Water pressure

[bluedog225]

What water pressure would you guys recommend? I finally got around to picking up a gauge and I’m at 110 psi. I’ve got some regulators around here somewhere. I plan to leave it full pressure at the hose bib that intercepts the line before it gets to the shop. But would like something more manageable for the bathroom etc.

Thanks

 

[larry4406]

At the day job, the pressure regulators are typically set at around 50 psi by the factory.

My well tank I have the points set for 50-70 psi. 50 psi turns on, 70 shuts off.

Irrigation equipment (inground sprinklers) often are connected upstream of the regulator.

 

[bluedog225]

At the day job, the pressure regulators are typically set at around 50 psi by the factory.

My well tank I have the points set for 50-70 psi. 50 psi turns on, 70 shuts off.

Irrigation equipment (inground sprinklers) often are connected upstream of the regulator.

Great. Thanks

 

[Overboost44]

Tagging on to this, not derail it. I hope you don't mind. If pressure is at say 42-45, is it safe to add pressure with an air compressor? I accidentally open the valve and let air out. Did not want to call a plumber if it is that easy.

 

[micromind]

Is it city or well water.

In either case, a change in elevation will change the water pressure. 2.31' (27 3/4") per PSI.

Pressure is not set by adding or releasing air, it is set by either a regulator or by the pressure switch setting for a well pump.

I like about 60 PSI at the faucet.

 

[larry4406]

Tagging on to this, not derail it. I hope you don't mind. If pressure is at say 42-45, is it safe to add pressure with an air compressor? I accidentally open the valve and let air out. Did not want to call a plumber if it is that easy.

Are you on a well with a bladder tank?

If so, drain the water system down completely. Then add air to the Schrader valve on top of the tank. Stop when the tank air pressure is 2-3 psi below the pressure switch cut-in value.

So for example, if your pressure switch is set for a typical 40-60 psi swing, you set your tank pressure with system empty to 37-38 psi. Some pressure switches are set 30-50 psi swing, so then the tank pressure would be set to 27-28 psi.

Don't know what your pressure switch settings are? Typically there is a pressure gauge adjacent the switch. Watch it as you have a random faucet running so you can hear the pressure switch click and watch the pressure rise on startup and the click when it shuts off. Record these off/on values. Then adjust accordingly.

Pressure switches on well tanks are adjustable. I changed mine to 50-70 psi and set the bladder to 48 psi.

 

[Overboost44]

Are you on a well with a bladder tank?

If so, drain the water system down completely. Then add air to the Schrader valve on top of the tank. Stop when the tank air pressure is 2-3 psi below the pressure switch cut-in value.

So for example, if your pressure switch is set for a typical 40-60 psi swing, you set your tank pressure with system empty to 37-38 psi. Some pressure switches are set 30-50 psi swing, so then the tank pressure would be set to 27-28 psi.

Don't know what your pressure switch settings are? Typically there is a pressure gauge adjacent the switch. Watch it as you have a random faucet running so you can hear the pressure switch click and watch the pressure rise on startup and the click when it shuts off. Record these off/on values. Then adjust accordingly.

Pressure switches on well tanks are adjustable. I changed mine to 50-70 psi and set the bladder to 48 psi.

Thanks @larry4406 That is excellent knowledge to have. I am on a well with a tank. I just notice that the pressure in the house is not quite the same since I relieved it of some air pressure. I purchased a nice garden hose https://hydrotechproducts.com/collections/proseries-hoses (the pro model which is 3/4") and I don't have the pressure to make it work, so I had to get the 5/8" version.

 

[larry4406]

Thanks @larry4406 That is excellent knowledge to have. I am on a well with a tank. I just notice that the pressure in the house is not quite the same since I relieved it of some air pressure. I purchased a nice garden hose https://hydrotechproducts.com/collections/proseries-hoses (the pro model which is 3/4") and I don't have the pressure to make it work, so I had to get the 5/8" version.

Glad to help.

If you have a water filter on your well system, consider plumbing your hose bibs upstream of the filter. The bibs will have better pressure and your filter will last longer during the months that the hoses are used. I did this at my house.

 

[Overboost44]

Glad to help.

If you have a water filter on your well system, consider plumbing your hose bibs upstream of the filter. The bibs will have better pressure and your filter will last longer during the months that the hoses are used. I did this at my house.

I have a water softener system but I can turn some valves and bypass it for the hose bibs. Everything is piped through the softener system unfortunately. I have thought about re-plumbing a bunch of things with pex and I could go the route you suggested. Another good tip for which I thank you. I want to put in a manifold where I can easily shut off water as needed.

 

[kbeefy]

Tagging on to this, not derail it. I hope you don't mind. If pressure is at say 42-45, is it safe to add pressure with an air compressor? I accidentally open the valve and let air out. Did not want to call a plumber if it is that easy.

I am on a well with a tank. I just notice that the pressure in the house is not quite the same since I relieved it of some air pressure. I purchased a nice garden hose https://hydrotechproducts.com/collections/proseries-hoses (the pro model which is 3/4") and I don't have the pressure to make it work, so I had to get the 5/8" version.

