Was this just for framing and can I remove it?

[volleyball]

The exterior side bracing has been mentioned more than once.
And no one can be sure the interior brace is doing nothing. You would have to be there and checked the building to know.

 

[BRIANBB]

I am just amazed you still have the masonite siding on there. Hardie board for the bottom strip. So far I have replaced two sides with Hardieboard. I missed out on the buyout from Masonite by one year. I could have had the whole house sided for a song.
I did plywood in my detached garage.

 

[Zeke]

That brace was used to rack the frame before the let-in brace was nailed off. I can see 4 nails so there are maybe one or two at the top. There should be 2 nails at every stud. It's a temporary brace never removed. And I find that sort of unusual because a lot of the time this lumber is used up during the final framing process like for the 2nd top plate or blocking which there is a conspicuous lack of..

 

[Moose97]

You have a let-in brace on the wall. The 2X4 brace isn't required. If this is a detached garage (as it appears to be) then there would be no fire rating requirement. I would personally put up osb to finish it out but sheetrock would work fine as well.

 

[Jazz]

If you cover the wall with sheathing you should be able to remove it. The sheets will give it later structure in place of the beam you are removing. It would like nice with some OSB and even better with some insulation.

 

[bczygan]

Attention OP!

You have now been given every possible answer to your original question.

Opinions have been stated, countered, restated and countered again.

You've gotten answers to questions that you never asked.

You have a myriad of suggestions for how to do things you stated that you wanted to do, as well as how to do things you didn't.

There is even a comedy response for your entertainment.

This is standard fare here on GJ.

Now, it's up to you to figure out what to do.

What will it be?

 

[72Anthony]

Are you north or south of I-10? You want to check the windstorm maps. If I recall, north of I-10 it is something like 110 mph design wind. As you get closer to the coast, the design wind speed increases, so you have to pay attention to proper windstorm design.

 

[Moose97]

Attention OP!

You have now been given every possible answer to your original question.

Opinions have been stated, countered, restated and countered again.

You've gotten answers to questions that you never asked.

You have a myriad of suggestions for how to do things you stated that you wanted to do, as well as how to do things you didn't.

There is even a comedy response for your entertainment.

This is standard fare here on GJ.

Now, it's up to you to figure out what to do.

What will it be?

Now that's funny!

 

[AnEv942]

Well Im no expert but I am puzzled that the surface mounted brace survived all these years if it was left on since built as old as garage 'appears'. My first thought was someone added. I at least wouldnt be depending on the exterior let in brace shown (jeesh could they have cut the slots any bigger) going across 5 studs unless there was one in opposite corner same wall. Exterior siding, what ever it is (the stuff showing daylight between it and studs) doesnt appear to be doing much either. OP mentioned building was attached to another.

Its not that the external one should be there-it shouldn't, but I dont see much else doing its job.

If it were mine, simply an opinion, needed or not, code or not, I would block/sister the overly large cut-in slots. Never know, might want to hang your anvil from one of those 2x2s.
I would add fire blocking-not so much for fire (though OP said adding wiring etc) but tying the studs together for a bit more rigidity. Though shear panel would accomplish.
Lastly I would add the metal strapping mentioned, simpler, or trace and let-in the existing surface mounted brace. Again shear panels would accomplish. Might be overkill-might take half a day...But if just sheet rocking thats what Id do.

But Im neither an expert/carpenter/framer and have never stayed at the Holiday Inn.

My only other suggestions might be using green board at least on bottom-not seeing a lot keeping water out. And definatly use screws, hammering on those walls, either what you just nailed or exterior sideing could be issue.

If, as some noted, sill is NOT attached to floor, I cant see it, rent a gun and shoot it into concrete or bore and epoxy a few bolts.

 

[bczygan]

Just a note.

I was just in the neighbors garage. Someone broke in and left the door open and I went over and closed it. It's a 2 car of 1940's vintage. It has the very same exterior braces. This was how it was done then. Adequate. The garage roof is swayback, but that is because of not enough ceiling joists to tie the side walls together.

It does look like the ones on this garage had the studs notched excessively for them. The OP should check how well the diagonal braces are attached to each stud. We will all probably be wondering on our deathbeds ( I know I will) whether the inside brace was to make up for inadequate outside bracing, or was just something left after construction.
In either case, the OP has solutions that will allow him to avoid complete demolition and rebuilding.
Just to throw it in, I'm voting for sheathing the inside walls with diamond plate!

 

[Chuck]

...
3: Finish your walls with plywood (or OSB if you're a cheapskate), 1/2" minimum, do it in sections and remove the diagonals only after some of the plywoood is in place...

What he said.

Actually, odds are the one you see just under the siding is intended to be the permanent brace, and the one in your way was probably meant to be temporary. However, BFBOB's solution will not only be safe, it will actually substantially increase the overall strength of your wall.

As for receptacles, I have run both ways myself, and prefer surface mounted in conduit. I change my wiring around more than the usual person, though.

tarmstrong, Houston is in one of the lowest seismic areas of the country, and has about 1/20 the potential seismic force your area does. I'd worry more about wind, which still won't be 1/5 of what you see for seismic force there.

Hey Kev - I was going to ask someone more in-the-know than myself if sheetrock (especially if glued in addition to screws) would provide some shear value...

In short, yes. It's lower than plywood, but it's there. I don't have my tables handy, but figure somewhere around 1/4 of what you might get out of 3/8" plywood.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Just an observation, and anyone can take it with a grain of salt. I just find it funny that this garage is going to be so darn crooked if he removes it, yet there is one at a slightly different angle just 3 1/2" away.

45+ years in construction and I'm have a chuckle at this too.
Takes all kinds aye Kev..
Poor guy is probably now paranoid about even going into the shed as it might implode on him.

 

[raddksn]

Those diagonals are part of the building structure. They prevent the wall from racking, something that your horizontal siding boards won't do. They must be there, but there are three ways you can deal with them.
1: nail furring strips to all the studs, bringing your surface for drywall attachment out flush.
2: inset the diagonal. Nail on a temporary diagonal, mark the position of the current one, remove it, notch the studs to inset it flush with the stud surfaces, replace, remove the temporary.
3: Finish your walls with plywood (or OSB if you're a cheapskate), 1/2" minimum, do it in sections and remove the diagonals only after some of the plywoood is in place.

I think 3 is the best option because it solves your structural problem AND gives you a dramatically stronger wall surface. Plywood looks good painted, and you could even mud/tape the joints (I wouldn't). OSB looks pretty bad to me even painted, but that's a matter of opinion.

That's some good advice (great minds think alike)!