collector of the Snap on ones, I prefer them untouched. Ultimately though, they are yours and do whatever you want to them. Just don’t make me watch, lol

 

[Oldtuleguy]

I will usually clean/derust them. Sometimes original finish is just gone, so at that point you are not hurting anything by polishing.

 

[StinkinEngine]

1943 Wartime Box, Ratchets and sockets with a few newer tools mixed in.

If interested let me know, I'm trying to make room to get some work done.

 

[bonneyman]

If a 1/4" order the 3/8" conversion; you wil be glad you did. I use mine ALL the time

That's what I did with a spare 1/4"er I had. haven't used it yet, but I have it if I need it.

Did S-K offer a conversion kit like that for the Tuff-1 ratchets?

 

[d42jeep]

1943 Wartime Box, Ratchets and sockets with a few newer tools mixed in.

If interested let me know, I'm trying to make room to get some work done.

Nice box but with the riveted on metal tag it is postwar. If you list it and the tools in the GJ classifieds somebody will probably be interested in it.
-Don
Similar but wartime box with decal.

 

[xkrfan]

I will usually clean/derust them. Sometimes original finish is just gone, so at that point you are not hurting anything by polishing.

Do you use a naval jelly type product?

 

[xkrfan]

That wooden handled 'screwdriver' in the top tray looks just like the handle on one I found, right down to the missing ferrule. This is an off topic question, but does the tip of your tool look like mine?

I still don't know what the heck it is for.

Mine is just a regular screwdriver.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

I like flitz polishing compound

 

[RTM]

Do you use a naval jelly type product?

If you like a battleship gray finish.


I wouldn’t use it on my tools.

 

[xkrfan]

If you like a battleship gray finish.


I wouldn’t use it on my tools.

What do you prefer for rust removal?

 

[Oldtuleguy]

I like evaporust

 

[xkrfan]

I like flitz polishing compound

I'll look into that. I believe I have Flitz silver polish.

 

[msharley]

That wooden handled 'screwdriver' in the top tray looks just like the handle on one I found, right down to the missing ferrule. This is an off topic question, but does the tip of your tool look like mine?

I still don't know what the heck it is for.

Carb jets....some "seats" also needed that one

 

[RTM]

What do you prefer for rust removal?

I use Evaporust, electrolysis, Sandflex blocks, whatever is least invasive. Occasionally on something really grossly rusted I may use a wire wheel, but it’s very rare.

 

[d42jeep]

I use Evaporust, electrolysis, Sandflex blocks, whatever is least invasive. Occasionally on something really grossly rusted I may use a wire wheel, but it’s very rare.

I use Evaporust on almost all cad or chrome plated sockets showing any rust but am careful not to dip any sockets with a black oxide finish. The Evaporust will remove the black oxide and leave behind a plain steel tool. I would hate to destroy a well preserved dark wartime set by being careless..
-Don

 

[Kdaniel8601]

Do you have any ideas on how to remove rust from this 3/8" waretime ratchet I won on eBay??

 

[Skyman]

Do you have any ideas on how to remove rust from this 3/8" waretime ratchet I won on eBay??

I swear by Evaporust. It's non-hazardous, and gets it done. Great stuff. Give it a try.

 

[four.cycle]

^ As Don pointed out just above, "Evaporust" will remove that nice black finish. Try some MMO on a soft cloth. Works wonders.

 

[Raineman]

What is MMO?

 

[plinker]

What is MMO?

Marvel mystery oil (most likely). Decent stuff.

 

[four.cycle]

Marvel Mystery Oil.
About all I use on stuff like that.
If I need to get a bit more aggressive I'll start with a piece of used "Scotchbrite" pad that's got most of the scratchy points worn off and work with that.
I recently "cleaned" a couple sets using mostly "Simple Green" and an old toothbrush. The small rust spots I dealt with using the above method. Here it is... it was all slimed with oil when I got it and a couple of the pieces had tiny rust spots on them:

 

[d42jeep]

I would take it apart and clean and lube the interior. Sometimes I’ll carefully use a brass hand wire brush on rusty spots trying to minimize any removal of the black oxide. Actually from what I can see in your pictures, it doesn’t look too bad as is. I’ve never tried the MMO but I have a can I use as air tool lube and I might give it a try.
-Don

 

[Provincial]

Green Scotch Brite pads are not supposed to have abrasive imbedded in them. Dish scrubbing pads are an example, but green pads are available in larger sizes and without the sponge back. If you can use green pads on your Teflon pans, it shouldn't harm an oxide coating.

 

[Kdaniel8601]

Thanks for the information, I have another 3/8" black oxide, but most of the black finish is gone, this one is much darker and I don't want to miss it up.

 

[Mintgrun]

Scotch brite pads come in various grits/colors. The grey ones are quite gentle, especially once worn, but they do leave very fine scratches on chrome. It's not really an issue on bare steel tools. I have to respectfully disagree that green pads do not have abrasives. The blue pads on sponges are grit-free though.

I just googled it and found this:

Are green Scotch-Brite pads abrasive?

Description : Thin green general purpose cleaning and scouring hand pad, made of high quality synthetic fiber forming an open textured non-woven web, having abrasive cleaning particles evenly dispersed throughout and bonded to the web with a durable resin.


While brass brushes are gentle, in my experience they can have a tendency to rub off on the tool, leaving a golden hue. I prefer a fine stainless steel brush.

Try using scissors to shorten the bristles on toothbrushes. Make a really short one around 1/8" and another slightly longer. They do a much better job of scrubbing. I've been using hand soap, such as LAVA, or Boraxo as a first step and then getting more aggressive if need be. I'm often pleasantly surprised by how much comes off with a little soap and water.

