Water filled tractor tires
- Thread starter gregs
- Start date
Supa Dexta
Active member
I bought another 55 gallon drum of washer fluid today to fill a tire that leaked out, when the valve stem broke. Kind if a pain, but I need the weight.
Zeke
Well-known member
There is a lot of debate.
landry
Well-known member
Slightly off topic, I thought “antifreeze” now sold in the USA had the something really bitter-tasting added to keep kids/animals from being attracted to the sweet taste. Vaguely remember reading about it 10 or so years back?
racecougar
Well-known member
Bitrex (denatonium benzoate).
captaindiode
Well-known member
I was going to recommend propylene glycol as it is non-toxic and WAS affordable. In 2020 I paid $43 per 5 gallon bucket. I just checked and it is now $158 per 5 gallons. Talk about inflation. It is used in chillers, water stoves, etc. I used 10 gallons in each rear tire and then filled with the rest with water. In a 13.8 x 28 tire it is good down to 8 degrees.
Supa Dexta
Active member
I can get washer fluid for .73c / L up here in Canada if buying bulk.
Ed in Virginia
Well-known member
I've used CaCL in my Ford 8N and 3000. I use windshield washer fluid in my modern loader tractor's rear tires (came from the dealer with it). I've always needed loaded rear tires because I do tillage work and need the extra traction. I also like the counterweighting of it on my loader tractor. Depending on usage, you may require more flotation vs. traction and may not want to load your rear tires. Even with loaded rears, I add rear counterweighting by attaching an implement (typically a box or grader blade) on the 3-point. Here's a photo of a rear wheel being restored after having the tube leak CaCL on the wheel over time:
I've never needed to load my front tires or use weights on the front wheels, but other operators have done both in the past.
I've never needed to load my front tires or use weights on the front wheels, but other operators have done both in the past.
Shovelhead
Well-known member
No liquid ballast in the tires of either of my tractors.
Seen it before, someone thinks because their tires are loaded on their compact tractor, it turns into a hunnerd horse CAT wheel loader.
I’ve operated a lot of machinery in my time and ain’t claiming to be an expert, especially for someone else’s machine and it’s intended work, but some very basic info.
You may know all this, but, things can go south very quickly when your machine isn’t set up to handle a given task.
1) know the lifting capability of your machine, and that will be considered with proper ballast.
2) ALWAYS have some amount of rear weight on your 3 point when you use your loader. The weak link in those compact tractors is the front axle. No rear weight = more stress on the front axles.
3) Don’t think just because the loader will pick it up yer good.
Picking up a substantial load 12” off the ground and moving that load across, around yer property are two totally different things.
4) If you have to guess, or just try it, to see if your machine will handle a certain task,
get a bigger tractor.
Seen it before, someone thinks because their tires are loaded on their compact tractor, it turns into a hunnerd horse CAT wheel loader.
I’ve operated a lot of machinery in my time and ain’t claiming to be an expert, especially for someone else’s machine and it’s intended work, but some very basic info.
You may know all this, but, things can go south very quickly when your machine isn’t set up to handle a given task.
1) know the lifting capability of your machine, and that will be considered with proper ballast.
2) ALWAYS have some amount of rear weight on your 3 point when you use your loader. The weak link in those compact tractors is the front axle. No rear weight = more stress on the front axles.
3) Don’t think just because the loader will pick it up yer good.
Picking up a substantial load 12” off the ground and moving that load across, around yer property are two totally different things.
4) If you have to guess, or just try it, to see if your machine will handle a certain task,
get a bigger tractor.
RAYJAY
Well-known member
or reg antifreeze the old timers did it that way ... the new one is beet juice.. aka rim guard its heaver than reg water and non corrosive.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
Front tires don't get filled. Only the rears for counter weight
Not always true, it depends on what you are doing, sometimes both ends need to have extra weight for different uses. I just took delivery of a new tractor a couple weeks back, I had both the front and rear tires filled with beet juice (at the cost of ~$4,000!). Reason for this is, when I have a 300 gallon spray tank on the rear links, I want the front end to stay down. Can't use the front weight bar with the loader framework, so iron weights are out for this application.
Rears are filled because when I want to pick up large square hay bales, 2 or 3 high, I want the rear to stay planted firmly on the ground. May still need an additional counter weight on the rear lift links, haven't tried it just yet.
