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Weed Killer....

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pete379

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Dec 4, 2009
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471
While we are on the topic, what kind of shelf life does 40% Glyphosphate have?

I have a jug of it that has seen some temp extremes, right around freezing and probably as high as 90*, and is probably 2 years old.

With it being a concentrate, I would think it would hold up to temps and age better than something that's already mixed, but I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts.

I buy the 2.5 gal jug of 41% , it lasts me about 2-3 years, doesn't seem to go "bad"
 

Anarius

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SE Michigan
Good advice here,

I tried the Home Depot weed & grass killer..."works in three hours" it claims. Might as well be water and fertilizer. Went through the whole 2.5 gallon container in 4 applications 1 day apart each (man, my poor wrist), and the weeds said "Please, sir...I'd like some more!". ONE leaf on a bit of crab grass turned brown.

I think I'll go find myself some vinegar.
 

LifeLongWNYer

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South of Rochester, NY
The chain which used to be called Lesco, and sold to schools, golf courses, municipalities, etc, has been bought out by John Deere Landscaping and still has good chemicals.

I use a mix of Speed Zone and liquid fertilizer called Green Zone to kill broadleafs and fertilize the lawn. I mix them together in the tank and add a dye so I can see where I've treated and where I've missed.

I use something called Prosecutor in the hedge rows to kill ground weeds and brush. That stuff will pretty much kills what ever it touches, but the mix must land on the leaves. If I hit the trunk of a tree, it doesn't do anything to that tree. Overspray on the ground is wasted and does no harm. I've missed weeds, the one that I hit died, but the one right next to it, which I missed, didn't. I used to use a Roundup substitute called Eraser, which worked well in fence lines and hedge rows, but I can't find it any more.

I want something that will kill the weeds/brush with one, or no more than two applications per year. Anything else takes too much time to be useful to me. Nothing seems to last from one year until the next.

Something happened last year and one of the biggest producers of Glyphosphate isn't selling is any more, the others have raised their prices accordingly. Anything with Glyphosphate in it is a lot more expensive than it was.




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Shootingblanks

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North Canton, Ohio
The chain which used to be called Lesco, and sold to schools, golf courses, municipalities, etc, has been bought out by John Deere Landscaping and still has good chemicals.

I use a mix of Speed Zone and liquid fertilizer called Green Zone to kill broadleafs and fertilize the lawn. I mix them together in the tank and add a dye so I can see where I've treated and where I've missed.

I use something called Prosecutor in the hedge rows to kill ground weeds and brush. That stuff will pretty much kills what ever it touches, but the mix must land on the leaves. If I hit the trunk of a tree, it doesn't do anything to that tree. Overspray on the ground is wasted and does no harm. I've missed weeds, the one that I hit died, but the one right next to it, which I missed, didn't. I used to use a Roundup substitute called Eraser, which worked well in fence lines and hedge rows, but I can't find it any more.

I want something that will kill the weeds/brush with one, or no more than two applications per year. Anything else takes too much time to be useful to me. Nothing seems to last from one year until the next.

Something happened last year and one of the biggest producers of Glyphosphate isn't selling is any more, the others have raised their prices accordingly. Anything with Glyphosphate in it is a lot more expensive than it was.




.

I have a John Deere Landscapes less than 10 minutes from me and purchased their professional grade Roundup. It contains upper 90%, like 97% or 98% Glyphospate and cost $15 for a small box that you mix 1.5oz packets to a gallon water. The premixed larger container was $80, which I had no use for that much. I used it on weeds that popped up or had leaves still present after I attempted to pull the root. I also purchased Snapsot as a preemergent for my beds prior to laying the mulch down. That Snapshot was pricey but is supposed to be one of the best preemergent for beds.
 

LifeLongWNYer

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You are right, Shooting, buying premix is expensive because you are buying the mixers water. My water is much less expensive.

I buy the larger quantities of concentrate and mix what I need in my tank sprayer. Sure it costs more in the the beginning, but in the long run, it is more cost effective. When I buy the chemicals, I usually pick up a couple jugs of each, and JD gives me a discount.

The stuff doesn't spoil, so I put the left overs on the paint shelf in the cellar and finish them off in following year.




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LifeLongWNYer

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So for you guys who use vinegar..... I have read the thread but don't see where anybody actually says this, so just WHAT will the vinegar mixes control? Is it weeds and brush only or does it kill grass too?




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LifeLongWNYer

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Okay, thanks. I might try it on the fencelines and hedge rows, but guess it won't be on my list of lawn chemicals.

Humm, wonder if the pump on my tank sprayer can handle vinegar? I always flush the pump, lines and nozzles when I finish, but the pump might not "like" the acid. I better call the mfgr.

