Walker Turner drill press

[gimpyrobb]

I have what I believe to be an 1100 series dp. It was a gang press and the guy wanted the table, so currently it's just the head and the column. I like that it has the mt3 taper and the power feed, but the power feed idler shaft/pillow block/sheave is gone.

I am having trouble getting the head off the column. Do these not have slots in them with bolts to loosen?

 

[whateg01]

Yes looks like an 1100. I don't think they had split casting. Haven't had the head off of mine so not sure. I think it's a split cotter, though.

 

[Rick_Br]

The acorn head bolt near the column goes into a threaded hole on the other side of the head casting. It is an internal hole so you won't see the exposed bolt on the left side (facing the head). That bolt tightens a wedge section that locks the head on the column. If you loosen the bolt the head should spin on the column and slide off. The unknown is corrosion which may require a bit of penetrating fluid and some "persuasion"
Rick

 

[gimpyrobb]

The acorn head bolt near the column goes into a threaded hole on the other side of the head casting. It is an internal hole so you won't see the exposed bolt on the left side (facing the head). That bolt tightens a wedge section that locks the head on the column. If you loosen the bolt the head should spin on the column and slide off. The unknown is corrosion which may require a bit of penetrating fluid and some "persuasion"
Rick

Well that's weird, the acorn is snapped off. I was planning on putting something in like a helicoil, but not a helicoil.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Key locking thread insert! That's what I meant.

 

[larry_g]

Help raising WT power head?

I feel like an absolute idiot for not being able to figure this one out on my own. I've used a lot of PB blaster, wd40 and 3in1 on the base of the column where the power head is currently sitting. All the lubricants have run down the column so i know they are getting through. I have loosened the...

www.garagejournal.com

Read the above thread to see what the split cotter is.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Mine doesn't have that. That is where the crank/rack is to raise and lower the head. I'll be headed out to look closer here in a bit.

 

[gimpyrobb]

So I was mistaken about the acorn nut, it was the threaded area that holds the motor plate that was cracked. I pulled the nut and tapped the tapered washer(?) out.

 

[larry_g]

So I was mistaken about the acorn nut, it was the threaded area that holds the motor plate that was cracked. I pulled the nut and tapped the tapered washer(?) out.

That "tapered washer" is one half of the split cotter. The other half is in there. Did you read the thread I linked above???

 

[Rick_Br]

Is the crack you show in the pocket for securing the motor mount stud - it appears to be? Check pout my OWWM REBUILD THREAD - page 10 shows my broken pocket and solution.

Rick

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes I read the thread you linked to, no it's not like the one you posted, that one side is all there is as shown in the parts diagram...

 

[Rick_Br]

Not sure what you are referring to when you say "that one side is all there is" - let's step back an define what we are talking about/the problem is. I thought you were referring to the pocket that the motor mounting plate stud goes into. On mine there are two pockets - one on each side of the head. The pocket on the right (facing the head) has a drilled and tapped hole for a locking screw that holds the motor mounting plate in. On mine the pocket was broke at the screw hole on the right side.

Rick

 

[gimpyrobb]

I was replying to Larryg, not you Rick on the "one side is all there is".
You are correct on the motor mount, there is 2 studs that slide into the head. I appreciate the info on your fix but I believe I'm going to try a time cert. I have a kit already and my break out is no where near as severe as yours.
Here is an example of what I will be trying:

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[Rick_Br]

I was replying to Larryg, not you Rick on the "one side is all there is".
You are correct on the motor mount, there is 2 studs that slide into the head. I appreciate the info on your fix but I believe I'm going to try a time cert. I have a kit already and my break out is no where near as severe as yours.
Here is an example of what I will be trying:

Pardon Our Interruption

That seems like a reasonable approach based on your picture of the crack. I would have some concerns about the pocket holding with the set screw pressure and the potential of motor vibration. However, if it doesn't work you can easily move on to a different solution.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Well, without getting too far off topic, I purchased 2 drills. Worst case I can move everything over to the other head casting, but I'm going to see if I can make this one work.