However as to only filling one tire on each end of the machine, never seen an application where that would be useful. Seems to me that it could be more dangerous as a rollover hazard due to more weight on one side if the front or rear axle does happen to go up in the air.
As stated, depends on the use case. I’ve got a Kubota L-3800 4x4. Our property is 80ac - 90% wooded, and not much of it is flat ground. I’m always working on some slope it seems. I mow about 5ac of it and a couple spots are 25-30* side slope.
I’ve got the rear wheels set to wide position, 5” wheel spacers on each side, 3 sets of wheel weights in each rear wheel, rear tires filled, front tires filled, and a homemade front “bumper / skid plate” that added another 100#.
All of that was incremental improvements to gain better stability and control and keep the tractor planted to the ground on the slopes.
BTW - if working side slopes, the best place for the front end loader is in the barn, NOT on the tractor. Too much weight, too high on the tractor. Throws the center of gravity way off.
I’ve got the rear wheels set to wide position, 5” wheel spacers on each side, 3 sets of wheel weights in each rear wheel, rear tires filled, front tires filled, and a homemade front “bumper / skid plate” that added another 100#.
All of that was incremental improvements to gain better stability and control and keep the tractor planted to the ground on the slopes.
BTW - if working side slopes, the best place for the front end loader is in the barn, NOT on the tractor. Too much weight, too high on the tractor. Throws the center of gravity way off.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Wow, ballast in tires is the preferred solution to tractor weighting as it lowers the center of gravity significantly lessening the chance of rolling a tractor over and reduces the stress on the tractor compared to other ballasting methods as the weight is not carried by the axles and frame of the tractor.
I have seen an older tractor rolled in a flat field when the rear tire hit a ground hog hole while mowing. Luckily the operator was thrown clear of the tractor(no ROPS or seat belt) when it rolled and only broke his legs due to the lousy landing. The rear tire that hit the hole was ballasted but the opposite one had a punctured tube the day before. They replaced the tube but in the in rear tire but did not refill the ballast in the essences of saving time.
Many two wheel drive tractors are ballasted in the rear, and most 4x4 tractors are all four tires.
Also, Washer fluid is NOT the standard ballast liquid by a long shot. That is calcium cloride and Rimguard(beet juice) running a close second. No commercial tire shop will put washer fluid in that I know.
Water is not desirable either as it freezes.
I have seen an older tractor rolled in a flat field when the rear tire hit a ground hog hole while mowing. Luckily the operator was thrown clear of the tractor(no ROPS or seat belt) when it rolled and only broke his legs due to the lousy landing. The rear tire that hit the hole was ballasted but the opposite one had a punctured tube the day before. They replaced the tube but in the in rear tire but did not refill the ballast in the essences of saving time.
Many two wheel drive tractors are ballasted in the rear, and most 4x4 tractors are all four tires.
Also, Washer fluid is NOT the standard ballast liquid by a long shot. That is calcium cloride and Rimguard(beet juice) running a close second. No commercial tire shop will put washer fluid in that I know.
Water is not desirable either as it freezes.
My tractor dealer fills tires with washer fluid
Firebrick43
Well-known member
What dealer is that so I don't ever use them?
Ed in Virginia
Well-known member
My new Massey-Ferguson came from Beverage Tractor in Stuarts Draft, VA with windshield washer fluid in the rear tires. I assume they use it to reduce costs. No, it's not as heavy as CaCL or beet juice, but better than nothing. If I ever get an opportunity to replace it, I will but I've been good with it for a while now.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
My dealer never does. Sales guy probably lied so he didn't have to amend the deal we made which was a pita with kubota finance.
My John Deere CUT manual requires a COMBINATION of at least TWO of three ballast options when using a loader.
Rear weight on the 3-point and loaded rear tires or iron wheel weights.
I believe it said the combined weight should be over 700lb but I didn't take the time to look it up and it's been a couple of years since I last read it.
The weight is intended to keep the center of gravity low and balanced for SAFE loader operation. Yes, it improves traction but more important to me is that it is more stable and much less likely to roll over. I have a son who has spent many hours operating that tractor on all kinds of terrain. He's careful but if a little washer fluid or whatever in the tires makes it safer, I'll do it.