Thanks!




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gayler

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Lakin Kansas
2-4-D is quite effective at weeds, while preserving grass. (of course test in a section first) It's been around forever, and the 100% pure undiluted stuff is cheap/gallon. If you buy a gallon of 100%, you'll only need about 1-2 ozs. per gallon of water. That will produce a mix on the strong side too.

Not sure where in TX you're located, but around here we can get it at the local CO-OP that sells chemicals for all the spraying that's being done right now.

My dad runs an agra-chem business, he gave me some, and told me that I would NOT need a license to buy some from the CO-OP at the next town over if I needed more. I don't know if that varies by state. Least you can do is ask.

With 2-4-D, just make sure your're spraying nozzle is set for larger droplet size, and use low pressure to avoid ANY vapor drift, or flowers and shrubs nearby could get stunted. Just do it in calm conditions if you have flowers next to grass, and use large droplet size with low pressure to avoid vapors.

+1!!
 

Casey69

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Earth
i use "speedzone" sold at ace hardware. takes care of clover too, which weed-b-gone seems to have a problem with. otherwise, weed-b-gone takes care of most things.
 

geojag

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Little Rock, AR
I use High Yield Killz-all. Cheaper than roundup and works great. Kills poison ivy and the grass along the fences, haven't tried it on much else.
 

jrsavoie

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North east Illinois
Can you mix Trimec and vinegar?

I know you can mix Roundup and Vinegar.
We have a lot of vinegar.

I haven't seen anything about mixing trimec. I'm thinking it may be because vinegar kills everything - like Roundup

Killing everything is fine where we are spraying. But we have Trimec here. If we can mix Vinegar with Trimec we can make a bigger batch - we are low on water.
 

Ilikeike

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Can you mix Trimec and vinegar?

I know you can mix Roundup and Vinegar.
We have a lot of vinegar.

I haven't seen anything about mixing trimec. I'm thinking it may be because vinegar kills everything - like Roundup

Killing everything is fine where we are spraying. But we have Trimec here. If we can mix Vinegar with Trimec we can make a bigger batch - we are low on water.
Tremec is mainly 2,4-D You can mix it with other herbicides as needed.

We use PACIFIC PREMIUM DRA to mitigate drift.
"reduces physical drift as well as strengthens pesticide performance potential by improving deposition and coverage on targeted leaf surfaces."

The old school farmers just add a bit of Diesel.
 

rlitman

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How long does it last ? Till the next sprouting of seeds, season or ground sterilizer ?
It lasts about as long as fire. Usually till the next time it rains. In the meantime, vinegar attracts scavenging insects that feed on rotting fruit (wasps). Using acid as a pesticide is just plain dumb.
 

Drkuhar

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Oct 31, 2016
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Girard, IL
I buy the 2.5 gal jug of 41% , it lasts me about 2-3 years, doesn't seem to go "bad"
I keep mine in an unheated shed but out of the sun and over the winter the jug (2.5 gallon gly4 from rural king) always gets clumps that clog the filter. do you keep yours in a heated shed or shop over the winter
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
Was wondering what kind of weed killers you all use. Here in west TX, we've gotten a decent amount of rain, so they are coming up like...well, weeds.
I've done the roundup **** before, but I need something both LEGAL and POWERFUL to rid my yard of the bastards. I know there are some kick-**** ones you need a license to get, just looking for something basic
Thanks in advance.

Round up is Glyphosate. You can buy it in bulk concentrate off-brand at tractor supply. It works great. Course, they say it causes cancer...
 
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four.cycle

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^ "Round Up" is a proprietary mix which contains glyphosate as the primary active ingredient. There are other compounds in it as well.
Straight glyphosate concentrate can be procured at garden stores in a generic form since Montsano's patent on it expired in 2000.

As to whether it is a carcinogen:
Only extensive reading on many websites will provide enough information to come to any sort of informed conclusion in that regard.

I prefer to just use 2-4D if possible. It just kills broadleaf species.
Knocking out everything (by using a broad-spectrum herbicide like glyphosate) will leave you with bare ground, which is just inviting more weeds.