Just draining the tank and letting the pump re-pressurize it will get the bladder functioning as it should. That doesn't improve your water pressure though, it just lengthens the time between pump cycling. The pump will still shut off at whatever the water pressure switch is set for.

 

[kbeefy]

What water pressure would you guys recommend? I finally got around to picking up a gauge and I’m at 110 psi. I’ve got some regulators around here somewhere. I plan to leave it full pressure at the hose bib that intercepts the line before it gets to the shop. But would like something more manageable for the bathroom etc.

Thanks

I think most systems are 40-60psi or 50-70psi. 110psi is pretty impressive. I'd like to see a sprinkler running 110.

 

[dcg9381]

What water pressure would you guys recommend? I finally got around to picking up a gauge and I’m at 110 psi. I’ve got some regulators around here somewhere. I plan to leave it full pressure at the hose bib that intercepts the line before it gets to the shop. But would like something more manageable for the bathroom etc.

Thanks

110 seriously?
What's the source? That matters. A 110 psi pump is a beast. 110 at the city is just under the water tower. Maybe....

60-70 max. Most ppl are 40-50 psi.

Show us the design and we'll help.

 

[PopcornSutton]

I would not run 110 pounds of water, never heard of a faucet/hose bib, let alone a hose rated for it. My pressure switch is a 30-50, highest I would go is 40-60. Want more, get a pressure washer.

 

[larry4406]

I have a water softener system but I can turn some valves and bypass it for the hose bibs. Everything is piped through the softener system unfortunately. I have thought about re-plumbing a bunch of things with pex and I could go the route you suggested. Another good tip for which I thank you. I want to put in a manifold where I can easily shut off water as needed.

A community I finished construction on last year had insane municipal water pressure right at 100 psi. The homes have large lots that we hydroseeded. I cranked the pressure regulator all the way up to net the main's pressure. The yard sprinklers were impressive!

Prior to settlement, I dialed the regulators back to 50 psi.

 

[larry4406]

I have a water softener system but I can turn some valves and bypass it for the hose bibs. Everything is piped through the softener system unfortunately. I have thought about re-plumbing a bunch of things with pex and I could go the route you suggested. Another good tip for which I thank you. I want to put in a manifold where I can easily shut off water as needed.

You might want to consider connecting the hose bibs upstream of the softener. Especially if you water your yard and/or garden.

Also, if you have a septic system, its not recommended to discharge the brine wash into it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I had an issue with several pipes bursting in my house. At first the plumber thought it was a bad batch of fittings on the ½” hot water return line. Then it happened again so I put a guage on it and I was getting over 100 psi. Full street pressure, and I’m a few hundred feet down hill of the city’s supply tank. I tried adjusting the PRV valve no luck. Turns out it was bad. They tend to go out every 15-20 years if the internal diaphragms are not replaced. Replaced it and got it down to 35 psi which is ideal for most home systems. Also check that your hot water expansion tank is properly charged with the correct psi or you will get pressure spikes as well. Most residential plumbing fixtures etc is rated for 50-60 psi max. Too much causes cavitation in the pipes especially at joints / fittings which is exactly where mine were failing.

 

[mike93lx]

My county water is in the 100-110 range as well and somehow, all the valves in the house survived 20 years.

I put in a PRV and have it dropping to 60ish now

If you don't already have one, you will need to add an expansion tank on your water heater when you put in a prv

 

[jmiller_2308]

110 psi??? THAR SHE BLOWS!

No really, residential fixtures and sprinkler systems are not designed to handle that kind of pressure. I'd go with the recommendations everybody is talking about: 50 to max 70 psi.

 

[bluedog225]

110 seriously?
What's the source? That matters. A 110 psi pump is a beast. 110 at the city is just under the water tower. Maybe....

60-70 max. Most ppl are 40-50 psi.

Show us the design and we'll help.

Yeah. It’s “city” water. Some downhill. And they run it high for whatever reason.

The final specs are attached. I can take a 100’ 5/8” hose up to the 30’ roof and hose it down with good pressure.

Thinking I might need them one day, I picked up 4 nice German water pressure regulators at restore. Just need to put in a larger vault and replumb the supply line before I tackle the interior plumbing. One of my lease favorite jobs but I did fill the existing vault hole with nice sand.

For years, my water supply line was 1000’ of craftsman hose. The good old kind. Worked great. But I did turn it off when not in residence.

 

[bluedog225]

My county water is in the 100-110 range as well and somehow, all the valves in the house survived 20 years.

I put in a PRV and have it dropping to 60ish now

If you don't already have one, you will need to add an expansion tank on your water heater when you put in a prv

Will I need one if I regulate the pressure down? I’m not familiar with using expansion tanks. Seems like it would be “regular” city supply once it’s down to 50 psi. No?

 

[mike93lx]

Will I need one if I regulate the pressure down? I’m not familiar with using expansion tanks. Seems like it would be “regular” city supply once it’s down to 50 psi. No?

