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Weed Killer....

smokey0810

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Canyon, Texas
Was wondering what kind of weed killers you all use. Here in west TX, we've gotten a decent amount of rain, so they are coming up like...well, weeds.
I've done the roundup **** before, but I need something both LEGAL and POWERFUL to rid my yard of the bastards. I know there are some kick-**** ones you need a license to get, just looking for something basic
Thanks in advance.
 
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aafadca

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western nc/northern va
Walmart sells their brand called Eliminator. It has the same active ingediant as Roundup but MUCH higher percentage. I think 41% vs 12 or 18 for Roundup. Its also cheaper. It seems kind of slow at first but then everything starts to turn brown and it's DEAD!
R
 

wvrailroader

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Crossbow or better yet, a mix of Roundup and Crossbow. Get it in the concentrated form at Southern States or the like and mix it yourself. Crossbow doesn't require a license to buy and when mixed with Roundup, will kill pretty much any type of weed. We use it at work and it kills weeds within a week and they don't come back.
 

Gizmosity

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Pickling vinegar (7% acetic acid) in very effective and safe. Put it straight into a sprayer and use it like you would use roundup. It costs about $2.00 a gallon.

+1

Bought a couple gallons at the grocery store just to see if it worked. Weeds coming through all the joints in my concert driveway and shop pad. Put it in a spray bottle and applied it like normal. 2 days later it's all dead and I only went through a half a gallon so $1.
 
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Pluribus

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Pickling vinegar (7% acetic acid) in very effective and safe. Put it straight into a sprayer and use it like you would use roundup. It costs about $2.00 a gallon.

+1

Bought a couple gallons at the grocery store just to see if it worked. Weeds coming through all the joints in my concert driveway and shop pad. Put it in a spray bottle and applied it like normal. 2 days later it's all dead and I only went through a half a gallon so $1.

If you have a farm supply store close by you can get the 20% stuff, which is way more effective. I tried the 5% stuff from Costco, and it didn't work, so this is the next step. The 20% acetic acid vinegar comes in a 5 gallon container, and it runs about $50. I add a little salt and a little dish soap for surfactant. Protect your skin and eyes while handling it, as you can really hurt your eyes with the stuff!
 

e30bradley

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Larry g, I know all about that hahaha unfortunately that stuff can't be discussed on Gj. To the op, use something that isn't toxic.. I kno there are many solutions to your weed problem that don't involve nasty chemicles that will polite your land
 

zoomzoomjeff

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No, just weeds...
2-4-D is quite effective at weeds, while preserving grass. (of course test in a section first) It's been around forever, and the 100% pure undiluted stuff is cheap/gallon. If you buy a gallon of 100%, you'll only need about 1-2 ozs. per gallon of water. That will produce a mix on the strong side too.

Not sure where in TX you're located, but around here we can get it at the local CO-OP that sells chemicals for all the spraying that's being done right now.

My dad runs an agra-chem business, he gave me some, and told me that I would NOT need a license to buy some from the CO-OP at the next town over if I needed more. I don't know if that varies by state. Least you can do is ask.

With 2-4-D, just make sure your're spraying nozzle is set for larger droplet size, and use low pressure to avoid ANY vapor drift, or flowers and shrubs nearby could get stunted. Just do it in calm conditions if you have flowers next to grass, and use large droplet size with low pressure to avoid vapors.
 
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nicksnothereman

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In the Mojave
Was wondering what kind of weed killers you all use. Here in west TX, we've gotten a decent amount of rain, so they are coming up like...well, weeds.
I've done the roundup **** before, but I need something both LEGAL and POWERFUL to rid my yard of the bastards. I know there are some kick-**** ones you need a license to get, just looking for something basic
Thanks in advance.

The sun does it.:lol:

Otherwise I pull it out, spraying kind of leaves the plant there so I guess it doesn't work that well. I do use spectracide or the home depot weed killer when I get it cheap enough and use it on the ends of my property where weeds tend to accumulate if I don't take care of them. We got rocks not lawn so I can pretty much pull/crush weeds with my shoes then move the rocks back over.:lol_hitti
 

rlitman

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Long Island
2-4-D is quite effective at weeds, while preserving grass. (of course test in a section first) It's been around forever, and the 100% pure undiluted stuff is cheap/gallon. If you buy a gallon of 100%, you'll only need about 1-2 ozs. per gallon of water. That will produce a mix on the strong side too.

Not sure where in TX you're located, but around here we can get it at the local CO-OP that sells chemicals for all the spraying that's being done right now.

My dad runs an agra-chem business, he gave me some, and told me that I would NOT need a license to buy some from the CO-OP at the next town over if I needed more. I don't know if that varies by state. Least you can do is ask.

With 2-4-D, just make sure your're spraying nozzle is set for larger droplet size, and use low pressure to avoid ANY vapor drift, or flowers and shrubs nearby could get stunted. Just do it in calm conditions if you have flowers next to grass, and use large droplet size with low pressure to avoid vapors.