YMMV
 

bigdav160

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FYI from Wiki:

Cancer​


The consensus among national pesticide regulatory agencies and scientific organizations is that labeled uses of glyphosate have demonstrated no evidence of human carcinogenicity.[104] The Joint FAO/WHO Meeting on Pesticide Residues (JMPR),[105] the European Commission, the Canadian Pest Management Regulatory Agency, the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority[106] and the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment[107] have concluded that there is no evidence that glyphosate poses a carcinogenic or genotoxic risk to humans. The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has classified glyphosate as "not likely to be carcinogenic to humans."[108][109] One international scientific organization, the International Agency for Research on Cancer, classified glyphosate in Group 2A, "probably carcinogenic to humans" in 2015.[13][11]

As of 2020, the evidence for long-term exposure to glyphosate increasing the risk of human cancer remains inconclusive.[110] There is weak evidence human cancer risk might increase as a result of occupational exposure to large amounts of glyphosate, such as in agricultural work, but no good evidence of such a risk from home use, such as in domestic gardening.[111][112] A meta-analysis published in 2019 looked at whether there was an association between an increased risk of non-Hodgkin lymphoma in humans and high cumulative exposures to glyphosate-based herbicides. The research found a "compelling link" between exposures to glyphosate-based herbicides and increased risk for non-Hodgkin lymphoma.[113] A 2021 meta-analysis of glyphosate exposure and non-Hodgkin lymphoma cautioned that such results can be biased by "assumptions made about both exposure level and latency period."[114]
 
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Skooterj

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Indiana
Okay, but how do I kill tall fescue (K-31) in my KBG/Rye/Fine fescue yard? Anyone have a bottle of Corsair laying around they want to sell me?

If I kill it with vinegar, how long before I can replant?
 

SlappyWhite

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Upper Canada
Okay, but how do I kill tall fescue (K-31) in my KBG/Rye/Fine fescue yard? Anyone have a bottle of Corsair laying around they want to sell me?

If I kill it with vinegar, how long before I can replant?
Vinegar does not kill the roots like many of the other chemicals it kills what it touches. BUT if you hit it a couple of times right way as it is coming back the roots will be depleted of energy and they will die. Of course you could do the same with a weed wacker cutting it all down at the soil.... A couple of days after the last application should be fine assuming the soil had a fairly neutral or slightly basic PH prior to application.

In the stores.... regular white is 5%, pickling is 7%, but if you head to the cleaning section they sell 10% Acetic Acid vinegar--higher is better/faster. Higher yet if you can get industrial or horticultural...
 

four.cycle

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Best thing to do - seriously - is contact somebody at your local COUNTY weed control board. Every county has one.
Every STATE has a State Weed Control Board as well.
They are able to make suggestions and recommendations regarding acceptable and effective herbicides. They want you to WIN.
Take advantage of the service you're paying for with your tax dollars.

In FARM COUNTRY (like Indiana) they generally do not hire incompetents to staff County weed control boards - the local economy depends to a degree on their expertise.

We plant fescues and rye grasses here for lawns.

YMMV
 

Robinson1

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Kentucky
I've done the roundup **** before, but I need something both LEGAL and POWERFUL to rid my yard of the bastards. I know there are some kick-**** ones you need a license to get, just looking for something basic
Thanks in advance.

The active ingredient is Round Up is glysophate. Glysophate is a fantastic and highly effective weed killer. Problem is most glysophate based weed killers at the box stores are only 10% or less glysophate. Go to Tractor Supply/Rural King/Southern States and tell them you want some 47% glysophate. You can buy it without a license and everything will be dead in a few days.

If you dont want to kill everything go to the same type stores and tell them you want 2-4-D
 

four.cycle

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One more note:

There's so much ******** bandied about on the internet concerning glyphosate that I really make an effort to NOT comment about it.

What I CAN say is:
(1) The laboratory that initially determined that glyphosate was a carcinogen also found HOT WATER to be a carcinogen.
(2) The man who won the bazillion-dollar judgment award was applying "Round Up" wearing shorts, a t-shirt, and open-toed shoes or sandals. He admitted under oath that he had completely drenched himself with "Round Up" and did NOT immediately wash it off.



I've already been there. Don't care to return.
I still prefer to use 2-4D myself, but that has nothin' to do with cancer.

Besides, how many times can one guy get cancer in one lifetime? I should worry?
 
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SlappyWhite

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One more note:

There's so much ******** bandied about on the internet concerning glyphosate that I really make an effort to NOT comment about it.

What I CAN say is:
(1) The laboratory that initially determined that glyphosate was a carcinogen also found HOT WATER to be a carcinogen.
(2) The man who won the bazillion-dollar judgment award was applying "Round Up" wearing shorts, a t-shirt, and open-toed shoes or sandals. He admitted under oath that he had completely drenched himself with "Round Up" and did NOT immediately wash it off.

Here is a discussion thread about glyphosate with all kinds of citations and links if you want to go down that rabbit hole.
I've already been there. Don't care to return.
I still prefer to use 2-4D myself, but that has nothin' to do with cancer.

Besides, how many times can one guy get cancer in one lifetime? I should worry?
Everything in moderation....

