Walker Turner Drill Press - Rebuild

[MAYOR28]

Last summer my grandfather passed away, he was my hero, and inspired me in nearly everything I have done so far in my life. He is the reason I became an engineer, the hours that we spent "out on the farm" and in his shop had an impact on my life that will never wear away nor be forgotten.
He blessed me with all of his tools that he had accumulated over the years, and although it has been a year since his death, and almost 8 months since I moved his pole barn (in MI) of tools into my attached garage (in MD), I have finally begun to sort through some of them.

One of the big ticket items that was left to me was his old Walker Turner Drill Press. Seen here in my garage:

It has fallen into some disrepair during the last few years of limited use, but I think it is a fine specimen and in need to restoration. Here is what I started with:

Does anyone know what this eyelet is for above the motor???????

A few questions:

Almost all of the restorations that I have seen on this type of WT DP do not have the pulley cover, is this a rare find?

What is a good source for the red variable length belts to replace the v-belt?

Any idea what year this was manufactured?

Any way to pull the WT tag off and clean it without ruining it?


-Matt

 

[zkling]

Out of curiosity, what type of engineer are you and in what industry do you work?

I'm typing up a response to your other questions.

Does anyone know what this eyelet is for above the motor???????
-Matt

It is for an optional "slow speed attachment". A 3rd pulley that would reduce the spindle speed even further. Typically found on the metal working presses. Kinda surprised the one you have doesn't have it.

Almost all of the restorations that I have seen on this type of WT DP do not have the pulley cover, is this a rare find?

Yes, finding a rear pulley cover that is not destroyed is not very common. Neither is a production table like that without a broken or cracked coolant cup or a bunch of holes in the table. You are lucky. Looks like your grandfather took very good care of it. Definitely the sign of a skilled and knowledgeable machinist.

What is a good source for the red variable length belts to replace the v-belt?

Nowhere. Do NOT use one of those link belts. They are just the easy way out and will chew up aluminum pulleys. Get a proper length good quality USA made gates V belt.

Any idea what year this was manufactured?

Late 30's though the 40's. Would need serial number for exact year. It is a model D936.

1951

Any way to pull the WT tag off and clean it without ruining it?[/B]

Yes

 

[MAYOR28]

After a few hours of dis-assembly here is where it sits:

And I did a little work on the work table with some scotch-brite cookies on my HF die grinder. The result is rather impressive:

 

[MAYOR28]

Out of curiosity, what type of engineer are you and in what industry do you work?

I'm typing up a response to your other questions.

I'm a Mechanical Engineer in the Aerospace/Defense industry.

 

[Mavawreck]

Sorry for your loss but restoring his tools is a great way for his memory to live on. I really dig the old walker turner stuff as well.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'm glad to hear you appreciate what your grandfather left you, both in memories, and tools!


The condition of that DP is unbelievable! no "arc of shame" and it still has the belt guard!


Yes the belt covers are RARE.



The "rivets" holding the WT label on the front are almost certianly the drive pin type that have a very fast twist built in so the pins press in lightly. with the quill out, you can likely get to the inside and tap start than out. if not I've used flush cutting dykes it nurse under the edge while getting the head started to lift them once the head is up a fraction, catching those edges with a pair of slip joints, (in the jaw teeth, so pick good ones) and twisting and puling them out. Only maybe a 1/4 turn to get them out at a guess.

My guess is that eye is for holding a third pulley tensioner for getting the DP from 4 speeds to 16. it would need to be moved up on the column for that however...

Post the S/N and it's likely someone else can give you a mfg date range at least.

 

[MAYOR28]

Serial Number is 51DL4A

On the side there is a placard that looks like it only has one stamped number on it, but 2072646

 

[zkling]

Serial Number is 51DL4A

On the side there is a placard that looks like it only has one stamped number on it, but 2072646

1951, see my above post for your other questions.

 

[the king crew]

The best place to go for information about vintage machines is VintageMachinery.org

Information and pictures of W-T machines here:
Walker Turner machines

Addition info about W-T serial numbers:
Walker Turner serial numbers

Lee

 

[MAYOR28]

The best place to go for information about vintage machines is VintageMachinery.org

Information and pictures of W-T machines here:
Walker Turner machines

Addition info about W-T serial numbers:
Walker Turner serial numbers

Lee

Wow. Great info over there.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[MAYOR28]

I really like the way that this guy over at wood.net finished his motor. Is this period correct?