Amine formulations have less vapor issues than ester formulations on hot days (both are fine in colder days), but 2,4D also spreads through the soil, potentially over a foot.
 
Joined
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Ellwood City PA
Here is a mixture that works very well, You will see results in about an hour.
1 Gallon white vineger
2 Cups epsom salt
1/4 Cup dawn dish soap, the original blue
I mix it in a small bucket to dissolve the salt and put it in a pump sprayer.
I usually spray the weeds right before or right after it rains.
 

DpSyChO

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Blue Ridge Mountains of Southern Virginia
Here is a mixture that works very well, You will see results in about an hour.
1 Gallon white vineger
2 Cups epsom salt
1/4 Cup dawn dish soap, the original blue
I mix it in a small bucket to dissolve the salt and put it in a pump sprayer.
I usually spray the weeds right before or right after it rains.


There are many "formula's" out there with the same three basic ingredients.
The one I was told a decade ago was:
2 cups vinegar, 1 cup salt in a one gallon sprayer and fill balance with tap water allow enough room to add 1/2 cup dawn last so it does not sud up as bad.
Any of the different combinations you find on the web for these ingredients, don't spray on anything galvanized.
It worked OK for me, a higher percentage vinegar probably would have worked better but I did not want to go too strong and prevent anything I wanted to grow from being able to down the road.
 
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theoldwizard1

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For lawns, anything with 2-4-D.

All natural (but will kill everything) straight vinegar, the stronger the better.
 

PT Doc

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This is from UBC botanical gardens forums:

http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=41632

vinegar is a great weed killer
For those who want a "green" solution to weeds that actually works I can confirm that white pickling vinegar (7% acetic acid) makes an amazing plant killer. Spray it on any leaf you want to kill on a hot sunny day and within 10 minutes it's starting to turn brown and shortly afterwards the leaves are completely dead (none took longer than overnight).

It works by stripping off the waxy coating on leaves that prevents them from dehydrating too quickly.

No need for expensive or potentially dangerous chemicals, just make sure it's at least 7% acetic acid (stronger would be better but not as available but "Pickling" vinegar is usually at least 7%) and put it in a cheap plastic spray bottle and you have a plant killer. It will kill almost any leaf you spray it on depending on how waxy they are some will be more resistant (that's why 20% would be even better) but it works great on dandelions, thistles, grass etc etc. For dandelions just spray the leaves and the center of the flower.

Dandelions and others with a long tap root will need a subsequent application because it won't kill the root, just all the leaves, but as long as the leaves are dead the root will die in pretty short order.

I'm going to hack a Swiffer WetJet mop so I can refill it with vinegar and use it's built in battery powered sprayer to do large areas conveniently (I have a lot of gravel trails in the back of our property that I want to keep vegetation free), the spray bottle gets tiresome after a while.

There are commercial formulations based on vinegar now and they contain surfactants to make the liquid spread more evenly on the leaf and not bead up, I'm going to experiment with that as well, maybe dish soap or citrus based organic cleaners.

Kinda makes you wonder why there are so many complex alternatives like Roundup when plain old vinegar works so well.
 

larry_g

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oregon
Kinda makes you wonder why there are so many complex alternatives like Roundup when plain old vinegar works so well.

Well back in the day Ma&Pa kettle would send the kids out with hoes to eradicate the weeds in the garden patch. As the kids move on and the farms got larger the farmers would hire a bus load of kids to hoe weeds and pick crops. The good people of the town outlawed kids working in the fields so migrant workers got the job. Now the farmers are working in fields of many of acres and mechanical cultivators came into their prime. As we moved into today's world we developed chemicals to replace cultivators, narrow row crops and chemicals to control what is not wanted in the field.

The city people saw that chemicals made the farmers job more efficient so they figured to use them in the city also. Sprayed their lawns and then use the extra time to tell the farmers how poorly they are doing.

Don't complain with your mouth full.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Tim Kennedy

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Oct 16, 2011
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smokey0810:
Guy I worked with is a farmer -- told him I had bought some roundup from Home Depot -- he said take it back & he'd give me better stuff. He was right -- he gave me a quart of 41% roundup he buys from up in the Amish country -- 1/4 cup mixed with a gallon of water -- extremely effective! Am definitely going to try the vinegar & see how it compares.
 

bullnerd

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Jersey
Larry g, I know all about that hahaha unfortunately that stuff can't be discussed on Gj. To the op, use something that isn't toxic.. I kno there are many solutions to your weed problem that don't involve nasty chemicles that will polite your land

Wasn't this just covered in another thread? Farmers use the same stuff on your food.
 

owenst7

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Oct 19, 2011
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Anchorage/Reno
Why use harsh chemical that cost so much when the Pickering vinegar or the vinegar/salt/soap works so well ans is so cheap?