Sadly, here where I live Glyphosate and 2,4-D are both banned but you can buy Glyphosate (locked in a cage at the stores) for non-cosmetic uses (they are supposed to ask but rarely do). IMO the problem here is people were carpet bombing with the stuff so now we get none.
 

four.cycle

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^ Not always necessary to do that. Some species may require repeat applications to get them under control, but that's more a mechanical issue than biology.
Plant with slick leaves like like English Ivy (Hedera helix) pose challenges because the solution slides right off the leaf, especially if the leaves are wet from rain or morning dew.
Spray late afternoon if possible.
Some applications it may be more advantageous to use an OIL for the vehicle instead of water.

Again, best thing to do is contact a County Weed Control Board.

My conversations with the lady who ran the Clallam County Weed Control Board, and the lady who was in charge of maintenance for Clallam County Parks, as well as my favorite botanist at Olympic National Park, ALL recommended products other than glyphosate or 2-4D. Those recommendations were based on their results of efficacy.
These people went to college to learn all this jazz. They're smarter than us on this one, guys. Listen to them.

A few of the products they suggested when that conversation took place in May of 2019. Things may have changed. I know they discontinued using one product because they discovered it caused blindness. Be careful.
As I recall, these are all broad-spectrum products. (They kill everything.)
Garlon label.jpgMilestone label.jpgPolaris label.jpg

^ These were the products being used by the National Park Service as of May 2019. Again, that may have changed.
The species they were targeting were primarily Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense), Himalaya Blackberry (Rubus discolor), and Cut-Leaf (or "Evergreen") Blackberry (R. laciniatus)

If my memory serves me correctly , toward the end of that discussion thread I cited above (post #66) there were some recommendations from other members of that website.

I have been on a decades-long one-man crusade against non-indigenous species of flora in our National Parks.
I didn't start researching this stuff last week. ;)
 
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theoldwizard1

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I prefer to just use 2-4D if possible. It just kills broadleaf species.
Knocking out everything (by using a broad-spectrum herbicide like glyphosate) will leave you with bare ground, which is just inviting more weeds.
I agree with both statements !

2-4D works well on broad leaf weeds but there are other things, like crabgrass and sedge, that it will not touch. There are legal chemicals that will treat these.
 

jrsavoie

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One more note:

There's so much ******** bandied about on the internet concerning glyphosate that I really make an effort to NOT comment about it.

What I CAN say is:
(1) The laboratory that initially determined that glyphosate was a carcinogen also found HOT WATER to be a carcinogen.
(2) The man who won the bazillion-dollar judgment award was applying "Round Up" wearing shorts, a t-shirt, and open-toed shoes or sandals. He admitted under oath that he had completely drenched himself with "Round Up" and did NOT immediately wash it off.



I've already been there. Don't care to return.
I still prefer to use 2-4D myself, but that has nothin' to do with cancer.

Besides, how many times can one guy get cancer in one lifetime? I should worry?
Some of the cancer meds cause other cancers
 

sgf13

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I tried the vinegar/dish soap/salt mix wth pretty poor results. I think I used regular white vinegar. Is the pickling vinegar the key? I have a lot of electric fence line. It would be great to find something more natural that truly worked. Also, will it work when the grass and weeds are tall?
 

Firebrick43

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Roundup IS glyphosate ! At least it is its main ingredient. Not sure what else they put in the "special" versions of Roundup.

My understanding is that glyphosate will kill all plants, but it enters through the leaves, so spraying it on stumps will not have much of an effect. Certain weeds will require more than one treatment with glyphosate. They will re-sprout in a couple of weeks, so just spray them again. It might take a couple of time.

Menards, Tractor Supply and many feed stores sell generic glyphosate. Much cheaper than Roundup brand.

If you are going to dig/grind the stumps this summer, don't worry about applying anything to them.
It enters just fine through the stump. Every farmer that i know paints the stumps with roundup and diesel fuel when clearing fence rows to keep them from suckering.

However, why is everyone talking about roundup? It kills everything.

He ask for something to kill weeds in the yard. That is 2.4.D. Or somethings like preen one if you want to spread it dry. Its basically 2-4-d in dry form.
 

cvairwerks

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I tried the vinegar/dish soap/salt mix wth pretty poor results. I think I used regular white vinegar. Is the pickling vinegar the key? I have a lot of electric fence line. It would be great to find something more natural that truly worked. Also, will it work when the grass and weeds are tall?


Get some 30% or higher vinegar and some of the colorant so you can see where it’s been sprayed. I don’t use the salt as I do not wish to make the sprayed areas sterile for months to years afterwards.

Be advised that with that high of a concentration, a respirator is needed as well as spraying from the down wind end, moving to the upwind end of the area to be covered.
 
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