The tank has nothing to do with water pressure. Its to allow expansion as your water heater heats and cools since the PRV is a one way valve and will now prevent the county water system from absorbing the expansion pressure.

You need one because of the PRV, regardless of what the incoming or setpoint pressures are

 

[bluedog225]

The tank has nothing to do with water pressure. Its to allow expansion as your water heater heats and cools since the PRV is a one way valve and will now prevent the county water system from absorbing the expansion pressure.

You need one because of the PRV, regardless of what the incoming or setpoint pressures are

That makes sense. Thanks.

 

[DrinkMan]

Our primary residence is plumbed like many where the front hose bib is direct city water pressure upstream of the PRV for the house. City pressure is about 80 psi and our PRV is set for 60 psi for the rest of the house.

Our cabin with well pump is 40 on, 60 off set points. Filtration system dropped about 5 psi with a few faucets running max during testing. Once it exceeds 20 psi drop, we replace filters.

Our coastal island house is on the municipal water system and it is 60 psi and none of the houses have PRVs. I was surprised when I could not find it and when I discussed it with a plumber, he told me that they don't use PRVs on the island (over 10,000 homes). But everything about the house down there is different from what I'm used to and I'm always learning about all the differences (hurricane windows and doors, flood zone rules for lower level, outside HVAC units on 6 foot platforms, etc...).

 

[Sumboodie]

You might want to consider connecting the hose bibs upstream of the softener. Especially if you water your yard and/or garden.

Also, if you have a septic system, its not recommended to discharge the brine wash into it.

Where else would it drain?

 

[dcg9381]

I’m not familiar with using expansion tanks.

They need to be adjusted to your water pressure, typically a few pounds below (you just let air out of the valve)

 

[larry4406]

Where else would it drain?

Drywell

 

[Overboost44]

You might want to consider connecting the hose bibs upstream of the softener. Especially if you water your yard and/or garden.

Also, if you have a septic system, its not recommended to discharge the brine wash into it.

We just had city septic installed recently as the septic tanks on the southern part of the island were failing at an alarming rate. I am right about sea level. Now, I can have my system discharge into the city system.

 

[jubilee]

We have 110 - 120 psi water pressure. City supplied.
35 years. No problems, ever.

 

[JohnX14]

I had 110 psi at my last house. I built it, in 1995. I loved the 110 psi......until a number of faucets and valves failed. I finally put in a pressure reducer to get it down to 80 psi. Don't run 110 psi for long term.

 

[mike93lx]

We have 110 - 120 psi water pressure. City supplied.
35 years. No problems, ever.

You're lucky

 

[Sumboodie]

Drywell

Would freeze I'd image?

Softeners are very common here, they all drain into septic that I've seen.
Mine used maybe 200lbs of salt a year.

 

[larry4406]

Would freeze I'd image?

Softeners are very common here, they all drain into septic that I've seen.
Mine used maybe 200lbs of salt a year.

Go for it then if you want.

Many doing the wrong thing because it’s easy and are ill informed does not make it right.

Its only your private waste water facility you are endangering by dumping softener brine down it. When your system fails, then what is your option?

Does your septic system freeze? No. Why then would a proper drywall exclusive for the brine freeze?

OP - sorry for thread detail.

 

[Sumboodie]

Go for it then if you want.

Many doing the wrong thing because it’s easy and are ill informed does not make it right.

Its only your private waste water facility you are endangering by dumping softener brine down it. When your system fails, then what is your option?

Does your septic system freeze? No. Why then would a proper drywall exclusive for the brine freeze?

OP - sorry for thread detail.

It doesn't freeze because fermenting poop is warm.

When it fails, replace it. Had no issues in the ~15 years at my old place.
Softener ran maybe once a month.

 

[mike93lx]

Go for it then if you want.

Many doing the wrong thing because it’s easy and are ill informed does not make it right.

Its only your private waste water facility you are endangering by dumping softener brine down it. When your system fails, then what is your option?

Does your septic system freeze? No. Why then would a proper drywall exclusive for the brine freeze?

OP - sorry for thread detail.

Geez Larry. Just replace your $30k system when it fails. What's the big deal?

 

[mm08822]

Geez Larry. Just replace your $30k system when it fails. What's the big deal?

I've heard of some in the $40-50k range......pre-covid!

 

[larry4406]

It doesn't freeze because fermenting poop is warm.

When it fails, replace it. Had no issues in the ~15 years at my old place.
Softener ran maybe once a month.

Man throws all caution to the wind and lives to tell about it. Encourages others to follow his path. I suggest you call your local health department and see what they suggest regarding your dumping of softener brine into the system. You being in Alaska, there might not be any oversight.

Geez Larry. Just replace your $30k system when it fails. What's the big deal?

I've heard of some in the $40-50k range......pre-covid!

Replacing a failed septic system means a new field.

A new field location is a different piece of ground.

If your parcel is small, you might not have sufficient space for a relocation. So without a place to put a new field, and a failed field, you can't properly dispose of waste water. So what next, just run the sewage out on the open ground and wait for someone to notice? Contaminate yours and your neighbors well? Condemn the house?

I am out.