I also like using a razor blade as a scraper to go at the crusty bits.

I have two wire wheels on a grinder (medium/fine) that can come in handy, but I've seen a ton of tools messed up with that method. Very often, it simply burnishes the rust, as opposed to removing it. Never use wire wheels on cad plated tools.

Electrolysis is tons of fun, but has its limitations as well. It will fizz off paint as well as thin plating and can leave pitting where deep rust has been. I find it quite useful. Even short swims in the bucket can make cleaning much easier.

 

[four.cycle]

^ Sorry... I should have been more clear there. I'm using the word "Scotchbrite" as we all do "Band-Aid" or "Kleenex".

I don't buy genuine "3M" brand "Scotchbrite" pads. I buy the cheapie generic stuff up at "BigLots!" - they're like five for two bucks.
You can get even cheaper ones from the Asian stores - they fall apart even faster.

I will use them to scrub my broiler pan or something like that FIRST, which really kind of takes the "edge" off, and THAT is what I start with on something vintage because I do not want to add any scratches.

In one of Don Long's threads, he mentioned he was using a product called "Barkeeper's Friend" to clean some things, and I tried some of that on some plated sockets with great success. The sockets in that "Proxxon" box above were cleaned with small swatches of paper towel and that "Barkeeper's Friend" powder and "Simple Green". (That Proxxon kit was completely slimed when I got it - real greasball stuff.)

 

[LNKMK8]

I thought this was kind of neat... I have a friend who will pick me up interesting things that he comes across. He found this 75th Anniversary Belt Buckle

 

[xkrfan]

I use Evaporust on almost all cad or chrome plated sockets showing any rust but am careful not to dip any sockets with a black oxide finish. The Evaporust will remove the black oxide and leave behind a plain steel tool. I would hate to destroy a well preserved dark wartime set by being careless..
-Don

I'm posting some pictures of the "cantilivered" SK Tool Box along with a photo of some of the older tools that were inside. Some older Utica tools, a Snap-On, couple small Barcalo wrenches, Xcelite pieces, some Stanley, etc. The finish on the box is a dark green, but unlike the wrinkle paint SK green box I posted a few days ago, this is orange peel. It is 19" long. Can anyone take a stab at the date of this box?

 

[Old Radar]

Scotch brite pads come in various grits/colors. The grey ones are quite gentle, especially once worn, but they do leave very fine scratches on chrome. It's not really an issue on bare steel tools. I have to respectfully disagree that green pads do not have abrasives. The blue pads on sponges are grit-free though.

I just googled it and found this:

Are green Scotch-Brite pads abrasive?

Description : Thin green general purpose cleaning and scouring hand pad, made of high quality synthetic fiber forming an open textured non-woven web, having abrasive cleaning particles evenly dispersed throughout and bonded to the web with a durable resin.


While brass brushes are gentle, in my experience they can have a tendency to rub off on the tool, leaving a golden hue. I prefer a fine stainless steel brush.

Try using scissors to shorten the bristles on toothbrushes. Make a really short one around 1/8" and another slightly longer. They do a much better job of scrubbing. I've been using hand soap, such as LAVA, or Boraxo as a first step and then getting more aggressive if need be. I'm often pleasantly surprised by how much comes off with a little soap and water.

I also like using a razor blade as a scraper to go at the crusty bits.

I have two wire wheels on a grinder (medium/fine) that can come in handy, but I've seen a ton of tools messed up with that method. Very often, it simply burnishes the rust, as opposed to removing it. Never use wire wheels on cad plated tools.

Electrolysis is tons of fun, but has its limitations as well. It will fizz off paint as well as thin plating and can leave pitting where deep rust has been. I find it quite useful. Even short swims in the bucket can make cleaning much easier.

I'm with you on all counts, Mintgrun. Those 3M green pads can do some damage. I sometimes use the maroon colored ones after I've worn them down on other things. If I've got a bunch of sockets to clean, I dump them in a container with degreaser and then go after them with a SS brush. I pick up plumbers pipe brushes at estate sales to use on the interior of the sockets--I've got a load of different sizes. If the sockets aren't too gunked up I use Simple Green instead of degreaser. Both methods usually do a number on any rust that's there. If there's a lot sockets to be cleaned (plane steel or chrome--not cadmium) I'll put a socket adapter on my drill and palm a well-worn sudsy maroon pad and spin the sockets on the end of the drill while gently grasping them with the pad. Just don't hold too tight--even the softest pad will leave marks if you squeeze down on it.

 

[Kdaniel8601]

I uploaded the two early 1960's S-K Lectrolite ads. to Internet Archives. S-K 21pc. 1/4" Drive Socket Set Ad. - S-K/Lectrolite 1962 Spring Specials Ad.

 

[bonneyman]

Marvel mystery oil (most likely). Decent stuff.

I try and grab vintage MMO when I can find it. I don't think the newer stuff is the same. I use the new stuff in the gas tank of my cars, the older stuff gets reserved for breaking free old machines and ratchets.

https://v2.myactionems.com/msds/MarvelMysteryOil..pdf

 

[d42jeep]

This chrome plated 3/8” drive beaver tail ratchet arrived in the mail today.
Here are a couple of comparison shots with my plain finish version which I assume is wartime.
-Don

 

[d42jeep]

I watched this empty box on eBay for about a week. The price wasn’t bad and I finally pulled the trigger on a buy it now. The decal was what pushed me over the edge. I pulled some tools out of a box that wasn’t in such nice condition.
-Don
Here it is with other similar sets.