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbth...78276&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=7&o=&fpart=all

 

[MAYOR28]

1951, see my above post for your other questions.

Thanks for the info, zkling.

Did you see my previous answer to your question?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Bears Fan]

Grandpa would be proud

 

[jabberwoki]

Belt cover Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
So cool to see one complete and it`s your grand pops makes it extra cool
VERY NICE.

 

[oldldh]

As I've said before..."You are the arrow your Grandfather fired into the future..."

Restore his tools, that need it/use them all/pass them on to your grandchildren...

The best thing a man can do is create a happy memory, and a smile...after he's gone...

God bless you and yours...

 

[OccupantRJ]

The ID tag is held on by drive screws. They are available in various sizes and lengths like any other hardware. We use them at work, so I have a pair of end nips that I have ground the face so they cut exactly at the front surface. These are used to remove drive screws when needed by biting in underneath the head of the drive screw.

 

[Outlawmws]

Slightly off topic, that card file cabinet to the DP's left is also cool. I'd strip that and paint it olive drab...

 

[MAYOR28]

Slightly off topic, that card file cabinet to the DP's left is also cool. I'd strip that and paint it olive drab...

That is also from my grandpa's shop, I take after him more than I realize, because I had rescued this cabinet from the trash at work a few years ago:

Undoubtedly his was also from work trash.......I plan to have them match eventually......

 

[scw1991]

I've been a member of www.vintagemachinery.org and owwm.org for about 10 years now and it's the best place around to aid in your restoration/rebuild of this type of machinery. Once you join owwm.org you can go to the BOYD (bring out your dead) section and post a WTB (want to buy) for various missing parts. This website has about 10,000 members or so if not mistaken and there are guys like myself who have a rat hole full of vintage machinery parts. It may take quite a bit of time to locate your missing parts, but sooner or later someone will chime in and offer to sell to you. The members are great to deal with.

 

[MAYOR28]

The "rivets" holding the WT label on the front are almost certianly the drive pin type that have a very fast twist built in so the pins press in lightly. with the quill out, you can likely get to the inside and tap start than out. if not I've used flush cutting dykes it nurse under the edge while getting the head started to lift them once the head is up a fraction, catching those edges with a pair of slip joints, (in the jaw teeth, so pick good ones) and twisting and puling them out. Only maybe a 1/4 turn to get them out at a guess.

Are you talking about this sort of drive screw?

Can I drill this out like you would a solid rivet, and then just replace it?

.

 

[zkling]

You CAN, but you run the risk of damaging the tag. Usually the preferred method is to carefully make a slot in the head of the rivet and then use a screwdriver to turn it out like you would when removing a screw. Just buy a few drive rivets to put it back in place. Don't use standard pop rivets, that is just tacky IMHO.

 

[scw1991]

Just leave all the tags in place, mask them off and re-paint. You risk damaging the tag trying to remove it. It's not like the machine is being put in the Smithsonian. Clean it up, give it a shot of rattle-can paint and enjoy a lifetime of using this beautiful machine.

I've restored dozens of pieces of vintage machinery like this and my word of advise: don't strip castings down to bare metal unless you have to. The epoxy primers they used back then were very durable and they also were applied quite generously. The thickness of that original primer coat does a great job at masking casting imperfections.

 

[Outlawmws]

Are you talking about this sort of drive screw?

Can I drill this out like you would a solid rivet, and then just replace it?

.

Yep, that is the one. drilling is a possibility, I've never needed to do that though. I'd look for back side access and tap them out first...

 

[OccupantRJ]

I went out to my excess materials storage building at work today, and lo and behold, there is a floor model Walker Turner drill press of this size and vintage with the slotted table. Wonder who has a possibility of ending up with THAT one.........

 

[Outlawmws]

I went out to my excess materials storage building at work today, and lo and behold, there is a floor model Walker Turner drill press of this size and vintage with the slotted table. Wonder who has a possibility of ending up with THAT one.........

Sometimes all you have to do is ask "What is the plan for ..."

Often a Case of beer will do it...

 

[OccupantRJ]

Sometimes all you have to do is ask "What is the plan for ..."

Often a Case of beer will do it...

Actually, it is even easier than that. I am in charge of the storage. If I tell the owner it is not needed or is obsolete, I have an excelent shot at it, as NO ONE else where I work would be even slightly interested. Often I am the only person bidding, so things tend to go home with me.