My tire shop uses a methanol mixture. I asked about rimguard but they are not dealers and don't have it. I don't remember the manufacturer, but they filled the rears with the methanol mix and it's been great.
Rear weight on the 3-point and loaded rear tires or iron wheel weights.
I believe it said the combined weight should be over 700lb but I didn't take the time to look it up and it's been a couple of years since I last read it.
The weight is intended to keep the center of gravity low and balanced for SAFE loader operation. Yes, it improves traction but more important to me is that it is more stable and much less likely to roll over. I have a son who has spent many hours operating that tractor on all kinds of terrain. He's careful but if a little washer fluid or whatever in the tires makes it safer, I'll do it.
My tire shop uses a methanol mixture. I asked about rimguard but they are not dealers and don't have it. I don't remember the manufacturer, but they filled the rears with the methanol mix and it's been great.
finn
Well-known member
RimGuard in all four wheels seems to be part of the deal and initial prep prior to delivery at my Kioti dealer, but I always install the box blade for anything but casual loader work.
The cost of RimGuard is a trivial portion of a new tractor purchase, all things considered.
The cost of RimGuard is a trivial portion of a new tractor purchase, all things considered.
I've got rimguard on the rear of my 35hp CUT.
I also have a heavy box blade on it. I can still bounce the rear end with a heavy load on the bucket (1900lbs cap at 6' IIRC)
When I first bought the tractor I had an old hot water tank welded to a 3 point mount that I had filled with rocks. Honestly that felt planted, but the box blade gets used too often.
I also have a heavy box blade on it. I can still bounce the rear end with a heavy load on the bucket (1900lbs cap at 6' IIRC)
When I first bought the tractor I had an old hot water tank welded to a 3 point mount that I had filled with rocks. Honestly that felt planted, but the box blade gets used too often.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
No. Super weird. I will say filling the fronts is pretty stupid, really. That is absolutely the least of your worries.
csp
Well-known member
Huh? You don't even want to consider that there are all sorts of different sized tractors out there being used, even within a given size category?
My smallest, at 30hp, will pick up 400 safely and I have nothing for ballast on that one other than whatever attachment might be on three point at any given time.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
They probably removed the tires at some point and then didn't get around to refilling them.
I wasn't envisioning this going off the rails when I posted my question. Since this is a new to me tractor I have no idea of why or what. My plan is to remove the liquid in the one front tire as I see no benefit for what I am planning. And will be adding some type of liquid ballast to the other rear tire to even things out and deal with any potential issues using the loader. If for some reason its not enough, I will figure out something to add to the rear lift. Thanks for all the help
I cleaned this up as best I could. If you can't make your opinion heard without bagging on someone else's, please go find another forum. Thanks!
going off the rails? I thought this thread had a ton of good info posted. yeah, there were one or two "you (or your dealer) don't know jack" but overall had good info. the pic of that wheel rotted out from CaCl being patch-welded? personally I would have thrown it out and bought new, but I suspect there are good reasons for keeping it.
Ed in Virginia
Well-known member
That was for the restoration of an old N Ford - hard to find original hat rims these days and the owner wanted to restore it exactly as it came from the factory and keep as many original parts as possible. It was going to be a trailer queen when done, and not used for real work.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
No, its actually easier on the drivetrain than wheel weights.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
Think about that for a moment.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
csp
Well-known member
Thus my inclusion of the word "safely". Mine will lift over 650 with nothing on the back. That doesn't mean I'd try to move that much very far with no ballast.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
Mainiac Mat
Well-known member
I've used Evaporust several times, and it's nothing like the stuff they filled my tires with. It's very viscous and the loaded tires are now ~400 lbs. each.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
You haven't seen the red juice that comes from beets?
Had dealer put anti freeze in rear tires of the Simplicity tractor I bought back in mid-2000.
I agree...U MUST ensure that the valve is at the TOP....12:00 position before adding air, and also to
put a little air in it before checking pressure, or you will ruin your air pressure gage!!
I agree...U MUST ensure that the valve is at the TOP....12:00 position before adding air, and also to
put a little air in it before checking pressure, or you will ruin your air pressure gage!!
Methanol isnt great on rubber, plus flammable.
Calcium chloride, beet juice, PG antifreeze are better choices.