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Welding table ideas.

gasaxeman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
196
Location
Hodag Country. Rhinelander,WI
I am getting ready to build my next welding table.
I have one now that is 1/4" plate I bought 20yrs ago and has served me well.
It is 4'x10' and I love having that much flat space to work on.
I am interested in anyone's thoughts about table thickness.Min. Thickness?I am leaning towards 3/4" because of cost.
I will most likely have to purchase the plate new as I have had no luck finding any at an scrapers around the far west chicago area.
Open to suggestions for any source. Have a large flatbed and a forklift at home for unloading.
I will be going with 4x8 or 4x10 as I really like the flat real estate for projects.
Table will have two Wilton vices on it and may elect to do some sort of moveable center hold down clamps.
Thinking of using 4" square,.120 wall legs as I hope to have access to these pieces.
To keep flat I am thinking of bolting top to frame structure with large recessed cap screws.
It will be fully wired for power with wiremold 2100 series 12" oc 20a receptacles.It will be moved with a smaller 4000# electric/hydraulic die lifting table that I have.
The lift table will store under the new table as it is smaller than my intended new table.
Not worried about weight .
Any thoughts appreciated.


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1/2 Cup

Member Emeritus
Joined
Apr 28, 2012
Messages
19,283
Location
Shepparton. Victoria. Australia
That will be one serious table, what sort of welding projects do you do?
The table I have recently built has a 5/16 top and that's heavy enough for me.
Providing you have enough support in the frame you my get away with say 1/2".
I am looking forward to see how you go with the build.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:

MichaelUser

Active member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
40
Location
Fullerton, Ca
I built my table using 2 x 2 sq .120 wall tubing. It's 3' x 5' with a 4" overhang for clamping. The top is 3/4 steel and weighs 400lbs. I had drill and tap a hole in the middle to lift it with a cherry picker (all by myself) to get it up there. I built the height (off the floor) to match my benches height. Incase you need to support long bulky material. I also put wheels on it because it needs to be mobile.

Thanks
 

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dr_clyde

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Joined
Jan 7, 2009
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6,425
Location
Holland, MI
Sounds kinda like my table.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226411

Table features depend largely on what you want to do with it. If I could do mine again, I'd have got 1.5" thick, made the entire thing a weldment, not bolting on the top, stress relieved it and blanchard ground the top. I'd have made all the tubing at least 1/4" wall as well.

If you want a general fab table, don't go any thinner than 1/2". I really like StrongHand fixture stuff, so I made mine with a grid of 5/8" holes to utilize that stuff.

Realistically, just about any flat metal surface will work as a welding table. You will just have a harder time doing fast and efficient layout with a potato chip table. My work can be very precise and demanding, so I built a table that would service that need. Tight tolerance work requires a lot more attention to detail, and its a huge help not having to fight my tools as well as the job.

What kind of stuff are you building? Most guys can do just fine with a nice piece of hot rolled plate on a nice square tube frame. No need to get fancy just for fancy's sake.
 
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gasaxeman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
196
Location
Hodag Country. Rhinelander,WI
Thanks for the ideas.
I have found a guy around here who has a piece of plate 48" x 88"x1-1/8"
Gonna go see if it is new, flat and worth getting.
Overkill yeah.. But the price might be right.
My main builds are steel furniture, large steel and concrete tables, and what ever else I come up with.
I want something as flat and level as possible because everything else goes easier as I build stuff that way.
My current table has some waves and it is a real pain trying to keep things square.
 
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