 

[MAYOR28]

I don't think accessing the back side of the drive screws is a possibility......so for now I am going to leave the tags on and try to clean around them. I may tape over them now to prevent accidental wear.

I was considering using roloc bristle discs (LINKY) to remove the paint from the cast metal parts.....Anyone have experience with these? Longevity?

(I do not have access to a sand blaster, went through that search when I was working on the corvette.....)(and I do not have the funds to get one)(but would like one.....)


Matt.

 

[kc-steve]

Very good info Matt. I have an old WT press I need to restore as well. Yours is in better shape than mine. I had also read that the label colors help pin-point the production time period. Initially on its own, Kearney & Trekker bought them sometime in the 40s. Then Rockwell bought WT in 1956. They changed the label designs with each new ownership.

Steve

 

[uniballer]

I really like the way that this guy over at wood.net finished his motor. Is this period correct?

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbth...78276&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=7&o=&fpart=all

Thank you for sharing that, had no clue that a jacobs chuck could come abart so easy!

 

[sloppy]

Are you talking about this sort of drive screw?

Can I drill this out like you would a solid rivet, and then just replace it?

.

I usually just carefully slot then with a dremel then back it out like a screw. Unless I can tap it out from the backside on a thru hole..

 

[MAYOR28]

I was able to find some bristle discs locally, and they were cheaper than the online venues. They seem to work best on flat or gently curved surfaces. They have trouble getting into corners and come apart when they hit hard edges. So, using a combination of mechanical and chemical removal, here is where I am at:

Found this tag on the front of the base. I am guessing that it was some ID Number from the original owner (Wyandot Chemical/BASF).

 

[Hot Chop shop]

Thanks for all the info!!!
I just picked up this similar DP tonight and I'm excited to start the rebuild processes as well...

I don't wanna high jack your thread but if anyone has any info on this model that would be great... in particular need to know where to buy the correct key for the chuck and also replace the power cord and looking for the PDF of the manual to see the exploded view of how to take it apart.... you can PM me or post on my garage build thread... I just got it home so I sure a google search would help but the folks on this forum seem to know all the answers

 

[gilbo]

hows d resto coming on this, were you able to get the WT tag off, i used dremel to grind off the drive screw head, then the tag came off easy on the delta i am restoring

that allowed me to put the whole head in a electrolysis bath to derust it without worrying about damaging the paint on the tag

 

[Rust]

The drive screws can be carefully lifted out from the face side using a thin dull putty knife. Slightly tapping around the circumfrence. NOT a chisel because you may sheer it off. You want to save the drivescrews to put back. Grinding a slot will look like ****.
But you have to be careful not to damage the tag.
A little tape will help protect the tag.

 

[Rust]

I'm curious to what the tag on the side of the head is; perhaps a belt speed diagram?

 

[Hot Chop shop]

Oh yeah I ruined my tag... I tried several mild methods and then I went with a stronger agent and it took the overspray off so well that it took off the original paint too... I was really sad... Damn thing lasted for 50+ years then I get it ahold of it and destroy it...

 

[zkling]

I'm curious to what the tag on the side of the head is; perhaps a belt speed diagram?

Most likely it is/was a dealers or tool sellers badge.

 

[Rust]

Most likely it is/was a dealers or tool sellers badge.

I thought that too.
But sometimes you find that rare gem that walker-turner only produced for a short time.
If there is one thing I've learned about W/T, there are alot of variables.

 

[Rust]

Oh yeah I ruined my tag... I tried several mild methods and then I went with a stronger agent and it took the overspray off so well that it took off the original paint too... I was really sad... Damn thing lasted for 50+ years then I get it ahold of it and destroy it...

Dont sweat it. Press looks good.... and will drill holes the rest of your life.

I recently screwed up a tag too. It was brass etched. It had original paint and was covered in a thick filth. I 409'ed it. then I moved to brass polish. took the paint right off. Piss me off.

Luckily it was etched so the Info was still there.

 

[MAYOR28]

I'm curious to what the tag on the side of the head is; perhaps a belt speed diagram?

It has some specs from WT, but is pretty crusty with paint..... I was able to scrape some of the paint off without removing the tag paint. I'll try to snap a pic tonight.

Progress has been slow, I've been trying to find someone with a sand blaster to help me out..... No luck yet. Grinding or Chem stripping is a PIA. Would probably take less than an hour to blast all the parts, but the machine shops around here want $80 to turn their machines on.