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Weaver WA-72 Jack Repair & Resto

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vertguy

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The weather is finally nice enough to paint outside, so I spent several hours yesterday prepping and finally getting some color applied. I still have a couple parts to shoot today including the wheels, but that should go quick.
 

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vertguy

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Pretty much done... still need to do some tweaks to ram cover for final fitment, but nice to see a 50 year old jack get resurrected.
 

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bgarrett

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This is a Great thread! I got a WA-72 today. My date code is 2DE121. When was it made?
There is a PVC sleeve on my handle and when I take it off, the button on the handle pops up and the handle falls down. Whats the fix? Thanks!
 

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bruejones1

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How do you get to the release o-rings to replace them. All I can see on mine is a brass washer thing in the hole and I cant remove it. update!the brass housing was stuck and got it out to put in the 2 orings!
 

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vertguy

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This is a Great thread! I got a WA-72 today. My date code is 2DE121. When was it made?
There is a PVC sleeve on my handle and when I take it off, the button on the handle pops up and the handle falls down. Whats the fix? Thanks!

You will need to call a place like Castle Equipment to decode the date. They are also a great resource for parts. If I understand your other question correctly, you are referring to the lock rod assembly in the handle... and to hold the handle up, you simply depress the rod into one of the holes on the frame and gravity should hold the handle along with keeping the rod in that locking hole. Then you lift slightly on the handle and rod pops up/releases. It is a unique design and I wondered the same thing as mine had tape wrapped over the rod to hold it down.

How do you get to the release o-rings to replace them. All I can see on mine is a brass washer thing in the hole and I cant remove it.

Which O-rings??
 

bruejones1

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Apr 9, 2016
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I got my jack all put together but when I try to pump it up it goes up a little and comes right back down. I checked the needle valve on the release and adjusted it correctly and no jack oil is leaking anywhere. Any ideas guys?
 
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tym

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It could be air-bound, especially if it feels spongy when the ram is extended. Try pumping the handle with a lot (20+) quick strokes and see if it gets better--or if fluid starts leaking somewhere.

If that doesn't work, maybe there's an air leak somewhere?
 

Griff93

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Thanks for posting all of this. I have one of these I really should go through one day and get working. Right now it's just taking up storage space.
 

bgarrett

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This is a Great thread! I got a WA-72 today. My date code is 2DE121. When was it made?
!

Castle emailed me today (on a Saturday!) and said my serial number is 1952
Thanks to Moondoggy for the email address.
 

bruejones1

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I did the air bleed procedure and saddle still pumps up on the downstroke and falls back down on the upstroke. Maybe something with the check balls? I put in the small one then the ball weight thing and then the big ball and put on the cap with a new gasket (steel ring).
 

Hiball

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I did the air bleed procedure and saddle still pumps up on the downstroke and falls back down on the upstroke. Maybe something with the check balls? I put in the small one then the ball weight thing and then the big ball and put on the cap with a new gasket (steel ring).

It definitely sounds like a valve issue, I would pull the valve components and double check the components, looking for my trash in the valve, make sure the weight is squared inside bore and not hung up crooked etc... Is the weight Oem and not something someone added as a replacement and it's not allowing the upper ball to seat? Try removing the weight and see if the Jack operates? The weight only aids in seating the lower ball during the transfer.
 

bruejones1

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I still won't raise so I just parked it in the corner of my shop and I bought a different jack...I will look into the Weaver later...I suspect the release valve is the culprit though!
 

pelletman

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Ok... It is amazing how a couple days away from a project along with some good feedback can do to help solve a problem. I had confirmed earlier the pump plunger moved freely in the cylinder without any binding, so it had to be something with the cup and or packings.

I removed the pump plunger and wanted to ensure there was no cup bulging issues from over tightening. So I used a punch to crush a couple stud mounting bolt threads so I could tighten the nut without over torquing the cup.

Then I only hand tightened the packing nut. I saw an immediate difference with the pump pedal as it was returning normally (still not fully, but a new spring and lube on the pump pedal mechanics will help that issue). I also cranked down on the tank again and I am fairly sure that leak was addressed as well. I still need to test with a vehicle, but I am very satisfied with the results. Now I can start the fun stripping process for paint. Think I may look for a used sand blaster.

Thanks again HiBall!!! :rocker:

Here's a picture of the pump plunger cup:
Pump%20plunger%20001_zpsc3qebpqa.jpg


And the replacement return spring from McMaster. They came in package of 5 and matched all the specs (wire size and OD), but I cut it to length. The old one is on top.

return%20spring%202_zps2zymrg7s.jpg


return%20spring_zpsmveljjec.jpg

You wanna sell a couple of those springs?
 
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