The glyphosate concentrate I bought last night makes 15 gallons and was $15 for the bottle. How much was your pickling vinegar (which I tried, it doesn't kill sagebrush)?


Where are the great acetic seas where this stuff occurs naturally on Earth?
 
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Plains ranger

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Jun 4, 2014
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I work for a landscaping wholesaler. Big name one, there may be a location near you. Pm me and I'll take a look.

Couple questions though.
1. Is this in a turf area and your looking to get rid of dandelions and crab grass?
2. Or are you just looking to kill it all. That's what roundup does.

We have some selective herbicides that will kill specific weeds. We also carry a product called scythe that you mix in with stuff like roundup that makes the uptake of the herbicide faster. I've also had some guys tell me that just mixing in some dish washing soap will do the same thing.

Buy concentrates and a sprayer can and it will make life easier.
 

wrench409

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Over here....
Great info on weed killing.....

Now, *********** those damned junk trees that grow in between fences - chain link and wood privacy fences.....
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zoomzoomjeff

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We also carry a product called scythe that you mix in with stuff like roundup that makes the uptake of the herbicide faster. I've also had some guys tell me that just mixing in some dish washing soap will do the same thing.
Doesn't really increase the uptake, per se, but dish soap is a surfactant, which lowers the surface tension and helps the spray "stick" to the plant, instead of the natural tendency to bead off, thereby making the solution more effective.

People can split hairs on what the best surfactant or adjuvant to use, but for most DIY yard owners, dish soap works well. I use it anyway, and it's done okay. Next time I'm home, I might pick up some crop oil that's matched for the chemical, but extra soap works fine for me.
 

zoomzoomjeff

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Amine formulations have less vapor issues than ester formulations on hot days (both are fine in colder days), but 2,4D also spreads through the soil, potentially over a foot.
Good reminder on amine vs ester formulations. I have 2-4-D amine. Nonetheless my dad warned me about being a good neighbor, re: vapor. Did not know about soil spread. Will give the flower areas their own space.
 

jwith68

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To kill broadleaf weeds only, with no harm to grass: 2,4D amine, at about 1.5%.

To kill broadleaf weeds, multiflora rose, blackberries, thorny locust, most hardwood sprouts except the toughest ones, all with no harm to grass: 1% Grazon P+D, 1/4% Remedy Ultra, 1/4% - 1/2% non-ionic surfactant. Amazingly effective. Grazon contains picloram, and thus is restricted use, so you need a private applicator license to purchase. In Missouri, that takes watching a 2 hour safety video at your county ag extension office and filling out a one page form, cost is $0. Well worth it.

To kill hardwood sprouts such as oak, hickory, sassafras, etc. with no harm to grass: 1% Remedy Ultra, 1/4% - 1/2% non-ionic surfactant.

To kill everything green including grass: glyphosate (Roundup), as light a mix as 1.5% for short grasses & young weeds, up to 3% for multiflora rose & brush. 41% concentrate (from any farm supply) is far the better value. When you're spraying pasture and hay land, you generally want to keep your grass, so I rarely use glyphosate, except for keeping my driveway clean.
 

nmcqueen469

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Whitley County, IN
While we are on the topic, what kind of shelf life does 40% Glyphosphate have?

I have a jug of it that has seen some temp extremes, right around freezing and probably as high as 90*, and is probably 2 years old.

With it being a concentrate, I would think it would hold up to temps and age better than something that's already mixed, but I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts.
 

Allenw

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NW Oklahoma
Great info on weed killing.....

Now, *********** those damned junk trees that grow in between fences - chain link and wood privacy fences.....
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Straight roundup on the stump imeadiatly after cutting them off will kill most of them.
 

Todd.Brock

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Cincinnati
I have cleared some trees and honey suckle. I am down to the vegetation, ivy, and honey suckle shoots. I know I have to get all the stumps. As I cut to the stumps, I hit with round up. Anything that I can spray to clear all vegetation, turn the ground over with the tiller and plant grass sometime in the fall? Also, will glyphosphate affect mature trees?

7aae1e93cc7a2d1addc6021460b09589.jpg
13c751e139b8f0cd71a680e7c4ce2688.jpg
 

theoldwizard1

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I know I have to get all the stumps. As I cut to the stumps, I hit with round up. Anything that I can spray to clear all vegetation, turn the ground over with the tiller and plant grass sometime in the fall? Also, will glyphosphate affect mature trees?

Roundup IS glyphosate ! At least it is its main ingredient. Not sure what else they put in the "special" versions of Roundup.

My understanding is that glyphosate will kill all plants, but it enters through the leaves, so spraying it on stumps will not have much of an effect. Certain weeds will require more than one treatment with glyphosate. They will re-sprout in a couple of weeks, so just spray them again. It might take a couple of time.

Menards, Tractor Supply and many feed stores sell generic glyphosate. Much cheaper than Roundup brand.

If you are going to dig/grind the stumps this summer, don't worry about applying anything to them.
 
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